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Mountain Models/Laser Arts Appreciation Thread

Old 12-22-2009, 12:38 PM
  #151  
Eberwein
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Rob,

That looks great! Are you sure you're not from Texas?

Let me know how that Hacker works out on that plane for you.

Also, let me know if the HS-65MG holds up. I am guessing you're using it on the retracts? I didn't try the 65MG on mine, but the standard HS-65 stripped on the first hard landing/crash I had. (although I probably didn't have the end points set properly)

Brian
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:17 PM
  #152  
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Probably gonna be a while but I will surely let you know how the Hacker runs. Got a whole range of various sized and pitched props to run through. Also have a few accomplished pattern pilots at the club to lend some input. I did have to add about 3/16" standoffs to clear the cowl with a GP 2" spinner. I did not want to sand too much off the firewall profile. Probably wind up with a Tru-turn on it before spring.

I saw one of the guys on the other board used an MG servo so i figured it would be a good idea. I had to do some tweaking and tuning on the GP.10 retracts to get them to move more smoothly and one still has a little less than 1/32" stroke than the other. I took that out at the up adjustment. One of the retracts was a little tight on the "plunger thingie" that looks like a T. I had to scrape a little stock off the walls of the main body and clean up the split line on the "T" from the molding to get I to move smoothly without binding and buzzing the servo. I do know that the deployed endpoints are REAL close to maxxed. The GP.10 design looks to be really solid. Time will tell. I'll let ya know, good or bad. I'm sure it will be good though
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Old 12-24-2009, 01:28 PM
  #153  
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Rob,

The GP .10 retracts are fairly nice units. For the size, they work great.

However, as with any retracts, if you pound the plane onto the pavement (or rough field filled with weeds), they can break. I broke one when "crash" landing in a field after loosing power and barely getting the retracts down before "landing", and I broke one more when I dumb thumbed the plane and stalled it at about 5 feet high.

So, land as smooth as you can, but they'll take the standard light bounces well.
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:57 PM
  #154  
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Default New Switchback Sport lite..

My new Switchback Sport-lite,only 10.4 ozs. with a custom wound Blue Wonder on 2s with 8X4 GWS prop.Only about 70 watts of power..but it still can climb straight up.

Of course it flies great.


Last edited by SKYPILEIT; 03-17-2010 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:01 PM
  #155  
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nice weight. i like the black wheels too. hopefully bart doesn't get into trouble...
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:22 AM
  #156  
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My EZ Sport with tip plates.Powered by an E-Flite 370 ourunner & 7X5 prop on 3s....a real fun,rugged sport flyer.It's a simple build..takes about 3-4 days.


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Old 03-25-2010, 12:35 AM
  #157  
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Hello all,

New the hobby and a first time builder.

I've been working on my Cub since sunday and tomorrow I should start bending the landing gear.

I want to thank those who do build threats and Mountain Models for the great work they do on the parts and manuals. This has been a blast not only for me, but the wife and grandson as well.

Brian keep up the great work!
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:52 AM
  #158  
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Default Ahhhh, Eva Sport - Just What The Doctor Ordered

Conditions were perfect tonight, 70 degrees and maybe 2 MPH winds and mostly sunny. You know what that means! I just flew for about an hour of actual air time! 5 Batteries with about 12 minutes each of flight time.

The EVA Sport is just such a great easy flyer that allows you to push it as hard as you want, then just float! I have pushing the CG back and back and back... and this plane just doesn't care. It's still always a docile flyer, but now even inverted it wants to continue to climb. It's making me look like a seasoned pilot, not someone with just a little over a year of flight time. I also now have the control surface throws way up. This plane is still easy to fly. Inside loops, outside loops, figure eights, short harriers, inverted flight... I'm always surprised at just how easy it is to do anything you want with this plane. I thought a flat bottom wing with this much dihedral does not like be flown inverted, but with the CG back it just doesn't matter. It's always stable.

So I'm going crazy for a while, then motor off and glide and soar. This plane can float so much that I can keep the motor off for what seems like forever and just glide around at a speed that is so slow I could just catch it out of the air (if it was low enough)



My Sport is now about a year old and powered by a 180 watt 2830-11 motor from HeadsUpRc. I can go straight up anytime I want!

Well, now back to working on my retracts for the MM P-51 on the bench!

Steve
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:20 AM
  #159  
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steve,

good to hear you got some flight time today. winds here started around 8 mph and ended around 17 mph. didn't want to risk the maiden on my edge, so i held off.

i like your eva! i'd like to try the bipe.
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:23 PM
  #160  
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It's been some time since any posted their MM beauties. Anyone have some more to share?

Frank
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:39 PM
  #161  
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Default Well I'll my progress to date!!!!!

It's going a little slower than I want, but I am having fun and learning a great deal. I have most of the electronics etc. Covering seems to be the biggest issue and I'm taking my time and reading a lot.

al
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Old 06-11-2010, 10:56 PM
  #162  
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Looking really good, Al. Covering can be time consuming. Just take your time and it will come out looking pretty good. Don't sweat straight seams, etc., if you are using Solite, as the seams do tend to disappear at about 12", so in the air, no one will be able to tell if one is a little ragged.

Mark
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:44 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by al c View Post
It's going a little slower than I want, but I am having fun and learning a great deal. I have most of the electronics etc. Covering seems to be the biggest issue and I'm taking my time and reading a lot.

al
You're covering job looks great!

I know it is a little late, but one tip is to sand the tabs of the fuselage formers to remove the laser char...that way you don't get black spots showing through your covering. I used a little balsa filler here and there too.
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:32 PM
  #164  
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Default More progress

Thanks TC,

I got the rest of the fuse done earlier this week........I did read your built and sanded a little, but you know it gives the plane a little special look and the sheeting shows thru it so at 20 ft I'll bet no one will notice.

Now its on to the curves, still just taking my time and learning what I can. Fun stuff and reminds me a lot about my early days in ham radio and electronics.

I see you have added the edge to you collection; watched that build as well. Not sure were I'll go next.

al
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:41 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by al c View Post
Thanks TC,

I got the rest of the fuse done earlier this week........I did read your built and sanded a little, but you know it gives the plane a little special look and the sheeting shows thru it so at 20 ft I'll bet no one will notice.

Now its on to the curves, still just taking my time and learning what I can. Fun stuff and reminds me a lot about my early days in ham radio and electronics.

I see you have added the edge to you collection; watched that build as well. Not sure were I'll go next.

al
That yellow looks great. In the air, I just see the outline and main colors of mine. Although a low/slow pass will give you a nice view of the cockpit...you gonna add a pilot? Mine needs one...

I got bored of the Cub for a while but recently have been really enjoying flying it. It will do more stuff that you think it would at first glance. The more experience I have with it, the more I like it


I got maybe 20 flights in the Edge before I nosed her in at high speed. Rebuild is 1/2 done now. It's a fun plane, but it will flip over if you yank full elevator at low speeds At $80 delivered for a '98% done arf', I figured it was worth a whirl.
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:37 AM
  #166  
Laythuye
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Default May I join in.....maiden, maiden .......birds

Originally Posted by Murocflyer View Post
It's been some time since any posted their MM beauties. Anyone have some more to share?

Frank
Hi Murocflyer and All

Here are the images of my DandySports. It is my first balsa built of this size. Enjoy both building and flying.

Mine is with basic set up of GWS EPS 350 C - Ds with GWs ICS 300li ESC, 2S 850 Mah, initially with GWS 9070 prop. The first two throws of my maiden end up with not enough power, tail heavy plane. I am a lone flyer, so I gather all the information from the forums like this and rectify two things. Change the prop to 1047 and put a shim to reduce the angle of attack of the wing. I am fully aware that I needs to chance only one thing at a time and see how its goes. This time I take the risk and it is well worth it. But the birds.........pls help! I tried my very best to keep the wing level and trim.

here is the video of my maiden on youtube

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZJY6CQ34sc[/media]

Thank you all for all the information.

Laythuye
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:25 PM
  #167  
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Default Slipso 400 Pylon Racer

Here's my nearly-finished Slipso 400 pylon racer from Mountain Models.
I had to put it aside to begin work on the Wattflyer Warbird contest entry, but will try to finish it soon. Finish is Minwax over F/G cloth, with Japanese tissue trim for color. Build thread here;
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53939
Ron
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Old 06-28-2010, 04:34 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by Laythuye View Post
Hi Murocflyer and All

Here are the images of my DandySports. It is my first balsa built of this size. Enjoy both building and flying.

...

Thank you all for all the information.

Laythuye
Laythuye,

Welcome to Wattflyer! Yout Dandy looks really good! My first aileron plane was the Dandy Sport and I still like flying it. I had a hard time trimming out my sport so it flew well, but after I did, it flies really well. Mine is powered by a small GWS outrunner and I use 1000 mAh 3S batteries... I have never used the GWS brushed motors or the GWS gear boxes, so I afraid I can't be any help with your power setup.

To help fly level here’s some of the things I do:

1. Check the CG to be correct and that the battery cannot move around. You want to balance at the recommended spot or just in front. A tail heavy plane does not fly well. Move the battery forward (or back) until It balances correctly. Your pic on the balancer shows the plane balancing behind the main wing spar. I think this is too far back.

2. Check your elevator to be straight and square. Eyeball the stationary part of the elevator (stabilizer) and make sure it’s level with the wing. Make sure there are no warps….

3. Make sure the moving elevator is straight and neutral when the controls are neutral. Mechanically make sure it is straight when the radio is on, the controls are at neutral and the trim is at neutral. (Center)

4. Double check the wing for any warps. (Mine warped when I covered it and I spent a long time working it out.)

5. Check that the ailerons are straight and level with the bottom of the wing when the controls are at neutral.

When you are satisfied with your setup on the ground, then it’s time to fly!
In your video it seems like you are never getting up very high. (Maybe I can't tell.) I like some height when I’m flying a plane for the first couple of times to experiment flying at different throttle levels and to try trimming out the plane so it flies well. I start at a medium throttle level and trim the elevator so it flies level. The Dandy should be able to fly with your hands off of the controls for quite a while. Your plane may need some down trim. I then try some higher throttle and lower throttle runs to see how the plane responds. Hopefully a nice gentle climb without any stalling when at a higher throttle and a slight loss of altitude when the throttle is decreased. Again, no stalling or nose diving….

Good Luck and Post your progress.

Don’t be afraid to email Brain at Mountain Models with questions as well. I’m sure he’ll help you if he can as well.

Steve
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Old 06-28-2010, 02:38 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by Laythuye View Post
Hi Murocflyer and All

Here are the images of my DandySports. It is my first balsa built of this size. Enjoy both building and flying.

Mine is with basic set up of GWS EPS 350 C - Ds with GWs ICS 300li ESC, 2S 850 Mah, initially with GWS 9070 prop. The first two throws of my maiden end up with not enough power, tail heavy plane. I am a lone flyer, so I gather all the information from the forums like this and rectify two things. Change the prop to 1047 and put a shim to reduce the angle of attack of the wing. I am fully aware that I needs to chance only one thing at a time and see how its goes. This time I take the risk and it is well worth it. But the birds.........pls help! I tried my very best to keep the wing level and trim.

here is the video of my maiden on youtube

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZJY6CQ34sc[/media]

Thank you all for all the information.

Laythuye

Point that nose down or you will stall is the brushed system. The Dandy SP doesn't require much power to fly. Mine took maybe 8 clicks of down elevator trim to fly level. Do you have your battery firewalled towards the nose? I balance mine at the rear edge of the wing-spar, but have flown it just fine as far back as 1" aft of the spar. I've used that same motor but with 2S 1200 mah.

If you can't get it to balance at the aft end of the wing spar...don't fly it. Get a bigger battery or tape a fishing spoon to the nose.

My first flight was with a 8 cell nimh battery and the gws350...plane went straight up at takeoff (luckely didn't stall). The sport wing has so much lift you need to click in some down elevator trim.

If you try the GT wing later...it doesn't require any down trim...
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:11 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Laythuye,

Welcome to Wattflyer! Yout Dandy looks really good! My first aileron plane was the Dandy Sport and I still like flying it. I had a hard time trimming out my sport so it flew well, but after I did, it flies really well. Mine is powered by a small GWS outrunner and I use 1000 mAh 3S batteries... I have never used the GWS brushed motors or the GWS gear boxes, so I afraid I can't be any help with your power setup.

To help fly level hereís some of the things I do:

1. Check the CG to be correct and that the battery cannot move around. You want to balance at the recommended spot or just in front. A tail heavy plane does not fly well. Move the battery forward (or back) until It balances correctly. Your pic on the balancer shows the plane balancing behind the main wing spar. I think this is too far back.

2. Check your elevator to be straight and square. Eyeball the stationary part of the elevator (stabilizer) and make sure itís level with the wing. Make sure there are no warpsÖ.

3. Make sure the moving elevator is straight and neutral when the controls are neutral. Mechanically make sure it is straight when the radio is on, the controls are at neutral and the trim is at neutral. (Center)

4. Double check the wing for any warps. (Mine warped when I covered it and I spent a long time working it out.)

5. Check that the ailerons are straight and level with the bottom of the wing when the controls are at neutral.

When you are satisfied with your setup on the ground, then itís time to fly!
In your video it seems like you are never getting up very high. (Maybe I can't tell.) I like some height when Iím flying a plane for the first couple of times to experiment flying at different throttle levels and to try trimming out the plane so it flies well. I start at a medium throttle level and trim the elevator so it flies level. The Dandy should be able to fly with your hands off of the controls for quite a while. Your plane may need some down trim. I then try some higher throttle and lower throttle runs to see how the plane responds. Hopefully a nice gentle climb without any stalling when at a higher throttle and a slight loss of altitude when the throttle is decreased. Again, no stalling or nose divingÖ.

Good Luck and Post your progress.

Donít be afraid to email Brain at Mountain Models with questions as well. Iím sure heíll help you if he can as well.

Steve

Hi Steve

Thanks for your advice and kind words, appreciated. I will recheck my CG again. And I have a 2S 2100 mah battery in hand if need to use it to ahve a correct CG. I have check the elevator against the wing and the aileron againt the wing. So far so good. Your are correct about the height, I get too use to or adapt to fly SA Bug series planes to a little higher than the eye level and I didn't realise the height is not too high enough for DS. Luckily nothing happens. Didn't have the chance to fly DS again yet, as the weather is not favourable.

Thanks you once again
Laythuye
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:20 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by texasclouds View Post
Point that nose down or you will stall is the brushed system. The Dandy SP doesn't require much power to fly. Mine took maybe 8 clicks of down elevator trim to fly level. Do you have your battery firewalled towards the nose? I balance mine at the rear edge of the wing-spar, but have flown it just fine as far back as 1" aft of the spar. I've used that same motor but with 2S 1200 mah.

If you can't get it to balance at the aft end of the wing spar...don't fly it. Get a bigger battery or tape a fishing spoon to the nose.

My first flight was with a 8 cell nimh battery and the gws350...plane went straight up at takeoff (luckely didn't stall). The sport wing has so much lift you need to click in some down elevator trim.

If you try the GT wing later...it doesn't require any down trim...
Hi Texasclouds

Thanks for your advice and inputs, I have closely followed your DS build thread and build mine. I have my battery firewall towards the nose, the battery I am using is so light, but I have a 2s 2100 mah in hand so I will recheck my CG with either one to have mine just rear end of wing spar.
I have built my GT already but will wait till I am happy with my DSport wing.

cheers:>>>>Laythuye
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:04 PM
  #172  
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Well there is talk that a Super version of the MM J3 cub is coming out.

I plan to buy the cowl and possibly the plane (although I already bashed a super of my own).

I really like the way the clipped wing flies. Here is a coloring idea I'd like to do:




White is traditionally used in the sunburst areas...but I have a roll of cream solite on hand. I think it would look nice. What do you guys think?

I also would like to try the Trexler 8-G tires (2.75" diameter, 0.5 oz each).

The HeadsUp 2530-11 motor is what I'm leaning towards (The 2830-11 is a 1.9 ounce, 1150KV, 180 watt, 400 class outrunner brushless motor capable of producing 30 oz of thrust with a 9 inch prop. This motor is 1/3 ounce lighter than a 350 brushed/geared motor, but provides almost twice the thrust!).

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Old 10-07-2010, 11:48 PM
  #173  
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TC,

That scheme and those colors will be nice. The only issue I'd have is that blue covering can be a little hard to see in clear blue skies.

I have the HeadsUpRc 2830-11 in my EVA. It's a great motor in the EVA. I get 12 minute flights (with the sport wing) on 1300 mAh batteries and have plenty of power. If the Cub is around the same weight as a EVA then all should be good.

One question for you. How do you create your color scheme pictures? You've done quite a few that I like a lot!

Steve

ps. I still have my eye on a Firestorm!
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:17 AM
  #174  
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Steve,

I was hoping the bottom of the wing being solid light color would help. These come in at 16-19 oz...and fly slow enough I should be able to keep up with it. My first one was red/white and it is really easy to see.

I just use Microsoft Paint and find 3-views to work on. Saving them as a BMP helps you use the paint bucket feature more effectively.

The Dark Blue solite is really dark. It may have plenty of contrast on a baby blue sky.

Mark II
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:22 AM
  #175  
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The Dandy in my picture to the left...the dark green disappears when it is coming at you under the treeline in low light.
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