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Venom Night Ranger 3D

Old 04-02-2006, 07:28 AM
  #226  
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Just burned up 2 more tail motors in one shot. Duel motors didn't work. Venom still has not wrote me back. This stinks.
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Old 04-02-2006, 08:33 AM
  #227  
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Viking,

You might call them. It should not eat tail motors as it has been doing.
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Old 04-02-2006, 08:50 AM
  #228  
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Yes I will be calling them and doing a little demanding. This is out of control.

Was going to go fly it with a few guys from the local shop in the morning. Looks like that is a no go now.

I'm gonna slap a new receiver on it tomorrow. And try it again. But I am ever so done with Venom. I fly for a day wait 2 to fix it. Burned out 3 main motors and now 5 tail motors! And my local guy is still stumped.
(blows raspberry and turns off computer)
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Old 04-03-2006, 02:56 AM
  #229  
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Its up to you, but I don't think I would come off as demanding. They have been pretty helpful to a lot of us. It is unfortunate that they did not respond to your email yet. My guess is that they are overwhelmed since Christmas. I called them sometime in January and left a message. They responded a day later with an apology for taking so long and answered my questions.

I cannot understand why it is eating both main and tail motors-perhaps there is an issue in the 4-in-1 that the new one you are installing tomorrow will correct.

I purchased one of the machined twin tail motor holders (probably the same one that you got) to install in my rotofly-it eats a tail motor in one to six flights. Based on your experience, I am wondering if it will help.

Keep us posted!
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Old 04-05-2006, 07:46 AM
  #230  
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VENOM WROTE ME BACK TODAY... Took 9 Days to write me back but they did it.They wrote me an answer that I was already aware of and offered to swap my 4 in 1. Meanwhile back at the ranch I went down to the local hobby store and we replaced the 4 in 1 last night. We took a new 4 in 1 off the wall installed it tested it only to find it didn't have a gyro that was working.So we chose yet another 4 in 1 off the wall...... This one has been working for a little over 24 hours and has had 6 flights and a 5 minute test run done on it. Maybe this is the one that will let me take my training gear off. I'm flying venom and building a t-rex this week. Too many problems and no mail from customer service has turned me off and tuned me out. For what I spent on gas running back and forth to my LHS and parts due to losing tail power and crashing not even mention going thru the stock motor problems I could have already built up something sound.

I know cheap doesn't equal good, but I asked several people and they pointed me towards the blade or the vnr3d. So lesson learned about some RTF helicopters.

Final word:
WATCH THOSE VENOM 4 IN 1s ! Don't replace 5 motors before you take a look at that. 11.3v at the tail motor will burn them out. And when you do get your replacement, luck be with you. I have seen first hand a brand new venom 4 in 1 in a package be worse than the one your swapping out.

It's been real Venom alright... Anyone got a snakebite kit?
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:49 PM
  #231  
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Viking,

What is the correct voltage at the tail rotor on the working 4-in-1?
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Old 04-05-2006, 05:46 PM
  #232  
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Nothing over 10.8 I have heard. I've seen almost 11 on a blade. But he said he had never blown a tail motor in over 4 months. I looked inside a venom 4 in 1 2 days ago, it's a wonder they work at all.
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:08 PM
  #233  
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Viking,

Thank you for the voltage info.

I have a Blade CP, a Honeybee CP2, and the VNR3D and have never blown a tail motor on any of them so far. I did go through several on my Sabre, but the newer generation of tail motors for the Saber seem to be identical to those for the Venom (I retire them at 40 flights). I won't go into the Rotofly again, because it eats tail motors.

The forums are littered with posts of machines with fried tail motors, from various manufactureres. I think you are the first one to measure the voltage. I have seen references to the frequency of the tail ESC being too low and resulting in fried motor brushes.

I hope things go more smoothly for you from now on.
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Old 04-06-2006, 12:52 AM
  #234  
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Thank you Ah Clem! I am going down to get a T-rex and a MD500 body in about an hour. I will be flying my Venom onto a shelf along with all my other models that are not functioning or are worn out. Lesson learned with Venom. I will however be posting on MANY other places an complete list of problems and cost of (RTF) VNR3D from one month of flying. And I bet it wont take me nine days to type it out. LOL...

Oh almost forgot ..Dragonfly 22ez parts will fit VNR3D and are MUCH cheaper for those who want to know. I always bought Venom parts but I thought I would just throw that out there...
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Old 04-07-2006, 09:37 PM
  #235  
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Does anyone know how many amps the stock venom will draw? I have a li-po that I want to use, but need to know how much this little thing pulls.
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Old 04-09-2006, 04:14 AM
  #236  
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Exclamation VNR3D Initial Problems - NEWBIE

Hi Everyone!

I just received my VNR3D the other day, and I'm having alot of trouble doing the initial flight check and blade tracking I'm as newbie as they come!

From what I can see , the blades are tracking. So I went to take off and the heli tipped over (breaking off about 1mm of blade on each end).

So I read the poorly written and illustrated instructions on adjusting the pitch control link, and cannot for the life of me work out which of these control link is the pitch one! There's like 6 of them!

So I was wondering if someone had "real" photos of the initial flight checking procedure or some good ole' plain english advice

Thanks in advance

Jason
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:57 PM
  #237  
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Viking,

It is unfortunate that you had so much trouble with your VNR3D. The do fly very well though-it sounds like you had a run of bad parts.

I have 59 flights on mine now and am still enjoying it thoroughly. There seems to be a "Sweet Spot" RPM wise that determines whether or not they are easy to fly or a handful.

As for the TREX, if you can hover the Venom, the TREX will seem easy. It is not a quick on the cyclic and collective as the VNR3D, but is more proportional in response, making it smooth and easy. I think the increased size and mass help with the stability also.

I try to switch back and forth between the two to keep on my proverbial toes.

Please keep us posted as to your progress.


Jason,

Tipovers are a normal part of the learning process (normal and sometimes expensive). Are you using training gear? This is a must. If this is your first machine, you picked a real hot helicopter to learn on, so it will be somewhat of a challenge.

If you have not found out already, things to stock up on in advance are blades, blade grips, see-saws, and flybar control trays. A spare tail motor is good to have on hand also.

After every mishap, it is important that you set everything up as carefully and precisely as humanly possible. Slight errors will affect the flight characteristics of this, and any other model helicopter.

There should have been a separate addendum sheet included with the instructions showing the revisions to the rotor head made, apparently after the instruction manual was printed. There are two short links which are connected to the blade grip on one end, and the Bell/Hiller mixing lever on the other-these are the ones that you adjust. Be careful when removing the ball links as some have accidentally broken the ball off from the mixing lever.

You want to set the total pitch range with the PLT knob and the pitch mixing with the PZT knob. Try to get an experienced flyer to help you set this up as you are not, at this stage of the game, ready to be punching the throttle. You will need to "Unlock" DIP switch #8 in order for the knobs to work.

The motor should not bog when the throttle is punched with a full battery pack-dial the PLT up until it bogs, then back it down.

The head speed at lift of is governed by the PZT knob, which is not a throttle knob as cited in the directions, but acts like on indirectly, controlling the RPM at hover by increasing or decreasing the pitch. If this is set too low, the helicopter will become too responsive, if it is set too high, you will loose stability due to too low of a head speed. Again, you are looking for the "Sweet Spot".

The PZT also affects the tail rotor, as more pitch will require more right rudder and less pitch will require more left rudder.

If the tail hunts back and forth rapidly in the hover, then the PZT is probably set too low. This is a fairly sensitive adjustment, so take it slow.
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Old 04-10-2006, 12:29 AM
  #238  
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Thanks for your advice, Ah Clem.

Between me posting my first post, and you replying, I tried again to fly the beast

It would NOT take off! Even on full throttle (your post seems to explain why that is anyway).

However, I did get it to take off unintentionally. I don't know why, but I knocked the left/right stick which sent the heli up into the air and crashing into the wall of my girlfriends house !

Now I have 1 set of broken blades, and one of the pitch link ball bearings have snapped. All up I have priced nearly AU$50 in replacement parts (including a training undercarraige and a pitch measurement tool).

Seems like I should have done more research into beginner helis before taking the plunge!

I'm trying to find someone who is willing to train me (paid of course) in the Melbourne, Victoria area in Australia. Any takers? Is there anyone here from there? :p

Jason
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Old 04-10-2006, 01:00 AM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by Ah Clem View Post
Are you using training gear? This is a must. If this is your first machine, you picked a real hot helicopter to learn on, so it will be somewhat of a challenge.
I'm in the process of ordering one now... should've got it when I ordered the heli! That's me thinking "oh it can't be that hard!"

Originally Posted by Ah Clem View Post
There should have been a separate addendum sheet included with the instructions showing the revisions to the rotor head made, apparently after the instruction manual was printed. There are two short links which are connected to the blade grip on one end, and the Bell/Hiller mixing lever on the other-these are the ones that you adjust. Be careful when removing the ball links as some have accidentally broken the ball off from the mixing lever.
It's funny that you mention this, as when I first got the heli it didn't work. So I sent it back and they sent me out a new one. The first one had this addendum sheet, but my new one doesn't. Would anyone have one they could scan and send to me?
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Old 04-10-2006, 04:23 PM
  #240  
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Jason,

Try a forum search for "Radd's Flight School". Many people are finding this very, very useful.

Take this very slow and work methodically and you will get there.

Keep us posted.

By the way, you can unplug the motors from the four in one, and use a pitch gauge to set the main rotor pitch (I believe it should be 0 to plus 10 degrees in "Normal" mode). You will still want to dial it in from a hover, but that should help. Make sure that you mark which both connectors go, so that you do not fry the ESC's in your 4-in-1.
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Old 04-12-2006, 07:09 PM
  #241  
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@ Viking

I was looking at the dates on the previous page and I see I was talking with you about your tail motor issue a little bit. In other words I was aware the problem was getting attention. The next time I checked here since then and up to today I have not recieved any PM's. If you where having trouble getting through to Paul D or Karl you could have sent me a PM and I would have recieved an email at work to check into it here.
There must have been some lack of communication or something because Venom would not abandon you or leave you dissatisfied.

Anyhow, I have made it part of my routine to check into these forums and reach out to help customers. Its my way of taking a little bit of the load off of the CS guys.

It would help me to see you tail motor set up in a nice clear photo posted here or sent to me. Maybe then I can understand your motor problem and catch it for you. There has to be something fundamentally wrong with the way the motor is being installed or something else maybe I dont know, there is no way you should have burned up so many motors. I have flown tons of 3D's and tested them and crashed them and fixed them and never seen that issue. Thats a stout little motor too.

Another option is to send the whole kit back to us to look it over and fix it for you. Provide the CS guys with reciepts of the blown tail motors and I believe they could replace the 4in1 under warranty at no cost to you.

If your still interested there are still options and I can help you get to that point and have fun with your 3D. There are several magazines, in print and online, who have written good articles and praised the 3D for is perfomance and value. Its a class leader. There are many more poeple out there who have had great success with it as well. I would like to see you become one of those people who really enjoy their 3D.

Dont take this any other way but the way I mean it, its not personal but just a thought.
If you have any previous helicopter flight and mechanical experience...forget it for a bit, put it aside in your mind.
Get to know the 3D, how it works and what it can do and what it doesnt like to do.
I find the biggest problem with the 3D isnt the model but the customer getting in his/her own way. Think about this for a moment. If you accept the model for what it is you will understand it better and have an easier time with it rather than fighting with it and trying to make it into something its not supposed to be. Thats it, plain and simple. If a customer wanted a TREX, for example, then he/she should have bought one, not the 3D.

Well, as I mentioned before I can help you out if you like, let me know.

Chris
Venom Group International
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Old 04-12-2006, 07:11 PM
  #242  
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Oh by the way there is no need for second tail motor on the 3D. There isnt any lack of tail perfomance thats for sure.

Chris
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Old 04-13-2006, 02:55 PM
  #243  
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Viking,

Even if you get the other machine, do not give up on the Venom. As I said earlier, it does fly very well, and it is good to have two different machines and go back and forth between them.

I have seen comments that the 22EZ parts fit the Venom on a couple of forums. I have never explored this further, because Venom does support its product, whereas I have seen no technical or warrantee support from Walkera. I would rather have the factory support, than save a little money.
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Old 04-13-2006, 10:29 PM
  #244  
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Sorry I didn't get back to you guys sooner but have been a little busy withthe new trex. I understand the problems with the Venom weren't a bred in problem with the design, they were a string of lousy parts and luck. Anyhow it's all a done deal now. I shouldn't have been flaming up the ol' thread but after weeks of fooling about wih the same issue over and over I had just about went back to flying planks. But I still dont undestand where you come off saying that you never got any PM's from me.... I wrote your CS department. 9 days later they sent me a reply and I had already solved the problem. So take THAT how you want it. You have a company to work for I have a hobby to work on. You need to talk it up and I need to state the truth.

nuff said
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Old 04-18-2006, 12:48 AM
  #245  
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@ Viking

I dont want to argue with you but I dont work in the CS Dept. so I dont see their emails, I was talking about PM's here and that I would be alerted to them through my inbox in Outlook at work. I have no such emails. Thats it, plain and simple.

Chris
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Old 04-18-2006, 01:11 AM
  #246  
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LOL... well without a doubt if I would have known to send you a PM and not an email to the CS listed on the Venom website it would have such. But I sent it to CS and not you. This isn't an argument.
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Old 04-19-2006, 01:15 AM
  #247  
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Hi I just bought the nr3d and I finally saw sense and built some training gear. It flew well hovered pretty well in my confined space living room. I'm taking it very easy. After a crash I had to fix the ball joint off the wing but now when I tested it there was a lot of vibration under power. It didn't lift untill 3/4 power then jumped and so did I.
On close inspection the pitch changed heaps when I got to lift off power [3/4 power] and didn't return to 0ish pitch when I throttled back it stayed at high pitch.
This causes the mototr to bog down. None of this happened before the crash!
Any ideas? I'm off to buy a pitch gauge and a lippo as short flight times and long charge times on the stock battery is just plain old frustrating.
I like the heli although it is touchy and I'm going to try moving the servo holes back one to calm it down as per Chris' advice
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Old 04-19-2006, 09:17 PM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by viking View Post
LOL... well without a doubt if I would have known to send you a PM and not an email to the CS listed on the Venom website it would have such. But I sent it to CS and not you. This isn't an argument.
No worries

Chris
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Old 04-19-2006, 09:22 PM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by KRS View Post
Hi I just bought the nr3d and I finally saw sense and built some training gear. It flew well hovered pretty well in my confined space living room. I'm taking it very easy. After a crash I had to fix the ball joint off the wing but now when I tested it there was a lot of vibration under power. It didn't lift untill 3/4 power then jumped and so did I.
On close inspection the pitch changed heaps when I got to lift off power [3/4 power] and didn't return to 0ish pitch when I throttled back it stayed at high pitch.
This causes the mototr to bog down. None of this happened before the crash!
Any ideas? I'm off to buy a pitch gauge and a lippo as short flight times and long charge times on the stock battery is just plain old frustrating.
I like the heli although it is touchy and I'm going to try moving the servo holes back one to calm it down as per Chris' advice
Check to see if the head block has come loose, the green aluminum part. Slide it to the top of the main shaft's flat for the set screw and tighten it there. Then check your pitch range as described before. Remember to mark your plugs before you take them apart, please, when checking the pitch range.
Let me know how it goes,

Chris
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Old 04-20-2006, 01:17 AM
  #250  
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Head block is fine. Already checked that.
Went back to LHS to show them and ask for help. They said the ball joint I fixed with a screw was too stiff and not allowing free movement off the joint. Which made sense as the heli was not lifting and then just took off with amazing speed. So I bought new parts and that fixed the stiffness.

I also removed some of the brass pins a) to replace broken parts and b) to adjust the linkages on the servo arms to reduce sensitivity.
Some of the brass pins don't seem to click back in and remain loose. not such a good thing. Will burring over the ends gently help? or should I replace the pins altogether?

Somehow and I dont know how I broke a servo casing. as there was nothing to hit it I don't understand???
I read on a forum somewhere and I think Chris recomended it ?? Don't quote me!! That you can replace the servo with a HS55. Well this isn't the case it doesn't fit without majorish mods. Something I am not prepared to do just yet.
I understand the reasons but it would be nice to be able to replace servos with other off the shelf items!!
Then I would be back in the air alot quicker.
I just bought my first lippo battery and dredged up my old soldering iron and put deans plugs on as per Clems recomendations so I could have longer flight times but due to servo issues I've had to leave my new toy up on blocks!!
Doesn't the clock tick slow when waiting for new parts!
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