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Foam hinges .... repairing

Old 08-30-2013, 07:33 PM
  #1  
solentlife
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Default Foam hinges .... repairing

We all have a foam model there that the moulded foam hinge starts to tear / crack / split and finally we have to resort to fixing with conventional hingeing or whatever ...

I have watched a lot of videos showing Hot Glue hinges and various ... and read a lot on forums like here about Hot glue etc.

My 50mm T45 developed the cracked hinge and I had a glue gun handy ... so I bent back the surface to expose the hinge line and you could see the jagged torn edge ... I applied a thin film of hot glue to the jagged line ... pressed both back together in line ... let it cool a bit then ran a thin film over that which was wide enough to overlap onto both edges ... did that both sides and worked the surface free .. Perfect !

I could not believe how well it worked.

I've just re-hinged my 540 Edge Racer rudder same way ... where the tail wheel caught the runway edge on landing ... and ripped rudder of ...

Nigel
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:06 PM
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fhhuber
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I slot the foam and insert common "CA hinges"

EPO you can use normal thin CA.
Other foams you will have to use some other glue. Thin foam-safe CA is good but you can also use epoxy. Gorilla polyurethane glue or any of several other glues...

If desired you can reseal the hinge line with Blenderm (bandage tape) or other tape.

Flexing the foam as the hinge you are guaranteed to eventually crack the foam.
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Old 08-31-2013, 04:40 AM
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dahawk
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On my T-45 , had the same thing happen as well as with others that have similar foam hinges. In the US there's a product called "Welders" and comes in a red tube. Nigel, next time you're in Texas pck some up at a Wal-Mart. This glue maintains it's elasticity. Very effective on foam hinge repairs.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:00 AM
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Texas ... sure will !! Hawk ... if you have a tube handy - can you post exactly what the label says ... as there's likely a generic or similar glue where I am .. (ie Gorilla Glue is actually PU Wood Glue .....)

CA ... not my favourite glue to be honest ... IMHO - its one of the most mis-used glues out ...

I usually replace stock hingeing with Mylar strip ... having used that for decades in big and small models. But this time thought ... Oh Well ... lets give it a try.
It was so easy and quick ... and surface self-aligned due to the jagged edge re-seating ...

Nigel
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Texas ... sure will !! Hawk ... if you have a tube handy - can you post exactly what the label says ... as there's likely a generic or similar glue where I am .. (ie Gorilla Glue is actually PU Wood Glue .....)

CA ... not my favourite glue to be honest ... IMHO - its one of the most mis-used glues out ...

I usually replace stock hingeing with Mylar strip ... having used that for decades in big and small models. But this time thought ... Oh Well ... lets give it a try.
It was so easy and quick ... and surface self-aligned due to the jagged edge re-seating ...

Nigel
+1 CA is not my favorite glue too, but it does have its place, i like the smell of Ambroid Glue LOL, I use epoxy about 90% of the time.
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:17 PM
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Nigel,

Welder is actually the mfg. name. You can google Welder Glue. It's not JB Weld. It's a contact cement basically. I love the stuff but it will eat through certain types of foam like EPS.

http://youtu.be/bK3wi6gNTUE


Have a good one !

-Hawk
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:40 PM
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I use UHU Por to good effect, it's a clear contact adhesive usually used for Depron foamies. I cut the damaged hinge line free, clean up any raggedness and then coat the hinge line of the control surface with a very thin bead of the glue. The control surface is then offered up to the wing/tail or fin and then pulled away to allow the glue to dry on both surfaces for about 1 minute. The control surface is then put back into place and voila! an invisible flexible hinge that'll last longer than the original hinge.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:24 PM
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solentlife
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Originally Posted by Ben D wing View Post
I use UHU Por to good effect, it's a clear contact adhesive usually used for Depron foamies. I cut the damaged hinge line free, clean up any raggedness and then coat the hinge line of the control surface with a very thin bead of the glue. The control surface is then offered up to the wing/tail or fin and then pulled away to allow the glue to dry on both surfaces for about 1 minute. The control surface is then put back into place and voila! an invisible flexible hinge that'll last longer than the original hinge.
I actually advocate not to clean up the ragged old hinge line .. I find it provides an excellent alignment key not only vertically but also horizontally making surface inline both axis.

Nigel
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:51 PM
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+1 on leaving the jagged edges. That's exactly how I do it. I suspect the UHU por is the same product as Welder. Clear with good elasticity.
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Old 11-28-2013, 06:20 AM
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When I get a tear on a molded foam hinge, I apply a thin bead of Silicone Rubber to replace it. Works great.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:52 PM
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I use blenderm tape for quick foam hinge fixes, its super sticky and oh so flexible. But I like the welders idea, and even more the idea of installing nylon hinges.
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:19 AM
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I have used this glue on my EPP plane:

http://www.beaconadhesives.com/cggrip.html

I like it better than UHU pore, as you don't have to let it sit and then push the pieces together. It is a very flexible, but very strong glue. It stretches like an elastic. I have it on my Mini Switch landing gear, and it holds strong, better than the CA which only held the landing gear for a little while.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:15 AM
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solentlife
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Originally Posted by thepiper92 View Post
I have used this glue on my EPP plane:

http://www.beaconadhesives.com/cggrip.html

I like it better than UHU pore, as you don't have to let it sit and then push the pieces together. It is a very flexible, but very strong glue. It stretches like an elastic. I have it on my Mini Switch landing gear, and it holds strong, better than the CA which only held the landing gear for a little while.
I note it must be a solvent based glue - the link you gave - so careful what foam you use it on.

They do give a link to a foam-safe version.

This is normal for contact glues which rely on a solvent .. they eat most foams. It's the petroleum and acetone based components in them... what gives the 'smell' !

Nigel
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
I note it must be a solvent based glue - the link you gave - so careful what foam you use it on.

They do give a link to a foam-safe version.

This is normal for contact glues which rely on a solvent .. they eat most foams. It's the petroleum and acetone based components in them... what gives the 'smell' !

Nigel
It has not damaged the EPO foam. I tried it on a small spot at first. It is holding my landing gear on fine and I haven't noticed any damage. It has the same smell as UHU Por actually.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by thepiper92 View Post
It has not damaged the EPO foam. I tried it on a small spot at first. It is holding my landing gear on fine and I haven't noticed any damage. It has the same smell as UHU Por actually.
Yep - that's fine ... I wasn't knocking you - just making sure people check glues before slapping on their pride and joy and then watch it dissolve !!

I can remember as a kid with broken plastic toys grabbing glue and wishing I hadn't !!

Paint is another one .. always test on a scrap piece first ... spray cans are worst due to the propellant is often petroleum based. Here's one that gets people ...

Get a spray can of paint ... Graphic oil based for example. Spray from a good distance back .......... no problem.

Now do same test but with can close up to the foam ... watch as the solvent that is now on the foam starts to eat ...

When you spray at distance - the solvent is able to disperse and very little hits the foam ... do it close up and it all gets there ...

Nigel
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Yep - that's fine ... I wasn't knocking you - just making sure people check glues before slapping on their pride and joy and then watch it dissolve !!

I can remember as a kid with broken plastic toys grabbing glue and wishing I hadn't !!

Paint is another one .. always test on a scrap piece first ... spray cans are worst due to the propellant is often petroleum based. Here's one that gets people ...

Get a spray can of paint ... Graphic oil based for example. Spray from a good distance back .......... no problem.

Now do same test but with can close up to the foam ... watch as the solvent that is now on the foam starts to eat ...

When you spray at distance - the solvent is able to disperse and very little hits the foam ... do it close up and it all gets there ...

Nigel
Haha, I've had similar experience with painting rc car bodies, and models. Get some nice paint on the car body, then decide you want to tint windows...then watch as you find out that the tint paint is like water, and water that completely destroys the other paint. I haven't had any issues with foam being destroyed by glue luckily. Definitely enjoying not having to paint rc planes....yet. It's just not fun to buy something, spend tons on paint and surface prep stuff and then find out that the paint doesn't adhere, or eats through stuff. I am very careful with the glue stuff as a result. I randomly found it at walmart, looking for CA glue actually. Turns out it is a glue like UHU Por, which I have been using, but far stronger. With my Tuff Trainer, I was using UHU Por to glue on new motor mounts. It worked, but with the Quick Grip, it will take foam off with it if you try to pull the parts off, yet it is amazing flexible.
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