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Build Thread- WACO SRE From Manzano

Old 12-15-2008, 12:54 AM
  #26  
Sky Sharkster
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Default Starting The Wings

Although I'm not done with the fuselage yet, I'm going to put it aside and begin the wings. Why? Well, I'm short a few servos, so can't work on the controls right now. Mostly, it's because I don't have a motor yet (although I do have one picked out) and with the Holidays so close, can't really afford to order it right now. Without the motor, I can't fabricate a motor mount. The geared "400" cut-out won't work with my intended motor.
Anyway, I'll go back to the fuselage as I get the parts.
So, began by selecting the strip stock. Plenty to choose from, I used the two hardest and straightest pieces of 1/8" x 1/4" for the upper wing leading edges. The lower wing lists 1/8" x 3/16" for the leading edge, but there's none of this size included with the kit. There is plenty of extra 1/8" x 1/4", so no problem there.
But, I won't need to use it. A pleasant suprise, when I cut the upper wing L.E.'s to size, the excess is more than long enough for the lower wing L.E.'s. Very good engineering.
I did run into a minor snag regarding the tip construction; The laser-cut 1/8" balsa pieces fit properly as shown in photo #2. But, this doesn't jibe with the plans, Photo #3. Photo # 4 shows the different construction types. And the laser-cut trailing edges match the plans, not the pre-cut tips. Well, it's no problem to trim the rear tip piece to match the plans + T.E. This may only be a running change in the laser-cutting that hasn't been modified on the plans, or it could be that the "Full Kit" is different from the "Plans Only" version. Either way, it's a quick fix, just wanted to point it out.
Going by Tim Hooper's article in RCG, I decided to extend the ailerons one rib bay, Photos # 5 + 6 show this.
The laser-cutting is otherwise perfect, every piece fits exactly where it should and the strip stock is very good. The main spars are spruce for both wings, so they should be very strong spanwise.
Another helpful addition is the rib identifier on the plans. The ribs aren't marked on the wood, so it's handy to be able to match each of the 4 different upper wing ribs to their correct location. Nice touch!
Ron
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Old 12-15-2008, 02:57 PM
  #27  
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Default More Wing Prep

Here I'm beginning the upper wing construction. The spruce spar needs to be notched at the bottom to match the tip (1/8") Photo # 1.
Photo # 2- I've cut vertically and split off 1/8".
# 3- Test fit.
Next, the last outboard rib (T-4) isn't as tall as the others, and the spar notch isn't as deep. The spar needs to be tapered from the last T-3 to accomodate this.
After marking the taper, I began slicing away the excess. Slow, shallow cuts on the spruce, eventually it comes off.
Then a test fit.
The front of the tip doesn't match the L.E. location, similar to the trailing edge I mentioned earlier. Here I used a straightedge to line everything up, then removed a short section.
Last photo-Test fit.
Next, the aileron modification!
Ron
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Old 12-15-2008, 06:23 PM
  #28  
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Default Beginning Upper Wing, Aileron Construction

Here's the modification to the upper wing for enlarged ailerons. Took a bit of head-scratching and measuring, but it all worked out.
The photos and captions should be help explain;
Ron
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:57 AM
  #29  
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Default Left wing done, Start on right wing

With the temperature around zero here yesterday, I got a bit more done.
I finished the left wing (photo # 1) including the sheeting for the servo. Only the sheeting over ribs # 1 + 2 (inboard) left to do. I also added a few gussets at stress point.
Photos # 2 + 3 show the nearly-completed right upper panel.
It's coming along!
Ron
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Old 12-17-2008, 11:59 AM
  #30  
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Default Upper Wing Done

Here's the finished construction of both upper wing panels. The wood provided for the sheeting was "A" grain, perfect for this application. I used TiteBond for this, so there would be time to line everything up.
Ron
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:49 AM
  #31  
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Default Sanding, Shaping Upper Wing Panels

Now the dust starts flying! I start with my trusty razor plane, then # 200 garnet paper, always on a long block. If you hand-hold (no block) sandpaper, you will get dips and low spots. Very poor aerodynamics, not to mention asthetics.
Only the final sanding, using worn-out # 400 wet-or-dry is hand held.
Anyway, here's the beginning, comparing the shaped and sanded right wing panel with the left.
Ron
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:57 PM
  #32  
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Default Wing Reinforcements, Aileron Shaping

As I was sanding the right upper wing panel, a couple of potential weak spots showed up. The outboard strut mounting pieces (1/16" x 3/16") looked a little wobbly to me and I have had curved tips suffer a landing or hanger rash. So, I reinforced both. This could very well be overkill and no other builder has mentioned problems, but it gave me peace of mind and didn't add too much weight.
I used 1/16" square balsa on each side of the struts, first 3 photos.
Next, I laminated or "faced" the outside of the tips. For this I used 1/32" x 1/8" basswood. This is available in the Railroad section of most Hobby or Craft supply shops. For that I used fast CA, holding and bending at the same time.
Last, I shaped the front of the aileron, a rounded bevel, using the folded # 200 sandpaper shown in the last photo;
Ron
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:36 PM
  #33  
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Default

Looks good Ron. Should be another nice bird.
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Old 12-20-2008, 06:58 PM
  #34  
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Default So Far, So Good!

Thanks, Andy,
It's coming along well, no problems so far. A couple differences between the laser-cutting and the plans (as noted) that were easy to figure out.
I'm very impressed with the wood selection, completeness of the included parts, instructions and especially the plans. Every former and rib is shown full-size, everything is laid out in logical order.
And, I'm really looking forward to seeing it fly!
Ron
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Old 12-21-2008, 02:08 AM
  #35  
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Default Left Upper Wing Finished, Weights

Managed to get a couple hours in today, added the reinforcements noted above to the left wing and rough-sanded (after razor-planing) the edges.
Here's a few photos, the weight of both wings (total) as shown is 41 grams/1.4 ounces.
The weight of the fuselage structure as shown in post # 25 (without cowl) is 63 grams/2.2 ounces.
Ron
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:27 AM
  #36  
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Default Bottom Wing, Started

After watching a rerun of "Saturday Night Live", I got a bit inspired and worked on the bottom wing panels.
(1) First I laid out the L.E., T.E., spar and tips, checking for the fit.
(2) Then I marked the ribs, according to the plan guide.
(3) Tried fitting ribs...Oooops, forgot to taper the spar!
(4) Once I did that, everything fit perfectly, here both panels are glued and drying.
Ron
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Old 12-21-2008, 03:15 PM
  #37  
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Default My Trusty Razor Plane

Here's how I save a lot of time and effort shaping leading + trailing edges.
This is my razor plane from Master Airscrew aka Windsor Propellers.
http://masterairscrew.com/razorplane.aspx
I've had this tool for many years, been through a few sets of blades (they sell replacement blades, it's not really a razor blade) and now, I couldn't build a balsa model without it.
I added a few braces and inboard sheeting to the lower wing panels.
Then I placed a full sheet of #200 sandpaper flat on the board and "rubbed" the wing panel chord-wise across it, smoothing and flattening the bottom of the surface. Also removes excess glue and laser burn.
Next, the faithful razor plane. The photos should be self-explanatory. Yes, I can use it right or left-handed, it's that easy, once you get the hang of it. Notice that the trailing edge shavings are wider than the leading edge shavings; I hold the plane more level, nearly parallel to the airfoil.
I knock the edges down to about 1/64" of their true height and carefully sand the rest.
Ron
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:13 AM
  #38  
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Default Outside Laminations

Here's the sequence for laminating the outside edge of the bottom wing. Since this is a much smaller radius (smaller chord) I wasn't too sure the 1/32" x 1/8" basswood would make the curves without cracking. But it made the bends fine.
I must apologize for the fuzzy photos and flash glare off the Saran wrap. It's hard to hold everything in one hand and click with the other! Occasionally the camera would "hunt" for focus and settle on my thumb instead of the work.
After gluing and wrapping each section I would rub the piece down until I could tell it wasn't going to pop back up. Then I lifted the wrap and moved forward. The whole process for one panel tip took about 10 minutes, before sanding.
Hope it's useful!
Ron
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:17 AM
  #39  
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Top notch notch'in Ron!! Bub, steve

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Old 12-22-2008, 03:13 AM
  #40  
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Default Thanks, Bub!

Thanks, Steve,
The laser-cutting is as good on this kit as I've ever seen. Makes it a real pleasure to build.
The little extras like laminating the tips, gussets and so on, aren't really necessary but precautions against problems I've had in the past. I'm sure if the model were built exactly per plan it would be fine.
Happy Holidays, Buddy!
Ron
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Old 12-22-2008, 04:49 PM
  #41  
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Default Stuck Together?

Seems like any time I have more than two components built on a model, I just have to "stick" them together, whether it's with tape, pins or wishful thinking. The Waco is no exception;
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Old 12-22-2008, 05:59 PM
  #42  
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Ron, Great work as always.
Here's some food for thought on the finish.

Paul
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:08 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Sky Sharkster View Post
Hello Pburt,
Those black caps on the pins are called "Pin Clamps". Very handy, you don't have to stick the pin though the wood, the clamp holds it firmly;
http://www.tailspinaviation.com/html...es__books.html
Scroll 1/3 down the page.
I use wood glue (Titebond) for large joints, laminating, sheeting, doublers, anywhere the parts need a bit of time to align or have a large surface area. It gives you more time to set things up, also you can spread it evenly. It has a slow drying time, which can be an advantage.
CA is great for small, fast joints. It is also easier to wick into tight areas.
Epoxy is mainly for high-stress areas like motor mounts and landing gear.

Hi Rolling Thunder,
One reason this kit wouldn't be a suitable for a first-time builder is that assembling a "stick" fuselage (or, in this case, a partial stick) requires cutting, sanding and alignment skills that take some time to acquire. At least in my case, the first few times I tried it (many years ago) the results were poor. Ill-fitting joints, misalignment and an unflyable model.
Most "Starter" kits have photo-illustrated instructions to help with difficult areas. This kit has text-only instructions.
Generally, starter kits have interlocking or self-aligning components, some sort of jig or slotted, keyed assembly techniques. None here, so far.
Perhaps an overlooked factor is tools. It takes some time and a few model builds to build up and learn the use of model tools (although basic carpentry skills will help) like the various adhesives, miter box, zona saw, clamping, cutting and sanding, alignment and measuring, finishing and covering.
I've always believed that building properly isn't one big skill, but a lot of little ones. Learning them all to a high degree takes time, patience and experience.
I don't mean to sound elitist, but a kit from Mountain Models, ACE, Stevens Aero would be a better place to start and provide a greater chance of success.
But, there's always exceptions!

Hi Jim, Welcome aboard! I'm looking forward to this model, should be a real beauty in the air. Still got a long way to go.
Ron
Thanks Ron!
For the tip on the Pin Clamps!! Ordered 2 sets yesterday! I learn something new every day on WattFlyer!!
Thanks
Jimmy
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:24 PM
  #44  
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Default Hi Paul + Jimmy!

Hello Paul, glad to hear from you. Thanks for the photos, I've been looking for an interior shot. The color schemes are outstanding, something about the Waco seems to lend itself to beautiful coloring and trim. I really like the maroon and black also, but Coverlite only comes in regular red. I'm definitely going to use the long color stripe down the fuselage that wraps around the cowl, that is classic.
Hi Jimmy, glad my tip is useful. The pin clamps are great, a simple solution to holding strip wood down without sticking the pin through it.
Ron
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Old 12-27-2008, 03:40 PM
  #45  
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Default Nose Sheeting

Back to the fuselage for a bit. After test-fitting the cowl onto the rear ply ring, I realized that sheeting the portion that blends the round cowl to the flat fuselage would have a larger diameter than the cowl. What I needed was a platform for the sheeting that was 1/16" (the thickness of the sheeting) smaller in diameter than the cowl ring.
Here's my solution; The ring is 4-1/4" diameter. With the sheeting reduced 1/16" everywhere (a total of 1/8" less diameter) I needed a circle of 4-1/8" as a guide. I could use a drafting compass, but on the off chance there was something else handy, I began searching my kitchen cabinets. Sure enough, a small glass container (formerly holding loose teabags!) was nearly exactly the right size.
So I cut 4 quarter-circles, using the inside circle of the front ply ring as an inside guide. Then I checked with a scrap of 1/16" balsa to confirm it would make everything flush.
It's difficult to explain, hope the photos clear it up!
Ron
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Old 12-27-2008, 08:46 PM
  #46  
Sky Sharkster
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Default Sheeting the nose, more kitchen aids

After gluing the 4 sheeting reinforcements behind the rear cowl ring, I rough-shaped a piece of 1/16" balsa "A" grain. Note the bevel on the "Straight" rear side, to match the angle of the fuselage nose taper.
That nice front-edge curve wasn't eyeballed, I'm not that good! Here's what I used, kitchens are full of useful stuff!
Soaked two sheeting pieces in very hot water for about 15 minutes, wrapped the nose in cling wrap (to prevent the wet wood from loosening glue joints or warping the rest of the nose) and wrapped several rubber bands around everything.
Then I slid the pieces under the bands but over the cling wrap. Just pushed them rearward until they dropped off the cowl ring onto the step-down reinforcements.
Flat-ply scrap at the rear to flatten out the sheeting where it will match the fuse sides.
Now I'll let it dry overnight, remove, trim to final shape and glue in place.
Ron
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:33 PM
  #47  
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Default Nose Sheeting, Start Tail Surfaces

Here's photos of the nose sheeting after an overnight drying. I test-fitted the two pieces and they look fine. A little trimming and they'll be ready to glue in place. Then I'll shape the upper and lower pieces.
While the sheeting was drying, I began construction of the horizontal stabilizer.
Also made up F-3 upper wing dihedral brace and glued in place. The bottom wing has no dihedral.
Ron
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:49 PM
  #48  
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Default Oooopps!!

Here's a building trick I'm not particularly proud of, since it usually follows a crash, building error or plain ol' poor workmanship.
When I cut the sheeting to size, I failed to notice the left-side sheeting was slightly too short. After gluing in place, there was an uneven vertical gap between the rear of the sheet and the fuselage break or taper point.
If left as is, it would result in a dip in the covering. Sloppy, not acceptable.
So I glued on a 1/16" balsa strip bridging the gap. Note the grain direction of the patch, same as the sheet and fuse side material.
Then I whittled it down with #120 sandpaper, on balsa this is the equilivent of a wood rasp. Overkill, but effective.
When I had the patch down to about 1/64" I switched to #220. then #400 wet-or-dry, first on sanding blocks, then hand-held.
It looks ugly, but it's smooth and even. The photos have trouble showing depth, but it's flat. Hopefully the covering will hide my mistake.
Althought the ride side was cut properly, I did the same, so as to blend it in better.
Here's hoping you never need this tip!
Ron
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:13 PM
  #49  
hoffboy
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Default

Originally Posted by Sky Sharkster View Post
Here's hoping you never need this tip!
I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that if you (with your rather obvious skill and experience) needed this technique, I'm probably going to need it tomorrow! I've already learned about six things from this build. Subscribed, and watching closely. Thanks especially for the copious photos. Like many people new to this hobby and bitten by the build bug, I'm a visual learner.

Matt
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:51 PM
  #50  
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Default Glad To Help!

Hello Matt, Welcome to Wattflyer!
Thanks for the kind words, I'm sure I can show lots of "How-Not-To Do's" as we go along.
But I'm picky and my own worst critic. Once the plane is finished and flying, these small problems are forgotten, just another lesson.
Glad to hear you've got the building bug, it's great fun, relaxing in a strange way and very rewarding.
Sometimes I'll make myself a cup of coffee, put on some music and build away. None of the worries of "Real" life intrude, it's pure concentration and fun.
What are you building?
Ron
P.S. I replied to your Friends request, check your profile.
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