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super cub to a warbird?

Old 12-22-2010, 09:06 PM
  #1  
corvette
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Default super cub to a warbird?

I started flying about 3 years ago on a aerobird challenger. About 8 months ago I got super cub given to me and have been flying that ever since. Wow! Wish I had started on the cub! Anyway, I bought a Parkzone Spitfire about a year ago thinking I was ready-and I was not! Well, $70 worth of repairs later and it has been sitting around. I didn't want to destroy it, so figured I would wait until I got more experience. I can handle the cub now and seldom "crash". I also put a lipo battery and different prop on the cub and it has all kinds of power! I have learned how to use the surplus of power in turns, dives, take-offs, etc. Also learned what a "ground loop" was the hard way-at full power the cub will almost hoover! Is it safe to assume the Spitfire would be a move up or would a "intermediate" plane be a better bet? Flying with ailerons is quite different I know, but what would be the bigest difference between and the cub such as turning, etc?
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Old 12-23-2010, 12:09 AM
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Well, you turn entirely different on a 4ch than you do on a 3ch. On a 3ch you push the stick to the left and the plane turns left. Not so in a 4ch. On a 4ch plane if you push the stick to the left the plane rolls left. So you turn by rolling the plane on it's side, and using up elevator to turn, then opposite aileron to level the plane back out. So turning becomes more of a process then a simple action. It is more difficult, and unlike rudder is not safe to do at extra slow speeds. (because the plane falls to quickly when it's on it's side at slow speeds) The upside is that you turn FAR faster than you do with rudder, and it opens you up to a world of tricks you could never do on a 3ch. A spitfire is a difficult plane to fly (even more so than most warbirds) and does not handle well at slow speeds. Oh, and to put speed difference into perspective, a real J3 cub is about an 80 HP plane, and a real spitfire is a 1000 HP plane. So I would wait till you are at a more intermediate stage to fly that plane. But when you are ready to fly it, I would highly recommend upgrading it to lipo/brushless. For your next plane I would recommend the ParkZone Stinson Reliant SR-10, or the Flyzone Cessna 182. The old Cessna will be fine, you don't need the select scale model, but the flaps on it would help slow the landings. But before you get your first 4ch plane, if you don't already have one, get a sim. I'm sure you are going to hear lots of recommendations to move up to a PZ T-28, but I would stick to the SR-10 or Cessna. The T-28 was my second plane after a skyfly. I was pretty good, but the T-28 was still quite the hand full. My heart was racing and my palms were sweating, but I did manage to land it in one piece. You would be more comfortable flying it as a third plane. I hope this helps.
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:09 AM
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corvette
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Thanks for the advise! When I got the spitfire everyone said it was the easiest to fly of all the warbirds. Of course now I have been told differently! One thing I noticed about this hobby is that no one seems to agree on plane selection! I bought a aerobird swift about 2 years ago cause the guys at the hobby store said it was an Ieasy flying plane. It wasn't for me! After numerous crashes and rebuilds, I only managed about 45 seconds of white knuckle flight! This is kind of out there but I found some info on installing a functional rudder on the spitfire. I have a Futaba radio, esc, and receiver that I was thinking of swaping into the spitfire and making the rudder functional. If I did that, could I use the rudder for turns and keep the ailerons fixed until I am comfortable flying it? And I do like the suggestion of a sim. I play on the one at the local hobby store and I can see where that would be invaluable! I did purchase a lipo for the spitfire a while back (it was on sale and I couldn't pass it up) but with the standard battery it never seemed to have much power. I suspect the charger that came with it was faulty; even the first flight with it the battery died after about 3 minutes. The 2 flights I tried with it all ended the same-quick hand launch, a slight climb, then a "graceful" right turn into the ground. It seemed like I had no control over it. I wasn't sure if it was me or the plane so I got the Futaba and stuff for $20 from ebay and it all works perfectly!
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Old 12-23-2010, 04:48 AM
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Before you fly the War Bird, I would suggest that you buy and fly a profile foam plane first, the cub is docile compaired to the War bird, the war bird should be a 3rd or 4th plane, as they are not forgiving at all, the profile plane will be the perfect transition to a Warbird, you will get a lot of great flight training with a profile plane and they are easy and fast to fix with 5 min epoxy, Take care, Chellie

PS. give the profile plane 5 degrees of down thrust, no right or left thrust is needed. and it will fly in 25 MPH wind with 5 degrees of down thrust.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz5ilV8jQRM&feature=user[/media]

Last edited by CHELLIE; 12-24-2010 at 12:30 AM.
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:07 AM
  #5  
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http://www.hobby-lobby.com/yak_55_ae..._2226_prd1.htm
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:47 AM
  #6  
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You absolutely do not want to secure the ailerons and fly by rudder. That is guaranteed to fail. Rudders are necessary on planes with dihedral to turn.
Remove the dihedral and the rudder becomes an entirely different control for scale type planes. With ailerons you don't need a rudder, but it can be useful for some kinds of flying and ground control.

Most of my scale type planes with flat wings, ailerons, elevator and rudder will kind of partly roll to one side and dive abruptly on a rudder only turn. Pretty ugly and useless when used on it's own.

For the flat profile planes Chellie is suggesting the overly large rudder actually functions appropriately, but so do the other controls. They do not have to be flown as 3D, you can fly them fairly normally, but slowly. They can be good trainers once you already know the basics and will help you learn left thumb/rudder control.
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Old 12-23-2010, 03:29 PM
  #7  
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Flydiver is right. That would be a disaster. I agree with Chellie a profile plane would be good in the way that their very easy to repair, but most profiles are 3d planes. Finding an easy high wing 4ch trainer would be difficult. Unless of course you built your own. It may sound scary, but it gives you a lot of good experience, and you will always know just how to fix it after a crash.
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:01 PM
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Thanks everyone! I was looking at the yak 55 a while back. I was flying and a kid came up and we started talking. He said he flew to and he quickly ran home and brought back a yak55. Boy did I feel out-classed! He was doing some crazy stuff with it and it looked like a lot of fun! I was really impressed with the low speed capibility of it. Here in Colorado I live right at the base of the foothills and wind is always an issue. Its always blowing to some degree and constantly changing directions. The yak did pretty well even with the slight breeze that day. (I have quickly learned when too much wind is TOO MUCH WIND!) I think I will keep the spitfire on a shelf for a while and purchase the Yak.
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:21 PM
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Profiles can be great aileron trainers. I used to buy those HL Yak 55's in batches when they went on sale. They can generally be fixed twice once they crash

Keep the speed down and set the deflections low to start.
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:44 PM
  #10  
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2 things if you want to go the profile route:

1. They have HUGE control surfaces to make them maneuverable at slow speeds. This makes them VERY twitchy for new-to-3D fliers. Turn the rates WAY down to start.

2. The HL Yak is fine (I had one). BUT....it's depron and depron is fragile. Crash it > it breaks. Crash badly > breaks to bits. Not hard to fix though.

Consider going to one of the EPP Yak types-MUCH more durable, still easy to fix:
EPP SloYak
Extensive plans. [tallflyer] will cut and ship a kit if you want.

or

EPPYak55 ... build guide, videos, free plans
Kit builders are listed in the first posting if you don't want to do the cutting yourself. Extensive plans and support.
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Old 12-24-2010, 12:34 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by corvette View Post
Thanks everyone! I was looking at the yak 55 a while back. I was flying and a kid came up and we started talking. He said he flew to and he quickly ran home and brought back a yak55. Boy did I feel out-classed! He was doing some crazy stuff with it and it looked like a lot of fun! I was really impressed with the low speed capibility of it. Here in Colorado I live right at the base of the foothills and wind is always an issue. Its always blowing to some degree and constantly changing directions. The yak did pretty well even with the slight breeze that day. (I have quickly learned when too much wind is TOO MUCH WIND!) I think I will keep the spitfire on a shelf for a while and purchase the Yak.
The profile Yak with 5 degrees of motor down thrust, will fly in 25 MPH wind, its the same as my Mavrick foam profile plane.


Rusty:
Chellie let me fly her Mavrick Mk 2 this morning - what a plane!
It was 24 deg. and 25 MPH wind and we had a great time.
Can't believe how your plane handles the wind.
I am ordering TWO planes right now!
Richard Apple Valley, CA


http://www.rc-products.net/mavrick-comments.asp




http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30651
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Old 12-24-2010, 12:58 AM
  #12  
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power system for the Yak, Remove and Replace the Motor radial mount and add epoxy where it slides together, that will prevent the motor from ever wanting to turn in the mount and breaking the motor wires,a common problem with bell motors, also add a little epoxy to the wires coming out of the motor, epoxy them to the winding, that prevents them from vibrating and breaking, dont get any epoxy on the maganets, cover the magnets with masking tape, dont get any epoxy on the rear motor bearing too this little trick will make the motor last a long long time, also, slip the prop saver on the motor shaft, push it back all the way to the bell, and cut the motor shaft with 1/8" of the motor shaft sticking out of the prop saver, that will keep the motor shaft from bending being shorter, hope that helps, chellie

1. 2408-21 tower pro motor
2. SF 7x6 prop
3. 25 to 30 amp esc
4. 1300mah 3 cell lipo 25-30 C
5. 3 HXT 9 Gram Servos or tp servo
6. prop saver 3mm

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...or-with/Detail

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...-25C-EZ/Detail

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ers-TWO/Detail

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...r-3.0mm/Detail

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...-30-Amp/Detail

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Tell Jeff at Heads Up Rc that Chellie sent you LOL

Last edited by CHELLIE; 12-25-2010 at 03:59 AM.
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Old 12-24-2010, 04:53 PM
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Great suggestions! I went to the LHS and was looking at some yesterday. They have a great planes yak 55 foamie for $40. They also had a carbon fiber, high tech looking one (can't remember the name) for $150 that they highly recommended. Can't see spending that much on a first 3D flyer though.
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Old 12-24-2010, 05:36 PM
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Yeah if you get a 3d like the yak be SURE you turn the servo movement down a ton.
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Old 12-25-2010, 12:38 AM
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You don't want a $150 first 3D plane. You WILL trash it.
Repeat---you WILL trash it. Expect it. Part of the learning curve.
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Old 12-25-2010, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by corvette View Post
Great suggestions! I went to the LHS and was looking at some yesterday. They have a great planes yak 55 foamie for $40. They also had a carbon fiber, high tech looking one (can't remember the name) for $150 that they highly recommended. Can't see spending that much on a first 3D flyer though.
My Mavrick profile plane in the video is going on 3 years old, its been thrashed big Time and its still going strong, a llittle 5 min epoxy, and I am out flying again in no time if i break it make a pattern of your yak profile plane out of thin card board incase you break it, so you can make a spare part for it out of 6mm depron, Take care, Chellie
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Old 12-27-2010, 12:00 AM
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Default Rudder and Aileron - Which?

I spend a lot of timer on my SIM. I fly an A-10 stock and I do not use the rudder an any time. So I have control of SPEED, ELEVATOR AND AILERONS. Forget the rudder. Once you get the feel of using the combo of E and A you will be set.

Jack
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Old 12-27-2010, 06:01 AM
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Have you thought of putting ailerons on the Cub and converting it to a 4 channel?

I did just that before I got my second plane and had no problems with the transition afterwards.

I went from a 4 channel HZSC to a Balsa FW190 from Ultrafly. It was nice to be used to how ailerons behave instead of making 1000's of toothpicks out of the Ultrafly

Below is a picture of my 2nd ever RC plane, it is still in very good condition and have since moved on to bigger, faster and oilier planes.
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