GWS P-40 Build Thread
09-17-2007, 04:30 PM
#52
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All control surfaces are cut out and properly beveled. Horizontal stabalizer and vertical stabalizer are installed. Most control surfaces are hinged and installed (the only exception is the rudder, at this point).
Looking at the vertical stabalizer, I think I'm going to spackle the seam. Simply because the way GWS designed this airplane, it leaves an ugly seam between the vertical stabalizer and the fuselage. As a matter of fact, the's a really ugly gap between the fuselage and the leading edge (tip?) of the vertical stabalizer -- I'm sure the tip of the stabalizer got "dinged" during shipment... I'll have to fill that in and reshape it.
The only thing really challenging left to do is create a motor mount for the Park 480 motor, and figure out a better method of attaching the cowl (so that the connector pin isn't right in the middle of the tiger's mouth decal).
Once those two items are tackled, I will apply some fiberglass to the parts which will contact the earth on belly landing, install the electronics, and paint.
We're almost there!
Looking at the vertical stabalizer, I think I'm going to spackle the seam. Simply because the way GWS designed this airplane, it leaves an ugly seam between the vertical stabalizer and the fuselage. As a matter of fact, the's a really ugly gap between the fuselage and the leading edge (tip?) of the vertical stabalizer -- I'm sure the tip of the stabalizer got "dinged" during shipment... I'll have to fill that in and reshape it.
The only thing really challenging left to do is create a motor mount for the Park 480 motor, and figure out a better method of attaching the cowl (so that the connector pin isn't right in the middle of the tiger's mouth decal).
Once those two items are tackled, I will apply some fiberglass to the parts which will contact the earth on belly landing, install the electronics, and paint.
We're almost there!
09-18-2007, 05:12 PM
#60
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Some more pictures of the build...
I've reached a tricky part of this build... Here's the deal:
I've reached a tricky part of this build... Here's the deal:
1) The buyer wants me to apply some fiberglass covering to the servo wire trench.
2) The landing gear pod extends past the servo wire trench.
3) The landing gear pod will require some sanding and spackling to fill in the gaps.
So:2) The landing gear pod extends past the servo wire trench.
3) The landing gear pod will require some sanding and spackling to fill in the gaps.
1) Do I fiberglass the servo wire trench first, THEN glue the landing gear pod on top? If I do this, the spackle will sit on top of the fiberglass, and I'm not sure how that will look... (Maybe it will fill in the weave and look awesome!)
2) Do I glue the landing gear pod first, THEN apply the fiberglass? If so, this fiberglass job will be tricky!
3) Will the thin piece of fiberglass over the trench warp the wing? This is the biggest question in my mind, and I fear the results... Unknowns can be fearful! :o
2) Do I glue the landing gear pod first, THEN apply the fiberglass? If so, this fiberglass job will be tricky!
3) Will the thin piece of fiberglass over the trench warp the wing? This is the biggest question in my mind, and I fear the results... Unknowns can be fearful! :o
09-19-2007, 04:05 AM
#61
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my 2 cents
I would fiberglass first and then glue the pod on. The spackle on the fiberglass works great. I like to water mine down for a final coat. Thats how I did my P-40 wing. And I don't think there is much of a chance of it warping the wing. The fiberglass doesn't seem to shrink that much when it dries.
09-19-2007, 04:55 AM
#62
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LOL -- well, I actually Gorilla Glued the landing gear pods to the wing during my lunch hour today. I decided it was just easier to do it that way -- it was the path with the least questions. 
However, now I have a NEW dilemma! I put the motor on my trusty thrust bench... The buyer wants me to test three different props (APC 9x7.5E, APC 11x7E, and a MAS 10x8E) WITH the spinner installed...
I elected to start with an APC 8x8E prop, just to try to keep the amp draw down at first, and then build up to the 11x7E... That's when I realized the included EFlite prop adapter is not long enough to allow the spinner backplate AND the prop to be installed at the same time!
So -- I'm going to need to find a 4mm prop adapter, with a LONG shaft... Any ideas?
However, now I have a NEW dilemma! I put the motor on my trusty thrust bench... The buyer wants me to test three different props (APC 9x7.5E, APC 11x7E, and a MAS 10x8E) WITH the spinner installed...
I elected to start with an APC 8x8E prop, just to try to keep the amp draw down at first, and then build up to the 11x7E... That's when I realized the included EFlite prop adapter is not long enough to allow the spinner backplate AND the prop to be installed at the same time!
So -- I'm going to need to find a 4mm prop adapter, with a LONG shaft... Any ideas?
09-19-2007, 05:25 AM
#63
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09-19-2007, 03:30 PM
#65
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This morning, I installed the control horns and push rods. The stock push rods for the ailerons were MUCH too large for the Dubro E/Z connectors, so I replaced them with push rods of the same size as the elevator and rudder push rods (.039" music wire).
As always, when glueing plastic parts to styrofoam, I score the plastic with a cross hatch pattern, to give the glue something to grip. I also use Gorilla Glue in everything I build -- it has a long cure time (24 hours), but it dries lighter than epoxy, and is MUCH stronger than epoxy.
Pic #1 -- The difference between the stock pushrod, and the .039" pushrod.
Pic #2 -- The servo, control horn, push rod, servo wire trench, and landing gear pod.
Pic #3 -- The control horns, and push rods.
Pic #4 -- The servos (I had to clip the ends off the servo arms, to get them to fit!)
As always, when glueing plastic parts to styrofoam, I score the plastic with a cross hatch pattern, to give the glue something to grip. I also use Gorilla Glue in everything I build -- it has a long cure time (24 hours), but it dries lighter than epoxy, and is MUCH stronger than epoxy.
Pic #1 -- The difference between the stock pushrod, and the .039" pushrod.
Pic #2 -- The servo, control horn, push rod, servo wire trench, and landing gear pod.
Pic #3 -- The control horns, and push rods.
Pic #4 -- The servos (I had to clip the ends off the servo arms, to get them to fit!)
09-19-2007, 06:56 PM
#66
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead
I also use Gorilla Glue in everything I build -- it has a long cure time (24 hours), but it dries lighter than epoxy, and is MUCH stronger than epoxy.
09-19-2007, 11:10 PM
#67
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LL,
Looking good! On mine, I actually took a couple strips of lite ply and glued them onto the servo "rails". I got tired of having to clean hot glue off servos when I removed them from a re-kit, so I added the ply and just mounted the servos with the supplied screws.
Looking good! On mine, I actually took a couple strips of lite ply and glued them onto the servo "rails". I got tired of having to clean hot glue off servos when I removed them from a re-kit, so I added the ply and just mounted the servos with the supplied screws.
09-20-2007, 12:37 AM
#68
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Originally Posted by crxmanpat
LL,
Looking good! On mine, I actually took a couple strips of lite ply and glued them onto the servo "rails". I got tired of having to clean hot glue off servos when I removed them from a re-kit, so I added the ply and just mounted the servos with the supplied screws.
Looking good! On mine, I actually took a couple strips of lite ply and glued them onto the servo "rails". I got tired of having to clean hot glue off servos when I removed them from a re-kit, so I added the ply and just mounted the servos with the supplied screws.
09-20-2007, 04:41 AM
#69
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Wilmracer -- I was about to post the same thing. Again, I always use Gorilla Glue in my builds -- servo installation is no exception.
I learned a little trick from Hawklover (aka "Corndog") during my Air Devil P-38 build... I wrap a single layer of masking tape around the servo, and then glue in place. If I ever need to reuse the servo (like after I've crashed my 1,000th P-38
), I just pull the masking tape off, and the Gorilla Glue comes off with it. The servo ends up looking brand new. 
I'm sorry I did not take a picture of how I did this. That was an oversight on my part... :o
EDIT --> If you go back and look at the pictures in my previous post, you can see the masking tape on the servos in the wing. LOL -- yeah, I meant to do that! Yeah, that's the ticket!
I learned a little trick from Hawklover (aka "Corndog") during my Air Devil P-38 build... I wrap a single layer of masking tape around the servo, and then glue in place. If I ever need to reuse the servo (like after I've crashed my 1,000th P-38
), I just pull the masking tape off, and the Gorilla Glue comes off with it. The servo ends up looking brand new. I'm sorry I did not take a picture of how I did this. That was an oversight on my part... :o
EDIT --> If you go back and look at the pictures in my previous post, you can see the masking tape on the servos in the wing. LOL -- yeah, I meant to do that! Yeah, that's the ticket!
09-20-2007, 04:48 AM
#70
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Also -- in case anyone has experience with this kind of thing -- the buyer and I discussed other options for covering the servo wire trench in the wing... I've come up with the idea to use a thin strip of MicroLite covering, instead of fiberglass.
1) The covering won't warp the wing -- not even the slightest chance.
2) Experience tells me that the fiberglass will sag just a little as it crosses the servo wire channel. I believe the covering will be taut, after shrinking.
My only concern is what happens when I airbrush paint onto covering... Will the paint stick? Does anyone know?
1) The covering won't warp the wing -- not even the slightest chance.
2) Experience tells me that the fiberglass will sag just a little as it crosses the servo wire channel. I believe the covering will be taut, after shrinking.
My only concern is what happens when I airbrush paint onto covering... Will the paint stick? Does anyone know?
09-20-2007, 05:57 AM
#71
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Lt L,
I am really enjoying your thread. I've been trolling it frequently! You're giving us a nice overview of the GWS P-40. I must say it looks like a very nice warbird. Love the P-40 (can you tell?). Fly when you can,
Bob
I am really enjoying your thread. I've been trolling it frequently! You're giving us a nice overview of the GWS P-40. I must say it looks like a very nice warbird. Love the P-40 (can you tell?). Fly when you can,
Bob
09-20-2007, 08:46 PM
#74
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Originally Posted by tommytorino
The covering is a very good idea.
The glass on my wing is not exactly perfect, even after filling it.
Although, the covering may show as an "outie" while my glass was an "innie".
Tommy D
The glass on my wing is not exactly perfect, even after filling it.
Although, the covering may show as an "outie" while my glass was an "innie".
Tommy D
09-20-2007, 09:00 PM
#75
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Well, "sag of glass", I understand.
"Protrusion of covering", I don't understand. I've covered LOTS of airplanes, but I've never seen any kind of "bubble"... The heat shrinks the covering to take the shortest distance between two points; it seems to me that the covering would completely hide the servo wire channel...
I've been known to be wrong before... ...from time to time... :o
"Protrusion of covering", I don't understand. I've covered LOTS of airplanes, but I've never seen any kind of "bubble"... The heat shrinks the covering to take the shortest distance between two points; it seems to me that the covering would completely hide the servo wire channel...
I've been known to be wrong before... ...from time to time... :o
