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Hangar 9 Corsair

Old 11-29-2005, 03:09 PM
  #1  
CorsairJock
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Default Hangar 9 Corsair

I'm surprised that there are no other H-9 Corsair conversion threads thus far, so I'll start this one. I welcome any and all others to share info on their H-9 Corsair conversions: please list any and all info and pics in this thread, as well as likes and dislikes of this aircraft, your power setup, etc.

This is my Hangar 9 Corsair, powered by the ever popular AXI 4130/16, swinging DynaTrust 14 x 8 prop. It first flew in April, 2005, and now has over 100 flights on it (as of Nov, 2005).

I'll start out with info on my airframe, as it obviously does not look like a Hanger 9 Corsair:

All up weight is 8 lbs, 6 oz (134 oz., or 3.8 kg). This includes the 6S, 4400 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.

The airframe was completely re-finished: all original covering was re-moved. After performing numerous mods to it, the framed up areas (outer wings, stab, rudder) were covered with CoverRite flat gray. The remaining, balsa covered areas were covered with 1/2 oz/ yd fiberglass cloth, with hi-stress areas getting multiple layers.

The cowling is a modified Top Flite Corsair cowl. It is more scale accurate, sturdier, AND has less frontal area (lower drag), but is does weigh more than the Hanger 9 version (by several oz).

The canopy is a Top Flite Corsair canopy, which also is more scale accurate but heavier than the Hanger 9 one.

The fin and rudder have been strengthened, as it has been my experience that Corsairs are prone to tip-overs, and subsequently the fin and rudder are more easily damaged than most other warbirds.

As mentioned earlier, there are numerous mods/ scale details added. Biggest one is a completely new firewall, with scale cowl flap area. Other mods include simulated scale exhaust stacks, machine gun ports, radio mast, & tailhook opening.

The completed airframe was painted using an old Miller hobby airbrush system, using custom mixed Behr exterior semi-gloss paints. The 1943 style national markings are from old Top Flite 'red box' Corsair decal sheets. The Jolly Rogers emblem made by me with Testors (water transfer) Decal Kit and my HP printer.The scheme is my best attempt at duplicating the F4U-1A flown by Navy ace Lt Streig, of VF-17/ Jolly Rogers Squadron fame.

These pictures were taken while I was visiting the Howell, MI R/C club field. My thanks go to the photographer for taking and e-mailing to me these VERY nice pictures.
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Last edited by CorsairJock; 07-19-2008 at 09:37 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 11-29-2005, 04:18 PM
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Matt Kirsch
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Impressive!

There have been a few conversions of this particular plane, most notably in my mind is one Greg Covey did about two years ago with the same AXi motor. No offense to Greg, but yours is much better looking I believe there was a conversion of this plane at SEFF this past spring with Eflite's new "60" outrunner motor, which is very similar to the AXi in specifications.

That the plane's been out for a couple of years now is probably why there isn't a whole lot of "buzz" surrounding it or any electric conversions thereof. Myself, I'm running the AXi setup in a H9 P-40, which is similar in size, weight, and flying style to the Corsair (i.e. it's a heavy-metal warbird, not a 3D foamie). I'm running a 6S BalanceProHD and 15x8 Graupner billy club.

Neither of us is taking advantage of the power these motors can handle. We're babying them, but then again, do you want blistering speed or a nice scale flight?
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Old 11-29-2005, 05:24 PM
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Thanks, Matt.

I don't really think of it as 'babying' this motor. Altho it is certainly capable of delivering a lot more power, I aim for maximum efficiency. And, according to at least 2 sources, maximum efficiency occurs when the motor is drawing about 24 amps when supplied with 6S Li-Poly battery source. My goal is to set it up so that maximum static draw is about 125% of most efficient draw, so that it will likely be at the most efficient draw when the aircraft is airborne (when current draw is less).

I have noticed that a lot of people are using 15" props with this motor (AXI 4130/16), and pulling well over 30 amps static. I have found that the 14" props provide plenty of power for this aircraft, while keeping the load to under 30 amps. This provides me with over 12 minutes of flight time (per charge), and has all the speed and performance that I need for scale flight. Takeoffs and climbouts are with authority, but are by no means skyrocket like.

This has become a VERY popular motor for aircraft this size, and all of the Hangar 9 Warbird ARFs in particular. If you really want the skyrocket performance, it can be there with this motor. I chose it long before I realized how popular it was, and am glad I did. It even has a nice, sorta scale look where it pokes thru the dummy radial. The motor and speed controller can be had for about the same price as a 4 stroke engine for this aircraft.

This pic was taken in the spring (2005) by my wife. A lot of the details show up in this one, including the above mentioned AXI motor protruding from the dummy radial (motor was painted to match).
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Old 11-30-2005, 07:18 AM
  #4  
Geoff_Gino
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Currently flying a Hanger9 F4U Corsair

Specs of the plane:
Hanger9 60" F4U Corsair
Standard JR 539 servo's
JR700 Slimline receiver
Hitec retract servo (95 oz)
JR 2610 Tx
TopFlight cockpit kit
Graupner 15x8 3 blade prop (being spun at 6980 rpm)
Axi 4130/16 brushless motor
Jeti 77 ESC
UBEC
2 3S Kokam 3,2 Amp cells in series
All Up Weight 4 Kg (8,18 lbs)

Full throttle draws 50 amp and I am getting 10 minutes flying.

Geoff
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Old 11-30-2005, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Geoff_Gino View Post
TopFlight cockpit kit
Graupner 15x8 3 blade prop (being spun at 6980 rpm)
Full throttle draws 50 amp and I am getting 10 minutes flying.
Geoff
Got Pics?
Sure would like to see how well that big 3 bladed prop looks, AND that cockpit kit.

I considered using a Master Airscrew 3 blade 14 x 7 on mine, and still consider it from time to time. I know it would work, just that efficiency would drop a little. I have tested it, and found current draw to be 31 amps: still in a very reasonable range.

I have used a variety of 2 blade 14" props on mine, including a wide blade Master Airscrew 14 x 6, Master Airscrew Scmitar (dark gray 'Antique')14 x 7, and now the DynaThrust 14 x 8. All have worked well, the DynaTrust seems to be giving me the best top speed. Current draw is 27.5 amps static with it, while all the others were in the low 20s. I think I like the DynaTrust most because it looks more scale than the others. But the 3 blade would certainly look better yet.

For batteries, I am using a pair of 3S Li-Poly packs (connected in series for 6S) rated 4400 mAh, 8C. I got them thru eBay for about $80 each, for a total of $160. They weigh 11.5 oz each, and so far have worked out very well.

Picture was taken late Sat evening at the 2005 (July) Mid America Electric Fly-In held at Northville, MI
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Old 11-30-2005, 03:43 PM
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Geoff_Gino
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Only pics I have at the moment don't really show the prop. Had a mishap recently and I am still waiting for a prop from the LHS, who assures me it's "On order"

Geoff
P.S. 2nd picture should jog your memory.

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Old 03-06-2006, 07:06 PM
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vax6335
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Seeing this airplane makes me want to convert my Top Flite Corsair to e-power. All I have built so far is the fuse. Do you think the Top Flite kit can be lightnened up enough to convert it or should I just buy a Hanger 9 Corsair?
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by vax6335 View Post
Seeing this airplane makes me want to convert my Top Flite Corsair to e-power. All I have built so far is the fuse. Do you think the Top Flite kit can be lightnened up enough to convert it or should I just buy a Hanger 9 Corsair?
The main issue would be weight. BUT, if you have followed the 'Real Radial Sound' thread at all, you may be aware that their Hanger 9 Corsair now weighs over 10 lbs, has same AXI motor (4130/16), and still manages to LEAP into the air. The Top Flites typically come in around 9 lbs (sometimes less) with retracts & flaps (IF covered with iron on covering), so they are only marginally heavier than the Hangar 9 ones. That said, it should be NO PROBLEM.

Whether you convert it to electric or not, I believe it would benefit you (and your model) if you read thru this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_964836/tm.htm

If you decide to convert it, I suggest (and hope) that you begin a new thread and post your progress here at WattFlyer.

Last edited by CorsairJock; 07-19-2008 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:06 AM
  #9  
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Bump. OK, I know we're not supposed to do it, but this thread is really buried, and I thoughtit might be of interest to a new generation of readers.

BTW, the Corsair is still going strong after 3 full flying seasons. Still using original retracts, but I keep wanting to upgrade.
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Old 11-09-2007, 04:30 PM
  #10  
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Hey CJ, I'm keeping tabs. Though mine isn't the H9.
I'm going with the N/P 120 Corsair, but I'll be honest I followed your other threads on the Corsair, and am going to use a lot of what you and the others did on both the H9 and TF versions.

On mine I'm planning on hiding the tail controls inside the tail, the N/P is a fiberglass fuselage, so lots of room to work back there. Ditto installing the retract tail wheel.

Still scratching my head on the flap set up, may go with rods like Al did on his Hawk, or maybe even try and figure out the cable set up it came with.
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Old 11-15-2007, 11:34 PM
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Mark Wood
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CorsairJock:

Mebbe bumping is a nono but I'm glad you did it. I'm in the process of a H9 Corsair conversion as we speak. Got the wing glued together and I'm just about to install the battery tray and servo tray. I'm building a fresh servo tray since I'm going to mount the rudder and elevator servos where the throttle servo goes. Having them in the rear per the instructions would yield a tailheavy model (I think) and I want to avoid that as much as possible. Linkage will be via sturdy and stiff but light carbon fiber tubing. I don't really plan on any large scale mods. I just want a larger Corsair to fly.
The power system is centered around a NeuMotors 1910/2y ORK and 6s NeuEnergy 4900s generating up to 1500 watts if I want it. A Castle Creations Phoenix 80HV will control power to either a Master Airscrew 13x8 three-blade or an APC-E 14x8.5 two blade depending on how and where I'm flying. Simple flaperons mixed from the Futaba 9C will keep things simple but slow it down for those shorter runways. This is my first conversion but I live next to a lifelong modeler (Steve Belknap of Diversity Model Aircraft and distributor for NeuMotors) so that should help. Seeing the ones you guys have built is a bit humbling (not easy for me to say) but so far I'm having fun and the F4U has been a love of mine since Baa Baa Black Sheep, ya know?

mw
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Old 11-16-2007, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Wood View Post
CorsairJock:
............. I'm building a fresh servo tray since I'm going to mount the rudder and elevator servos where the throttle servo goes. Having them in the rear per the instructions would yield a tailheavy model (I think) and I want to avoid that as much as possible.

................Simple flaperons mixed from the Futaba 9C will keep things simple but slow it down for those shorter runways.
mw
These do not tend to be tail heavy, even with the servos in the tail. But to be safe: I installed lighter servos in the tail of mine. Having a battery pack to move around sure leaves a lot of 'room for error'. I have come to appreciate the more positive response and not having to always re-trim, that comes with having servos close to the surfaces that they are moving.

Flaperons is Definately a bad idea on a plane such as this. Flaperons only work well with full span ailerons. If they are not full span (such as onthis Corsair): they could easily induce tip stalls, which of course leads to crash landings.

Modified or not: it's good to hear that others are electrifying their H9 Corsairs. It's a great flyer, and you'll enjoy it.
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Old 11-16-2007, 03:41 AM
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How heavy is your motor, Jock? The battery I can look up. The Neu is pretty light at 10 ounces.

mw
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Old 11-16-2007, 11:26 AM
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I don't remember, it's been 3 years since I weighed it. I DO remeber that it was lighter than any fuel powered engine which would be appropriate for this plane, I'm guessing maybe 14 oz or so?

The point Iwas tryingto make tho: the motor power battery pack can be located as far ahead as you want, into the fuel tank area if needed. This allows PLENTY of room to compensate for a tail heavy plane, if it ends up so.

Also, just as you don't want it tail heavy: you really don't want it nose heavy either (re-read 1st post). Biggest problem with even SLIGHTLY nose heavy Corsairs: they tend to tip over/ nose over on landings WAY too easily. When that happens: the fin and/ or rudder WILL break. In fact, I highly recommend to ANYONE building ANY Corsair: STENGTHEN the FIN and RUDDER if at all possible. It may add a few grams, maybe up to 10, but it is well worth it.
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Old 11-16-2007, 11:29 AM
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According to this VERY useful site:
http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp
my AXI 4130/16 weighs "11.28" oz
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Old 11-16-2007, 02:59 PM
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I'll be using HS-475HBs for servos all around. Still don't see a tailheavy issue? If not, I'll just build per plans and quit worryiing about it.

mw
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Old 11-17-2007, 01:29 AM
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I keep meaning to do it, but I just haven't found the time to memorize the specs on every servo made. Therfor: I have no idea how heavy (or light) your servos are.
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Old 11-17-2007, 01:39 AM
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CorsairJock,
I haven't done anything with my Top Flite Corsair, but I've been reading your big thread on RCU about making it more scale. That's a great thread, I'm definitely going to use lots of those tricks and tips from there. Thanks!
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Old 11-17-2007, 08:05 AM
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My bad. They're 40 grams. (1.41 oz.)

I now remember looking through your mods thread when I first got my H9 kit.
Darned impressive work, amigo!

mw
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Old 11-17-2007, 11:24 AM
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1.4 oz is about the same as the Futaba S-3004s that I like to use: both relatively light for a standard servo, so they are good choices.

Thanks guys, good to hear that that thread (Top Flite Corsair Mods) is getting some use/ is useful to some. I think the most important thing in that thread is the rudder mods, which not only make it look better but also strengthen it.
And with the H9 Corsair: the fin could also use some strengthening. I have found that a solid sheet balsa fin weighs about the same as the built up one (must be all the glue), but is a LOT stronger.

Last edited by CorsairJock; 11-17-2007 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 11-23-2007, 10:26 AM
  #21  
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Default Another H9 Corsair converted

Hello, I have converted a Hangar9 Corsair (as well as a P47 and Camel) to electric power. I use Dualsky electrics in all my planes. The F4U and the P47 both have the older Dualsky PR.40 motors with the Camel uses the newer 4250. Props are APC 15x8E on the F4U and P47 while I use a 14x7E on the Camel.

Batteries are also Dualsky, 4000Mah 5S1P packs and give about 10-12 of flight. I use 4S1P 3700Mah packs in the camel for about 10 minutes of flying.

I found a 13x8E prop to be ineffective with the wide mouth on the Corsair and P47. I want to try out the 14x8E on these to see if it will give me the same flying speed at the same RPM with reduced current draw.

For reduced weight, and seeing that I am more interested in flying scale than ripping up the sky, I use JR331 servos (rated at 3.1Kg) and they seem to do the job just fine on these 60 sized warbirds.

With the lighter Corsair (and the others) I find landings are quite easy and slow. Just after I put a seperate pack in for the RX and servos (and removed the red wire on the BEC) I had a ESC lead come loose. Just glided her in and belly landed on the grass next to the paved runway and all was fine.
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Old 11-23-2007, 10:28 AM
  #22  
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Default Cockpit details for H9 Corsair

BTW Geoff, where did you get the scale cockpit?
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Old 02-17-2008, 12:53 PM
  #23  
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Default corsair drawings

for all the Corsair builders and modification of H( fans here is a great link
http://www.f4ucorsair.com/tdata/blueprints.html

alistair
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Old 02-17-2008, 03:09 PM
  #24  
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Default battery switch/connection?

Hi can some one please suggest how you connect/disconnect the main battery at the flight lline with out removing the wing?
I am converting a ex gas H9 Corsair using A123 battery and Scorpion 4020-16 brushless motor,with hyperion 85hv esc and 3 blade master prop i will be adding engine sound as well.
Here in England the British Model Flying Association clubs require this and indeed their post flight exam routines call for this action,

"(h) Remove model and equipment from the take-off/landing area.
The candidate should NOT take their transmitter with them when retrieving their model and it should be left with a competent person. If no one else is available to hold it then you should offer. When the model has been retrieved and returned to the pits area the transmitter
should be returned to the pilot.
Remember that electric models must be assumed to be ‘live’ until the flight battery has been disconnected and the handling of the aircraft by the candidate must reflect this during retrieval and in the pits area."
Regards
Adwb


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Old 02-17-2008, 08:33 PM
  #25  
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Default Switch on speed controller

Its quite easy if you have a switch on the ESC. I have a switch between my RX and Servo pack as well as a switch on the ESC. From the outside of the plane I can de-activate the motor as well as the radio gear. It's much easier than having to open the wing.

I also have a Hyperion Ki-84 and and put a Deans connector in-line on the red wire on the ESC. The connector sits in the airscoop and I just plug another connecter with a loop to make the circuit on the ESC / battery, this also works well.

If you are not sure what I mean I can try and find the original link where I saw the idea.
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