Radian - a new plane from Parkzone
09-11-2009, 05:12 PM
#176
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by Charlie Watts
ADDENDUM: Is all Gorilla Glue foam safe for the Radian?
BTW: Gorilla Glue needs to be applied to a dampened surface to activate it. Once activated (joined) it foams up and will expand or try to expand. When it does, it will make a mess of the cracked area with a buildup of hardened foam that is sandable. I try to wipe it off as quickly as possible when it tries to create this mess and seems to work for me. It indeed does make a permanent bond between the foam halves, it it breaks again, it will not be on the glued area.
09-11-2009, 05:12 PM
#177
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: western North Carolina
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Instructions with the Radian say to use the provided tape to secure the horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage. Do I need to CA or Gorilla Glue it as well? Someone said in another forum to use Gorilla Glue but I wasn't sure by the flow of comments in the thread if it was applying to the Radian.
09-11-2009, 07:08 PM
#178
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 52
Originally Posted by Charlie Watts
I am getting my Radian today from my LHS and have a question before I assemble it. The manual I downloaded says to use the tape provided to secure the horizontal stabilizer, but I read somewhere on a forum to also use some CA on it. CA being brittle, is it possible Parkzone want's that play, or is it just a bad idea of the designers that is weak and needs reinforcing?
Just use tape for now.
I used some strips of clear duct tape, no problems yet.
You might want to remove the stab some time for transportation too.
Last edited by lilleyen; 09-30-2009 at 02:38 PM.
09-12-2009, 04:40 AM
#182
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CA Thick is what I used to put the nose back on, with accelerator. It worked very well. The two halves mated together very well so there wasn't any need to try to fill in gaps. Gorilla Glue will work very well also and I've used it on my Super Cub but it expands so much as it drys and creates a large bump along the repaired line that is very difficult to remove. You can use a damp cloth to wipe the buildup off as it sets up but still can leave a mess. Maybe others are better than I am with that stuff. Plus I get it all over my hands and it takes days to wear it off 
CA does leave a brittle connection but I've never had it break in followup crashes, always breaks in a new area.
CA does leave a brittle connection but I've never had it break in followup crashes, always breaks in a new area.
09-12-2009, 11:16 AM
#185
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Huffy, would you mind sharing the brand and description. I did a scan of the PDF manual and it never mentions a glue that I am able to identify.
GLUE
I have seen references on the forums to CA and kicker, foam safe CA, Gorilla glue. Now craft glue.
If you don't use kicker with regular CA, does it attack the foam?
What glues have not worked? Does epoxy work?
GLUE
I have seen references on the forums to CA and kicker, foam safe CA, Gorilla glue. Now craft glue.
If you don't use kicker with regular CA, does it attack the foam?
What glues have not worked? Does epoxy work?
09-12-2009, 12:44 PM
#186
Huffy01
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 587
The brand name is Castro Craft, craft glue, made in Taiwan.It compositions are polyacttic acid and ethylene resin. It's not a glue used for model building ,I think it might be a little too thick and heavy.
The only other glue I have tried was made by Kwik which said it could be used with foam but it ate through the foam I was using and haven't tried it on anything since.
Not sure about Epoxy, I believe it is meant to go well with polyurethane foams.
Z-foam I'm not sure!
The only other glue I have tried was made by Kwik which said it could be used with foam but it ate through the foam I was using and haven't tried it on anything since.
Not sure about Epoxy, I believe it is meant to go well with polyurethane foams.
Z-foam I'm not sure!
09-12-2009, 02:54 PM
#187
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,050
Where and when do you apply the kicker? (I have been afraid to use any CA on foam again based on a bad experience where the CA ate through a foam wing like cancer. (was not Z foam) My only Z foam repair to date was a boken tail on a supercub and epoxy did the trick.
09-12-2009, 04:43 PM
#188
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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You have to get the FOAM SAFE CA. CA makes all kinds of CA, some for balsa, some for plastics slow, med. fast etc. The label will say on it that it is Foam Safe. I've used CA on my Super Cub and the sail plane. The kicker is available along side of the CA, same shelf. I've been told that just plain water will also act as the accelerator just as well as the pricey kicker (accelerator).
The application of the kicker is done as soon as you connect the two pieces. Just spray it on the outer surface and it will harden the CA in just seconds. You can break a fuselage in half and CA it and with accelerator, be back in the air in two minutes.
The application of the kicker is done as soon as you connect the two pieces. Just spray it on the outer surface and it will harden the CA in just seconds. You can break a fuselage in half and CA it and with accelerator, be back in the air in two minutes.
09-12-2009, 05:11 PM
#189
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel
Hey Ed, does this article exist on a thread of it's own? i'd like to save (and print) it.
My articles are generally published in posts or the start of threads.
09-12-2009, 05:52 PM
#190
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Originally Posted by eghershey
You have to get the FOAM SAFE CA. CA makes all kinds of CA, some for balsa, some for plastics slow, med. fast etc. The label will say on it that it is Foam Safe. I've used CA on my Super Cub and the sail plane. The kicker is available along side of the CA, same shelf. I've been told that just plain water will also act as the accelerator just as well as the pricey kicker (accelerator).
The application of the kicker is done as soon as you connect the two pieces. Just spray it on the outer surface and it will harden the CA in just seconds. You can break a fuselage in half and CA it and with accelerator, be back in the air in two minutes.
The application of the kicker is done as soon as you connect the two pieces. Just spray it on the outer surface and it will harden the CA in just seconds. You can break a fuselage in half and CA it and with accelerator, be back in the air in two minutes.
09-12-2009, 06:12 PM
#191
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Fortunately the Radian went back together without problem. I used Zap-a-gap gap filling CA and kicker. I put the CA on one side and kicker on the other. The thick CA cures slower than thin CA so you do have about 10 -15 seconds to position parts before the final bind. Seems to have worked fine with no damage to the foam.
Will see if it holds up to use. If the nose falls off, well that might be an indication of a problem.
And, to address another question, I have used kicker, sprayed on the edge of a foam repair and it does seem to penetrate and kick off the bond deeper in. Can't say if it goes all the way in but the bonds have held.
Will see if it holds up to use. If the nose falls off, well that might be an indication of a problem.
And, to address another question, I have used kicker, sprayed on the edge of a foam repair and it does seem to penetrate and kick off the bond deeper in. Can't say if it goes all the way in but the bonds have held.
09-12-2009, 09:20 PM
#194
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Location: annapolis, md
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I ended up on this thread mainly because I'm trying to find a really simple, electric glider to give my bride for Christmas. While in college she was working on her private license, but nursing school etc got in the way. My father in law was a career United pilot and has also expressed interest in RC (electric) flying.
Sounds as if the Radian hooked to my DX6i as buddy box would work just fine and all of your posts have been helpful....(not surprised there at all)
Seems there are plenty of questions about glues and foam compatiblility. I could probably start another thread but that may already be out there.
For the purposes of this thread here is my knowledge of the glues mentioned.
Epoxies will not attack any materials that we work with and I have yet to hear of any that are adversely affected.
Epoxies require some heat, 40 degrees or better to even begin to cure but once they start curing they give off tons of heat...hence the melted styrofoam/plastic cups...and with enough mass, will boil water or start a fire during their curing process. Foam traps heat (great insulator) so when working with gluing foam parts together cure time is shortened. five minute is more like 3 minute and 30 minute closer to 10 minute. Luckily we dont need huge quantities of epoxy so the exothermic properties will not be sufficient to melt foams.
To gain working time with epoxies, I use an aluminum can, or line a plastic cup with aluminum foil once the epoxy is thoroughly mixed. The aluminum dissapates the heat but remember to stir the epoxy often or the center portion will turn rock solid before the outer (adjacent to aluminum surface) starts to cure. an aluminum stir stick left in the container helps as a heat sink.
AS for CA glues, I know with balsa joints I can exhale (trying hard to remember not to inhale) directly on the joint and it accelerates the cure time...cuts it in half approximately. Water vapor does accelerate CA glues. I have not worked enough with foam safe CA but from my limited use I get the impression that water vapor (moisture) is not quite as effective as kicker.
Thanks to information on this post (how many times have I said that) I did finally try gorilla glue (white) and was amazed at how similar in consitancey it is to foam. Gorilla glue is certainly moisture sensitive (required). Remember Gorilla glue expands on cure as much as 10 times original volume. This property alone can change precise alignment of fuse or wing parts under repair or build (ask hillbillypossum bout that)
Again sorry if this is off thread somewhat but would like to see a good thread started for all of our benefit.
again, thanks for the help here on WF...so little time...so much to learn....
CC
CC
Sounds as if the Radian hooked to my DX6i as buddy box would work just fine and all of your posts have been helpful....(not surprised there at all)
Seems there are plenty of questions about glues and foam compatiblility. I could probably start another thread but that may already be out there.
For the purposes of this thread here is my knowledge of the glues mentioned.
Epoxies will not attack any materials that we work with and I have yet to hear of any that are adversely affected.
Epoxies require some heat, 40 degrees or better to even begin to cure but once they start curing they give off tons of heat...hence the melted styrofoam/plastic cups...and with enough mass, will boil water or start a fire during their curing process. Foam traps heat (great insulator) so when working with gluing foam parts together cure time is shortened. five minute is more like 3 minute and 30 minute closer to 10 minute. Luckily we dont need huge quantities of epoxy so the exothermic properties will not be sufficient to melt foams.
To gain working time with epoxies, I use an aluminum can, or line a plastic cup with aluminum foil once the epoxy is thoroughly mixed. The aluminum dissapates the heat but remember to stir the epoxy often or the center portion will turn rock solid before the outer (adjacent to aluminum surface) starts to cure. an aluminum stir stick left in the container helps as a heat sink.
AS for CA glues, I know with balsa joints I can exhale (trying hard to remember not to inhale) directly on the joint and it accelerates the cure time...cuts it in half approximately. Water vapor does accelerate CA glues. I have not worked enough with foam safe CA but from my limited use I get the impression that water vapor (moisture) is not quite as effective as kicker.
Thanks to information on this post (how many times have I said that) I did finally try gorilla glue (white) and was amazed at how similar in consitancey it is to foam. Gorilla glue is certainly moisture sensitive (required). Remember Gorilla glue expands on cure as much as 10 times original volume. This property alone can change precise alignment of fuse or wing parts under repair or build (ask hillbillypossum bout that)
Again sorry if this is off thread somewhat but would like to see a good thread started for all of our benefit.
again, thanks for the help here on WF...so little time...so much to learn....
CC
CC
09-14-2009, 08:37 AM
#196
Huffy01
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 587
Finally starting to get some sring weather here in OZ .
I got the Radian out for about 40 minutes.
Had a hawk come in for a high speed look, pulled up along side ,did a roll and left as fast as it came. Makes me want a more aerobatic model.
As the wind became a little faster I bought the Radian down ,a few tight ,banked turns and dives .Landed only a few metre's from me .
The craft glue is holding well!!
I got the Radian out for about 40 minutes.
Had a hawk come in for a high speed look, pulled up along side ,did a roll and left as fast as it came. Makes me want a more aerobatic model.
As the wind became a little faster I bought the Radian down ,a few tight ,banked turns and dives .Landed only a few metre's from me .
The craft glue is holding well!!
09-15-2009, 01:22 AM
#197
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: western North Carolina
Posts: 112
NEW QUESTION ABOUT RADIAN:
I've heard many conflicting stories about the best way to hand launch the Radian. Some say give it 1/3 throttle, some say 1/2 and still others say full throttle then toss gently at a 60-degree angle. The other method I've heard is to give it a stern toss with zero throttle, AND THEN power up to about a half. These are all in reference to the prop issues I suppose. My Radian arrives Weds. Whoo hoo! Any launching experiences will help. Thanks.
I've heard many conflicting stories about the best way to hand launch the Radian. Some say give it 1/3 throttle, some say 1/2 and still others say full throttle then toss gently at a 60-degree angle. The other method I've heard is to give it a stern toss with zero throttle, AND THEN power up to about a half. These are all in reference to the prop issues I suppose. My Radian arrives Weds. Whoo hoo! Any launching experiences will help. Thanks.
09-15-2009, 03:18 AM
#198
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 631
Launch
Get someone to launch it for you for the maiden flight, if possible. I now launch mine with the power off, firm level toss.
Originally Posted by Charlie Watts
NEW QUESTION ABOUT RADIAN:
I've heard many conflicting stories about the best way to hand launch the Radian. Some say give it 1/3 throttle, some say 1/2 and still others say full throttle then toss gently at a 60-degree angle. The other method I've heard is to give it a stern toss with zero throttle, AND THEN power up to about a half. These are all in reference to the prop issues I suppose. My Radian arrives Weds. Whoo hoo! Any launching experiences will help. Thanks.
I've heard many conflicting stories about the best way to hand launch the Radian. Some say give it 1/3 throttle, some say 1/2 and still others say full throttle then toss gently at a 60-degree angle. The other method I've heard is to give it a stern toss with zero throttle, AND THEN power up to about a half. These are all in reference to the prop issues I suppose. My Radian arrives Weds. Whoo hoo! Any launching experiences will help. Thanks.
09-15-2009, 04:19 AM
#199
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Join Date: Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by Charlie Watts
NEW QUESTION ABOUT RADIAN:
I've heard many conflicting stories about the best way to hand launch the Radian. Some say give it 1/3 throttle, some say 1/2 and still others say full throttle then toss gently at a 60-degree angle. The other method I've heard is to give it a stern toss with zero throttle, AND THEN power up to about a half. These are all in reference to the prop issues I suppose. My Radian arrives Weds. Whoo hoo! Any launching experiences will help. Thanks.
I've heard many conflicting stories about the best way to hand launch the Radian. Some say give it 1/3 throttle, some say 1/2 and still others say full throttle then toss gently at a 60-degree angle. The other method I've heard is to give it a stern toss with zero throttle, AND THEN power up to about a half. These are all in reference to the prop issues I suppose. My Radian arrives Weds. Whoo hoo! Any launching experiences will help. Thanks.
09-15-2009, 04:21 AM
#200
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: All over the country
Posts: 28
The Radian....just who in the world would want a plane that flys so slow?
Who wants a plane that takes an acre to land?
Who wants a plane that takes 20 minutes to get from altitude to the ground?
Who wants a plane that doesn't make any noise??
I guess that would be me....I never thought I'd enjoy a slow, noisless, floaty plane but its just more fun than a barrel of crawdads. It just really grows on ya, doesn't it?
Who wants a plane that takes an acre to land?
Who wants a plane that takes 20 minutes to get from altitude to the ground?
Who wants a plane that doesn't make any noise??
I guess that would be me....I never thought I'd enjoy a slow, noisless, floaty plane but its just more fun than a barrel of crawdads. It just really grows on ya, doesn't it?
