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BladeCx Blades

Old 01-09-2007, 01:38 AM
  #1  
darylm
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Exclamation BladeCx Blades

Any other replacement blades on the market that are more durable than the original equipment?

Daryl
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:36 AM
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constantCrash
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Default go Vortex parts

After about 30 blades, I finaly decided to try the conversion to swivel blades, like you find on the Lama and Vortex. If your local hobby store has the parts, the whole conversion should cost about 15 bucks. The blades are quieter, and fold when you hit a wall instead of shattering.

To do the conversion, you need:
Vortex blade holder set: http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=1329

Vortex blades (the whole point):
http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=1324

lower Vortex hub,:
http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=1334


vortex swashplate,:
http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=1333

vortex flybar:

Vortex hardware kit (screws and stuff):
http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=1341

You do not need to change out the inner or outer shafts.

1) remove blades and flybar.
2) remove retaining collar for inner shaft and pull out inner shaft (including the bearing on the top of the outter shaft).
3) pop the linkages off the swashplate.
4) remove the 4 screws holding the lower hub on and slide it off the outer shaft.
5) pull apart the top and bottom of the stock swashplate DON'T break it.
6) Pull apart the top and bottom of the Vortex swashplate.
7) put the top of the vortex swashplate on the bottom of the stock swashplate.
8) attach the new Vortex blade holders to the Vortex lower hub using the black pointed screws that come with the Vortex hardware bag.
9) attach the Vortex swashplate -> blade linkages through the slotted holders to both the blade holders and the swashplate you created in step 7.
10) slide the new lower hub assembly onto the outer shaft and screw it on using the black non-pointed screws in the Vortex hardware bag. (make sure to line up the holes in the outter shaft with the holes in the top of the lower hub.
11) slide the inner shaft back in place. (dont forget the top berring.)
12) re-attach the gear and retaining collar to the inner shaft (make sure to line up one of the screws with the flat area on the shaft.
13) Take the eye hole end that would attach to the blade holders off your new Vortex flybar, put it on the stock BCX flybar. (need this endpiece to fit on the Vortex blade holders.)
14) put the BCX flybar back on and snap it to the blade holders. (adjust so when flybar is level, bladeholders are level.
15) attach Vortex blades so that the leading edge of the top blades is close to the flybar. (flybar leads the blades)

After the conversion is done, you will need to adjust the linkages to get it to hover again, but I've been very happy with the conversion. You can use the vortex flybar, but since it's shorter, It's more unstable and harder to control, Save it and once your comfortable, you can swap the stock and Vortex flybars.

This same conversion might also work with Lama parts if you can find them. I'm lucky my LHS has all 3 in stock.

Good luck.

ConstantCrash.
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:40 AM
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firemanbill
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Great info Crash! I would like to do this... unfortunately the blades are out of stock at the moment
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Old 01-09-2007, 02:09 PM
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darylm
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Thanks for the info. I'll look them up with my supplier!!
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Old 01-16-2007, 03:51 AM
  #5  
mike 07734
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Default CX Blades

I am not sure if anyone has posted this or not but there is a place called bladecxpro.com They have all kinds of stuff for the cx2 with motors,blade holder and things that work with the cx 2
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Old 01-16-2007, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by mike 07734 View Post
I am not sure if anyone has posted this or not but there is a place called bladecxpro.com They have all kinds of stuff for the cx2 with motors,blade holder and things that work with the cx 2

BladeCXPro and all the other sites that are listed there, re-sell Vortex and Microheli parts under their own brand name. Frankly, i think they should be shut down if for no other reason that they don't make anything, they just re-package parts and add a markup.

Oh, and if you look around the forums you'll find this horse has been beaten multiple times already.
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Old 01-16-2007, 04:08 AM
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Ahhh,,,,,,, ok I am a pretty new person to this place so didn't know the horse had been beaten that long LOL. I had wondered about that one since I was going to try to figure out how to add brushless to my cx2 I know I would have to buy 2 motors along with more stuff. I got too many things going on now with planes,helis, elec. helis and elec. planes too. Got a Mini Ultra Stick with a Park 480 and 3 cell lipo 2200 mah. Sooooo fast it is hard to keep my old eyes up with it.
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:40 PM
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Brushless on the CX2 would be nice!! Let me know what you find out....
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Old 02-03-2007, 01:27 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by constantCrash View Post
5) pull apart the top and bottom of the stock swashplate DON'T break it.
6) Pull apart the top and bottom of the Vortex swashplate.
7) put the top of the vortex swashplate on the bottom of the stock swashplate.

ConstantCrash.

Ok, I'm trying this out. Got all the parts laid out and need to know what method you used to pry these swashplates apart. I'm worried I'm going to force and break something. Thanks in advance
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Old 02-03-2007, 01:33 PM
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The top swivel part of the cx swashplate is only friction retained. Start by pushing it up from the bottom and it should separate pretty easy after that.
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Old 02-03-2007, 01:40 PM
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Thanks Mike 117. I have both a Lama 2 and Vortex plate that I purchased. Both of them came a part fine. But this CX plate is being real difficult. Still haven't been able to separate it.
I suppose if it was easy, it would only be half as fun in the end..
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:02 PM
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The inner plastic piece comes out with the top. Don't push on the metal ring and it comes out. I'll play with mine to see if there is a easy way to remove it.
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:06 PM
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I just put a phillips screwdriver through the bottom that was slightly bigger. I pushed down on it and the top will just pop off..
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike_117 View Post
I just put a phillips screwdriver through the bottom that was slightly bigger. I pushed down on it and the top will just pop off..

Now that was clever. I actually got it a part about 5 minutes ago, but will use your technique in the future. Need to remember to think outside the box..

Thanks Mike
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:46 PM
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Ok Mike. Got another question. I bought the little hardware parts bag for the Vortex, but I don't see the 4 screw for either the blade grip holders or the 4 screws to attach the blades to the holder. Any ideas? Also, I've noticed that the upper blade grip holders have some side play when installed on the upper hub. Sorta like when you attach the Microheli CNC blade grips. Microheli provides some very small washers with their kit, did you have to scrounge up washers on your conversion, or did you not take up the side play?
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:58 PM
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I'm still waiting on parts in the mail, but did you have all the screws shown here?
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Old 02-03-2007, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike_117 View Post
I'm still waiting on parts in the mail, but did you have all the screws shown here?

Good idea Mike. That hardware kit thingy was the first thing I bought. I think I lost three blade screws trying to replace myt blades.

WOW are those suckers small! If one falls off the table you can pretty much forget about finding it. hehe All you hear is ting ting and they are gone forever!!!

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Old 02-03-2007, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike_117 View Post
I'm still waiting on parts in the mail, but did you have all the screws shown here?

Yes I did. But have not figured out which screws would work best for each application I mentioned.
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Old 02-03-2007, 05:25 PM
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I know this sounds odd, but none of these screws work for the blades or the grips. The long black non-self-tapping screws are the only one's long enough for the blades -> blade grips but they need to be self tapping. and the smaller self tapping black screws are the correct length for screwing the 2 grips together, but they are just a little to fat. I get them in 1/2 way and man that's it. Can screw them down any further. This is real frustrating. Everything on the stock Blade CX goes together so nicely. Not sure what the deal is with this hardware pack.
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Old 02-03-2007, 06:01 PM
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I downloaded the vortex manual and there is no dimensions or parts explosion diagram to reference. Although from what crash's instructions.. these would have to be the right screws...
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Old 02-03-2007, 06:55 PM
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Your correct. You just have to really bear down on them. They don't go in real easy. Almost have to force them. Next question would be the side play in the upper blade grip. The blades move back and forth 1/8". Tried some small o'rings on the upper hub posts, but they were just a tad thick and cause the blades to bind. I'll check for some thin washers later, but I'm not sure that this play will allow the blades to spin in balance.
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:59 PM
  #22  
constantCrash
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Default More info on the conversion

First of all, I'd like to say thank you to everybody who is trying this conversion. To know I helped sombody gives me great joy.
I would respond about how to get the swashes apart, but that seems to be solved. on to the blade grip screws screws.

I origianaly used the 4 black screws circled in red as Blade Grip screws to hold the blade grips together, but to get them in decently i had to drill out the blade grip holes a little bit using a 1/16" drill bit (just pinch the bit with a pliers and spin it with your hand no power tool needed.) but even then i couldn't get the grips to pinch together completely so i switched to using the big silver screws on the top left of the parts picture. This required drilling out the hole a little bigger 5/64". (this did require 2 packs of parts) now i can use a bigger phillips driver to tighten the grips. I also used some of the smaller silver screws to hold the blades.

hope this helps.
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:08 PM
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I tried a set of E-Sky Lama 2 grip holders and the Vortex screws went right in. No need for brute force. Plus the grips are a little looser on the lower hub eliminating the slight bind that the Vortex grips created. Still would like to know if anyone else felt the need to shim up the upper blade grips on the pins. Like I said before, mine have some side to side play. Enough to make me concerned if they will balance when spun up. I have not power up the chopper yet. Let my li-po finish charging.
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:27 PM
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Default more tips, plus pics

oldmanfunk,
Yeah, mine has about 1 millimeter of play on the top. I don't worry about it. flys fine. It seems that balence is not as detrimental to flight with this type of heli, I fly until all 4 blades are missing at least half an inch of blade and i can no longer tape them together.

More Tips:
1) Line the leading edges of your blades with Electrical tape. It dosn't give much if any tinsle strength, but what it does do is act as a shock absorber when you get blade strikes. (which i get alot of since i moved the servo connections out one hole.

2) Buy an extra set of blade grips because the little ball on the side tends to break off in hard crashes. (another reason to use the bigger screws since they go in and out easier.)

3) cut the plastic off the bottom of the body as shown in the picture and put a ziptie between the holes on the battery holder. This holds the battery in better and would have prevented me busting the little velcro end if I had done it before i broke it

4) when your blades break, a couple of loops of clear scotch tape work to fix it (you can see where my current blades are quite beat up and it still flys fine)

5) get a gard cat for when your not flying
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:38 PM
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I forgot one more warning. I've noticed that the swash has a tendency to slip slightly appart after a hard crash. make sure to pinch it together after a hard crash just to make sure it's tight.
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