Micro Sized Electric Helicopters Discuss micro and mini sized electric rc helis in here

Venom Night Ranger 3D

Old 01-02-2007, 02:26 AM
  #351  
tocix
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Smile VNR 3D PC setup

Hi guys
after finding a good web page I found that the Venom 3d controller can be hooked to the PC witha simple 4 pin Din cable found with most Graphic cards,
heres a link to help find the best alternatives
http://www.smartpropoplus.com/BlueAndGrey/default.asp

The VNR 3d controlloer works fine with Smart Pro plus and FMS Installed
just follow directions on install and walla.
Enjoy
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:46 PM
  #352  
John A
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Originally Posted by Andy V View Post
Anyway i have other issues now. 1, The heli is always wanting to go backwards. I have adjusted linkage on the servo which is now fully screwed in. The trim is full forward and when stood without the rotor moving the swashplate is forward. I have noticed when i throttle up the swash plate moves back. Is this normal? 2, I am getting a bad shake when the heli is reving up every now and again. It stops when i rev up further or input some tail thrust. Its like interference shaking then stopping. Any ideas?

Cheers

Andy
In a previous post I state all linkage lengths and how set up the head. The swash plate should be level. front to back, the servo arms should have a slight upwards angle. You will also want to make sure that the bird is balanced. If it is tail heavy it will want to move backwards also. Every one that I have talked to had to add weight to the nose to get it to balance. As for the shaking this can caused by 2 things blade balance and blade tracking. Most likely it is a tracking problem. When you put the tracking tape on the blades make sure they are in the same spot on the blades. My blades have always been spot on out of the bag so I only use the tape to set up the tracking then I remove the tape. Also remove that warning lable that is on the one blade. There will alway be a little shake untill you get the head speed up but it should smooth out.

John
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Old 01-03-2007, 12:36 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by tocix View Post
Hi guys
after finding a good web page I found that the Venom 3d controller can be hooked to the PC witha simple 4 pin Din cable found with most Graphic cards,
heres a link to help find the best alternatives
http://www.smartpropoplus.com/BlueAndGrey/default.asp

The VNR 3d controlloer works fine with Smart Pro plus and FMS Installed
just follow directions on install and walla.
Enjoy
That's cool, but I don't have that 4 pin din on my graphics card or sound card. Has any one seen a USB cable that works with XP, FMS, and this radio?

John
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:18 AM
  #354  
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I'm pretty sure it's an S-video connector. These guys http://www.milehighwings.com/usb_cables.htm sell a USB cable, but I haven't tried it. By the way, the Walkera 22E is identical to the VNR3D.

-JT
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Old 01-05-2007, 12:22 PM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by jtspin View Post
I'm pretty sure it's an S-video connector. These guys http://www.milehighwings.com/usb_cables.htm sell a USB cable, but I haven't tried it. By the way, the Walkera 22E is identical to the VNR3D.

-JT
You are right it is a S-video connecter, but I still don't have one on my PC. I checked out the web site and it doesnít have one with that connector. I already have one similar to these but it is put out by Hitec. It works great with FMS and my Hitec TX, but the TX doesnít feel the same as the NR3D. It works thatís how I learned to fly the heli. But like I said it just doesnít feel the same. I know Walkera looks the same but no one can tell me for sure it's the same. I guess I'll just have to find one and give it a try.

John
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:33 AM
  #356  
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I can tell you the Walkera 22E and the VNR3D are the same in all respects except the color. As for the cable, did you get any cable with your heli? If you got the one with an S-video connector on one end and a 9-pin D-connector on the other, you can use that to make your own. You have to replace the 9-pin connector with a 25-pin connector to connect to your parallel printer port, or the connector to connect to your sound card. As for the link I gave, scroll down until you see the cable for the "Walkera Dragonfly 22E, 35, and 36 6-ch transmitters".

-JT
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Old 01-09-2007, 10:32 PM
  #357  
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Smile

Originally Posted by John A View Post
You are right it is a S-video connecter, but I still don't have one on my PC. I checked out the web site and it doesnít have one with that connector. I already have one similar to these but it is put out by Hitec. It works great with FMS and my Hitec TX, but the TX doesnít feel the same as the NR3D. It works thatís how I learned to fly the heli. But like I said it just doesnít feel the same. I know Walkera looks the same but no one can tell me for sure it's the same. I guess I'll just have to find one and give it a try.

John
Hey john A m8 im pretty sure your local TANDY,Dick Smith or Jay car will have a Svideo to usb or try a serial port , like a printer port and aprinter cable its only 2 wires so cant be that difficult to wire up.
if all else fails send me an email and ill send ya an old printer cord or can try to wire 1 up for you.
hope this helps.
PS. kellets hobbies at liverpool are run by retarded elves from the planet nobend, I would use any other supplier in Aus of RC stuff.EXCEPT Kelletes
These guys need a wake up call when it comes to service, well they certainly wont be getting my business or referals.
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Old 01-10-2007, 04:26 AM
  #358  
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You can't make your own S-video to USB cable. That USB cable from milehighwings has a microcontroller in it. It's not just a simple cable.

-JT
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:46 PM
  #359  
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Hi to all NR3D operators,

Sorry to post this in the middle of the S video adaptor/flight sim discussion but I need some help to identify a component in the 4in1 unit. During a recent flight the earth jumped up and hit out at my bird causing the tail rotor drive motor wire to short, this resulted in the frying of a surface mount component located next to the drive power feed wires. I have attached a picture to assist with the ID.

By the way, I found all of you comments suggestions very informative and extremely helpful in stteing up and flying this particular heli. I hope that I can add and assist other Heli "junkies" in the future.

Thanks for any help you offer.

Last edited by bjsbeaver; 06-03-2007 at 06:02 AM.
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Old 01-15-2007, 11:41 PM
  #360  
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Default What the ?

Originally Posted by bjsbeaver View Post
Hi to all NR3D operators,

Sorry to post this in the middle of the S video adaptor/flight sim discussion but I need some help to identify a component in the 4in1 unit. During a

Thanks for any help you offer.
Hi Bj
m8 WTF is that
i would have returned it to venom but looks like u need new electrics dood
me thinks it fooked
i would try a a different 4 in 1 than supplied with venom i bet you will get a better flight outa the biatch
I still aint game to take my puppy out for loops yet after a stack.
so im sticking to the sim fer now, i also got me a Turmoil from great planes and aint flown it either , jeesh i hear ya say
ya me scaredy cat
anyhoo goodluck Bj get a new electris and see if its the dux nuts.
ciao ciao
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Old 01-16-2007, 01:07 AM
  #361  
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Default Dead 4in1!!

Thanx Tox,

Yeah I figured I would need new electric's. But there is no harm in try'n to repair these things especially when your on tite budget. I have repaired a few electronics items in the past with success so I thought I would give it a go.

Can anyone suggest a replacemenmt for this item apart from the original of course which I can get from the LHS, $99 AUD (ouch).

Cheers to all.

BJ
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Old 01-16-2007, 03:14 PM
  #362  
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This thread at RC Universe has a nice how to for a cable for the Walkera 22e Tx. I don't know for sure if they are identical clones, but from what I have read, Venom NR3D, Exceed Eagle 50, Walkera 22e, are all essentially the same model with a different canopy. The pictures of the transmitters sure look the same.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_36...tm.htm#3637917
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:32 PM
  #363  
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Default brass colored nut

The brass nut that holds the blue part (where the main rotors attach) of the head together keeps coming loose. Should i put some locktite or something similar on it? is it supposed to be tight and rigid all the time? or does it periodically need tightening?
Easily seen in these two pictures if you don't know the part i am talking about.
Thanks


Last edited by nayrhyno; 01-17-2007 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:23 AM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by bjsbeaver View Post
Hi to all NR3D operators,

Sorry to post this in the middle of the S video adaptor/flight sim discussion but I need some help to identify a component in the 4in1 unit. During a recent flight the earth jumped up and hit out at my bird causing the tail rotor drive motor wire to short, this resulted in the frying of a surface mount component located next to the drive power feed wires. I have attached a picture to assist with the ID.

By the way, I found all of you comments suggestions very informative and extremely helpful in stteing up and flying this particular heli. I hope that I can add and assist other Heli "junkies" in the future.

Thanks for any help you offer.
That's the FET for the tail motor. It can be replaced if your circuit board isn't too damaged.

I don't think the 4-in-1 from any other heli will work as the Tx/Rx interface is proprietary.

It looks like they've updated the 4-in-1 or maybe the Walkera one is slightly different. It's more likely they've updated it as mine has a kludged in resistor for the brushless motor upgrade and yours doesn't. You also have connections for 6 outputs and mine only has 5. Is this a fairly new helicopter?

-JT
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:24 AM
  #365  
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Originally Posted by nayrhyno View Post
This thread at RC Universe has a nice how to for a cable for the Walkera 22e Tx. I don't know for sure if they are identical clones, but from what I have read, Venom NR3D, Exceed Eagle 50, Walkera 22e, are all essentially the same model with a different canopy. The pictures of the transmitters sure look the same.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_36...tm.htm#3637917
They're identical.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:26 AM
  #366  
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Originally Posted by nayrhyno View Post
The brass nut that holds the blue part (where the main rotors attach) of the head together keeps coming loose. Should i put some locktite or something similar on it? is it supposed to be tight and rigid all the time? or does it periodically need tightening?
Easily seen in these two pictures if you don't know the part i am talking about.
Thanks
Yes, loctite it! When that nut loosens, the helicopter does some strange things. Loctite the set screw that holds the blue block to the main shaft, too. You should set the block at the top of the flat spot on the main shaft before you tighten it down.

-JT
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Old 01-17-2007, 04:22 AM
  #367  
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Default FET for NR3D

Thanx for the info JT I figuered it would be the FET for the tail rotor, the problem I have is that due to the charring I can't get any ID info of it to try and track down a replacement. If anyone opens up their 4in1 maybe they could look for me . To answer your question JT, yes this is a fairly new bird I got it late Nov 06. So far had numerous crashes but nothing damaging enough for me not to get it back in the air fairly readily. I have replaced most of the plastic balls on the ball links with brass screw in type, having a bunch of these on hand certainly makes life easier. I also shape my own blades from Balsa, this is a much cheaper than using storer bought ones especially as I am a beginner.

Cheers

BJ
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:10 PM
  #368  
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Originally Posted by nayrhyno View Post
This thread at RC Universe has a nice how to for a cable for the Walkera 22e Tx. I don't know for sure if they are identical clones, but from what I have read, Venom NR3D, Exceed Eagle 50, Walkera 22e, are all essentially the same model with a different canopy. The pictures of the transmitters sure look the same.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_36...tm.htm#3637917

Thanks for the link. I'll have to give this a try.
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:58 PM
  #369  
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Where do you find the brass screw in ball links? Do they break less often? I have only had one plastic one break so far, but I also have yet to fly more than a foot off the ground.
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Old 01-17-2007, 03:21 PM
  #370  
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Originally Posted by nayrhyno View Post
Where do you find the brass screw in ball links? Do they break less often? I have only had one plastic one break so far, but I also have yet to fly more than a foot off the ground.
I used LOSI part #LOSB1051. But any 3.8mm ball with threads should work. They are used on RC cars mostly.
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:44 AM
  #371  
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Originally Posted by bjsbeaver View Post
Thanx for the info JT I figuered it would be the FET for the tail rotor, the problem I have is that due to the charring I can't get any ID info of it to try and track down a replacement. If anyone opens up their 4in1 maybe they could look for me . To answer your question JT, yes this is a fairly new bird I got it late Nov 06. So far had numerous crashes but nothing damaging enough for me not to get it back in the air fairly readily. I have replaced most of the plastic balls on the ball links with brass screw in type, having a bunch of these on hand certainly makes life easier. I also shape my own blades from Balsa, this is a much cheaper than using storer bought ones especially as I am a beginner.

Cheers

BJ
It's a 4410 MOSFET. Several manufactures make them. By the way, I realized that my original 4-in-1 was slightly different than yours, but the replacement one I got less than two months later is the same.

-JT
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:19 AM
  #372  
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Default MOSFET Info

Thanks JT, that is a big help. Hopefully I can get my bird back into the air with out to much hassel.

Have any of you guys tried the CNC Ally upgrades for the head setup? I would be interested to know how the chopper "feels" with the upgraded parts. Still, I'm mindful that it is easy to spend up big on a bird that really isn't worth it and my money would be better invested in a better quality setup. To steal a phrase my LHS owner "It's hard to polish a lump of s**t"

Cheers to all,

BJ
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Old 01-18-2007, 01:59 PM
  #373  
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Originally Posted by bjsbeaver View Post
Thanks JT, that is a big help. Hopefully I can get my bird back into the air with out to much hassel.

Have any of you guys tried the CNC Ally upgrades for the head setup? I would be interested to know how the chopper "feels" with the upgraded parts. Still, I'm mindful that it is easy to spend up big on a bird that really isn't worth it and my money would be better invested in a better quality setup. To steal a phrase my LHS owner "It's hard to polish a lump of s**t"

Cheers to all,

BJ
Well I don't think this is a lump of s**t as he puts it. The Venom web site has them listed and are selling them as separates. From what the Venom rep. states it makes it more solid. I'm not quite sure what he meant by that. The first shipment of parts finally made it but in limited supply. They are expecting another shipment soon.
Yes, you could save your money for a new bird. But I look at it as; it is still cheaper to make my bird better (around $100) than spending another $500 or more for another bird. Sure the LHS is going to say that. He wants your money.
Just my 2 cents.

John
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:10 PM
  #374  
bjsbeaver
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Default I agree John

Your right there John, on a limited budget and also wanting to fly in areas that are easliy aceessable I think the NR3D is the way to go. The nearest official fly park for Helis and planks is an hour's drive for me, so this little bird suits my lifestyle perfectly.

Even with all the frustrations of crashing and the snappy responce of these birds I am still having a blast!! I have not seen any of the upgrade parts available in West Aus yet, but I will keep an eye out.

appreciate you comments and honesty John.

Cheers

Beaver (BJ)
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Old 01-26-2007, 06:26 AM
  #375  
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ok after burning out 2 stock motors with a 3 cell lipo pack i decided to buy the venom brushless motor and esc. I set it all up and have flown a couple of packs through it and it seems to work quite well, the only problem i have is sometimes when i go to throttle up from a complete stop the tail motor starts spinning but the main motor has a delay of a second or 2 before it starts turning. dose anyone else have this problem?
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