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Great Planes Spirit 2M Electric conversion by rip

Old 02-12-2013, 05:12 PM
  #1  
ripacheco
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Default Great Planes Spirit 2M Electric conversion by rip

10 years ago I started building from a kit a Great Planes 2m Spirit glider. Life got on the way and the kit got put away until 2 weeks ago.

Horiz/Vert/Stabs are done. Fuse is not started. Wings are almost done. Sadly I had chosed to make it a one-piece wing. trying to "salvage" the wing and make it a two piece now.

Here are the specs including the power system I intend to use:
  • Wingspan: 78.5 in (2000 mm)
  • Wing Area: 676 in² (44 dm²)
  • Weight (*): 30 oz (850 g)
  • Wing Loading (*): 6.5 oz/ft² (20 g/dm²)
  • Fuselage Length: 39.25 in (1000 mm)
  • Motor: Scorpion SII 3008-1090
  • ESC: Scorpion 15V 35A
  • Batt: ThunderPower Pro Lite G6 TP2700 3S
  • Prop 1: Aeronaut FOLD 10 x 6
  • Prop 2: Aeronaut FOLD 11 x 7
(*) does not include LIPO/ESC/Motor/Prop/Spinner...

Last edited by ripacheco; 02-12-2013 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:12 PM
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Got the outer sections glued to the mid sections. Trying to decide if I should finish the wing as a one-piece or try to salvage what I have and make it into a two-piece wing. 10 years ago when I started building this kit I had decided to build a one piece wing and skipped the steps required to make it into a 2 piece.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:35 PM
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quorneng
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Apart from transport issues there is a lot to be said for a one piece wing, mainly it is stronger, stiffer and lighter. Very useful attributes for any plane!

I only have one 2 piece wing glider and that was an ARTF and that needed some re engineering to give an adequate reserve of strength.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:55 PM
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ripacheco
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Originally Posted by quorneng View Post
Apart from transport issues there is a lot to be said for a one piece wing, mainly it is stronger, stiffer and lighter. Very useful attributes for any plane!

I only have one 2 piece wing glider and that was an ARTF and that needed some re engineering to give an adequate reserve of strength.
Yes... the transport will be a pain... but not undoable... I think the benefits of a one-piece will compensate for having to have the back and front seats folded.. in my car ...
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:56 AM
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AEAJR
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Make sure you plan your motor mount well so you have the right clearence for the motor. You can always modif the fuse while you are building it, but it will be a bear to make it fit after the fuse is done.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:57 PM
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ripacheco
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Originally Posted by AEAJR View Post
Make sure you plan your motor mount well so you have the right clearence for the motor. You can always modif the fuse while you are building it, but it will be a bear to make it fit after the fuse is done.
Clearance from the firewall?
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:21 PM
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AEAJR
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If you are using an outrunner motorm the can spins. You need to make sure you have room so it does not contact the wall of the fuselage IF you plan to put the motor inside the fuse, which is where I would want it.

Also, the wires need clearence. Depending no how you mount the motor you have to account for clearence for the wires or you could hit them and cause a short.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:59 PM
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ripacheco
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Yes I understand what you mean.
I am planning on installing the motor inside the fuse.
I have an X-mount on hand . Hopefully that will be enough. Otherwise standoffs will be in need.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:17 PM
  #9  
AEAJR
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Hummmm.....

I have a Spirt that is flown off a hi-start.

After a crash, I purchased a kit and buit a new fuse. At the time I didn't know much about fixing, so it was easier for me to build a new one. but today this would be a relatively minor repair. Photo below shows the damaged fuselage that has been the rack for years. And I still have the remains of the kit so I could build a new tail too.

Your thread makes me think of redoing that fuse as an electric. I might even have a suitable electric motor for the job.

So many ideas. So many aircraft, so little time.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by AEAJR View Post
I have a Spirt that is flown off a hi-start. but I have a second fuse that was in a crash. The nose is broken. Your thread makes me think of redoing that fuse as an electric.

Hummmm.....

So many ideas. So many aircraft, so little time.
He he I know what u mean
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:59 AM
  #11  
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Tried to join my wings today but the weather conspired. My garage is not heated and the temperature in there dropped below 60F
Epoxy won't cure under 60F
Sigh... Gotta wait until tomorrow
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:40 AM
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I converted an old 2M sailplane to electric last spring. It's been a lot of fun. I put my motor on the outside of the fuse (mine had a plastic nose cone) removed that and affixed the mount to the firewall. If you mount yours inside be sure to do something to allow for motor cooling (airflow).
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:25 PM
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Turbojoe
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Not trying to take over this thread. Just bringing it back to the top. I have a few questions...

I just picked up a G.P. Spirit 2M kit a few days ago for $20.00. Complete except for plans. Thanks to Wattflyer member DEG my kit is now complete. (I can't thank you enough for the generous help Don!)

I haven't built or flown a sailplane since the 80's and the one that I ultimately flew I put a glow motor in the nose and added tricycle gear. It was a Mark's Models Wanderer 99. Flew great but was it really a sailplane anymore? It was a skinny glow powered fuse with a really big wing....The other was a C.G. Gentle Lady that I built and gave to a friend before I got to fly her.

I've got piles of electric planes but just want something different now. Maybe the Spirit will fill that void for me.

The first thing I've noticed with this kit is that while the wood looks really nice it is Gawd awful heavy! Much heavier than even glow powered kits I built back in those days. I mean this stuff weighs like OAK. Does this bird WANT to be that heavy? For better penetration maybe? If not then I'll be cutting a lot of new parts from much lighter wood. I'm sure I can easily drop 3+ ounces from the fuse weight alone.

I've never flown from a winch or Hi-start. Looks like a monumental P.I.T.A. to me. I've got electric power systems coming out of my ears and can outfit this thing up to 1200+ watts if need be. If electric is the better way to go then obviously I'd rather go with a lower power and lighter setup. What are the pros and cons of hi-start vs electric power? Cost really isn't an issue for electric power as I already have everything. A Hi-start I would have to buy. What about a power pod? Just not sure on all of this. I'm thinking 150-200 watts should be sufficient to haul her (slowly) up to altitude.

I've done a little searching on this bird and one thing that pops up a lot is the need to enlarge the vertical fin/rudder. That's easy and I can go ahead and easily implement that. Anything else? Spoilers may be an interesting add. Useful or a huge waste of time and weight?

Not sure when I'll start on this build. Before I build anything I always like to do my research and be fully prepared before that first drop of glue comes out. It's much more important for this build because I have so little experience with sailplanes.

Joe
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbojoe View Post
Not trying to take over this thread. Just bringing it back to the top. I have a few questions...

I just picked up a G.P. Spirit 2M kit a few days ago for $20.00. Complete except for plans. Thanks to Wattflyer member DEG my kit is now complete. (I can't thank you enough for the generous help Don!)

I haven't built or flown a sailplane since the 80's and the one that I ultimately flew I put a glow motor in the nose and added tricycle gear. It was a Mark's Models Wanderer 99. Flew great but was it really a sailplane anymore? It was a skinny glow powered fuse with a really big wing....The other was a C.G. Gentle Lady that I built and gave to a friend before I got to fly her.

I've got piles of electric planes but just want something different now. Maybe the Spirit will fill that void for me.

The first thing I've noticed with this kit is that while the wood looks really nice it is Gawd awful heavy! Much heavier than even glow powered kits I built back in those days. I mean this stuff weighs like OAK. Does this bird WANT to be that heavy? For better penetration maybe? If not then I'll be cutting a lot of new parts from much lighter wood. I'm sure I can easily drop 3+ ounces from the fuse weight alone.
No the glider does not need to be heavy. Make it as light as possible. Replace any heavy wood you can.

Move the servos into the nose area if you can. I would recommend mini/micros like Hitec HS81/82

My first pure glider was a Spirit but it flew better after I crashed it and rebuilt the fuse moving servos to nose and dropping almost 4 oz.

Originally Posted by Turbojoe View Post

I've never flown from a winch or Hi-start. Looks like a monumental P.I.T.A. to me. I've got electric power systems coming out of my ears and can outfit this thing up to 1200+ watts if need be. If electric is the better way to go then obviously I'd rather go with a lower power and lighter setup. What are the pros and cons of hi-start vs electric power? Cost really isn't an issue for electric power as I already have everything. A Hi-start I would have to buy. What about a power pod? Just not sure on all of this. I'm thinking 150-200 watts should be sufficient to haul her (slowly) up to altitude.
In the old days of pre lipo and pre brushless motors, electric gliders were VERY heavy so pure gliders were the way to go. But with modern motors and batteries going electric is easy and will introduce very little penalty if you keep the battery size down.

Now, understand that I fly pure gliders from winchs and hi-starts most of the time. But if you prefer electric. go for it. I would recommend at least 75 watts/pound. I fly my e-gliders in ALES contests so I shoot for about 130+ watts per pound for those.


Originally Posted by Turbojoe View Post

I've done a little searching on this bird and one thing that pops up a lot is the need to enlarge the vertical fin/rudder. That's easy and I can go ahead and easily implement that. Anything else? Spoilers may be an interesting add. Useful or a huge waste of time and weight?

Not sure when I'll start on this build. Before I build anything I always like to do my research and be fully prepared before that first drop of glue comes out. It's much more important for this build because I have so little experience with sailplanes.

Joe
The larger vert fin and rudder is a very good mod. And I love the spoilers on mine so I would recommend that.


Keep it as light as you can and you will enjoy it!
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:22 AM
  #15  
CHELLIE
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Here is an Idea Build the plane stock, but strap a EDF on the wing in the middle, that way you can fly it as a glider or power glider by just removing and replacing the EDF assy.



EDF power pod



http://www.nitroplanes.com/ventus-di...sailplane.html

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbFltkMV4Ks[/media]
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