Fairchild 24 rc build info - WattFlyer RC Electric Flight Forums - Discuss radio control eflight

Beginners New to e-power flying? Get the low down in here from experienced e-power RC pilots!

Fairchild 24 rc build info

Old 06-26-2016, 08:47 PM
  #1  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default Fairchild 24 rc build info

I would like to convert an already built 28 inch wing span Guillows Fairchild 24 to electric. I am only interested in controlling the elevator, rudder and throttle. Can someone provide me with information about where to find a somewhat detailed description of such a project that has been successfully completed? I would like to know what the motor, ESC, and servo choices that would be appropriate as well as any other items I may be overlooking. I called the Quillow's factory but didn't get far there.
I am currently flying and enjoying a E-Flight Radian with a Spektrum DXe controller. This is my first build project so I have a learning curve ahead of me.
The only information I have found so far was written in 2005. I assume that is too old to be relevant to me today.
potatomasher is offline  
Old 06-29-2016, 12:37 AM
  #2  
Abuelo
Member
 
Abuelo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Arizona desert
Posts: 320
Default

Doesn't seem to be any write-ups since the 2005 one on RCG. The Fairchild is an attractive plane and well might be worthwhile to convert to electric.

Only recommendations are the usual ones, watch the weight and keep the C/G on or forward of what the plans call for. Guillow makes some fine kits but they can be designed as much for survivability as flyability. The grams add up.

If it was my project I'd go with 4-5 gram servos, a Lemon receiver, and the smallest 2 cell pack I could find. Motor would be either a 250 or 300 size (20 gram +) with low Kv and a large prop, and an ESC of 150% the motor amp rating. With this as my starting point would modify as necessary to get the C/G right. Might have to beef up the landing gear for the weight increase and lengthen it for prop clearance.

Headsup R/C on the web is a good starting place for supplies and advice.

Whatever you decide I'd suggest taking lots of pictures, sharing them on the forum, and discussing your rationale for your choices. Would be interesting and beneficial plus you're then the expert.

Keep us posted.
Abuelo is offline  
Old 06-30-2016, 01:17 AM
  #3  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Thumbs up

Thank you for the advice. I also was able to speak with Guillow. Both of you were helpful. I have attempted to upload a photo of my plane. If it's not here I will attempt again later to get that done.
As you may see the right side of the horizontal stabilizer is broken. There is also about a 10 degree dihedral angle built into the wings. Guillow suggested I eliminate that.
I'm beginning to think it a good idea to use this airframe as a mock up for this project since I could easily destroy it trying to remove the tail and wings. I found a Fairchild 24 kit on ebay should I decide to start from scratch. I also need the blueprints so nothing lost there.
As for the electronics, I have gone with an E-Flight 180 and10A ESC, a four channel Spectrum reciever and a 2 servo HiTec. The prop will be 5.5/4.5.
I am still very much interested in comments or advice. I am sure I will need all of that that I can get.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Fairchild24.JPG (730.8 KB, 573 views)
potatomasher is offline  
Old 08-24-2016, 10:26 PM
  #4  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default ready for first flight

I came to realize that trying to convert my existing Fairchild 24 to RC was not very practicable. I went ahead with the new kit and assembled it while doing my best to accommodate the RC modifications.
The tail and stabilizer beef ups were not very difficult. The photos showing the stabilizer and tail laid out on the work board do not show the notch I had to cut on the stabilizer front cross brace allowing it to move freely when actuated. The Guillow rubber motor kit's tail was fixed so modifications needed be made to the airframe's tail end and flight control surfaces allowing stabilizer movement up and down.
I placed the two servos on a platform as close to the tail as I thought best. When all was done I felt that part of the project was going to work well.
The battery location is just in front of the servos. With the motor and propeller installed the center of gravity only needed a dime glued at the very end of the tail to level things up.
I installed the motor/propeller and was ready for a full power run-up. That was when there was a problem. I smoked the motor. I will make a long story short and say the problem was the propeller was too big for the motor.
Being that all components where recommended by my local hobby shop and my installation was not at fault they offered to replace the motor and provide a different propeller. I am waiting for the new parts now.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_2909-1.JPG (550.7 KB, 461 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_2868.JPG (727.9 KB, 406 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_2873.JPG (410.4 KB, 440 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_2882.JPG (492.7 KB, 426 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_2891.JPG (545.8 KB, 433 views)
potatomasher is offline  
Old 08-24-2016, 11:09 PM
  #5  
Glacier Girl
Kamikaze Ace
 
Glacier Girl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 2,161
Default

Nice work! If possible make it so you can slide the pack or esc back farther so you can loose the dime.

And with the hobby shop, have them demo the new motor/prop before you go home with it. I'd be a little leary of a shop that specs out something that didn't work.
Glacier Girl is offline  
Old 08-24-2016, 11:21 PM
  #6  
Brner
AMA16634
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 554
Default

Nice work....and good choice to just build another one....
Brner is offline  
Old 08-25-2016, 12:44 AM
  #7  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default

Thank you.
In all fairness, the hobby shop has asked me to come in when the parts arrive. They want to see what happens this time.
I will report what happens...
potatomasher is offline  
Old 08-25-2016, 11:50 PM
  #8  
hayofstacks
Super Contributor
 
hayofstacks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,780
Default

That's a good sounding hobby shop right there. Admitting to a mistake and fixing it. Sounds like you are in good hands.
hayofstacks is offline  
Old 09-01-2016, 05:51 PM
  #9  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default

I’m still waiting for the new E-Flite Park 180 to arrive at the hobby shop.
In the interim, I have been studying and still trying to learn how to make the power system work properly. As noted above, I started out with a 3 cell 11.1 volt Li-Po and 10 amp ESC with a 5.5X4.5 prop. My guess is that the 180 was the weak link that could not withstand the heat of the battery power available and the hi-performance prop power demand when I went to full throttle. I was holding the model in my hand and was at full power for about 15 seconds. I think the Fairchild would have shot through the air like a rocket had I let go!
My Fairchild weighs just over 5oz without it’s motor and prop. I am looking at something like a 6x3 slow flight prop for my next run-up and soon to follow flight.
Am I looking at a motor that is not up to the job?
I welcome suggestions.
potatomasher is offline  
Old 09-02-2016, 06:54 PM
  #10  
Abuelo
Member
 
Abuelo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Arizona desert
Posts: 320
Default

Your setup sounds fine for that weight of a scale plane, with the exception of the prop. I'd guess the 5.5 x 4.5 prop was taking a too-big bite out of the air; a 5 x 3 should be adequate.

If you haven't seen the specs, here is the E-flite site on the 180. http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...rodID=EFLM1120

Or, bump up the motor to a 250 sport.

Keep us posted.
Abuelo is offline  
Old 09-02-2016, 07:31 PM
  #11  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default

Not sure why things are taking so long with the new 180 replacement. Maybe E-Flite feels it is not their fault that I used an incorrect prop for the motor.
I think I will go with the 250 sport and a 5x3 prop. Since I have a 3 cell pack already, I think the extra wattage up front could do no harm.
Yes, I will let you know how it works out. Thank you very much for all the suggestions you have offered.
potatomasher is offline  
Old 09-16-2016, 12:42 AM
  #12  
stemo99
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: So. Jersey
Posts: 43
Default

If it's kv is really 2200, that seems way too much on 3S. I would go a kv of 1000 or so on 3S or 2S with the 2200kv. Get a wattmeter to avoid more burned up electronics.
stemo99 is offline  
Old 09-16-2016, 03:16 PM
  #13  
ron_van_sommeren
homo ludens modelisticus
 
ron_van_sommeren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: near Nijmegen, Nederland
Posts: 1,142
Default

With Kv=2200rpm/volt and 3x4volt, unloaded rpm would be 27,000rpm, a screamer.

Motorcurrent is proportional to voltage squared, and proportional to Kv cubed. Current at Kv = 2200rpm/volt would be (2200/1000)= 10 times the current at Kv = 1000rpm/volt.
extra current with one or two cells added, simple table

Kv says nothing about the max.power and current a motor can handle/deliver!


To trust is good, to calculate is better, to measure is a must.
Without a watt-meter you are in the dark, until something starts to glow
A watt-meter will more than pay for itself, several times over, your battery, ESC and motor will love you for it. After calculating, always check current when you have a new/changed setup. Will also help you find optimal setup.
close out sale: Hyperion watt-meter II (optical tach, servo tester, remote logging)


Some well-structured reading and handy e-tools for rainy/windy days. Will save you, and us , a lot of questions. Notably the 'what went wrong?' kind of questions
Will also prevent you from burning up several controllers and/or motors and/or battery:
E-flight primer and tools
ron_van_sommeren is offline  
Old 09-22-2016, 09:11 PM
  #14  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default

How many poles does the Park 250 outrunner have?
potatomasher is offline  
Old 09-22-2016, 11:42 PM
  #15  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default

Good advise from you all. Thank you!
After a few phone chats with Horizon Hobby I have come to the conclusion that the 3S battery was probably the problem. So now, I am using a 2S battery and a Park 250. My prop choices will be either a 8x6 slow flyer or the 5.5x4.5. Your are opinions welcome.
I am waiting for a watt meter to arrive. I will be using that during my run-up testing.
I think I have figured out how to program the ESC.
I still have one question for you all. What do you recommend for takeoff technique? A hand launch or rolling? Despite the center of gravity being where it should be the model has dove to the ground when hand launched. No serious damage except for the landing gear's wooden struts. I have removed what is left of them. The wire gear should work; maybe the wheel skirts with rotate excessively? Will see what happens there.
potatomasher is offline  
Old 10-03-2016, 09:07 PM
  #16  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default Waiting for Watt Meter

The project goes on.
I learned the Park 250 has 12 poles. I programed the ESC appropriately.
The Fairchild is about finished and ready to take to the air. I will use a 6x4E prop. The watt meter is somewhere between the shipper and me. Hope to see it soon. The meter is a Hobby King HK-010. If any of you can advise me if I will need to order some connectors (is so, which ones) or will it be ready to use out of the box??
When the long awaited day arrives I will try to experiment on the ground. If all looks good I will pull the stick back at 55 watts power and see what happens!?
I appreciate your patience. I keep telling myself there is no such thing as a dump question. I'm sure I have put that quote to the test.
potatomasher is offline  
Old 10-03-2016, 09:59 PM
  #17  
ron_van_sommeren
homo ludens modelisticus
 
ron_van_sommeren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: near Nijmegen, Nederland
Posts: 1,142
Default

Originally Posted by potatomasher View Post
How many poles does the Park 250 outrunner have?
The controller wants to know number of magnetpoles, not the number of statorpoles/coils. The controller will work perfectly if you enter the wrong number of poles, it's just the rpm reading that will be wrong. E.g. if the given number of magnetpoles is twice too high, the rpm reading will be halved.

No coils



10magnetpole rotor



Magnetism simulation, 9statorpoles, 12magnetpoles in the rotor, no coils



Magnetism simulaton, 12statorpoles, 12magnetpoles, no coils
ron_van_sommeren is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 11:09 PM
  #18  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default

Do any of you have experience connecting the mail/female JST RCY connecters on the E-flite 10-Amp Pro Brusheess ESC and E-flite LiPo battery to the Hobby King HK-010 watt meter? Looks like I will need some transition connectors for my power check. I would like to order what I need while waiting for the meter.

Last edited by potatomasher; 10-08-2016 at 05:27 AM.
potatomasher is offline  
Old 10-10-2016, 11:07 PM
  #19  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default

More time spent on the internet and I have found XT60/JST connectors/adapters that should work. Only problem is the time required to ship from China. Patience is a virtue.

Last edited by potatomasher; 12-08-2016 at 06:47 PM.
potatomasher is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 07:00 PM
  #20  
potatomasher
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 12
Default

Not a happy ending! My Fairchild crashed on takeoff. I could have avoided this, I think, had I spent some time testing hand launching toward a soft landing area and then making adjustments to obtain stable level flight. After doing that perhaps a hand launch would have worked? As it turned out I was unable to make control inputs soon enough to prevent the crash. I could have checked into a rolling take off as well though the tendency for my Fairchild to ground loop is a concern.
The damage is serious but repairable. I will update you all as things progress.
potatomasher is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 11:10 PM
  #21  
Brner
AMA16634
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 554
Default

Sorry to hear of your crash....but you'll be back in the air in no time. With the weather that's been hitting us, lots of time in the work shop......
Brner is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rolling Thunder
Informal Clubs
2931
07-30-2017 05:27 AM
earthsciteach
General Electric Discussions
3
09-28-2011 03:25 PM
earthsciteach
General Electric Discussions
10
09-28-2011 07:01 AM
skyman
Foamies
4
09-04-2011 04:38 AM
dumo01
Scratch and Kit Built Aircraft
36
04-03-2011 10:52 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Quick Reply: Fairchild 24 rc build info


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.

Page generated in 0.15039 seconds with 19 queries