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T28 Trojan

Old 02-10-2009, 03:31 AM
  #176  
benovisoff
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make bigger landing gear
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:15 AM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post
I'm also using the turnigy SK series 35x36x910kv on a 12x8 prop on 4cell 1500mah packs.... (no landing gear because no prop clearance anyways...)

Where did you balance yours... My battery had to be pushed all the way back to the middle of the fuse.....

ps, I also had a 35x42x1250kv motor sitting around that I almost used instead...LOL

SK
We went with the 1100kv version, the 35-36C non-sk series. The "XP" line if I recall correctly. The batteries we are using fit right in the pocket %100, not too far though right about where the stock PZ 1800 pack would sit. I've also flown it with Zippy-K 1800's, Zippy 2200's, and Zippy Flightmax 1800's, it all worked out OK. CG was more or less spot-on, good enough for me to just do a launch and work it around. I needed 2 clicks of down elevator on maiden and it's been good since, granted only 6 flights however there is a 3-day weekend ahead I have not fully dialed it in when changing batteries however a click here and a click there on elevator trim doesn't bother me. I've got a stable aileron / rudder mix on my TX and turns are sweet. It's a fun rig as far as I'm concerned ++ stable and predictable.

I could go with a bigger prop it's just a matter of I'm happy with what I got for the moment LOL. On a bench test with a peaked-up Rhino 25C 2250mAh 3S I'm pulling a hair over 40A, which is what the ESC is rated for. I find myself flooring the throttle here and there but never for more than 2-3 seconds so I'm confident the ESC will be OK. I have bigger MAS and APC props I just don't feel like going too much bigger. My instinct tells me if I go to an APC 10x7E I'll gain some speed at the cost of thrust, so I'll try that, and also maybe a MAS 11x7 3-blade. We'll see
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:43 AM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post
I think in the future I will go with the 35x36x1400kv and put like a 9x9 or something similar to allow for landing gear... but for now a belly lander is ok...

although your triblade setup looks pretty wicked....

SK
It's stock landing gear - ok for the 10x7 MAS on pavement however I hear ya if you are belly-landing, makes sense to go with a higher kv motor and lower prop dimension. Agreed the "gasser" tri-blade config is wicked. It ticks off a few people at the old landing strip LOL!

I'm respectful and feel-out the given saturday / sunday crowd as does my pal, however in the past we've been relegated to waiting for the various slimers to call out "landing" or "taking off" or "coming in dead stick" when they dominate the airspace while they assume our foamies are toys. No more my friends We go out there, setup on the line, check the airspace, and call "launching" as we floor the throttle and under-hand chuck the plane like a softball LOL. Hobbycity makes experimentation affordable in my mind, so I'll continue to fly this setup for as long as I can
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:05 AM
  #179  
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the CG listed onlined says to use 2.25-2.5 inches measured (inverted) 1 inch out from leading edge... so do I measure 1" straight out then whereever it meets the wing I measure another 2.5"? or do I measure 1" down the leading edge? or can I just measure like 2.8 from leading edge centerline? and why on earth wouldn't they just give that number instead?

I'll prob just have to estimate it and move it around to where I like it....

SK

Last edited by ministeve2003; 03-29-2009 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:22 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post
the CG listed onlined says to use 2.25-2.5 inches measured (inverted) 1 inch out from leading edge... so do I measure 1" straight out then whereever it meets the wing I measure another 2.5"? or do I measure 1" down the leading edge? or can I just measure like 2.8 from leading edge centerline? and why on earth wouldn't they just give that number instead?
Ya, it's confusing I agree. I just measured 1" out from the fuse approx. 1/2 down the wing from the leading edge - then 2.5" from the leading edge until the points matched up. Think 2.5" down from leading edge meets 1" out from fuse. Should be a bit before the wing rod / tape
comes into play.

Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post

I'll prob just have to estimate it and move it around to where I like it....

SK
Bingo! Get it "ballpark" and go from there. Here's a pic that helped me from MA:

[media]http://www.masportaviator.com/articlepics/t28trojan/trojan-13.jpg[/media]
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:43 AM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post
I'm also using the turnigy SK series 35x36x910kv on a 12x8 prop on 4cell 1500mah packs.... (no landing gear because no prop clearance anyways...)
Hows the construction on that 3536 SK? I was thinking about buying one of them when I put my next order in for a standard 3536C .

They look sharp in the pics, but then again so do those red and silver Turnigy outrunners that are kinda weakly put together in reality.

Worth the extra cash?
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:24 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
Hows the construction on that 3536 SK? I was thinking about buying one of them when I put my next order in for a standard 3536C .

They look sharp in the pics, but then again so do those red and silver Turnigy outrunners that are kinda weakly put together in reality.

Worth the extra cash?
well, I'm using them almost exclusively now, but I'm also using those red and silver ones too...LOL, actually, the red and silver ones are aprox the same as the gold ones, but they can take alot more stress....

compairing two 400 size (15amp) ones the red one swings a bigger prop and stays cool while doing it.... me and a couple flight buddys use them all the time, the 28x36x1050kv (23a) one is our favorite, I used to burn the 400 gold one out on a 10x4.7 but the new red one takes it like nothing...

these are the two I am talking about....
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...less_Outrunner

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._15A_Outrunner

my best setup's are usually sk series 35x36x910kv on 12x8apc and 4cell 1500's or 2100's and a 40amp turnigy esc.... cost is decent, power is awsome....

they always come down cool, I'm assuming the bigger/more bearings have alot to do with it...

here's a couple planes I have using that combo... both of their AUW, is 2.7lb and 2.6lb respectively... ps, also... both of those planes are running hxt900's...LOL

[media]http://www.vimeo.com/3061750[/media]

[media]http://www.vimeo.com/1943406[/media]

SK

Last edited by ministeve2003; 03-29-2009 at 05:06 AM.
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:28 PM
  #183  
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Here's a picture I took of one of those 910kv motors...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3015339...7607170214385/

SK

Last edited by ministeve2003; 03-29-2009 at 05:06 AM.
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:32 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post
well, I'm using them almost exclusively now, but I'm also using those red and silver ones too...LOL, actually, the red and silver ones are aprox the same as the gold ones, but they can take alot more stress....

These are the red and silver ones I am talking about. I know tey aren't the same class as the 28's and the 30's but they are made by the same company and I find the machined endplate on the stator to be super soft aluminum and almost unusable after it is bent.

The gold and silver ones are put together very well - I was just wondering if the SK series is more like the gold and silver or like the red and silver.
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:57 PM
  #185  
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well, the only motors I've actually dented was a couple eflite ones, so I can't really say how bad they do in a front piledrive crash, although I've seen that happen to them and they were fine.... but I'm sure they won't hold up the same as something like an eflite motor, but then again, eflite motors weigh alot more... example, I had an eflite 25 that would put out about 500-600 watts but get smoking hot, it weighs around 190grams, the turnigy weighs 115grams and gets propped to the same... aprox 500-600 watts. and its cool... being made out of aluminum alloy instead of steel has its drawbacks, but if you want more power for less weight it really is a good improvement....

this motor is my favorite for gws planes ans similar size... I've yet to destroy one, even when pushing it a little rough... I think my buddys running it with a 10x9.5 prop.... I'm also running it on a 4cell 1000 pack on a 7x7 graupner prop on a very light stryker...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._23A_Outrunner

SK

Last edited by ministeve2003; 03-29-2009 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:43 AM
  #186  
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maybe getting a power 10 this weekend. I will have to buy it new though . Arent the holes on the back the same? The big man at the lhs says so, the site doesn't say anything (eflite) and a few people here a say. I heard they are the same up to the power 32.
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Old 02-11-2009, 02:55 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post
well, the only motors I've actually dented was a couple eflite ones, so I can't really say how bad they do in a front piledrive crash, although I've seen that happen to them and they were fine.... but I'm sure they won't hold up the same as something like an eflite motor, but then again, eflite motors weigh alot more... example, I had an eflite 25 that would put out about 500-600 watts but get smoking hot, it weighs around 190grams, the turnigy weighs 115grams and gets propped to the same... aprox 500-600 watts. and its cool... being made out of aluminum alloy instead of steel has its drawbacks, but if you want more power for less weight it really is a good improvement....

this motor is my favorite for gws planes ans similar size... I've yet to destroy one, even when pushing it a little rough... I think my buddys running it with a 10x9.5 prop.... I'm also running it on a 4cell 1000 pack on a 7x7 graupner prop on a very light stryker...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._23A_Outrunner

SK

10x9.5? Holy mackarel. I was pushing 23 (the max efficiency as quoted) with a 10x5.

those windings aren't long for the world lol
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Old 02-11-2009, 03:25 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
10x9.5? Holy mackarel. I was pushing 23 (the max efficiency as quoted) with a 10x5.

those windings aren't long for the world lol
I think I normally run it on a 11x4.7 prop for my 3d stuff... but then 3d stuff doesn't lay on the throttle all the time....

SK

Last edited by ministeve2003; 03-29-2009 at 05:08 AM.
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Old 02-22-2009, 06:48 PM
  #189  
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Flaps.
These work very well!
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Old 02-22-2009, 07:16 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
Flaps.
These work very well!

Cool man. This bird floats so well as it is, I bet it just stands there with flaps down.
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:09 PM
  #191  
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It can manuver in much smaller circles with the flaps down, as long as the nose is also kept down.
Landing speeds are quite slower than without them.
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:29 AM
  #192  
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cool. I will try flaps next. everyone says they are a plus.
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:58 AM
  #193  
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Any reason you could not just use the exiting ailerons as flaps by using a programmable radio?


Edit: I may have found my own answer. Flaps near the root of the wing would stall before the rest of the wing producing more predictable behavior. Flapperons near the wing tips would work but may cause undesirable stall characteristics.



Clint
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:14 AM
  #194  
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they will more make the nose go up, than slow the plane. Also, you couldn't use flaps and ailerons at the same time
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:23 AM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by benovisoff View Post
they will more make the nose go up, than slow the plane. Also, you couldn't use flaps and ailerons at the same time

Have to politely disagree. You can easily program computer radio to mix aileron and flaps.

Also not clear why flapperons would cause the nose to go up any more than straight flaps...
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:35 AM
  #196  
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Flaperons will lead to tip-stalls!
Not worth the effort!
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Old 02-23-2009, 04:12 PM
  #197  
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exactly. Although the radio can do it, doesn't always mean every time the plane can do it.
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Old 02-23-2009, 06:33 PM
  #198  
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Well, I hate to disagree, but saying "the plane can't do it" does seem a little misleading. I've used both flapperons and spoilerons, and never induced a tip-stall with them, they work just great.

Now of course, it's fair to say that flaps closer to the body might have some advantage, and I'd certainly believe it can be the case, but don't get carried away -

Remember that tip stalling comes from slowing down the plane *too much* - which you can do no matter whether you use flaps, flapperons, or air brakes.

Just didn't want to see false info going around though -- anyone with a computer radio can give flapperons / spoilerons a try and see for themself, they work quite well, actually. I do think real flaps look cooler though.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:04 PM
  #199  
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Surfaces deflected down (as flaps) reduce the angle at which the wing section ahead of them will stall.
Therefore the inboard flaps are safer, as when that wing section has reached the stall angle, the outboard sections are still flying. It's like washout.
When the ailerons are the flaps, the wing will stall at the tips first, usually on one side, which rolls the plane towards that side.
Flaps down, ailerons up, as in the "crow" configuration is much safer, as the upward deflected surface acts as washout, which lets the wing get to a greater angle of attack before stalling.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:05 PM
  #200  
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The t-28 needs speed to keep up. It needs about 3/5-1/2 throttle and full nose up on 125% expo to stay level and get by. How can I program my Dx6i to use flapperons with the t-28? Most planes can use flapperons, but with some planes just the all aroud flight characteristics and aerodynamis wont let it slow down. Like the Slowstick that can go very slow of course, and some ducted fan jets that have to go at LEAST 30 or 40.
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