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SkyFly Control System

Old 09-08-2006, 04:01 PM
  #1  
Sierrazulu85
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Default SkyFly Control System

Does anyone know how to, or has ever re-Made the SkyFly control system so that the elevator and rudder deflects up and down, left and right more. I am dissapointed that the airplane is not very sensative to the turns and up and down movement. I want the deflection to be greater, then it will be more aerobatic. Let me know if anyone has any ideas. I am talking about the Hobbico Flyzone SkyFly. Thank!

Szymon Z
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Old 09-09-2006, 03:24 PM
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Wind Shear
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Use the search function on this site and search for "Skyfly". I and others have posted a few mods that gives this plane more movement.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...ghlight=skyfly

I belive the above link will get you to the main one but yes it can be done. The mods described make a tremendous difference. I have never built or significantly modified anything but I did replace the foam hinges with micro hinges.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD941&P=ML





If you look close you can also see that the string is attached to the closer control horn on the rudder. This means the string goes through the hole closer to the stabilizer and then to the tightening screen rather than how you get it out of the box where the string goes through the hole further away from the stabilizer. This along with the cleaner moving hinges does a lot for the control.

The above was my first attempt. Later, when making one for my neighbor, I cut small notches into the stabilizer to reduce the gap between the elevator and stabilizer.

I used a half of a razor blade to slit the foam to slide the hinges into, foam safe CA glue and then poked the four hole per hinge that you can see (that goes through the holes in the hinges) with a pin and pushed a small piece of toothpick through (with glue on).

It truely has made a completely different plane.

Even thought there are three stock foam hinges on the elevator, I found that two replacement micro hinges were sufficient.

Hopefully the pic will come through. This is my first attempt at posting a picture. I need to learn to resize.

Good luck.
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Old 09-09-2006, 04:39 PM
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Solid Hit
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You will also get better control and effectiveness if you use some packing tape on the top to cover those huge gaps between the stabilizer and the control surface on the hinge side as evidenced by the picture. Run a strip of tape along both surfaces to cover the gap and air will be forced to the tip of the control surface instead of leaking through the gap.
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Old 09-10-2006, 05:19 AM
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Sierrazulu85
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cool.. it looks like it really can make a difference. I'll try that. Thank You!!

Simon p
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:24 PM
  #5  
Sierrazulu85
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Default Problem

HI,

So i installed the hinges but I have a huige problem. After installing the hinges, the plane look sjust like yours, but when i put the rubber band on the bottom of the control, it snaps back rather far, and the control string will not pull it back up. Again, if I pull it up by finger, it snaps up and sticks in the up UP position and the rubber band does not have strenght to pull it back down. Same with the rudder, just left and right. HOw'd you do it so that the controls work and the rudder stays neutral. when in relaxed mode and returns to that position. I even tried putting tape on the higes so that the elevator cant deflect more than some angle, but it does not work. What do i do?

Szymon Z
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:05 PM
  #6  
Wind Shear
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If you attached without notching the stabilizer the elevator ends up further away with the gap between the stabilizer and the elevator (like the picture I previously attached). This means that the distance between the two points that the rubber band attaches to are slightly further away from one another so there is more tension on the rubber band. I agree, the servos are not very strong and had a similar problem until I found a slightly longer rubber band. This puts less tension on the servo. You need to find a good mix between strong enough to keep tension on it but no so strong that the string will still pull it the other way. I use a longer rubber band. My neighbor gets away with using the stock bands as I notched his in AND he uses the control horn that is further away from the stabilizer. This give the string (servo) more torque to pull it back.

Right now I have the rudder on the inner control horn and my elevator on the outer control horn. I would like to get the elevator on the inner horn (as it give you more movement) but I need to make a new tail section (like I made for the neighbor) that is notched without such a gap.

I figured I would post a reply to the other note with a picture of my neighbors plane but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I am not a big fan of the tape. I have seen several others recommend it but it seems to cause more problems than it solves.

One other thing is to play with witch notch you attached the rubber band to on the elevator or rudder. When you attached it on the outter notch it gets a little more leverage and that can be good or bad depending on the rubber band, distance spanned, and control horn used.

My rudder control is insane (in a good way) and I can turn on a dime with the hinges installed and using the closer control horn. Once I put together a new tail section with a properly notched stabilizer I hope to get back more in my elevator but it is still much better now than when I bought it.

Hope this helps.
Good Luck
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Old 09-20-2006, 05:53 PM
  #7  
cbatters
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Many thanks for your post and pics of the micro hinge mod.

I tried the packing tape mod and moved the control line to the inner hole. Control throw increased slightly but there was a nagging memory effect where the control surfce would not return to neutral.

I kept thinking that a small hinge would be better but could not find any links to anyone using a micro hinge on a foam control surface.

I'll have to scoop some hinges and some foam safe CA glue (or use a tiny amount of epoxy)

Again, thanks for the tip.

OMT: At least on my plane, it appears that the stretch of the thin fishing line is the limiting factor on control throw. When I moved the line to the inner surface, the line stretched more decreasing the benefit of moving the line to the inner hole on the control horn. Have not seen any posts on increasing the diameter of the fishing line but it might help.



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Last edited by cbatters; 09-20-2006 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:03 PM
  #8  
cbatters
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2Q

1. Did you use the Dubro hinge with 6 holes or the smaller hinge with 4 holes? (The link you posted was to the 6 hole hinges but the pics of the plane look like you used the smaller 4 hole hinges.)

2. I believe at least half of the control problem is the stretching in the control lines. Before I go to push-rods, Has anyone tried replacing the Skyfly fishing lines with more substantial lines like those used with the Aerobird Challenger? (Controls on Aerobird are solid - surfaces always return to neutral.)
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Old 09-28-2006, 05:37 AM
  #9  
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FYI - Control Line Diameter

SkyFly - .0095"
Firebird XL - .0135"
AeroBird Challenger - .0175" (Nearly 4X cross sectional area of Sky Fly)
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Old 10-03-2006, 03:12 AM
  #10  
Wind Shear
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[quote=cbatters;107052]2Q

1. Did you use the Dubro hinge with 6 holes or the smaller hinge with 4 holes? (The link you posted was to the 6 hole hinges but the pics of the plane look like you used the smaller 4 hole hinges.)

I used the 6 hole hinges.

Someday I will get the pic posted with the notched stabilizers.
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Old 10-20-2006, 04:29 PM
  #11  
cbatters
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Was planning to take the SkyFly out this weekend after flying the Challenger for the last couple of weeks. However, the control linkage is really lame compared to the Challenger - feels like the servos are linked to the control surfaces with bungie cords. No problems with the Challenger control surfaces- Positive movement and return to neutral every time.

Beginning to think the real problem SkyFLy is the control lines and not the hinges. (Foam hinges make the problem worse on the SkyFly but work fine on the Challenger even reinforced with tape.)

I am going out at lunch to see if I can find some .018" - .020" monofilament line to re-string the control lines. If there are any avid fishermen with a spool of what I am guessing to be 40# line, I would be happy to buy a couple stamps and pay for 20' of line - a lifetime supply.

Anyone else with a SkyFly have a micrometer to check the thickness of the control lines? .0095" is really thin / stretchy. Wondering if the light gage was an error or if they really wanted the spongy / stretchy lines.


Clint
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Old 10-23-2006, 06:14 PM
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Picked up a 200 year supply of 30# monofilament leader line at local sporting good store. Line measures .021" and fits through the stock adjuster spools without any mods:

1. I left the stock lines in the boom just in case I want to swap back for a test.

2. Very easy to thread the lines from the rear openings in the boom up into the fuse and then thread them through the servo.

3. They didn't have any crimp on sleeves at the store so I just tied a fishermans knot in the line and pulled it very tight.

First impression:

Day/night difference over stock lines. MUCH more positive movement / returns to neutral position every time. The only problem is that the stock adjusters spin when I apply a lot of force on the control surface. (Old line was so stretchy that it never excerted enough force to cause them to spin. I am going to try tightening them and/or wrap the line once around the control horn before entering the adjuster spool. If that does not work I will replace the control horns with the HobbyZone adjusters that never slip.)

OMT - Recently got my hands on a Red Hawk and measured the control lines. .0155" - substantially thicker and less stretchy than the Sky FLy lines. (You can order replacement Red Hawk control lines from Hobbico HCAA3803 for under a buck.)



Clint

Last edited by cbatters; 10-23-2006 at 09:39 PM.
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