Build Thread- WACO SRE From Manzano - Page 6 - WattFlyer RC Electric Flight Forums - Discuss radio control eflight

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Build Thread- WACO SRE From Manzano

Old 01-24-2009, 05:21 PM
  #126  
Sky Sharkster
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Default Pushrods, Stabilizer Mount

Hi Glenn,
Thanks for the tip, I should have tried the vinyl first, this has been frustrating. The Minwax/Litespan combination has worked fine for the covering, but the trim and lettering isn't working. I didn't have this problem with the earlier models, using BalsaLoc or Stix-It.
Here's the pushrod and stab mounting photos. They're in sequence, should be self-explanatory;
Ron
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Old 01-25-2009, 12:55 PM
  #127  
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Default Upper Wing Ailerons

Took a bit of a break from the fuselage today, began working on the upper wing aileron fitting.
When I left off, the wings had been sanded and the ailerons (temporarily) attached with tape. Now I needed to sand the outboard taper, mostly the last full rib and a gradual taper to the 1/8" tip material.
For this I used a long block with #220 paper.
The taper must match the sub-trailing edge with the leading edge of the aileron stock. Trying to sand this without chipping a rib or changing the basic airfoil is a fussy job and takes patience.
After one hour of careful work, here's the result;
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Old 01-26-2009, 12:56 AM
  #128  
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Default Aileron Hinging, Reinforcement

After sanding, I began hinge-slotting the ailerons. I also realized the small triangular gussets on the (inboard) end rib wouldn't really strengthen the aileron control horn mount. Checking the plans I found that a complete fill-in piece had been provided, I just overlooked it!
So I removed the gusset and added the fill-in sheet, last photo.
Ron
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:31 AM
  #129  
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Default Finishing Ailerons

Here's the finish of the ailerons. First I glued in the hinges, covered the surfaces, shrunk the Litespan, then applied 1 coat of Minwax.
Ron
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Old 01-31-2009, 01:33 AM
  #130  
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Default Elevator Hook-Up

This is the method I've been using lately for tail controls. For years I hooked the control horn to the elevator/rudder, hooked up the pushrod and made the adjustments (of length) at the servo end.
Which worked OK, but for some reason I tried it "backwards" and it seems easier and faster.
So, servos centered with the trim function, the threaded clevis is installed with half the threads covered, so I have equal movement in both directions, but the "Tail" end of the pushrod isn't trimmed to length and the tail control horn isn't installed.
I use a receiver battery plugged into the Rx (no suprise motor start-ups!) and no prop on the motor.
I slide the control horn onto the pushrod end and eyeball the location on the tail surface. Pushing the horn onto the tail leaves a couple of small indentations in the surface, marking where the horn pins will go.
Drill out the holes with a bit slightly smaller than the pins.
Dry fit the horn/pushrod, check throws and centering. Sometimes a slight bend in the pushrod wire is needed to avoid binding at the fuselage exit.
Make final "Z" bend in wire, trapping control horn.
Scrape away covering where control horn base will contact tail surface.
Apply CA to base of horn, insert horn in holes.
Make final centering adjustments at clevis end. Done.
Ron
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:29 PM
  #131  
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Default Fuselage (Mostly) covered, Controls Finished

Once I had the rudder + elevator controls done, I was able to cover the top + bottom of the fuselage rear. This nearly completes the covering of the fuse, but I'm waiting for the motor to finish the nose.
Here's the covering, applied and heat-shrunk, no topcoat. There's still a few pesky wrinkles to work out and I haven't worked on the loose edges. I've found with the Minwax that the corners sometimes lift. A re-application of adhesive and heat should fix it.
Ron
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Old 01-31-2009, 08:11 PM
  #132  
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Ron, this is coming along very nicely. How is your overall impression of your newfound covering method?
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Old 01-31-2009, 09:17 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by hoffboy View Post
I swear by Minwax and Silkspan over mylar (for open bays). I did recently have a small sample bay that had been banging around in my toolbox delaminate in one area, which gives me pause. I was able to then easily pull the silkspan cleanly away from the mylar, which gives me double pause. Has anyone tried Minwax and silkspan minus the mylar over open bays? I assume not, as the sagging would be murder (with little to no shrinkage to bring it back) so I'm going to try a test on the back side of the aforementioned sample bay. If it turns out that mylar is required, I'll look into possible ways to etch it, to give it some tooth and hopefully gripping power. It may be a non issue, but an in-flight delamination on a leading edge would be terrible indeed. -Matt
Hi Matt
I have been reading older posts, and came on this. I just finished my "Back in the hobby build", and I used a water based acrylic polyurethane and silkspan over open bays. I just didn't know any better, but in my ignorance I think I answered your question. I think it worked great. Everything came out very tight, and more coats seem to loosen things up a little when it is wet, and then tighten up again when it dries. The only problem I am having is durability, it seems to puncture easier than I remember silkspan and dope, although these memories are around 40 years old. I used a North West product called Dalys CrystalFin, because I had a gallon from some home projects, but I think it is very similar to Minwax.
I wanted to add that this is a beautiful looking model, thanks for posting it Ron.
MikeJ
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Old 02-01-2009, 12:29 AM
  #134  
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Default LiteSpan/CoverLite + Minwax

Hi Mike, Thanks for the comments, it's been fun so far!
Hello Kev,
To this point I'd say the Minwax is easier to use than either BalsaLoc or Stix-It. No odor, easy to apply, doesn't creep or slip off small surfaces while shrinking. The only drawback I see is that the Minwax is either too thick or dries too fast when applying a second layer, like trim or graphics. They bunch up worse than they did with either of the other two products. I have other wings covered with SoLite/LiteSpan using the older (recommended) adhesives, and the pinstripes, overlaps and AMA numbers are flat, or nearly so.
I haven't written to MA yet, because I'd like to resolve this problem before I recommend the process. Minwax does work as a one-layer adhesive and makes a great top coat.
Ron
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:34 PM
  #135  
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wow, you've been busy Ron, coming along nicely. I was wondering ,can the minwax be thinned a bit to slow the cure time on the second coat?

Glenn
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:57 PM
  #136  
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Default Thinner?

Hi Glenn,
I'd like to find out what I can use to thin it. Since I only have one can, I'm reluctant to experiment in the middle of covering this model.
Maybe when I get the wings covered I'll try what's left with a few thinning agents. There has to be something that will allow the lettering and stripes to lay flat.
The usual trick of Windex or soapy water won't work here, since the letters (or whatever graphics you're applying) need to have the Minwax brushed onto the back to apply.
Well, back to building!
Ron
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:34 PM
  #137  
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Default Eyeball, Guesstimate or Measure?

An old builder's adage is "Measure twice, cut once". Same applies to gluing. I had made a couple of false ribs for the inside of the cabin top. These were done so I could sheet the center cabin top, the "Roof".
But I got sidetracked, which happens often when you have to build in 1-hour bits.
Today I decided to add the ribs. I eyeballed their location, pinned them in place. Were they "deep" enough to allow the 1/16" sheeting to be flush with the wings? Too deep? Let's measure. I took the sheet of 1/16" and pressed it to conform to the false ribs' shape. In one spot it was to low. Unpinned the rib, raised it a hair, tried again. Another spot, too high, made the adjustment.
Once they were set, I figured there must be a way to glue them without losing the location or re-measuring while the glue was setting, never a good idea.
So, I pulled the ribs, but not the pins, away from the fuselage sides. A gap of about 1/4", enough to slide my improvised Titebond glue applicator, a bamboo skewer from the Dollar store.
Got the insides of both ribs coated, slid the ribs back against the fuselage sides, clamped in place. Improvisation, what a concept!
Ron
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Old 02-02-2009, 04:44 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Sky Sharkster View Post
Hi Glenn,
I'd like to find out what I can use to thin it. Since I only have one can, I'm reluctant to experiment in the middle of covering this model.
Maybe when I get the wings covered I'll try what's left with a few thinning agents. There has to be something that will allow the lettering and stripes to lay flat.
Ron
Since this is water based, I'd try just plain old tap water. I haven't needed to thin it yet, but I googled "thinning WBPU" and it appears others just use good old H2O.

Plane is looking great!

Matt
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Old 02-04-2009, 01:15 AM
  #139  
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Default Please, Mr. Postman...

Hi Matt,
I'd imagine you're right, I may try plain water befor I apply the stripe to the fuselage sides. Thanks!
The postman brought my motor and wing servos today. I ordered the HS-45's since they're a bit thinner than the 55's. I was hoping they would lay further below the covering, figuring it usually sags slightly between ribs.
http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...15f9a0e727c4d3
And the Scorpion S-2215-22. Here's the specs;
http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...15f9a0e727c4d3
Both from Mountain Models/Laser Arts. Thanks, Brian!
Ron
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:13 PM
  #140  
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Default Motor Mount

This is the beginning of the motor mount for the Scorpion motor. The kit mount is designed for a "Clamshell" geared mount, but the outrunner is firewall-mounted with an "X" or cruciform mount.
First I measured where the motor would be situated, using both the plan top view and side view.
Transfered the marks to the existing mount, Note that this is the rear of the motor, also the front of the new mount.
Traced the X mount onto light ply. Yes, this scrap piece is from the cut-out of the kit ply mount. Use everything!
Cut the mount to size, drill hole in center for the shaft collar.
Cut slots for mount, which is slightly wider than the opening. I used a razor blade to start the slots and a small square needle file to finish.
Dry fit new mount. This will also get some reinforcement on the back, scrap balsa.
Ron
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:36 PM
  #141  
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Ron, that's cool how you did that mount. The things I learn about watching you just amaze me.
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Old 02-06-2009, 06:02 PM
  #142  
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Default New Mount

Thanks, Kev! It just seemed like a logical way to use the existing mount.
Here's the motor test-fitted to the mount. The cowl lined right up;
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Old 02-07-2009, 04:52 PM
  #143  
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Default Motor Mount Reinforcements

Here's the balsa reinforcements added to the mount. First, triangular gussets added vertically behind the mounts, strengthening the "tilt" or up-and-down axis. These are scrap 1/8" balsa.
Next, small scraps behind the screw mounting holes, the firewall is only 1/8" (Lite ply) so these provide a little more depth for the screws.
Last, 3/16" x 1/2" balsa cut to size, to tie the mounts to the horizontal plate better and link the mount to the outer side plates.
Lots of little pieces, but it's the best I could come up with!
Ron
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Old 02-08-2009, 07:05 AM
  #144  
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Default Motor In Place, Aileron Servo

Here's the motor in place, also I began slotting the ribs for the upper wing servo.
Ron
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:40 AM
  #145  
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Default Early Repair?

While I was working on the right wing aileron set-up, I noticed that the root rib and trailing edge appeared to be "Dinged". Hanger rash, but in looking a little closer, it is obvious I had sanded the trailing edge too thin at the root and it was bound to fail.
So I cut new 1/16" root ribs, glued them in place and set about fixing the too-thin section. I started with a scrap of 1/8" balsa, removed a wedge of T.E. and replaced it. Here's the step-by-step.
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:10 AM
  #146  
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Default Aileron Servo Install

Here's the first aileron servo installation. A double-wrap of masking tape, glued in place. I used 1/16" ply horns, then covered the edges of the wing where the aileron will mate up. It may look confusing, but I have a plan!
Ron
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Old 02-16-2009, 01:49 AM
  #147  
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Default Ailerons Done, Side Windows, Weight

Here's a couple of photos of the top wing, the ailerons are done. Servos installed, hinges glued, ailerons centered and yes, I checked, when one goes up, the other goes down! I ran out of brass threaded couplers for this size music wire so had to resort to the ol' "V" bend for final adjustment.
Next I began working on the side windows. I wanted to get this done now, it would be much harder with the wings in place.
I had some clear acetate, cut it to rough size, then traced the opening with a marker. Next I used a black marker to color the inside frames.
The plastic is pretty dusty but I'll wait until I get done smudging my fingers all over before I clean it.
Then I taped the windows in place, pushed (from the inside) the acetate against the triangle, which was held against the fuselage side.
I applied RC 56 from the inside with (at first) toothpicks. Found out they weren't long enough for the job, ended up using bamboo skewers, trimmed to a "shovel" end.
Only the front windows will be covered with acetate, the rears will be left open for a battery cooling exit.
Now I'll let it dry overnight. If it doesn't come out, I'll try another method.
Last, the latest weights;
FuselageW/Tail, wheels, 2 servos, motor installed (no prop) 245 gr. 8.6 Oz.
Top + Bottom wings, aileron servos (wings not covered) 78 gr. 2.7 Oz.
Total; 323 Gr. 11.3 Oz.
Ron
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:28 PM
  #148  
Sparkie
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Ron you have been busy, I see your at the window instalation stage, hope it worked out for ya, windows seem to be a tricky process, I know nobody likes to get close to acetate with CYI becuase of the fogging, but I do , when ataching windows from the inside of the fusillage I use thick CYI , I also wash my hands real good because CYI fumes are attracted to your finger print oils. I put just a very small drop on two of the corners of the acetate, that will hold it in place, then I chase around the whole edge with canopy glue, when ever it does fog I spray or brush on a bit of Future Floor wax on the side with the fog or craze and it will dissapear. try it out on a scrap piece to see if you like the results.

Glenn
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Old 02-22-2009, 01:12 AM
  #149  
Sky Sharkster
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Hi Glenn,
Thanks for the suggestion, I may try it. I'm not happy with the method I tried. Not because it didn't work, but the side panels are in such an odd location to get at; I ended up smearing the RC 56 onto the plastic. There must be a better way! I'll try the slow CA and re-do the side windows.
Ron
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Old 02-22-2009, 02:19 AM
  #150  
Sparkie
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I hope it works for you Ron, I have also used doculam for windows,but that is when I'm covering with So-Lite, you can iron it on over the solite, you have to be carefull with it because it shrinks at a much higher heat than the So-lite, I used this method on the sky lights on the wing of the Dumas B-Dog, on another application I used 010" styrene and cut out a window frame for the skylight on my MM Cub pushed in a few rivots with a dulled end of a skewer , sprayed the frame the color I wanted then Glued the acetate under the frame with canopy glue ,let dry, then glued the entire skylight to the wing.

just a few thoughts

Glenn
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