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Great Planes Fokker Dr-1 ARF : Did I bite off more than I can chew?

Old 09-08-2010, 05:10 AM
  #51  
brutus251
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JUst take your time,it might take a bit but youll get it done. Brutus PS if you should loose the string inside the wing,just tie a bolt to a piece of string and let it drop thru one side and when you see it at the access hole just pull it thru with a bent paper clip or needle nose pliers.Tape the servo wire like before and start again.
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Old 09-08-2010, 06:22 AM
  #52  
Redlegwolf08
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Default Too good to be true

Brutus, the advice was too good to be true. The servo wires themselves are not long enough to reach all the way to the center hole; without the y harness, they just won't make it. Thoughts?
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Old 09-08-2010, 02:05 PM
  #53  
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No wonder youve been having problems. You should have bought two extensions,probably 9",check the first few pages of the instructions,it should say how long they need to be.You have to hook the extensions to the servos before slipping the ext. thru the wing.HeadsUp RC has them for cheap and $2 shipping,Jeff is a super guy too.One thing,Id get a slightly longer ext. than it requires,it might be easier to feed thru the wing. Brutus
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Old 09-08-2010, 02:54 PM
  #54  
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I just checked the instructions out. It shows the long y ext. FORGET the instructions. Use two seperate ext.Its been a couple of years since I built mine and I had forgotten about the pic. it shows in the instructions.Just measure how much extra length you will need to make the servo wires pass thru the exit hole in the middle of the wing and if its 6" buy two 9" ones so you have the little extra to play with.You will have a lot of extra wire if you bought the y it shows in the instructions but you can snip it and resolder it or try to tuck it up in the wing.Brutus
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:05 PM
  #55  
degreen60
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If you know how to solder, you can do as I do. I cut the servo plugs off leaving a pigtail on the plugs and servo. I find wire about the same size as the servo leads(I have a large junk box). I twist three wires together long enough to reach where they need to go. Solder the 3 wires on the servo leads and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Run wire through the wings, solder together and add one of the servo plugs taken off the servos.
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:34 PM
  #56  
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Don,youre my hero! Anyone who can solder small wires like those I look up to. Brutus
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Old 09-08-2010, 07:28 PM
  #57  
degreen60
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Originally Posted by brutus251 View Post
Don,youre my hero! Anyone who can solder small wires like those I look up to. Brutus
I do not find it hard to solder the small wires. Hats off is to my son who replaces the SMS chips on the circuit boards when I find a bad one that needs replaced. He use to repair cell phones before they became a throw away item.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:25 PM
  #58  
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Once I found Anderson Power Poles this hobby became much less stressfull. I cant tell you how many Deans connectors I ruined,I guess you either can or cant do it right. I however can not so crimp style connectors are for me. Brutus
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:34 PM
  #59  
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Default strut supports

Wish I would have read about the weak strut supports before I assembled my dr1. Last night, three of the four top wing supports disentegrated when I was attaching the top wing. I carefully ca'd them back together and then pre-drilled the holes before attaching the struts. It worked but I'm sure those attachments won't take much stress. Worst part is, once the strut support bases are glued into the wing, just how the he!! are you supposed to get them out to replace them? Only thing I can figure is to gouge them out with a dremel. Now doesn't that sound like fun!!!!!

Very, very poor quality from Great Planes!
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:19 PM
  #60  
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Here's my take on a very fun airplane:

http://z8rc.blogspot.com/2010/10/qui...okker-dr1.html
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:12 AM
  #61  
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how's the build going, Wolf?
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:38 AM
  #62  
z-8
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Originally Posted by Redlegwolf08 View Post
So, is something wrong here? Should I have six of the larger hinges?
Nope, use 3 of those little rectangle hinges in each aileron and the elevator, use the large one for the rudder. I thought it was a joke at first but they work great. The rudder is plenty strong to attach a tail wheel.
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:37 AM
  #63  
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Still a little purplexed by the wings barnburner...I think I'll take a stab this weekend.
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:04 AM
  #64  
makeitworst
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Originally Posted by 7car7 View Post
As far as the Fokker DR1, there's a couple things to be aware of.

You will want to NOT use the little lugs that glue into the wings for the struts. They break very easily. You should either use them as a pattern for some better quality plywood, (get some 1/16 thick ply and laminate yourself), or enlarge the openings in the wings just a big and laminate some 1/16 ply to the existing lugs. If you leave them stock, you WILL break them at some point. Most likely after landing on your maiden flight.

With that said, it's a really cool plane, and is easier to fly than I expected. I used two AA batteries taped under the motor mount for some additional nose weight. I will eventually try flight with one removed.

This plane LOVES to climb. You pretty much don't use much elevator with it, you can climb by giving more throttle.

When landing, keep in mind it does not glide well. It needs power to be held at about 1/4 throttle to keep from dropping too fast. Come in at a decent clip, and don't let off the throttle until all the way down. Be prepared to give full up elevator once it's down. If not, it will nose over, and the stock lugs in the wings WILL break apart.

I like the plane, but it's not for a beginner. I agree, the SE5 is better for someone less experienced.
If your GP Fokker Dr.1 is climbing on just more throttle, then you do not have enough down thrust built into the motor mount. Anyone in RC for a while building planes knows this. Its RC 101. Any plane should fly flat and level on any change in throttle.

I have two of these GP ElectriFly Fokker Dr.1's and I have none of this climb problems on throttle.
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:32 AM
  #65  
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Just as a Post Script to this very long sad story of a very newbie trying to build an pretty easy to build ARF, but people of similar limited talents and experience PLEASE stick with real simple Foamies until you can learn how to build even an ARF WITH SOMEONE in your neighborhood or club that can teach you the rudimentary rules and methods of an assembly and routing something as simple as servo leads thru a wing. This was not a simple example of "Did I bite off more than I can chew?", but one of don't even open open your mouth if you've never even seen a hamburger.

Good night.


Ps - I had to learn too, it was 58 years ago by my dad.
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:19 AM
  #66  
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Hello Red. Donít have DR1. But do have a 1/4 Sopwith Triplane. Electric G110 motor from Dymondusa.com Have 6000 and a 3000 mah battery for power. Two 3000 mah for flight controls. Sound card for engine and machine guns

Banditone1
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:11 AM
  #67  
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Hello Redleg Juneau here. Am building a 1/4Scale Sopwith Triplane. G 110 electric motor. Sound card to replicate motor and machine guns. Red LEDís in muzzles that flash. 6000 mah, and 3000 for motor. 2, 3000 mah bats for flight control.
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Old 06-02-2019, 08:21 PM
  #68  
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Default Triplane

A pic of my Sopwith Triplane
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