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How Do I Mount My Outrunner Motor ?

Old 05-21-2009, 07:24 AM
  #76  
CHELLIE
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Originally Posted by Neogenesis View Post
There is one option I haven't seen here yet. How to mount a 50-65 270kv outrunner to a profile. Specifically I'm working on converting a OMP 67" Fusion. I've had to cut the old hardwood glow rails out to make room for the outrunner, and at this point am thinking of basically fitting a firewall in to mount the motor to. Using some triangle stock to reinforce and some angle aluminum to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. Anyone one else ever converted a profile?

Thanks,

Scott
Maybe this might help, epoxy the sides to the foam, with some spacers in the foam to prevent crushing of the foam, and bolt it on, use epoxy to glue the 1/4" plywood together, hope that helps, Take care, Chellie

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Old 06-04-2009, 06:29 AM
  #77  
Larry G
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I like to make my own wood mounts. It allows the motor to break away in a crash rather than bend the motor shaft and lessens the damage to the fuselage. On foam kits I glue it to the firewall with epoxy.



This snapped off during a rough belly landing, I just re-glued it with some Gorrilla glue and its working fine.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:01 AM
  #78  
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Here is the motor mount I came up with for my GWS-190. I wanted something I could adjust easily in case I wanted to move the motor forward or back for balance. I glued plywood to two sides of the fuselage front "octagon", then screwed on two side panels which in turn screw to a plywood firewall. If I want to move it back any further I will have to trim the side pieces. I was able to hog out the air channels in the foam for better cooling air flow. Plenty of room for the ESC, and the cowl clears fine.


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Old 06-09-2009, 09:11 AM
  #79  
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Thats a great Idea Larry, Thank you for sharing, Take care, Chellie
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Old 06-14-2009, 12:30 AM
  #80  
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I stumbled on to this thread as I am just in the early thought processes of scratch building a twin this winter...more on that later. A great collection of mounts, Chellie, and inspired others to chime in..., Enter moi.
I work mostly around boats, repair, inspection etc so most of my engineering and thinking wraps around the materials we use and see on a regular basis. alot of hitech materials used in rc flying we see in ultra light boat construction. found this in a local marine wholesalers show room and had to try it. Its Coosa board, high density foam re-enforced with two layers of glass near each surface. Density is the same as balsa (average) at 15 lbs/cu.ft. Machines well, can be drilled and tapped for machine screws 4-40 etc and plan on screwing motor cowl into sides ahead of firewall. Structurally it replaces plywood in boat construction so its STRONG. This mount is for my 3 lb 109. and only had 1/2" on my shelf. Would have used 1/4" and drilled smaller lightning holes. In its bench configuration I stood on it and it didn't even wimper..tried to take a picture of that but ...you get the picture LOL.
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Old 06-14-2009, 03:35 AM
  #81  
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Here is one I just did. Wanted to put a little more power in my Sig Cub so I pulled the E-Flight Power 46 and installed a Hacker A50-12S. Was an extremely tight fit but I got it done.

The previous installation required lead in the nose to balance so no attempt to lighten the mount was made. After Hacker was installed balanced with no lead.

Speed control visible mounted below the motor.

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Old 07-26-2009, 07:08 AM
  #82  
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Thanks,Chellie
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Old 07-26-2009, 10:25 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Ling View Post
Thanks,Chellie
Hi Ling Welcome to Wattflyers, Hope this thread has helped you, at first, I was having a lot of trouble trying to mount different motors, and every motor seems to be a little different in the mountings, I finally learned to mount most of my motors ok, and knew, others were having difficulty too mounting motors, and were not aware of what products were out there to use, I knew that I did not know all the ways to mount motors, so I asked everyone to add to this thread, how they install there motors, and there was a lot of new ways of doing it by a lot of creative people, Happy flying,Take care and have fun, Chellie
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Old 07-26-2009, 04:25 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Hi Ling Welcome to Wattflyers, Hope this thread has helped you, at first, I was having a lot of trouble trying to mount different motors, and every motor seems to be a little different in the mountings, I finally learned to mount most of my motors ok, and knew, others were having difficulty too mounting motors, and were not aware of what products were out there to use, I knew that I did not know all the ways to mount motors, so I asked everyone to add to this thread, how they install there motors, and there was a lot of new ways of doing it by a lot of creative people, Happy flying,Take care and have fun, Chellie

Anyway,you r all my predecessors,thanks twice,I will study hard

Rgds
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:21 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
and some more motor mounts


What is the white thing in the middle of the prop between the nuts? I got one of thes motors and i didnt receive that with it.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:15 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by netjunky View Post
What is the white thing in the middle of the prop between the nuts? I got one of thes motors and i didnt receive that with it.
someone just made up there own prop adapter to reduce the hole in the prop to 3mm, it does not look very good to me, dont try that you can buy a 3mm prop collet adapter to fit a prop with a larger hole than 3mm, also, its best to cut the motor shaft back as far as you can, but still leave enough room for the collet adapter to slide on, reason being, is that the shorter the motor shaft is, the less chance of bending the motor shaft in a hard landing, I like to use the prop savers with the bell motors, it allows you to use a prop with a 3mm hole in it, i have found, that if you use a prop saver, and push it all the way back to the bell, and cut the motor shaft, so that 1/8" of the motor shaft sticks out of the prop saver, that you can use a collet type prop adapter with the shaft at that length, also, when using a prop saver, grind 2 flat areas on the motor shaft, where the 2 screws touch the motor shaft at, that will keep the prop saver from wanting to spin on the motor shaft, also use some blue lock tight on the 2 screws, hope that helps, Chellie

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...r-3.0mm/Detail



http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...r-3.0mm/Detail

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Old 08-13-2009, 02:18 AM
  #87  
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thanks

for the extra parts suplier and for the advice

which is better the prop adaptor or the prop saver??

and does the motor stop so its horizontal, or do you have to do something for that? im building a plane with no landing gear

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Old 08-13-2009, 05:25 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by netjunky View Post
thanks

for the extra parts suplier and for the advice

which is better the prop adaptor or the prop saver??

and does the motor stop so its horizontal, or do you have to do something for that? im building a plane with no landing gear
The prop saver is best with no landing gear, and with up to about 150 WATTS, that is most profile park flyers foamies, the prop gives on landing and will move out of its own way, with out breaking the prop, the collet type prop adapter is better for high performance and aerobatic flying, its best at over 200WATTS and for high RPM, on the prop saver adapter, sometimes you need to use a larger drill bit on one side of the prop to counter sink it a little, so the prop sits flush on the prop saver,all of my small park flyers have prop savers on them, they work great, Take care and have fun, Chellie
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Old 08-25-2009, 01:36 AM
  #89  
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I like that mount in the 1st post. I can't find the specs on the Turning motor. Does anybody know if it will fit the Hacker A20 motors?
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Old 08-25-2009, 01:52 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Octavius View Post
I like that mount in the 1st post. I can't find the specs on the Turning motor. Does anybody know if it will fit the Hacker A20 motors?

Outrunner stick mount - Shop sales, stores & prices at TheFind.com
Any 28mm motor with installation holes spaced 16mm or 19mm can be used (AXI 2208/26, 2212/34, Hacker A20 S/M/L). Can be used with Firewall Stick Mount. ...
www.thefind.com/family/info-outrunner-stick-mount -



Product
  • Store
  • Brand
    Outrunner Stick Mount
    $4.98 :: Outrunner Stick Mount Outrunner Stick Mount #EFLM1915 Shipping: Brio 10 ARF > Small Replacement Parts Cap 232 BP 3D > Small Replacement Parts Edge 540 BP 3D ARF > Misc. Replacement Parts Product Description Features Maintains the same thrustline when replacing stick mounted gearboxes with outrunner motors Complete mounting hardware included Slotted mounting holes accept 1619mm bolt spacing Perfect for mounting Park 370480 outrunner motor

    http://www.soundideasinc.com/pm-4579...ick-mount.aspx
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    Old 08-25-2009, 03:58 AM
      #91  
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    Awesome, thanks. You are just a plethora of information.
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    Old 08-25-2009, 07:25 AM
      #92  
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    Originally Posted by Octavius View Post
    Awesome, thanks. You are just a plethora of information.
    Glad to help out if I Can, Take care, Chellie
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    Old 08-25-2009, 11:54 PM
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    Turns out almost every place is out of stock. But that gave me more time to think about what I like about this mount, which is the back plate is as small or smaller than the motor diameter. Most times the big X mount goes on the back of the motor and then you need and even bigger and more ugly firewall.

    I'm sure I can fabricate these features from light-ply. At least seeing this mount helped come up with that. I might even make a jig so I can make more.
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    Old 08-28-2009, 12:00 AM
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    OK, the make my own didn't work. The spaces between the screws and motor shaft are just way too narrow to fix vertical plies into. I'll just back order a half dozen of these. I need to lay off the spending for this month anyway. Hopefully they won't charge my card until they ship.
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    Old 08-31-2009, 06:36 PM
      #95  
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    I'm sad. I ordered 4 of those mounts and today my money was refunded with a personal note saying they couldn't order any right now from E-flight and they might be out of production.
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    Old 08-31-2009, 07:18 PM
      #96  
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    Originally Posted by Octavius View Post
    I'm sad. I ordered 4 of those mounts and today my money was refunded with a personal note saying they couldn't order any right now from E-flight and they might be out of production.
    Bummer, Because I really love those Motor mounts
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    Old 08-31-2009, 07:47 PM
      #97  
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    I guess I'll go back to trying to make my own. The problem is the spacing is so tight between the mounting holes and the motor shaft, and the vertical bracing does not line up with where the sides of the motor sick are. I guess I could go with a non-standard size motor stick like 1/4 spruce. In fact that might not be a bad idea since my motors are relatively small, and LHS sells 6" motor sticks for like $2 each.
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    Old 09-02-2009, 07:19 AM
      #98  
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    Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
    Maybe this might help, epoxy the sides to the foam, with some spacers in the foam to prevent crushing of the foam, and bolt it on, use epoxy to glue the 1/4" plywood together, hope that helps, Take care, Chellie

    Hi Chellie! Great thread, as usual!

    Would this idea work for the pictures below? I tried to mount it on Polypropylene, and hot glue it to the frame, but at full throttle, the depron tore. Now my frame is shorter hehe.
    The motor MAY be a wee powerful, ahemmm, but we wants to make it work.
    Could I use a piece of 3mm ply for the firewall, reinforced with wood along the frame, as you picture it? I may use the nuts/bolts spacer idea, for ease of angle adjustments too, but I am worried about weight.
    I am kind of on my last attempt here, because after two failed attempts, my plane is getting short lol.
    Thanks,
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    Old 09-02-2009, 08:36 AM
      #99  
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    Originally Posted by Numbthumbs View Post
    Hi Chellie! Great thread, as usual!

    Would this idea work for the pictures below? I tried to mount it on Polypropylene, and hot glue it to the frame, but at full throttle, the depron tore. Now my frame is shorter hehe.
    The motor MAY be a wee powerful, ahemmm, but we wants to make it work.
    Could I use a piece of 3mm ply for the firewall, reinforced with wood along the frame, as you picture it? I may use the nuts/bolts spacer idea, for ease of angle adjustments too, but I am worried about weight.
    I am kind of on my last attempt here, because after two failed attempts, my plane is getting short lol.
    Thanks,
    Numbthumbs
    Sure that will work Better yet, slot the foam horizontal sides so you can sheet both sides of the vertical fuse the full width, about 2" back from the front, drill some holes in the foam and add some spacers for the bolts, so they dont crush the foam, brush on some 30 min epoxy or gorrila glue to the foam, and add the ply sides... on the bottom of the horizontal foam at the front, add some ply to that too, both sides on the bottom, and epoxy to the foam & plywood sides, that should be super super strong then just epoxy your firewall to the front, I have had to do this too, hope that helps, Chellie

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    Last edited by CHELLIE; 09-02-2009 at 09:31 AM.
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    Old 09-02-2009, 01:20 PM
      #100  
    Numbthumbs
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    Super idea, thanks Chellie! I will post a pic when I get it done tonight after work )
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