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Protech Skystar II, trainer explained.

Old 01-13-2009, 09:03 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 169
Default Protech Skystar II, trainer explained.

Despite the fact that I can fly reasonably well, I always like to have a trainer airplane to mess around with. I had a home brew Telemaster, but that was built so light that it was floating in the littlest of wind, and when it landed less then sloftly, I had to fix it again. So after the last crash, I bought an ARF trainer, one my club members and instructors are fond of, the Protech (Belgian company) Skystar II. Itís a good trainer, really cheap, and with a little extra power and enlarged rudder throws, itís a lot of fun for the intermediate flyer, like me, too.

What you need:
Plane: Ä 59,95
Motor: US$ 42.95
ESC: US$ 43.89
LiPo: US$ 74.39
Prop: US$ 3.38
Servos: US$ 5.82 (you need 3.)
Charger: US$ 37.99
Epoxy glue: US$ 5.99
Thin CA glue: US$ 2.49
Battery connectors: US$ 5.95
Aileron servo extension: US$ 1.65
You also need some scrap wood, S&H cost to get your stuff home, elastic bands to mount the wing, and last but not least a transmitter / receiver combo. It would make sense to order some extra LiPos, so you can make more flights, a bigger (more expensive) charger like the Accucel-8, and some spare props.

Hereís a little report on the build. I didnít do a full report, only an addition to the otherwise complete and clear instructions provided with the kit. The manual comes in Dutch, English and German.

The box:

Content of box on table:

If this is your First time glueing CO hinges, pay attention. The manual is correct, but thereís a little addition. First, find the hinge slots. They are there, but sometimes difficult to locate. Clear them with a scalpel blade:

Then, stick the hinge into the wing / stab / tail half way, with the slot in the hinge perpendicular to the rudder-hinge movement. Push through a pin. This pin makes sure that when you push the rudder on, the hinge doesnít disappear into the wing / stab / tail.

Push the rudders on. Then remove the pins. Then itís time to glue (no glue used before). With the rudder manually pushed open in itís maximum defection, saturate each hinge with 4 drops of fresh, very thin CA. I almost always do this job with a fresh new bottle, just to be sure.

Then, removing the covering from the areas that will get glued. This is done as per the manual, but the covering is stuck on firm (which is good, but a pain when removing). So, after making the cuts. just a covering iron, or a regular iron with an old T-shirt wrapped around it to protect it, to heat the part you will remove:

It safes a lot of time with heat, otherwise your messing with the scalpel blade for a long time.


I cut a hatch in the nose, to get access to the batteries. This is not necessary, you can change the packs by removing the wings, but this is easier on the field. Simply cut with the scalpel. I will make the hatch mechanism later.

Since this is a plane meant for a methanol engine, we need to modify the front to accept the electric motor. I cut in both sides of the motor support, about 10mm. The cuts are parallel to and perpendicular to the motor support, not to the planeís centre line. This is to maintain the side thrust.

Does it fit:

Then I made the new bulkhead. Itís 50mm high, 84mm wide and 6mm thick. The left hand cut-out is 24mm wide and 9mm high, the centre piece is 33 mm wide. The right hand cut-out is again 9mm high. The motor centre will not be in the planeís centre line, but in the middle of the centre piece, so at 24 + (33/2) = 40,5mm from the left side of the new bulk head. I also drilled the holes for the motor axle and the mouning, I will use the mounting cross that came with the motor:

Voila, done. Glue in with epoxy. There will be some additional bracing, but the idea is clear.

Assembly proceeds as per the manual. Itís all clear and correct. However, screwing in the steel end of the control rods takes a while, and can be sped up by using a drill. Clamp in the steel bit, turn it in (slowly) and youíre done quickly:

Some bits I will use for the battery hatch:

Trail fitting the motor:

Second view:

I put in the airleron servo backwards, because the control rods were too short. Now they are too long, but cutting them of is easier then cutting them longer:

I fitted the ESC in the bottom of the tank area:

Itís held on by double sided tape.

I then marked the CG points on the wing, so that they are about 15mm outside of the fuse:

I then screwed in two VERY SMALL screws, so I can feel the CG points and balance the plane on my fingers:

Trail fitting the wing, and testing CG:

With the LiPo against the (old) bulkhead, CG is perfect. I still need to add the battery hatch and battery tray, so some weight will be added to the front. But there is enough space in the fuse behind the pack, and the final clearance between the bulkhead and pack will be filled with a strong foam.

Iíll report back when I have the thing ready, and probably flown if the weather holds.


HugoW is offline  
Old 01-13-2009, 10:43 AM
Don Sims
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 13,594

Excellent report Hugo, looking forward to reading about your flights.
Don Sims is offline  
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