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Guillows B-17 Flying Fortress Conversion

Old 01-22-2010, 04:09 AM
  #76  
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I didn't see those mods either. Easy to miss some of the little details. Oh well.... Did nothing tonight on the 17 will need to get back on it tomorrow but tomorrow is just me and the dogs here in the evening and they are good build help.
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:22 AM
  #77  
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I was doing some R&D tonight getting ready for my B-17 build and came accross this thread. You might have seen it already but I figured I would post it just in case. Lots of good ideas that might help. Gave me a good heads up on my retracts. It looks like most of the builds didnt get completed but still helpful. Here it is....

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=827861
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Old 01-22-2010, 02:17 PM
  #78  
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Last summer I searched and searched for Guillows B-17 build threads and you're right only a hand full finished. I wont get a chance to touch my B-17 for a few days, I'll be putting down wood floors in my house this weekend.


Legacy,

If you want please post your progress on this thread, I think it would be great to have multiple builds on one thread.
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Old 01-26-2010, 05:03 AM
  #79  
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Ok so I have been doing some reading and I found that one successful B-17 conversion used GWS brushed EM300 motors, GWS 5X3 3 blade props, a 7.4v 25c 3700mah lipo, 30 amp esc, and a 3 amp bec. I havent done to many scratch power systems. Is there a brushed motor that is equal but can handle the 11.1v lipos of today? Have you guys decided on your power systems yet? I would like to go with brushless for weight reasons but that would require 4 escs...pricey, and I havent seen a proven b-17 with a brushless set up. Seems it would make sense to go with a proven brushed setup. Im just not much of a motor tech know all. Any ideas?
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:45 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Legacy View Post
Ok so I have been doing some reading and I found that one successful B-17 conversion used GWS brushed EM300 motors, GWS 5X3 3 blade props, a 7.4v 25c 3700mah lipo, 30 amp esc, and a 3 amp bec. I havent done to many scratch power systems. Is there a brushed motor that is equal but can handle the 11.1v lipos of today? Have you guys decided on your power systems yet? I would like to go with brushless for weight reasons but that would require 4 escs...pricey, and I havent seen a proven b-17 with a brushless set up. Seems it would make sense to go with a proven brushed setup. Im just not much of a motor tech know all. Any ideas?
I'm not 100% sure yet, but leaning toward the Heads Up RC 2712-17 brushless motors ($12 each) with four Power Up 10A ESC's ($17 each), a Thunder Power 2S 13C 1320 MAH Batt (I have) and AR500 RX (I have). Not sure about the props.
This is when my build REEAALLLYYY slows down. I bought the kit last summer then in September I joined the %10 club (part time employement) so moneys tight.

Last edited by park; 07-22-2010 at 01:06 AM.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:08 AM
  #81  
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Working on coverings, have the tail feathers and wings done will start the Fuse in the next day or so and hope to maybe be done with that by the end of the weekend. Will post some pics if I get far enough along. Decided to just use the plastic cowl etc. Decided I just could not do a good duplication of tha smooth curved surface and have it look as good
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Old 01-28-2010, 02:15 PM
  #82  
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Looking forward to seeing it, are you going with silver or OD ?
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Old 01-29-2010, 02:10 AM
  #83  
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OD for the top of the fuse, wings and horizontal stab and elevator. Silver for the vertical stab and rudder, underside of the horizontal stab and elevator, underside of the wings and belly of the fuse. OD for the cowls and nacelles and will coat the whole thing with Testors Dullcoat. Was planning black props, but could only find the props in silver. May paint them as they are more of a light gray not really a silver, but will see how they look.

Last edited by dumo01; 01-29-2010 at 02:11 AM. Reason: correction
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:29 AM
  #84  
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This is what I'm going to try, the 447th. Not sure if I'm going to have yellow cowls.


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Old 01-29-2010, 10:59 AM
  #85  
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That will look great
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Old 01-29-2010, 02:25 PM
  #86  
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Looking at that picture reminds me of one of the reasons I like building warbirds, they don't have to look clean
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Old 01-29-2010, 09:30 PM
  #87  
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Yes but it takes way too much effort to get the dirt smudges to look just right
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:39 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by dumo01 View Post
Yes but it takes way too much effort to get the dirt smudges to look just right
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:33 PM
  #89  
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I worked on the B17 a little Sunday. I spent most of the time getting my work station back in order after putting down the flooring. I made a modification for the right side cheek gun. Got a couple of questions: See if I made the fuselage door window frame correctly? the directions were not clear. How inportant are the planks at the wing root? I had a very difficult time with the trailing edge ones so I gave up! O, here's a pic of the floor
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:45 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by park View Post
I worked on the B17 a little Sunday. I spent most of the time getting my work station back in order after putting down the flooring. I made a modification for the right side cheek gun. Got a couple of questions: See if I made the fuselage door window frame correctly? the directions were not clear. How inportant are the planks at the wing root? I had a very difficult time with the trailing edge ones so I gave up! O, here's a pic of the floor
The cheek gun mod looks good. I will probably not try to go back and fix that too much unless I can figure out something to do without taking the covering off. Not sure what that would be. Maybe I can use it for dispalys of " see if you can find the historical inaccuracy" LOL.

The door looks the same as mine if it is wrong we both did it the same for what that is worth.

Not sure what planks you are referring to, can you see them in the pictures in my post #56? If you mean the trailing edges per se, whihc we talked about at some point I think those would be tough to work around. I thought the best way for me was a taable top belt sander to sand off the one side. A mall hand plane would also work I think.

Did not get quite as much done this weekend as I hoped, took a break and crashed some aircraft at the indoor fly Sat night. The SU -26 took a mid air from a larger plane coming up from behind, need a little CF to finish that repair, not too bad. My CX2 took a major hit, not sure what happened. Did a minor repair from a blade strike earlier in the week and all looked OK but when I from the time I lifted off Sat night had no control, crashed on the nose with some body damage and most likely killed the receiver We do this for fun right?

The floor looks great, did it take a lot of trim to get it to fly well?
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:11 AM
  #91  
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"Not sure what planks you are referring to, can you see them in the pictures in my post #56?"

No I can't see them. Here's a pic of the front ones installed and one rear one there should be two more at the rear location there called Q planking. It looks like it would be no sweat but I just could not get my fingers or a tool in there to hold it why glueing.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:50 AM
  #92  
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Can you maybe stick it with a pin and use that to hold it in place and secure it with fast CA. Just a thought, Im no where near that step in my build.
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:06 AM
  #93  
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How's it going guys? Building a Waco Guillows now and wanting to convert it to brushless, haven't gone through all the posts but wondering if iron on covering will do (low heat)? It seems awefully fragile at this point.
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:12 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by park View Post
"Not sure what planks you are referring to, can you see them in the pictures in my post #56?"

No I can't see them. Here's a pic of the front ones installed and one rear one there should be two more at the rear location there called Q planking. It looks like it would be no sweat but I just could not get my fingers or a tool in there to hold it why glueing.
OK now I see what you are talking about. I was able to just wedge them in enough to hold while I got some gap filling CA in a couple spots to hold and then used a little balsa to fill in if needed. I can not see that if would make much difference if they were ther or not except they do give you a little more smooth surface to fasten the coverings in around the wing/ fuselage junction. Don't think they add much if anything at all from a structural standpoint. i wondered after I saw tose and added them if it would have been easier to do earlier in the assembly. Thought maybe imissed a step.

Got the biggest share of the covering done. need to do a little clean up here and there and start on the nacelles and cowls. Was thinking I was moving along well and then started looking and realizing how much I have left to do. Would like to assemble the pieces just to see how it looks, but I do not want to be flipping the whole plane around to work on nacelles. The wing is big enough to be flipping back and forth.
Will try to get some pics up tomorrow.
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:17 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by chris123sc View Post
How's it going guys? Building a Waco Guillows now and wanting to convert it to brushless, haven't gone through all the posts but wondering if iron on covering will do (low heat)? It seems awefully fragile at this point.
I am using Ultra-coat on mine, seems to be working fine. The only draw back might be from a weight standpoint. I do not have much experience before this but from what i have read there are other iron on coating that are lighter than the ultra-coat you could look at. I chose the Ultra -coat because it was what I had worked with on a could repairs I had done of a plane i had crashed, the the guys at the LHS recommended it as the easiest to work with in their opinion. Figured for a low level of experience it was a good starting point even if it did add a little to the final AUW
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:36 AM
  #96  
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I have used a product from World Models called Lightex on a few indoor micro planes where weight was a big issue. Its 5.8grams a square foot. I like it because its strong but its thin so its easy to work with. It also come in a bunch of colors including clear. If you use it go with low heat and warm it up evenly so you dont melt a hole in it. It shrinks really well. I am going to be using it on my B-17 and painting it. You can find it here...

http://www.airborne-models.com/
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:06 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Legacy View Post
Can you maybe stick it with a pin and use that to hold it in place and secure it with fast CA. Just a thought, Im no where near that step in my build.

That's a thought. I will try again today, sometimes it helps when you sleep on it.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:12 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by chris123sc View Post
How's it going guys? Building a Waco Guillows now and wanting to convert it to brushless, haven't gone through all the posts but wondering if iron on covering will do (low heat)? It seems awefully fragile at this point.
Sounds like the LightTex has Legacy must be very light if used on mini indoor planes. I use Solite I don't know the weight? Good luck with the Waco!
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:39 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Legacy View Post
Can you maybe stick it with a pin and use that to hold it in place and secure it with fast CA. Just a thought, Im no where near that step in my build.
Thanks for the tip! I used a pin to hold the plank then glued it in place.
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:41 AM
  #100  
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I have been cutting and notching the wing ribs.
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