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How Do I Mount My Outrunner Motor ?

Old 09-02-2009, 10:18 PM
  #101  
Numbthumbs
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Ain't pretty, but did the job Chellie, thanks!
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:24 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Numbthumbs View Post
Ain't pretty, but did the job Chellie, thanks!
Thats all that Matters Now get off your PC and go Fly Take care, Chellie
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Old 09-12-2009, 01:48 AM
  #103  
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Default Nylon Standoffs

What do you guys think about using the nylon standoffs from the hardware store? I have two 1" standoffs stacked with a bolt through them. Do you think I'm asking for trouble? I have a GP Reactor with a backmounted outrunner to do and I want to keep it light.
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:31 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by PropSpinner View Post
What do you guys think about using the nylon standoffs from the hardware store? I have two 1" standoffs stacked with a bolt through them. Do you think I'm asking for trouble? I have a GP Reactor with a backmounted outrunner to do and I want to keep it light.
That looks Good to me Nice and strong, check it after a few flights, but i think its fine, use some blue locktight on the threads, for cheap insurance, Take Care and have fun, Chellie
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Old 09-12-2009, 01:24 PM
  #105  
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PropSpinner
I think the concept is a good one and the closer to the firewall you keep it the better it becomes. I have seen aluminum threaded studs used in a similar fashion with good results reported. IMHO, Nylon is softer in composition (than aluminum) and Motor torque could cause unwanted twist, likely unpredictable at different throttle settings.(imagine the posts being 6" long). Bracing the four posts one to the other by forming a "box" with each post as a corner would make this "bullet proof" ....well almost (I'm sure I would hit something hard enough lol). Since Nylon is almost impossible to glue then you are stuck trying to "weld" any bracing (acetate sheet??) to it with a "hot knife" ...carefully! If you could use the shorter posts...say <1/2"... any twist becomes negligible. I really would like to hear the outcome as I'm always looking at better and different ways to do things while saving weight.
CC
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Old 09-13-2009, 01:00 AM
  #106  
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Default Standoffs

I used two 1" nylon spacers to get the prop where the Ultra Stick instructions said it should be. I had to put weight in the tail to get it to balance for good aerobatic flight. I was thinking about removing one of the spacers so I could take some lead out of the tail but I don't know how it will change flight characteristics , if it changes them at all. Right now it hovers fairly nice for an old stick plane and I can actually get a okay knife edge out of it. I actually got it into a knife edge flight and snapped it a couple of times back to a knife edge the last time I flew. It's my first real electric plane and my favorite Sunday flyer.

I'm real new to this electric thing and have not touched my slimers for over a year. I'm actually down to four glow planes and have about eight electrics. Half the fun is figuring out the setups to use on the planes. I think I'm going to use the Rimfire mount on my Reactor. I found one in the LHS and it's not as heavy and clunky as I thought it would be.
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Old 09-13-2009, 02:03 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by PropSpinner View Post
I used two 1" nylon spacers to get the prop where the Ultra Stick instructions said it should be. I had to put weight in the tail to get it to balance for good aerobatic flight. I was thinking about removing one of the spacers so I could take some lead out of the tail but I don't know how it will change flight characteristics , if it changes them at all. Right now it hovers fairly nice for an old stick plane and I can actually get a okay knife edge out of it. I actually got it into a knife edge flight and snapped it a couple of times back to a knife edge the last time I flew. It's my first real electric plane and my favorite Sunday flyer.

I'm real new to this electric thing and have not touched my slimers for over a year. I'm actually down to four glow planes and have about eight electrics. Half the fun is figuring out the setups to use on the planes. I think I'm going to use the Rimfire mount on my Reactor. I found one in the LHS and it's not as heavy and clunky as I thought it would be.
That Does My Heart Good, to know that you converted from Nitro Slimers to E Power Yeaaaa There is No Turning back Now Take care, Chellie
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:49 AM
  #108  
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Default math for angles over short distances

This is a SUPER thread and i'd like to give my .02 worth.
to figure down/side thrust here is the formula.
.017 per degree - per inch.
Example--say your motor mount is two inches and you want 2 deg. angle.
2x.017 =.034 X 2 inches = .068
For those not familiar with measuring in thousanths .062 is 1/16 inch.
1/16 over 2 inches would be very close to 2 deg.
I hope this helps.
Keith C.
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:18 AM
  #109  
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Thank you keith that will help a lot if people dont have a degree tool to use, take care, Chellie
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:29 AM
  #110  
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Default Angles measured relative to what ?

Chellie :

Got a odd question, but it has been bothering my flying buddy and I,
and since we live out in the sticks and fly on my own property we
don't have the resources of club members to rely on.
Since you do a lot of scratch building I would believe you would know.

The down and right thrust angles are measured relative to what ?.

The firewall for both angles ? What if the firewall is not parallel and
perpendicular to the fuselage ?

The horizontal plane of the wing for the down thrust,
and the center line of the fuselage for the right thrust ? What if the
wing has an incidence to it ?

In my old gas powered days..... ah... 25 years ago, we just put a
washer under the motor and hoped for the best, not much measuring
going on.

Bob
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Old 09-17-2009, 05:29 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by Wisc-BK View Post
Chellie :

Got a odd question, but it has been bothering my flying buddy and I,
and since we live out in the sticks and fly on my own property we
don't have the resources of club members to rely on.
Since you do a lot of scratch building I would believe you would know.

The down and right thrust angles are measured relative to what ?.

The firewall for both angles ? What if the firewall is not parallel and
perpendicular to the fuselage ?

The horizontal plane of the wing for the down thrust,
and the center line of the fuselage for the right thrust ? What if the
wing has an incidence to it ?

In my old gas powered days..... ah... 25 years ago, we just put a
washer under the motor and hoped for the best, not much measuring
going on.

Bob
Hi Bob on my planes, i use 0-0 incedence on the main wing and stabilizer, and make sure the fuselage is level, after i do that, i put levels on the wing, and a extention tube on the motor shaft, and use a small angle finder to check the down thrust, most of the time you can just use your eye to set it up, by looking down the fuselage for any right thrust, and down thrust, i make sure that my firewall is straight and level, I have been flying model planes for over 40 years, that its just second nature to get a good setup most of the time, I must admit i do use the TLAR method, and double check with levels and angle gauges, and normally get it right on, but you always have to fly and see too I have a angle Gauge finder from harbor frieght tools that i check down thrust with, on the extention tube on the motor with the wings level and elevator level, its easy to do, all the work is done for me with the angle finder Take care, Chellie

just a sample of my crude level tools






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Old 09-18-2009, 05:38 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Hi Bob on my planes, i use 0-0 incedence on the main wing and stabilizer, and make sure the fuselage is level, after i do that, i put levels on the wing, and a extention tube on the motor shaft, and use a small angle finder to check the down thrust, most of the time you can just use your eye to set it up, by looking down the fuselage for any right thrust, and down thrust, i make sure that my firewall is straight and level, I have been flying model planes for over 40 years, that its just second nature to get a good setup most of the time, I must admit i do use the TLAR method, and double check with levels and angle gauges, and normally get it right on, but you always have to fly and see too I have a angle Gauge finder from harbor frieght tools that i check down thrust with, on the extention tube on the motor with the wings level and elevator level, its easy to do, all the work is done for me with the angle finder Take care, Chellie

just a sample of my crude level tools






Ms Chellie,
Being a person not hesitant to ask directions -- what does "TLAR Method" mean??
Thanks, conRman
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:35 AM
  #113  
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Hi ConRman and Welcome To Wattflyers, TLAR means --- That, Looks, About, Right--- -- Its just some Jardon that we use here, Take care, Chellie



I Must Admit that getting the down thrust and right thrust on My Giant Biplane was a little more difficult than most builds I have done, But i did it LOL
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42680




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Old 09-19-2009, 12:04 AM
  #114  
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I had a Motor mount firewall failure in mid flight today.

But, I managed to glide it in and land just as if it had a motor and power. I went for a full throttle climb just before I was planning on landing and Bam.. the motor flew out one way and landed safely on the grass. My aircraft still had power to the control surfaces and I was able to turn and glide it in for a perfect landing.





I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the ply to the FFF. I did forget to peel the film on that section. Would that have caused the failure?

Is there a proper way to mount this motor to a full fuse FFF Foamie?
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Old 09-19-2009, 01:12 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Cdr. Instigator View Post
I had a Motor mount firewall failure in mid flight today.

But, I managed to glide it in and land just as if it had a motor and power. I went for a full throttle climb just before I was planning on landing and Bam.. the motor flew out one way and landed safely on the grass. My aircraft still had power to the control surfaces and I was able to turn and glide it in for a perfect landing.





I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the ply to the FFF. I did forget to peel the film on that section. Would that have caused the failure?

Is there a proper way to mount this motor to a full fuse FFF Foamie?
I think the film left on was 99% of the problem also add some wood to the inside of the fuselage on the sides about 2" back from the front, and epoxy the the wood to the foam and wood, ( Remove film ) that will give you a lot of strength, because it looks like you have a very big motor in that plane, If you can, add some balsa triangle wood to the back side corners of the wood motor mount, on the sides, Hope that helps, Chellie

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Old 09-19-2009, 02:02 AM
  #116  
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Will do CHELLIE, Thanx for posting a reference picture. That helps a lot..

I had originally installed an E-Flight 370 1080kv on it and a 12AMP ESC on it's maiden flight it looked and flew like it needed more power. AUW with that set up came to around 12 to 14 oz depending on the battery I was using. It flew real calm and very slow. On it's first nose reconstruction I did. I went ahead and replaced the 370 with 2826-1650 using a 9X6 E APC prop on a 25AMP ESC. Battery I now used is an 1800mAh 3S and a 2200mAh 3S. It made this now 14+oz full fuse E-Flight Funtana Clone come alive.
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Old 09-19-2009, 02:12 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Cdr. Instigator View Post
Will do CHELLIE, Thanx for posting a reference picture. That helps a lot..

I had originally installed an E-Flight 370 1080kv on it and a 12AMP ESC on it's maiden flight it looked and flew like it needed more power. AUW with that set up came to around 12 to 14 oz depending on the battery I was using. It flew real calm and very slow. On it's first nose reconstruction I did. I went ahead and replaced the 370 with 2826-1650 using a 9X6 E APC prop on a 25AMP ESC. Battery I now used is an 1800mAh 3S and a 2200mAh 3S. It made this now 14+oz full fuse E-Flight Funtana Clone come alive.
Dang thats a lot of power check your amp draw with a wattmeter, you might be a little high on the amp draw with a 1650kv motor and a 9x6 prop on 3 cells, take care, Chellie

odel: TR28-26-1650
Kv: 1650
Voltage: 6~12v
Thrust: 200~500g
Weight: 45g
Shaft: 3.17mm
Length: 27mm
ESC Required: 18A
Suggested Prop: 2cell:8x4 / 3cell:7x4 ************************************
Power: 140W
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:28 AM
  #118  
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Well, then I either get some new props or i replace it with another brushless TR 2830-1050..

Can I use that with this 25Amp ESC and 9X6 Props I have?

Or do I use a the 2826 and a 12AMP ESC with 7X4

I dont have a watt meter at the moment.
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:43 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Cdr. Instigator View Post
Well, then I either get some new props or i replace it with another brushless TR 2830-1050..

Can I use that with this 25Amp ESC and 9X6 Props I have?

Or do I use a the 2826 and a 12AMP ESC with 7X4

I dont have a watt meter at the moment.
use the 25 amp ESC, with the 2830-1050 and your 9x6 prop, only use your 12 amp ESC with small micro motors, that dont draw very much amps, and as soon as possible get a 9x5 prop, dont use WOT for very long 5 -10 seconds with a 9x6 prop.

Propeller test data for the 2830-11 with a 3-cell Lipo battery:
It's a good idea to balance all propellers with a Propeller Balancer before using them on this motor. TP propellers are available in our store, and are nearly identical in performance to APC props. Rotating propellers are dangerous. Please stay clear of prop and wear eye protection.
GWS EP9050:30 ounces of thrust at 16 amps. Excellent prop for this motor.
GWS EP9050x3 3-blade:32 ounces of thrust at 17 amps. Avoid constant wide open throttle.
GWS EP8040:23 ounces of thrust at 10.5 amps.
GWS EP8040x3 3-blade:24 ounces of thrust at 12 amps. Good choice for scale looks.
TP 8 x 4E: 24 oz thrust at 14 amps.
GWS HD8060:24 ounces of thrust at 15 amps.
TP 8 x 6: 24 oz thrust at 18 amps. Exceeds recommended maximum amps.
TP 7 x 6: 19 oz thrust at 11.5 amps.
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:51 AM
  #120  
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Thank you very much CHELLIE.. You are an Angel..
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:05 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Cdr. Instigator View Post
Thank you very much CHELLIE.. You are an Angel..

Check post 101 in this thread for a crude description of what she is describing. That mount would not come off in a tornado. In fact a crash totaled the plane, and the mount was still in tact. Thanks to Chellies advice, I now use this tactic for all my Depron foamys and have not had any probs since. Here is another photo of the same principle on a balsa stick. I only use hot glue, it holds wood to styrofoam very neatly, and wood to wood super as well.

I much prefer balsa fuses lately to foam fuses because you don't have to mess with thrust angle. You just mount the motor right in the middle of the stick and it is perfect every time. You also don't have to worry about using overly strong motors because you won't torque the balsa at full throttle.
EDIT- This mount easily held a motor kicking out 236W and 1.5 lbs of thrust.

Here is how I do it:
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:19 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Numbthumbs View Post
Check post 101 in this thread for a crude description of what she is describing. That mount would not come off in a tornado. In fact a crash totaled the plane, and the mount was still in tact. Thanks to Chellies advice, I now use this tactic for all my Depron foamys and have not had any probs since. Here is another photo of the same principle on a balsa stick. I only use hot glue, it holds wood to styrofoam very neatly, and wood to wood super as well.

I much prefer balsa fuses lately to foam fuses because you don't have to mess with thrust angle. You just mount the motor right in the middle of the stick and it is perfect every time. You also don't have to worry about using overly strong motors because you won't torque the balsa at full throttle.
EDIT- This mount easily held a motor kicking out 236W and 1.5 lbs of thrust.

Here is how I do it:
Hi Numbthumbs Thank you for the complements, That brace works good for profile foam planes, on a full fuselage, its a little different, the braces go to the inside, its about the same idea, add a lot of thin wood, and you will be ok I have just learned a lot of this stuff here on wattflyers, and i just pass on what I have learned, because i have come up against the same problems too, and have looked for ways to fix them, and Wattflyers has been a huge source of Valuable Information, Thanks Everyone, I Have Learned Well and I just Pass on what I have learned, and you guys will do the same thing too when other people come across this same problem and ask for help, Soooo we all help out each other, Thats the way it should be and thats what makes this Hobby FUN Take care and Have fun, Chellie
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:42 PM
  #123  
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Thanks CHELLIE, here is my redone motor mount..

Film has been removed on the FFF and I have installed it with 5 minute epoxy and I have tested it..

I went ahead and installed the TR2830 with the 25Amp ECS and 3S 1250/1800/2200 batteries..
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Old 09-20-2009, 01:42 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Cdr. Instigator View Post
Thanks CHELLIE, here is my redone motor mount..

Film has been removed on the FFF and I have installed it with 5 minute epoxy and I have tested it..

I went ahead and installed the TR2830 with the 25Amp ECS and 3S 1250/1800/2200 batteries..
Wow, that looks great I dont think you will have anymore problems with the motor mount now Take care, Chellie
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:49 AM
  #125  
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Awesome dude, now your mount will outlive your plane hehe.
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