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Aircraft reccomendations for new flyers

Old 12-05-2007, 05:21 PM
  #151  
Leo L
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The Multiplex MiniMagistar (Minimag) has been the plane that most people find to be the easiest to learn aileron control with. You can buy it ARF, PNP or RTF. From what I've seen, its best to put a small brushless motor and a 3-cell Lipo into it.
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Old 12-05-2007, 06:54 PM
  #152  
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What are your thoughts on building something? Im learning more on a scratch build delta then I expected, and for around 50 in supplies its a cheap build that flies great.
The battery (2s), motor & ESC(2408-21t tower pro combo), servos (HXT900) and the props can all be had at Unitedhobbies, or from Headsuprc on ebay. total thats about 40 shipped from UH. Then 10 bucks worth of foam and wood from michaels and the air frame is done. You may have to go to a LHS to get the music wire and control horns and attachments and Deans connector set for the battery.
You dont even need the lipo (and for that matter a lipo charger). We have 1 we're flying with a 8.4v 1000mah nicad pack from the aerobird 3.
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Old 12-05-2007, 07:12 PM
  #153  
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I already recommended it, he wanted nothing of it.

I am waiting for the flight report of the stryker.
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Old 12-05-2007, 07:52 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post
I already recommended it, he wanted nothing of it.

I am waiting for the flight report of the stryker.
Ahh, thats a shame. Between the Delta and the Stryker C, we're having WAY more fun and stick time on the Delta. In fact, I've shelved the stryker needing repairs (nose work and a servo is acting weird) until we get more stick time on the Deltas.
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Old 12-05-2007, 08:41 PM
  #155  
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So If I get the pnp stryker and use my trojan radio, what else do I need?

I hope to scratchbuild something someday but I don't have time to get it perfect as well as bother balancing it.

Stryker may happen or may not depending on how much cash I have by December 26th. (or may wait till the 28th for my birthday)
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Old 12-05-2007, 08:47 PM
  #156  
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I doubt the trojan radio will work

it doesn't do elevon mixing.
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Old 12-05-2007, 08:50 PM
  #157  
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Ahh, then will probably just get an rtf anyways.
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Old 12-05-2007, 09:45 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post
I doubt the trojan radio will work

it doesn't do elevon mixing.
Actually I believe it does. At least the spare parts listing shows the same Tx for the T-28, Typhoon and Stryker C. There are toggles on the front for servo reversing and the one farthest to the right is for elevon mixing. You really can't see it well in this picture, but it is the same one I got with my Stryker C.
http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/...s/PKZ4341.html
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Old 12-05-2007, 09:52 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by carld2002 View Post
So If I get the pnp stryker and use my trojan radio, what else do I need?

I hope to scratchbuild something someday but I don't have time to get it perfect as well as bother balancing it.

Stryker may happen or may not depending on how much cash I have by December 26th. (or may wait till the 28th for my birthday)
Assuming the radio does elevon mixing, and I think it does, all you need is an Rx and a battery. PNP = plug and play. Plug in the Rx of your choice and a battery and fly.
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:05 PM
  #160  
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I have the radio from the RTF Trojan.

I'll double check, but I do not remember any way to do mixing with it.

Another reason to push for the good radio. You'll throw planes away, but a good radio will always be with you.

Heck, there are likely to be plenty of good deals on radios after Christmas, from all the guys switching over to 2.4.
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:06 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by D Payne View Post
Assuming the radio does elevon mixing, and I think it does, all you need is an Rx and a battery. PNP = plug and play. Plug in the Rx of your choice and a battery and fly.
So assuming the batteries are compatable, all I would need to do is buy a spare parkzone rx and I would be good to go?

Servos are included?

Where do i get the fx?
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:18 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by carld2002 View Post
So assuming the batteries are compatable, all I would need to do is buy a spare parkzone rx and I would be good to go?

Servos are included?

Where do i get the fx?
Stryker C needs a 3 cell lipo, same as comes with the T-28. I use a 2200 mAh battery which fills up the compartment quite well but leaves it a little nose heavy. No problem with flying though.

Servos are included and installed.

You need an Rx, not an Fx. LHS should have one or on-line. Hobbyzone.com or horizonhobby.com will sell you a Parkzone Rx and crystal (sold separately) that will definately be compatible. But as I said in an earlier post, any negative shift Rx should work.

Monkey: one of the worst things about the RTF gear is that you get very little information about the equipment that comes with the plane. The radio could very well be capable of mixing, but you will never know from reading the manual because if barely even mentions the radio at all.

And you could be right. You never know what you are going to get until you get inside the box.

Hmmm....

This thread could get off track pretty fast with wording like that!
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:29 PM
  #163  
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So I don't need a specific parkzone rx or crystal as long as it's negative shift?

If I go to a lhs, what should I be specifically looking for?

And does all this arf advice apply for other planes than parkzone ones?

What is the average price of an rx/crystal?

Also, what information exactly do I need to be looking at when checking if an arf plane is compatable with my battery?
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Old 12-06-2007, 12:27 AM
  #164  
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Rx and crystal brand should match, but that is all.

At the LHS you should ask for a 4 channel 72 Mhz single conversion negative shift or auto-shift receiver. Not dual conversion, not PCM, not positive shift (JR or Airtronics). Futaba, Hitec, GWS, Berg or Parkzone should all be okay. Must be single conversion though. Some brands make both types. More than 4 channels is okay, but you will pay extra.

All of this stuff is the same for all ARF's, kit built or scratch built planes.

Price for a cheap Rx (GWS) is maybe $15 or $20. Parkzone is $27 at hobbyzone.com. $30 to $50 for the other brands. The crystal is usually extra, maybe $7 or $8.

Batteries come in different types, voltages, capacities, discharge rates and with different connector types. The least important thing is matching the capacity, measured in mAh, but the capacity will usually define the size and weight, so you can't completely ignore it. Also, the battery capacity will determine how long your flight time is.

Battery type and voltage is usually related, and generally you cannot interchange NiMH for lipos without at least re-progaming the ESC.

The T-28 and Stryker C both come with 3 cell lipos (11.1 volts), probably 1800-2200 mAh capacity. That is a pretty standard size range, though you can go larger or smaller. My Corsair has a 1300 mAh lipo in it. A larger battery won't fit without modification. Likewise, if I put the 1300 in my P-47, I would probably have some balancing issues because of the lighter weight. That and my flight time would be just 5 minutes assuming I didn't completely ruin the battery by pushing it too hard. The amp draw of that plane requires more capacity and a higher discharge rate. There is more to batteries than this. A lot more! You will learn.

I'm not sure what the standard battery connector is with Parkzone. My Stryker was purchased used from someone who changed the battery connectors to Deans Ultra (arguably the most common type), so I don't know what they were originally. Obviously, the connectors on your battery need to match those on your plane (ESC).
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Old 12-06-2007, 02:27 AM
  #165  
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Thanks

So mAh is size?

So I am having my first problem with my skyfly. (besides the wings being basically destroyed) When I connect the plane to the battery, it will only actually join together only if put in the exact right position. This means that if it is bumped and moves a bit, it will lost connection and the engine will turn off.

I hope you guys can understand that and offer me advice on what to do.
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Old 12-06-2007, 02:51 AM
  #166  
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I'll re-iterate some of this stuff just to be clear.

Originally Posted by carld2002 View Post
So I don't need a specific parkzone rx or crystal as long as it's negative shift?
It is best to get auto-shift receivers, and crystals to match. I've had good luck with these:
http://www.hobbyhorse.com/berg_receivers.shtml

The 4-channel ones are really small and will be suitable for most operations. They are $34 for the slightly better one, and $30 for the shrink-wrapped type, which the crystals fall out of (tape it in). The crystals are $7. You'll pay a little more at a LHS, but you won't pay shipping. With the auto-shift, you won't have to worry about changing your radio... get any shift you want, same channel, or get new crystals for the RX... either way, save the receivers.

Originally Posted by carld2002 View Post
If I go to a lhs, what should I be specifically looking for?
They should know how to set you up. If they don't... go somewhere else. Don't let them push you to the more expensive stuff, unless it's Spektrum.

Originally Posted by carld2002 View Post
And does all this arf advice apply for other planes than parkzone ones?
Yes, that is the beauty of using universal parts. All the servos, batteries, ESCs, are interchangeable, and any 'airframe' can use them.

Originally Posted by carld2002 View Post
What is the average price of an rx/crystal?
$35-$150 depending on what you need. The ones I linked are top quality and good value.

Originally Posted by carld2002 View Post
Also, what information exactly do I need to be looking at when checking if an arf plane is compatable with my battery?
ARF planes usually do not come with ESCs, which is what determines the batteries you can use. Usually ESCs come without battery connectors, and you solder those on. It is a good idea to pick a type of connector and use that on all your planes. All my batteries have Dean's Ultra Plugs on them, so if I end up with an ESC that happens to have a different plug, I cut it off and solder a Dean's on there. Also, my power meter has Dean's on it, so whatever I end up with, if I need to, I switch it over to Dean's and that keeps all my stuff connectible.

Getting a $7 soldering iron from Radio Shack and learning how to use it is essential... and it's fun to wire up your own stuff. It's not hard... as the video proves:
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Old 12-06-2007, 02:57 AM
  #167  
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I agree, cut off whatever plugs you have on your batteries, chargers, and esc and solder on some deans ultra plugs.
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Old 12-06-2007, 04:03 PM
  #168  
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I may have to get those plugs. Electrical tape should work for now though.
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Old 12-06-2007, 04:59 PM
  #169  
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ELECTRICAL TAPE?!?!?

Oh, I want you to take video of the fire!
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Old 12-06-2007, 05:12 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post
ELECTRICAL TAPE?!?!?

Oh, I want you to take video of the fire!
Use some of these (see link) to connect the wires and then the electrical tape. Why bother with that pesky soldering idea and shrink tubing?
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Old 12-06-2007, 06:20 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Use some of these (see link) to connect the wires and then the electrical tape. Why bother with that pesky soldering idea and shrink tubing?
a few reasons, weight, bulk (try having one of those on each wire, and squeeze it into a tight fuse.) and safety. While those are great for in wall applications. You put a lot of strain on your wires, plugging and unplugging. moving in flight, and if the wiring is on something like a slow stick, just exposure. When dealing with batteries, especially lipos, you have to have good, safe connections.
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Old 12-06-2007, 06:56 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post
a few reasons, weight, bulk (try having one of those on each wire, and squeeze it into a tight fuse.) and safety. While those are great for in wall applications. You put a lot of strain on your wires, plugging and unplugging. moving in flight, and if the wiring is on something like a slow stick, just exposure. When dealing with batteries, especially lipos, you have to have good, safe connections.
I was just kidding. I, do, however, use them when wiring a new lamp to my ceiling junction box, but not on my airplane.

However, I have seen some park flying guys use them. The first time I saw them, I thought the guy was doing it as a joke. He was serious.
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Old 12-06-2007, 07:12 PM
  #173  
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I thought you might have been, but you can never tell.

if nothing else, I wanted it out there for any new guys who might take you serious
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Old 12-06-2007, 07:17 PM
  #174  
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This may not be the best solution, but if you have the supplies its pretty cheap, Hot glue. I used it on the tamiya connectors for the AB3 battery, just a shot down each side where the wire goes, then hold the wire in place while it sets. Locks it in pretty good.
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Old 12-06-2007, 07:20 PM
  #175  
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"Crimpy" butt splices work fine... but you really should learn to solder... it's not that hard, and a good (the best, actually) soldering iron can be had for 7 bucks at Radio Shack. A spool of solder is like $2, and it will last forever. Soldering is really easy, and there's lots of how-to videos on Youtube about how to solder various types of parts. Just don't get a cordless, cold-heat, or low-wattage iron, and you'll be fine. Get a 40-watt cheapo iron with a pencil tip...
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