Super KAOS Build - Electric - Page 3 - WattFlyer RC Electric Flight Forums - Discuss radio control eflight

Scratch and Kit Built Aircraft Discuss and share your scratch built or kit built aircraft as well as building techniques, methods, mediums and resources.

Super KAOS Build - Electric

Old 05-30-2013, 02:57 PM
  #51  
road king 97
old hat
 
road king 97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: joliet il
Posts: 3,105
Default

Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
So far I have sanded the wing with 220. I have tried to fill the dimples and cracks. Right now there are no edges other than under where the fiberglass will be on the wing joint, and those are not bad at all.
My plan is to do the final sanding tomorrow and put the FG on the wing joint.
For glassing the wing joint on a plane this size i use a light amount of just 30 minute epoxy on the wing first and the scrape most of it off with a credit card .I then lay the fiberglass cloth in it and hold it still and scrape it again with the card of old brush so its set into the epoxy. I then mix up some more epoxy to fill the weave this time i put the epoxy on and hit it with a heat gun a little and the epoxy will get real watery and this time you dab it fast with paper towels or with a old paint brush to get it all in the weave and again scrape the excess off with a credit card and its done. The heat will speed up the drying time on the epoxy so you have to work fast. If you use finish fiber glass resin resin its the same way but use a brush to put the glass cloth on dabbing the resin into the glass cloth and again credit card to scrape off the excess resin.I wear doctors gloves through all of this plus bad cloths and have paper Towels, brushes all ready plus a garabge can to thro the messy paper towels away fast. Sand when done down to the glass cloth to a smooth finish. joe
road king 97 is offline  
Old 05-30-2013, 04:16 PM
  #52  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
For glassing ... joe
Joe,
Thanks for the suggestion, but someone else suggested something that sounded fantastic. Here is what I did.
I over cut the cloth by about 3/4 inches on all sides. I put a piece of wax paper down on my foam cutting board and spread some epoxy on the wax paper. I put the cloth down on the epoxy and put more epoxy on top of the cloth. I then put another piece of wax paper on top and squeegeed the cloth between the sheets.

I put a thin layer of epoxy on the balsa in the joint area.

I then cut through the wax paper / cloth sandwich to get the correct size. This results in no frayed edges on the cloth. Strip off the top wax paper sheet, take the cloth / bottom wax paper to the wing and position appropriately. Smooth the wax paper / cloth on the wing and then remove the wax paper.

Seems to work great
paxskipper is offline  
Old 05-30-2013, 06:28 PM
  #53  
fhhuber
Super Contributor
 
fhhuber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 4,786
Default

You can also lightly spray the fiberglass cloth with 3m 77 and stick it to old Monokote backing plastic. (or plastic wrap)

This lets you cut the cloth to shape needed without all the stringy frayed edges It peels from the backing easily.

Advantage over applying epoxy to the cloth sandwiched between 2 layers of wax paper is... you can do this with no worry about time.
fhhuber is offline  
Old 05-30-2013, 06:33 PM
  #54  
road king 97
old hat
 
road king 97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: joliet il
Posts: 3,105
Default

Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
Joe,
Thanks for the suggestion, but someone else suggested something that sounded fantastic. Here is what I did.
I over cut the cloth by about 3/4 inches on all sides. I put a piece of wax paper down on my foam cutting board and spread some epoxy on the wax paper. I put the cloth down on the epoxy and put more epoxy on top of the cloth. I then put another piece of wax paper on top and squeegeed the cloth between the sheets.

I put a thin layer of epoxy on the balsa in the joint area.

I then cut through the wax paper / cloth sandwich to get the correct size. This results in no frayed edges on the cloth. Strip off the top wax paper sheet, take the cloth / bottom wax paper to the wing and position appropriately. Smooth the wax paper / cloth on the wing and then remove the wax paper.

Seems to work great
That almost sounds like peal ply a friend of mine uses it on big 120 pound or more planes that need to be all glassed . Once you pull the peal ply off its very smooth with very little pinholes and very little sanding. Good struff and your friend who gave you this method is good. joe
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	fighters174   merlans.jpg
Views:	150
Size:	39.0 KB
ID:	169120  
road king 97 is offline  
Old 05-30-2013, 06:33 PM
  #55  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
... you can do this with no worry about time.
Yep I did need to work fast, but I actually had my wife helping so it was not a real problem.

Last edited by paxskipper; 05-30-2013 at 08:08 PM.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-08-2013, 09:32 PM
  #56  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

Well I'm down to final sanding (400 grit) - looks like next step is to cover it.
After that attach LG, install the motor, install servos, balance it and then go fly.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-08-2013, 10:37 PM
  #57  
road king 97
old hat
 
road king 97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: joliet il
Posts: 3,105
Default

Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
Well I'm down to final sanding (400 grit) - looks like next step is to cover it.
After that attach LG, install the motor, install servos, balance it and then go fly.
Just take your time and make sure the temperture is right on your iron an remember that coverig will stretch when enough heat is applyed to it to be stretched around stuff like round wing tips. joe
road king 97 is offline  
Old 06-09-2013, 12:20 AM
  #58  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Just take your time and make sure the temperture is right on your iron an remember that coverig will stretch when enough heat is applyed to it to be stretched around stuff like round wing tips. joe
This will be an interesting experience as I have not covered a complete plane before. I have done a repair, but that was reasonably easy. This beast has all kinds of interesting corners and things I'll need to work around.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-09-2013, 02:22 AM
  #59  
soarrich
Soarrich
 
soarrich's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NJ, USA
Posts: 203
Default

Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
This beast has all kinds of interesting corners and things I'll need to work around.
I find that you should start at the tail and cover forward, that way the layers lay down like a fish's scales.

Where the vertical fin and stab come together, if I remember correctly, you have a 1/4" step. This step is much easier to cover with a small piece first. I take a 1/2" wide slice off the end of the roll and put it in the vortex of any sharp corners, the fin to the top of the fuse and the stab to the fuse for example.
soarrich is offline  
Old 06-09-2013, 03:04 AM
  #60  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

Originally Posted by soarrich View Post
I find that you should start at the tail and cover forward, that way the layers lay down like a fish's scales.

Where the vertical fin and stab come together, if I remember correctly, you have a 1/4" step. This step is much easier to cover with a small piece first. I take a 1/2" wide slice off the end of the roll and put it in the vortex of any sharp corners, the fin to the top of the fuse and the stab to the fuse for example.
Thanks, I'll add your suggestion to my notes that I have been putting together.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-09-2013, 05:38 AM
  #61  
Dereck
Super Contributor
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,071
Default

There was a very good letter sized paperback available from one of the US RC hobby publishers that took you through covering step by step. I miserably failed to find it, but a google search on 'film covering model aircraft' unearthed several online articles on the topic. Might be worth a look.

Covering iron temperature is important. My favourite here is one of those little point and read remote thermometers - mine came from Radio Shack. Covering iron temperature gauges are very vague, this sort of thermometer allows you to maintain close control over your iron temps. Most iron on coverings have temps recommended in their instruction sheets.

Take it easy, make sure nothing else will bug you when you start working on the covering. Good luck!

D
Dereck is offline  
Old 06-09-2013, 01:06 PM
  #62  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Thumbs up Did the first weigh-in today

Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
There was a very good letter sized paperback available from one of the US RC hobby publishers that took you through covering step by step.
...
Take it easy, make sure nothing else will bug you when you start working on the covering. Good luck!

D
Thanks, I'll try your particular search suggestion - could be I'll find some nuggets that I have not already found.

BTW I weighed all the pieces and parts this morning and it comes in at 5.5 Lbs. I'll need to do this again with all the parts in their approximate locations to see how the balance is. But so far so good it seems.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-23-2013, 12:22 PM
  #63  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

At this point I'm about done with sanding. Next step is to mount everything where it belongs and see where the CG ends up. I'm guessing that covering will not affect the balance too much so I'll add weight as may be needed to balance both ways.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-25-2013, 02:29 AM
  #64  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Thumbs up Ready to Cover

Temporarily installed the servos, fin and all control surfaces. Cut pushrods to length and did a rough centering of the servos to check the lengths. I'll need some minor adjustments later. Have drilled all holes for control horns.

Needed to rework the upper battery tray a little to get the battery to fit. Tested the receiver with 5 volt supply as well as connected to ESC.

Looks like I'll need 5 1/2 oz of weight in the back to balance; not sure if there is anything I can do about reducing weight forward.

Ready to cover.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-25-2013, 03:28 PM
  #65  
road king 97
old hat
 
road king 97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: joliet il
Posts: 3,105
Default

Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
Temporarily installed the servos, fin and all control surfaces. Cut pushrods to length and did a rough centering of the servos to check the lengths. I'll need some minor adjustments later. Have drilled all holes for control horns.

Needed to rework the upper battery tray a little to get the battery to fit. Tested the receiver with 5 volt supply as well as connected to ESC.

Looks like I'll need 5 1/2 oz of weight in the back to balance; not sure if there is anything I can do about reducing weight forward.

Ready to cover.
I have done this before but its alot of extra work , you could move the servos back and put a hatch to get to them on the bottom but at this point you should proply look for a weighted prop nut to help you out. I think Hobby lobby rc sells them ,this way you might get away with less weight because the nut is all the way up front. joe
road king 97 is offline  
Old 06-25-2013, 04:33 PM
  #66  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
I have done this before but its alot of extra work , you could move the servos back ...
Joe,

I decided this morning that if I rework the battery trays (I'm using 2 3S batteries) I can relocate both batteries further back and not need to add weight to the tail.

So I'll do a little more interior work and eliminate the balance problem.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-25-2013, 06:22 PM
  #67  
road king 97
old hat
 
road king 97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: joliet il
Posts: 3,105
Default

Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
Joe,

I decided this morning that if I rework the battery trays (I'm using 2 3S batteries) I can relocate both batteries further back and not need to add weight to the tail.

So I'll do a little more interior work and eliminate the balance problem.
Good choice ,i run my solent with two 3 cell 3200 lipos for the same reason .I also have a C size 2700 sanyo nimph pack up by the nose for my servos and reciever just in case my motors stop . It has plenty of power but flys like a big Kadet sr except slower .lmao This year i went from brushed to brushless motors and now iam going to have two- 3 cell 5000 packs for extra flying time and i have 6 inches or so to slide them back . joe
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Img_7086.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	28.1 KB
ID:	169590  
road king 97 is offline  
Old 06-26-2013, 03:42 AM
  #68  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

Well I started covering the wing. Almost done, but it is getting last and I am getting tired. Don't want to mess up now
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-26-2013, 02:32 PM
  #69  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default Finished covering wing

Here are a couple of pictures of my Super KAOS wing (top / bottom).
This is my first covering job, so I think it looks ok. I suspect that the picture sizes will not allow for any critiques, but I'll accept any.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Wing Top Small.jpg
Views:	194
Size:	87.2 KB
ID:	169605   Click image for larger version

Name:	Wing Bottom Small.jpg
Views:	212
Size:	99.5 KB
ID:	169606  
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-26-2013, 02:45 PM
  #70  
pd1
Still Learning
 
pd1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North of Boston
Posts: 4,098
Default

Looks good to me.

Paul
pd1 is offline  
Old 06-26-2013, 07:07 PM
  #71  
soarrich
Soarrich
 
soarrich's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NJ, USA
Posts: 203
Thumbs up Nice job.

Looks good, easy to tell top from bottom.
soarrich is offline  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:03 PM
  #72  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Default

Well covering is done and I am installing the control surfaces. A few things left to do and this will be ready to fly.

Pictures soon.
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-29-2013, 11:07 PM
  #73  
paxskipper
New Electric Flyer
Thread Starter
 
paxskipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 120
Thumbs up It Is Done

Well at long last I have finished building this. I'll maiden this on Monday. I still have to decide if I'm going to put the canopy on.

Thanks for all of the good comments along the way. I'll let you know how things work out.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_9102  Small.jpg
Views:	685
Size:	501.8 KB
ID:	169656   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_9104 Small.jpg
Views:	218
Size:	675.4 KB
ID:	169657  
paxskipper is offline  
Old 06-29-2013, 11:24 PM
  #74  
road king 97
old hat
 
road king 97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: joliet il
Posts: 3,105
Default

Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
Well at long last I have finished building this. I'll maiden this on Monday. I still have to decide if I'm going to put the canopy on.

Thanks for all of the good comments along the way. I'll let you know how things work out.
I put a jet pilot in my canopy back in the day it flew fast enough with a tuned pipe . Yours tuned out very nice and good luck with your maiden. joe
road king 97 is offline  
Old 06-30-2013, 07:33 AM
  #75  
CHELLIE
Super Contributor
 
CHELLIE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Hesperia, So. Calif
Posts: 19,255
Default

Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
Well at long last I have finished building this. I'll maiden this on Monday. I still have to decide if I'm going to put the canopy on.

Thanks for all of the good comments along the way. I'll let you know how things work out.
Very nice build set the CG at 25% of the wing cord for the maiden flight, so you wont have a tail heavy issue, and then adjust the CG from there, little by little untill you find the sweet spot BTW, I get to do the maiden Flight on it Ok Just kidding Take care and have fun, Chellie

CHELLIE is offline  

Quick Reply: Super KAOS Build - Electric


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.

Page generated in 0.15907 seconds with 17 queries