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SSOS (a Slow Stick build thread)

Old 03-15-2007, 03:58 PM
  #176  
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Looks like he used a 4-40 hex bolt, washers, and nut.
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:40 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by aviatordave View Post
Here is the 1:1 drawing of the control horn. I made it just a little bigger which should be better. You can use either 1/32" lite ply or 1/16" lite ply.

Control Horn Drawing

< I didnt note it on the drawing, but you need only 1 base for the horn >

Click on the link and a PDF drawing should appear.

Dave
I used some thin (but sturdy) metal and using your template added for length the thickness of the base and the 6mm material and put a 90 degree at the base. I should be able to make a slit in the material and slide it through and glue in place.

What do you think? I want an honest opinion of course. Do I need a sleeve through the 6mm?
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:18 PM
  #178  
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Looks good Denny. Just GG that and it will be better than the wood. I dont think a sleeve is necessary since the GG is pretty tough stuff.

That full res pic looked great to me, I didnt notice, but is that S7 IR controlled? Hopefully it uses the same battery as the S6 so you will have an extra.

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Old 03-15-2007, 07:25 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by SAVS View Post
I put together the tail sections last night but I am not to pleased with how my tape and rod hinge came out. The tape just does not hold the two pieces in line with each other. I used the fiberglass rods that came in the box since I had them left over from the wings. I think the diameter is too small maybe. I also noticed that when you bolt on the stick it is in the center so if the rod is on top (like in the manual) the tail piece (I promise I will start to remember the real names soon) would be off center. I placed the rod on the bottom and notched the tail for the nuts so I could center it. I guess as long as everything is centered and I get the COG right all should be well.
Hmm If your elevators and rudder are straight then the tape should keep it close and tight. If you want I can video the movement I get and see if its the same as yours.

I mounted the Horizontal Stab to the top of the stick. I actually used the white plastic strip that came with the kit as well as the 2 small bolts. I then mounted the vertical stab directly over the bolts (made a notch so it would sit flush over each bolt head) - to add strength I also used triangle balsa stock along the edge. If you want I can add more pics later tonight.

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Old 03-15-2007, 07:32 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by herk_1 View Post
Dave, how did you attach the wheels to the carbon-fiber landing gear? Is there an axle kit or something? I need to get a more stable gear for my Wing Dragon 4, the flimsy gear on it just has a mind of its own. I just did my first AP video with the plane (link here), and right at the end after an otherwise nice approach and landing, as soon as the plane touches down it jerks to the right 90 degrees and runs off the pavement.
Sorry herk....I didnt see your post :o

Flyer1 is correct, a 4-40 bolt and an elastic stop nut (so it dont come loose. Your hardware or LHS should have them)

an elastic stop nut (thats what we call them here in farm land ) is just the same as a 4-40 nut but has a small area of plastic that gets threaded to prevent it from coming loose.

Dave
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Old 03-16-2007, 02:15 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by aviatordave View Post
Looks good Denny. Just GG that and it will be better than the wood. I dont think a sleeve is necessary since the GG is pretty tough stuff.

That full res pic looked great to me, I didnt notice, but is that S7 IR controlled? Hopefully it uses the same battery as the S6 so you will have an extra.

Dave
Same IR function, battery, charger, SD Card, size, just a few more bells and whistles. I went with a no questions asked warrenty for an extra $15/year. It covers parts and labor and any dammage except water. You know what that means' Yep, in the water next time .

I will be glueing the horns in today. I will get a pic up later...Denny
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Old 03-16-2007, 02:21 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by aviatordave View Post
Hmm If your elevators and rudder are straight then the tape should keep it close and tight. If you want I can video the movement I get and see if its the same as yours.

I mounted the Horizontal Stab to the top of the stick. I actually used the white plastic strip that came with the kit as well as the 2 small bolts. I then mounted the vertical stab directly over the bolts (made a notch so it would sit flush over each bolt head) - to add strength I also used triangle balsa stock along the edge. If you want I can add more pics later tonight.

Dave
The elevators and rudder are pretty straight, nothing that some trim can not make dead on. I did the same mounting for the stab and used some left over CF rod in the 90 between the stab and rudder. I might be able to use the rod/tube for the servo rods if I mount the horns right. It would seem to make sense. You have a pic posted of the stabalization (balsa) you used which gave me the idea. I attached the pics..Denny
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Last edited by SAVS; 03-16-2007 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:39 AM
  #183  
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Default Need just a bit more help...The manual stinks!

Dave, can I get a picture of the fuselage with the winds removed please. Just like the last one below. I can not figure out the placement of the battery mount, servo mount, ESC, and the such. The manual gives 2 differnet location depending on the battery. I am using a Power Lipo 2 cell 1050 7.4. All the rest of the power gear is stock. The battery does not fit in the mount area as it is too wide, but I will deal with that.

I added some LG photos, I used the same light metal that I used for the horns and mounted it to the stock LG mount. I mounted it with 4 "Self adhesive vinyl bumpers 1/2" and 2 bolts w/lock washers. It is sturdy, light, and I may use the length of the bolts for the camera mount.

So what do you think the chances are of the stock motor lifting my S7?
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Old 03-17-2007, 04:54 AM
  #184  
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You'll want to move one of the two flat mounts back between the wing mounts, in front of the servo mounts. It'll hold the receiver.
The one left in front is where you'll locate your ESC. Servo mounting is really a personal preference; you can mount them right where the mount is now, if you like. Mine are mounted all the way to the rear just in front of the fuselage joiner to make the pushrods as short (and therefore as stiff) as possible. You need really light servos for this, though.
The battery is mounted under the fuse tube directly behind the motor. Honestly, with a 2-cell LiPo you might run into some problems lifting your camera with the stock gearbox/motor. It might be a good idea to invest in a good 3-cell just in case (and eventually go brushless).
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Old 03-17-2007, 12:51 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Flyer 1 View Post
You'll want to move one of the two flat mounts back between the wing mounts, in front of the servo mounts. It'll hold the receiver.
The one left in front is where you'll locate your ESC. Servo mounting is really a personal preference; you can mount them right where the mount is now, if you like. Mine are mounted all the way to the rear just in front of the fuselage joiner to make the pushrods as short (and therefore as stiff) as possible. You need really light servos for this, though.
The battery is mounted under the fuse tube directly behind the motor. Honestly, with a 2-cell LiPo you might run into some problems lifting your camera with the stock gearbox/motor. It might be a good idea to invest in a good 3-cell just in case (and eventually go brushless).
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Thank you, I will make the moves. I also have a 3 cell 2100 but here is where my newbieism' starts to show. My 3 cell's are 11.1V. Since 2 cell 7.2's came with the box I am guessing you mean 3 cell 7.2's instead of 2 cell? Also, no problem with using light servos. The ones that came in the box are tiny to say the least. I almost could not see them in the box
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Old 03-17-2007, 05:12 PM
  #186  
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Here is how I mounted my battery and reciever. Nothing fancy...just some zip ties for the reciever and some velcro straps (from wallyworld) for the battery. You'll have to figure out the best placement for proper balance.

Dave

<edit - I didnt bother using the GWS mounts for the battery & receiver. And..I like your Landing gear set up. Can you get some measurements ( ie. axle to top height and spread) There is supposedly a global shortage on Carbon Fiber and we may not be able to get the Landing gear that I used anymore. - thanks>
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:31 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by aviatordave View Post
Here is how I mounted my battery and reciever. Nothing fancy...just some zip ties for the reciever and some velcro straps (from wallyworld) for the battery. You'll have to figure out the best placement for proper balance.

Dave

<edit - I didnt bother using the GWS mounts for the battery & receiver. And..I like your Landing gear set up. Can you get some measurements ( ie. axle to top height and spread) There is supposedly a global shortage on Carbon Fiber and we may not be able to get the Landing gear that I used anymore. - thanks>
Here are some pics of it together, well kind of. My cog is about an inch back even after adding the S7. Since I already cut the servo wires and they go through the rear wing mount and I have it bumped up to it already I may have to do the servo wire mod . I guess I could go with a 3 cell lipo instead of the 2 cell but then I am using the stock motor and it might not fly (or maybe it will?).

Here is the link to the LG. 12" wide X 5.5" high, comes assembled w/wheels that are 2" high.

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFL2255

The camera mount is temp just so I could see the weight and balance since I was going by brial and to see how shock mounted I could get it. Not bad for just an hour. Can't adjust the angle much though.

Looking at the "top" pic does the distance from the motor to the wing, and wing to the tail look ok? I have not seen any pictures that show any real measurements, not even the manual...Denny
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Old 03-18-2007, 12:24 AM
  #188  
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It's looking good.
One thing I'd recommend - slide your camera back to directly underneath your CG. It'll still be close enough to the gear to shoot through them without interfering with the shot (at least it should).
Then, add that 3 cell LiPo! I'm pretty certain you'll need it (and it's additional weight). This will allow you to fly with/without the camera without worrying about the CG.
Your 2 cell simply LOOKS too light. You really need some serious weight hanging there, and the 3-cell you mention you already have (2100) should fill the bill nicely.
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Old 03-18-2007, 12:40 AM
  #189  
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Denny - Page 6 of the instruction manual...

Top left picture (2.5) shows 145 mm from front of stick to wing holder. (I think thats around 5 in)

Its written in engRish, I do get a kick out of some of the phrases in this book

Thanks for the info on the landing gear, I'm going to get one. One thing I noticed is you have your control rods in the top hole of the horn. this is fine if you like the control deflection, but if you desire more control throw- move them towards the base and also you can move them farther out on the servo for more throw as well.

A 3 cell will be like adding a turbo to your brushed motor and it will work for a bit then prob die.

I flew my SSOS about 7 times today to get ALL the bugs worked out. We had an indoor flying session and I must say that it was a blast to fly. I lapped the stock SS's about 100 times Now I have it flying at 2/3rds throttle hands off. The faster you go, the more the wing lifts, so its give and take...

I also saw a brown SS today (actually its kind of like a golden brown), the guy put ailerons in his just like Flyer did...it was pretty cool and he could maneuver better than the regular SS's.

Dave
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Old 03-18-2007, 01:20 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by aviatordave View Post
We had an indoor flying session and I must say that it was a blast to fly. I lapped the stock SS's about 100 times Now I have it flying at 2/3rds throttle hands off. The faster you go, the more the wing lifts, so its give and take...

I also saw a brown SS today (actually its kind of like a golden brown), the guy put ailerons in his just like Flyer did...it was pretty cool and he could maneuver better than the regular SS's.

Dave
What sort of indoor environment, ie., gymnasium, ?
The only area I have locally is the High School gym for after-hour use. I swear it's smaller than it was when I was there (thank God that's over). Not sure the SS would handle that small a space or not.
It's a single basketball court.
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:27 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Flyer 1 View Post
What sort of indoor environment, ie., gymnasium, ?
The only area I have locally is the High School gym for after-hour use. I swear it's smaller than it was when I was there (thank God that's over). Not sure the SS would handle that small a space or not.
It's a single basketball court.
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Ya, a gym would be kinda tight unless you had a 24 inch 5-10 oz profile foamie. Here is the web page for the Arena we were in
http://216.15.238.56/USCC/

off topic - but here is me flying my 5 oz 3D plane in the Arena

Indoor fun off topic video from December

Dave
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:28 AM
  #192  
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Dave,
Thanks for a great SS build thread. I picked up a lot of new ideas!
I have a question about the camera mount. I noticed that you have rounded the ends that ride in the foam. When I looked at the PDF file the ends are flat with a notch cut in the front side. Have you tried it both ways and if so did you find one works better than the other? Are the ends rounded so that the mount can rock back and forth to keep the camera level?
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:45 AM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by jazzman2 View Post
Dave,
Thanks for a great SS build thread. I picked up a lot of new ideas!
I have a question about the camera mount. I noticed that you have rounded the ends that ride in the foam. When I looked at the PDF file the ends are flat with a notch cut in the front side. Have you tried it both ways and if so did you find one works better than the other? Are the ends rounded so that the mount can rock back and forth to keep the camera level?
Boy..I had to go back and look...lol

Ya, I just notched the front only. This is because when I had it rounded it would not sit straight...kind of like it was reclining...so I opted to keep the rear at 90 degrees and that solved the problem. The picture is from my first attempt, but the plans are what works and is what I am using now. If you build it and see some better alternatives let us know. Brainstorming works best for us all.

Hope that helps,

Dave
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Old 03-18-2007, 03:21 AM
  #194  
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Thanks Dave,
I'm building the mount and that info. helps. Just a thought ... if the mount was "reclining" maybe if I made the lower arm longer I might be
able to find the centre balance point and with the upper arms rounded the mount can rock back and forth to be self-leveling? Do you think this might work or would the rocking motion be too much?
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Old 03-18-2007, 03:39 AM
  #195  
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Ya it could work, give it a shot if you have enough material around to experiment with - the rubberbands kind of keep the rocking to a minimum. If you have Visio I can forward you the drawing to modify or after you make changes let me know and I can make up a new drawing for download.

Dave


<oops...I see your new to WF! Welcome Jazzman2 !!>
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Old 03-18-2007, 03:47 AM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by Flyer 1 View Post
It's looking good.
One thing I'd recommend - slide your camera back to directly underneath your CG. It'll still be close enough to the gear to shoot through them without interfering with the shot (at least it should).
Then, add that 3 cell LiPo! I'm pretty certain you'll need it (and it's additional weight). This will allow you to fly with/without the camera without worrying about the CG.
Your 2 cell simply LOOKS too light. You really need some serious weight hanging there, and the 3-cell you mention you already have (2100) should fill the bill nicely.
Flyer
I put the camera directly under the LG so as to maybe get the cog moved up but it was not enough. I will move it under the cog as you suggested. For the battery, I only have a couple of 3 cell 11.1 lipos. Can I use them with the other stock power equipment I have? The battery that came with it is a 7.2. Wouldn't I have to change a couple of other components too? (Power Newbie!)
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Old 03-18-2007, 03:52 AM
  #197  
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I'm not 100% sure about the LVC on the lipo with a brushed ESC...

post your question here:

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17

I've never ran brushed motors...just brushless

dave
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Old 03-18-2007, 03:56 AM
  #198  
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I think I'll build it both ways just to see. I'll let you know if it works. My only concern is how to dampen the swinging motion. Askman and TaSaJaRa both use extra foam ... I'll have to see how this can be worked into this mount.
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Old 03-18-2007, 04:01 AM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by aviatordave View Post
Denny - Page 6 of the instruction manual...

Top left picture (2.5) shows 145 mm from front of stick to wing holder. (I think thats around 5 in)

Its written in engRish, I do get a kick out of some of the phrases in this book

Thanks for the info on the landing gear, I'm going to get one. One thing I noticed is you have your control rods in the top hole of the horn. this is fine if you like the control deflection, but if you desire more control throw- move them towards the base and also you can move them farther out on the servo for more throw as well.

A 3 cell will be like adding a turbo to your brushed motor and it will work for a bit then prob die.

I flew my SSOS about 7 times today to get ALL the bugs worked out. We had an indoor flying session and I must say that it was a blast to fly. I lapped the stock SS's about 100 times Now I have it flying at 2/3rds throttle hands off. The faster you go, the more the wing lifts, so its give and take...

I also saw a brown SS today (actually its kind of like a golden brown), the guy put ailerons in his just like Flyer did...it was pretty cool and he could maneuver better than the regular SS's.

Dave
Yea' after looking at that manual for the last two weeks I am getting better at the new language but I did miss the 2.5 stuff. I will make the adjustments. Should I move the control rods now when I am still a 2 flight EZ newbie or wait until I become a pilot? I have the servo rods at a 90 from the fusealodge sticking straight out. I will make that the center position (trim) (if possible) which should give it good movement with low rod stress.

Cool you got to fly today. I don't know of any indoor around here and it is very windy still so I am grounded. If the weather behaves I am going to visit a club tomorrow a couple of towns away. I have emailed the president a couple of time but they seem old and unfriendly (old is ok' as I just got my AARP card). I get the "Use-4-&-No More" feeling from him. Each time I contact him he reads me the rules of the road and la-la-la...read the rules on the website...we have rules...I went through the photos of the club site and I did not see anyone under 900 years old.

I hope none of this is the case as I would love to be mentored by an experienced pilot.
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Old 03-18-2007, 04:07 AM
  #200  
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SAVS,
If you are using a stock 300 motor the 3slipos will kill the motor. The stock 400 ( black gear case) works fine on 3s and with G gear and 12 x 6 prop will produce about 21 oz of thrust.
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