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CNC Aluminum main blade grip causing flybar problem.

Old 03-15-2011, 03:45 AM
  #1  
Diatheke
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Default CNC Aluminum main blade grip causing flybar problem.

I replaced the stock plastic main blade grips with the Microheli CNC aluminum version but the rotor head linkage fits WAY too tight on the ball joints causing the flybar to have NO play whatsoever - I have to push the flybar with significant force to even make it move up or down.
Suggestions?
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:45 AM
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Diatheke
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Oh... thanks from a newbie by the way!

These are the two parts I am referring to... the linkages snap WAY too tight onto the ball joints.

.

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Old 03-15-2011, 04:46 AM
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kenchiroalpha
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Hi
Welcome aboard
Im pleased to meet you
You could try lightly sanding the balls and the holes on the linkages to remove any burrs or imperfections
Read the tips here they are for coax helis but ive found they work quite well for FPs as well
Ive used the tips there on all my helis and they all fly perfectly now
http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/toilet-bowl-effect.html
Hope this is of help
Take care
Yours Hank
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:14 PM
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Diatheke
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Thank you !
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Old 04-01-2011, 07:41 PM
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Nimble1
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I found the MH blade grips to fit to tight but never could pinpoint where. It was a major cause of TBE but they did loosen up after a while to where I could fly it. I eventually took them off and went back to stock and can fly it much better.
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Old 05-06-2011, 02:45 AM
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Thewyzardofdogz
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Question: have you ever lubricated your MSR?

I got my Microheli blade grips last week and the ball joints do seem tight (just like the swashplate) but it's not the ball joints that are the problem at all - it's the feathering shaft. That's right, if you take some silicone spray (Liquid Wrench) and hit your feathering shaft, you'll be good to go. The feathering shaft is where the blade grips are binding, not the ball joints. Unhook the connecting rods and try to move the blade grips side to side - I'll bet it's tight. For the record I installed my brand new blade grips and a brand new flybar and a brand new swashplate and used all new connecting rods and there is no binding at all - since I lubed the feathering shaft. I also lubed the bearings in the swashplate as well as the upper and lower frame bearings and you wouldn't believe the difference. The entire rotor assembly moves 2-3 times more freely than before. Some people seem to think that most TBE problems can be solved by sanding the ball joints. Try some lubrication instead - your parts will most certainly last longer. Sand the ball joints - what a laugh.
Oh yeah, and the Microheli grips do not require the installation of the brass washers so if you somehow managed to install those, remove them.
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Old 05-06-2011, 02:55 AM
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kenchiroalpha
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Originally Posted by Thewyzardofdogz View Post
Question: have you ever lubricated your MSR?

I got my Microheli blade grips last week and the ball joints do seem tight (just like the swashplate) but it's not the ball joints that are the problem at all - it's the feathering shaft. That's right, if you take some silicone spray (Liquid Wrench) and hit your feathering shaft, you'll be good to go. The feathering shaft is where the blade grips are binding, not the ball joints. Unhook the connecting rods and try to move the blade grips side to side - I'll bet it's tight. For the record I installed my brand new blade grips and a brand new flybar and a brand new swashplate and used all new connecting rods and there is no binding at all - since I lubed the feathering shaft. I also lubed the bearings in the swashplate as well as the upper and lower frame bearings and you wouldn't believe the difference. The entire rotor assembly moves 2-3 times more freely than before. Some people seem to think that most TBE problems can be solved by sanding the ball joints. Try some lubrication instead - your parts will most certainly last longer. Sand the ball joints - what a laugh.
Oh yeah, and the Microheli grips do not require the installation of the brass washers so if you somehow managed to install those, remove them.
Hi
You should never use a silicon spray as they attract grime, dust and dirt and in the long run will cause more problems then solve them
You should use dry graphite only
Also many of us have used the tips found here for many years including sanding lightly the ball joints and have found that they work quite well
http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/toilet-bowl-effect.html
Theres nothing humerous about them and to scoff at them is just your loss of good and usefull info
I will stick with a proven fact over a what if or maybe
Take care dear friend
Yours Hank
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:07 AM
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Thewyzardofdogz
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What do they use to lube the bearings at the factory, Hank? Some kind of dirty grease and certainly not graphite. Did you know that dirt does not stick to silicone? Seems kind of strange that my microheli blade grips were really tight - even with no connecting rods attached to them. Feathering shaft maybe? Definitely? What good would sanding the ball joints have done in that case Hank? Absolutely nothing but wear the parts out. Not one single instance of my TBE issues was caused by ball joints with burrs or imperfections. How can a piece that is precision cut by computer, precision guided by laser have burrs and imperfections? Come on.
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:15 AM
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kenchiroalpha
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Originally Posted by Thewyzardofdogz View Post
What do they use to lube the bearings at the factory, Hank? Some kind of dirty grease and certainly not graphite. Did you know that dirt does not stick to silicone? Seems kind of strange that my microheli blade grips were really tight - even with no connecting rods attached to them. Feathering shaft maybe? Definitely? What good would sanding the ball joints have done in that case Hank? Absolutely nothing but wear the parts out. Not one single instance of my TBE issues was caused by ball joints with burrs or imperfections. How can a piece that is precision cut by computer, precision guided by laser have burrs and imperfections? Come on.
Hi
Granted but im not talking about fancy high end upgraded parts that even then can have burrs or im perfections but the stock ones where most people have the problem TBE that im trying to help them with
Im happy that yours dont need any help or repairs but do not deride the tips for others that may need them
Take care dear friend
Yours Hank
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:35 AM
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Thewyzardofdogz
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What do you think I've been doing here Hank? That's right, posting the solutions that have worked for me. You post the same generic solution for everybody's problem and I'm posting my solutions - none of which jive with what you're saying. And you don't seem to like it too much. Feel free to post whatever advice you like and I shall do the same. This thread is about a new set of non-stock blade grips that are too tight. MY first thought, when I experienced this phenomenon first-hand was that the ball joints were too tight but after I disconnected them from the grips I noticed the grips were still very tight. So I, being the clever cat that I am, deduced that since there were no connecting rods attached to the blade grips, yet they were still tight, that the only other place that the brand new blade grips could possibly be binding was the feathering shaft - and I was right. What if "Diatheke" sanded down the balls and still had the problem? Oh well, must be the 5 in 1. I am not telling people to not heed your advice. But I am trying to let others know that there may be other less drastic solutions to problems. You're a good guy, Hank. Very helpful. You tried helping me with my problems and I thank you again for that. I've got all my MSR problems ironed out (believe me, they were really bad) and I wish to help others as you did I.

A friend,

Rich
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:53 AM
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kenchiroalpha
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Originally Posted by Thewyzardofdogz View Post
What do you think I've been doing here Hank? That's right, posting the solutions that have worked for me. You post the same generic solution for everybody's problem and I'm posting my solutions - none of which jive with what you're saying. And you don't seem to like it too much. Feel free to post whatever advice you like and I shall do the same. This thread is about a new set of non-stock blade grips that are too tight. MY first thought, when I experienced this phenomenon first-hand was that the ball joints were too tight but after I disconnected them from the grips I noticed the grips were still very tight. So I, being the clever cat that I am, deduced that since there were no connecting rods attached to the blade grips, yet they were still tight, that the only other place that the brand new blade grips could possibly be binding was the feathering shaft - and I was right. What if "Diatheke" sanded down the balls and still had the problem? Oh well, must be the 5 in 1. I am not telling people to not heed your advice. But I am trying to let others know that there may be other less drastic solutions to problems. You're a good guy, Hank. Very helpful. You tried helping me with my problems and I thank you again for that. I've got all my MSR problems ironed out (believe me, they were really bad) and I wish to help others as you did I.

A friend,

Rich
Hi Rich
Then were on the same page and i never take offense at any one
I do tend to take things a little to seriously at times though and if i came off as brusque,abrupt or combative i do apologize
And i do post those same tips as over the years ive found that they are the most common fixes to the problems (TBE) at hand
Also ive used the same tips on all my helis and they all fly very without any TBE, at last count i have 45 of them in various sizes from UM to 600 size and Coax FP and CP
Thanks for the vote of confidence its most appreciated btw
Take care dear friend
Yours Hank
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:39 AM
  #12  
Thewyzardofdogz
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Cheers brother. Now let's get that darned TBE fixed. TBE can be beaten.
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