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Super KAOS Build - Electric

Old 04-22-2013, 05:57 PM
  #26  
Dereck
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Never mind whittlin' block for the wingtips - this is close enough for a high speed pass.

Have the CG a little closer to what's needed after a bad start. May have to search my 'lightening holes' box for the fuselage sides though.

D
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:49 PM
  #27  
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Moving along: the left wing is in progress.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:25 AM
  #28  
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Left wing complete

I'll be starting on the fuse early next week; commitments this weekend. I have mods to make here for the conversion to electric. I'll need to move bulkhead 1 forward to allow for proper positioning for the motor. I'll also open up bulkhead 2 to give me some more battery room.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:51 AM
  #29  
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Left and right wings are ready to be joined. I can not finish the bottom LE sheeting until I get the fuselage built so I can properly locate the LE dowels.

I'll be starting on the fuselage today. This will include cutting all of the hing slots for all control surfaces because I will be epoxying the stabilizer to the fuselage as part of the fuselage construction.
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:06 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by paxskipper View Post
Left wing complete

I'll be starting on the fuse early next week; commitments this weekend. I have mods to make here for the conversion to electric. I'll need to move bulkhead 1 forward to allow for proper positioning for the motor. I'll also open up bulkhead 2 to give me some more battery room.
Good moves on the fuselage mods. Former 2 can easily stand being turned into a sort-of 'U' shape to allow the battery to sit in the correct fore and aft position under a battery access hatch

D
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:21 AM
  #31  
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Well the top block is cut out and the pieces assembled. Stabilizer is tacked on; I'll epoxy it later when I'm sure everything is lined up ok. Just need to wait for the glue to dry then I can start with the bulkheads and sides.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:28 PM
  #32  
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Well, the house sold - in less than 24 hours and for asking price - so the pack-up has seriously commenced. Or it will when we know where we're going, apart from 'away from Chicago'.

So my large scale 'K-E-os' is now in a big cardboard box, and I'm kinda thankful I didn't glue the tailplane and fin on, as I'd have needed an even bigger box...

Don't have a handy shot of the battery hatch, but mine runs from the wing TE former to about halfway between the firewall and the wing LE. Looking at the CADKaos plan and feeling idle, I made the top from firewall to rear end from 1/4" sheet balsa. With that l-o-n-g tail moment, I suspect that wasn't a bright moment May have to add some holes to the top sheeting between wing and tailplane.

Am real glad I extended the fuselage sides to support a firewall in the correct place for my OS outrunner vice using spacers or whatever to correctly position the motor. Last big pain noted before packing it up - finding a suitable length of canopy for the beast. Canopies of the needed shape aren't as easy to find as they used to be. I have a couple, but only in the two standard military sizes - too big and too small!

I have seen photos of Kaos without canopies - may learn to live with it for a while...

D
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:45 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
...
Don't have a handy shot of the battery hatch, but mine runs from the wing TE former to about halfway between the firewall and the wing LE. Looking at the CADKaos plan and feeling idle, I made the top from firewall to rear end from 1/4" sheet balsa. With that l-o-n-g tail moment, I suspect that wasn't a bright moment May have to add some holes to the top sheeting between wing and tailplane.

Am real glad I extended the fuselage sides to support a firewall in the correct place for my OS outrunner vice using spacers or whatever to correctly position the motor. Last big pain noted before packing it up - finding a suitable length of canopy for the beast. Canopies of the needed shape aren't as easy to find as they used to be. I have a couple, but only in the two standard military sizes - too big and too small!...
D
I'm thinking about pretty much the same thing for a hatch; from just behind the firewall to just behind the canopy.

I am planning on moving the firewall forward so as not to need spacers behind my Power 60. I'm looking at either 2 3S 5K batteries or 1 6S 5K battery. I'm planning on putting in a battery floor between firewall and bulkhead #2. I'm going to put an RX floor above the wing and under the hatch so I can get at the connections with the hatch off.

I'm planning on putting the rudder and elevator servos in the tail. This means I'm going to use a small servo under the battery floor for the nose gear.

As of the moment I have the fuse top ready - forward top block and stabilizer tacked on in correct position. I'm currently marking up the bulkheads and plywood for the battery floor; I'll be cutting and drilling soon.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:05 PM
  #34  
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Sparks sells canopys ,maybe he has one that fits for little money. joe http://parkflyerplastics.com/cart/in...index&cPath=46
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:48 PM
  #35  
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Check the Sig canopies too. They have a couple of sizes of generic bubbles appropriate for a Kaos.

I'm getting more and more inclined to make a vacuum forming table...
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:46 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
Check the Sig canopies too. They have a couple of sizes of generic bubbles appropriate for a Kaos.

I'm getting more and more inclined to make a vacuum forming table...
I built me one out of a big shop vac and electrict heating coils and it worked good but i have not used it enough to pay for the time of building it. Sooner or later i will need a bunch of formed plastic stuff and iam sure i will be happy i built it then. joe
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:38 PM
  #37  
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Cheers folks, will check out those canopy sources when the dust settles.

Battery bay and access. I have a thing about nailing down the battery fore and aft location on a model. The attached hopefully give some idea of how I get to a point where I can fine-tune the balance by easily moving the battery.

F2, the wing LE former, doesn't need to follow the glow fuel tank convention. I make mine in a 'U' shape so the pack can sit astride the LE and be shuffled back and forth some to set the CG. In the case of my 'K-E-os', the fuselage is just wide enough for a 3600mA 3S and attendant wiring, so I made F2 from a ply solid area below the battery tray with 1/4 x 1/8" spruce uprights from fuselage bottom to top edges.

A wider fuselage would just have a battery sized U cut-out in a ply former.

Either allows the pack to sit atop the wing LE and have some back and forth room to maneuvre. Which turned out real good, as I didn't realise just how long the back end of a Kaos really is

Moving the firewall forward to match the intended motor also offered better space to place the ESC on the fuselage floor ahead of the pack.

If I'd been awake, I'd have put all the big bits together one more time and figured that I should move the servo mounts forward to just aft of the CG rather than conveniently sitting at the back of the over-wing bay. Not a lot, but every little helps when tail-heaviness sticks its nose into the build.

hope that helps

D
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:03 PM
  #38  
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D,

Thanks for the pictures and comments. I'm still fussing over the battery hatch.

I have been suffering from the thought that I was more likely to be nose heavy not tail heavy. So at the moment I'm planning on putting the rudder and elevator servos in the tail. I'll decide on the locations once I am done except for the bottom covering; Then I can locate the servos and batteries where it makes sense.
Steve
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:23 PM
  #39  
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Steve I've converted a few 60 size glo planes to electric and I haven't ended up nose heavy yet. I haven't done the Kaos yet, I have a 30 year old 90% one up stairs I'm planning on doing in the future.
I'll be watching your progress and hope you nail the CG . Then I can copy yours.

Dereck, love your hatch and battery tray.

Anyone know what the difference is between the original Kaos, 60 size and the Super Kaos?

Paul
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:12 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
...
Anyone know what the difference is between the original Kaos, 60 size and the Super Kaos?

Paul
I'm not sure, but I think it is mostly the rudder and fin. I think the super KAOS has more rudder area.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:31 PM
  #41  
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Have noticed that there's a lot of Kaos/Chaos photos out there on the web, and most of them are different from the rest!

Have no idea where or how 'CADKaos' got loose - the plan's info panel says it was 'Designed by Joe Bridi, scanned and drawn by Jerry Yarrish'. It's 58" span, has the trike UC and an under-fin below the rear fuselage with a rudder that also extends below the fuselage bottom line. Many have been built without that for whatever reason - have never heard anyone say anything about it improving or otherwise on flying habits, for one change.

CADKaos gives the span at 58" for a 60 engine.

It does come from an era where folk changed things as they built, as opposed to now, whereas folk now buy ARFs that are absolutely perfect

D
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:40 PM
  #42  
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Well Fuselage sides are going on. I need to put in bulkhead #1. After that I need to glue the wing halves together and drill holes for the dowels through the LE. This is starting to look like an airplane.

I'll provide more pic's when I get the wing halves together.
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Old 05-09-2013, 03:58 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post

Anyone know what the difference is between the original Kaos, 60 size and the Super Kaos?

Paul

My Super Kaos had a flared in nose with a spinner ring, my Kaos was more like the 40 with flat sides all the way to the front.
Rich
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:15 AM
  #44  
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Thanks for the help guys.
Eventually I'll scan my old plans and compare them to the newer versions.
Paul
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:41 PM
  #45  
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A request,

I'm looking for a top / side view outline graphic of this or a similar plane so I can work on a color scheme.

Thanks in advance
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:27 PM
  #46  
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Smile Super KAOS Progress - Wing Almost Done

Well it has been a while between updates, but I have been making progress.
Much of my effort has been focused on completing the wing. The only thing left to do before I can cover is to glass the joint.

I have also been working on the fuselage. The next steps for it are to make the cutouts for the servos, cut out the battery hatch on top, sheet the bottom, finish the bottom of the nose and then sand a lot. I'm going to use a small servo in the nose for the nose wheel and mix that to the rudder. My biggest problem is going to be making the motor hatch on the bottom. I'm hoping that once I put the motor in I'll never need to take it out, but just in case I'm making a hatch that I can remove for access to the motor.

See attached pictures.

I'm hoping to have it finished before the end of June. Then I'll need to figure out where to hang it on my garage wall. Right now the available space is taken up with three other planes.
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:30 AM
  #47  
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Looks good skipper ,iam sorry i missd your post about colors here look through these .They probly have one like your in here also. joe http://www.trentonrcflyers.com/pattern/patterna.htm
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:04 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Looks good skipper ,iam sorry i missd your post about colors here look through these ....
I have decided on red and white. Red on the bottom and white on the top. I'll put some white bars on the bottom of the wing. I might try for a red burst on the top. Given this is my first covering job I'll try to keep it simple.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:15 AM
  #49  
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The main thing about covering is the wood needs to be smooth ,start with 200 and work your way to ever 400 or 600 . You can fill dorks and dings with light drywall spackle but it has to be smooth also. joe
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:27 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
The main thing about covering is the wood needs to be smooth ,start with 200 and work your way to ever 400 or 600 . You can fill dorks and dings with light drywall spackle but it has to be smooth also. joe
So far I have sanded the wing with 220. I have tried to fill the dimples and cracks. Right now there are no edges other than under where the fiberglass will be on the wing joint, and those are not bad at all.
My plan is to do the final sanding tomorrow and put the FG on the wing joint.
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