remotebandit

Hey all , i hate wasting peoples time on forums with re-occuring questions so have traced my querie back for the last 2 hours with no answer in past posts so heres my question .

I am running 2 x 3500kv motors in ducted fan configuration and 2 x Phoenix 25 escs to run them . I want to know if its possible to shorten the esc output and motor wires as i want to install the esc in the back of the ducted fan tube and just want to neaten it up .

Thanx guys .

Adam .

Angler-Hi

Yes you can friend. All you have to do is cut the wires to the length you want them, then solder on either the gold connectors to the motor or the female ends to those connectors to the ESC. Do you plan on shortening the wires from both the motor and the ESC, or just one or the other? Either way, it's a very simple process. Good luck to you.

Mike

Biplane Murphy

You can, but just make certain the wires are EXACTLY the same length...And be very careful when soldering connectors etc...so you don't overheat anything...



Edit...LOL....Mike was faster on the keyboard...

Angler-Hi

Good point!

remotebandit

Ahh yes , there you go now i remember why i had the concern about this issue and BM hit it spot regarding the same length wires .

I was actually considering cutting back most of both esc and motor wires as i have 30cm total and want to trim it down to about 8cm .

As far as connectors go , i was just planning on cutting them , soldering the bare wires together then heatshrinking them , plugs will not be neccessary ?

Thanx heaps for the info guys , i will keep you posted on my project once i get her off the ground .

Adam .

Biplane Murphy

Perhaps test run the setup before cutting wires, then label both sets of wires before cutting and soldering.....just to make sure of motor operation direction....

SkunkyMagoo

Great point.

Also what about maintenance? Burned up ESC? Bent Shaft? I would just use gold connectors for easy removal and replacement parts, etc etc.

ron_van_sommeren

Better to have long motor wires instead of long battery wires. Long battery wires may kill your ESC. This goes for all makes.

1. Schulze controllers and battery lead length
   http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.de/tips_e.htm
2. Castle Controllers and battery lead length
   http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1537846&postcount=28
   http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4833040&postcount=5
   http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=25
3. Bob Boucher (Astrobob, http://www.astroflight.com) on long battery leads
   http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32
4. As a rule of thumb, for every 4inch/10cm extra length/distance between battery and ESC, add an extra 220uF capacity near the controller (electrolytic condensators, voltage the same as the capacitors already installed, low ESR type) (Ludwich Retzbach, German e-flight author, the 'R' in LRK).
5. How to add extra capacitors (English and German)
   http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.d...e/gfutc-de.pdf
6. In depth discussion
   http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...27#post1518827

Vriendelijke groeten Ron

Bub Steve

Ouch!!!!!!!!!!!No probs (yet-40+ flights) But as I know Ron as the smartist electro bub on the site so I'm start'in to worry>Hate to lose my favorate plane ( twin HugesXII Monkey-Chopper), Should I worry??(see pix's) bub,steve

constantCrash

Okay, i just read that whole thread on RCG about motor vs battery wire length, and am 100% confused.

Dr Kiwi

You shouldn't be - all the gurus agree that, especially on higher voltage, higher current systems, long battery wires are a no, no - without additional capacitors, high induced voltage spikes fry ESCs.

Long motor wires only lose you a bit of power - no danger of blowing anything up.

CHELLIE

Hi Adam be careful with the motor wires, sometimes the motor wires are the coil wires extended out, and if you dont get them all cleaned up real good, remove all the varnish , and tint them, your motor will single Phase, and not work, but just chatter, ask me how I know I would leave the motor wires alone, and just cut the ESC wires, just my 2 cents worth, Take Care, Chellie

ron_van_sommeren

What's the temperature of the standard ESC input capacitors after flying? (Flying at full throttle AND after flying at partial load). They may/will not die right away of course but their life expectancy might be shorter.

Vriendelijke groeten Ron

</are>

Bub Steve

Thanks Ron, your da best, bub,steve

Bub Steve

Ron:: by the way ,, per your info I'll be fly'in a partial thottle 90% of the time as any more and the capacitors get a might toastie!!your bub, steve

remotebandit

What value Capacitor are we talking , im assuming atleast 1000uf to have something with a bit of punch yeah ?

Someone mentioned coils in the wires , i didnt think about coils in the wire but along those lines as well in that i assumed the wires internal resistance was another issue in the shortening as that .1 or so of an ohm might have been critical .

Thanx blokes , all this info is sensational and im soooo happy to be born in an age where you simply post a question on a computer and you get an answer to anything .

Adam

ron_van_sommeren

See post #8, items 4 and 5.

'Punch' is not the issue here. These capacitors only have one role in life, suppressing voltage spikes on the ESC's input power lines (due to switching in the ESC and inductance in the battery wires.
I know the car people like to kid themself with 'power capacitors' but that's all bovine manure, as any first grade EE can tell you.

Vriendelijke groeten Ron

Bub Steve

Chellie:: thanks my Bub'ett you just got my chater'in KMS3121 & my 1209-18Tto spinn'in their butts off again ,,Yaaaaa!!I cleaned and washed um with acetone then sanded um till they shined up,Tinned um Yata-Yata,Then plugged um up and Woop'pee! we take'in the old Se5A for a spin , bub steve PS the Se5A seen a few motor changes in her time ,,,,,

2006040

hi guys, i recently tried to replace my brushless motor in my RC Art tech cessna 182. However, the motor replacement which i got did not work properly as the metal male connecters on the end of the wires were encased in rubber which was very stretchy they kept coming out. Because of this, the connecters were not touching the wires properly coming from the motor and so the current could not pass through them. In order to fix this, i tried to cut the end of the wires off and replace them with the end of the wires which i had on the original motor. I bared the wires, soldiered them together and wrapped them in electricians tape. However now, the motor does not seem to be working at all. I am very unsure as to why this is, can anybody help me?

cheshireflyer

Hi

I tried this but forgot that each "wire" is made up from the ends of enameled wire from each winding. You have to scrape each strand of wire in each of the 3 wires otherwise as has been said the motor will single phase and run at about 20 rpm.

Been there have the shirt. One day I will get the motor out and follow my own instructions !

Pete

ron_van_sommeren

Heat wire on real Aspirin with soldering iron to remove insulation. Acrid fumes.
Bad connection may burn motor and/or controller.

Vriendelijke groeten Ron
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