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A scratch built Wasp from RCM plans

Old 06-10-2007, 04:42 AM
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smokejohnson
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Default A scratch built Wasp from RCM plans

So after some inspiration from a Watthead friend I decided to get out a project I had started before I found the forums. This was going to be my first attempt at electric. Then I found RCG and Wattflyer and figured out how to get in the air a lot faster with foam. Now that I have a few planes flying I thinks it's time to finish this one.

The Wasp has been around for a long time. I cut the plans up to make templates and to build on and I think I threw away the part that had the designer and year. I have a feeling I will be getting my AMA renewed for fathers day and I can look up the info then.

My mentor and the guy that has taught me so well about how to build and fly turned me on to it. He said he built one for a friend and it had great performance. Good vertical, tracked like it was on rails, and was really fast. Now get this...it had 3 standard size servos, a speed 400 motor, and an 8 cell "C" sized battery pack. 1 servo was for the elevator and 1 for the ailerons. The third would flip an on/off switch for the motor, it was wide open or off .

So I'm going to need some help and hopefully I can pick some minds for ideas. When I quit working on it I was stumped on the aileron linkage.

Here's a few pics.
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Last edited by smokejohnson; 09-25-2007 at 11:42 AM. Reason: edit thread title
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Old 06-10-2007, 06:34 AM
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CHELLIE
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Hi Johnson after some of the Outstanding builds that I have seen you make on Wattfliers, your going to have no trouble with that plane, take care & keep up the good work, Chellie
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Old 06-10-2007, 07:59 AM
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Hey Smoke,
Looks like a neat build so far. Sometimes its hard to keep disiplined with a particular project when you have a lot of stuff going on. You are gonna do fine getting this Wasp completed... Maybe we all can help too..
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Old 06-10-2007, 03:47 PM
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Thanks Chellie and Bruce. I forgot to mention is has 2 vertical stabs mounted on the sides of the elevator. Aileron and elevator only.

I was looking at it this morning and my aileron issue is solved...I think. The problem before was I had no idea how small a micro servo really was. The plans call for a torque rod set up through the mounting plate. I couldn't figure out how I was going to glue everything together and still have it come out strong. By luck the depth of the ribs at the spar is just right for a 9gr servo. So I'm thinking of using dual aileron servos.

With the ailerons being thin and not needing much travel I am thinking the 9gr servos will do fine. If memory serves me right the AUW on the plans was around 20 oz. With a brushless, lipo battery, and micro servos I'm thinking I should be able to come in lighter than that, by how much I'm not sure yet.
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Old 06-10-2007, 05:49 PM
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Hey Smoke,
sounds good with the rib thickness that you have...
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Old 06-11-2007, 04:38 AM
  #6  
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I had 1 years ago and it was one fine plane.It was one of the first electric at the club field and jaws dropped when I flew it.I put a single rudder on it instead of the twin fins,I got to have a rudder on a plane.
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Old 06-11-2007, 04:47 AM
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If the space is tight in side mount the ailerion servo outside on top the wing.I have done it on several of my designs when I want to cut the cross section down.
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Old 06-11-2007, 11:09 AM
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Welcome to Wattflyer foo. It's good to hear from someone on here that has built and flown one.
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Old 06-13-2007, 12:51 AM
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SJ, here's a couple of shots showing aileron servos in the bottom of wings.

I don't know if this helps but it's the only pictures I can find right now.

I like your build.

Can you post a picture of the plans, so I can get an idea what the end product will look like?

Paul
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Old 06-13-2007, 01:16 AM
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Default Nice work !!!

The ailerons don't look too difficult of a challenge, you can go one of two routes since you are using dual servo's. First find the location where you want them to go, you'll then create a mounting plate and box it in between the rib and sheeted forward section, you have a long aileron section, so have plenty of options as to where you want it, but might as well take advantage of letting one side rest against a rib.

From there, decide if you want to do some surgery to the ribs so you can pull the wires through, be sure to leave a piece of thread pre-strung through that area to give you something to tie onto to pull the leads, then carve out an exit port for them, or if you want to go the easy route and let the wires hang down, pinned to the bottom of the wing. I'm doing the latter on one of my current builds since the wing thickness is so much thinner. The 9g servo's will work just fine, in fact, that's the bulk of what I typically have on hand and have used them in some rather fast, heavy, high performance planes without event.

Good luck with the build, she's a nice one.
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Old 06-13-2007, 02:43 AM
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Here's a couple more pics of outside aileron servos.
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Old 06-14-2007, 12:34 AM
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Thanks for the pics and ideas guy's. Now here's where I am going to need some serious help. What power system am I going to use and how am I going to mount it. I found the part of the plans listing the recommended power set ups. If you look though it shows the weight of the airframe at 8 oz with a flying weight of 30?? 20 oz of equipment ?? I know I can come in under that.

I also am thinking of how to mount it. I am trying to post a scanned copy of that section of the plans. If you can see it it calls for drilling a hole through a balsa block and mounting the motor with shims. And then carving the block to shape. It seems to me the motor would get hot like this with not much air flowing around it.

I think I like Pauls idea of making a balsa plug to shape and then making a fiberglass cowl. I could then firewall mount an outrunner. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated.
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Old 06-14-2007, 02:31 AM
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I'd start out acquiring the motor, esc and battery pack first, you are likely going to need to accomodate all three individually so revision in the plans and surgery are likely going to be in order. I'd prefer there to be a piece of light ply to mount to, not balsa, and depending upon what size motor you are going with, you may have to add material, or take it away to get it sticking out the proper dimensions, being sure you are able to slide the esc in, either from the front, or through the cockpit, making the final connections afterwards. The battery pack section will likely need to be revised so that your current one will not slide around, but if you have more room then what you need, you already know the velcro meathod.

This is one of those areas where you have to be sure to accomodate all three at once, so take your time and study where they are going to want to fit naturally.
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Old 06-14-2007, 01:29 PM
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SJ, Saucerguy has some good advice there.
Depending on the power chosen I might use a piece of 3/32 regular ply for the firewall.
That way if you have to shim in right or down thrust you will have something that will remain solid.

For the nose, since the plane is not scale, I would personally opt for more cooling and access to the motor over a fancy cowl.
Look at the picture of the MUS I posted , no cowl at all.

Here's a shot of one of mine with a bare minimum of shaping so it isn't quite as open as the MUS.

If you do decide you want that cowl, once you make a solid firewall, that will be the load bearing part.
The cowl does not have to contribute any strength to the airframe.

Balsa can be glued around the motor to give you something to shape.
A light weight plastic or fiberglass cowl can be screwed to blocks of ply glued to the firewall.
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Old 09-09-2007, 09:26 PM
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It's not AMA plans. I have been searching AMA like crazy and then realized they are R/C Modeler Magazine plans. Here is a link to the plans.
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Old 09-09-2007, 09:33 PM
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I'm going to leave the cowl off for now. Thats a Tower Pro 2408-21 from Jeff at Heads Up RC. The lipo is a 3s 1800 mah 20C Electric Power pack. I decided to go with a single aileron servo and torque rods. I had to order the micro torque rods, my LHS didn't have anything that would work.
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:55 PM
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Ya'll might want to check out this link below. Jeff at Heads Up RC now has the one I built. I'll be building myself another one pretty soon.

http://www.soy.on.ca/wasp.html

Standing By,
SJ
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:58 PM
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If you want a light weight cowl, after you have all of your motor mounting worked out pull the motor off of the nose, tack a block of balsa to the front and shape it as you please. Then cut the tack spots, make sure you have a smooth surface, wipe it down with a tack rag and heat shrink a cola bottle around it. Use a 2 liter clear bottle and cut the bottom off, clean the bottle with soap and water. Put the balsa plug inside the bottle and heat the bottle with a heat gun. Put the nose of the balsa plug near the curved top of the bottle and heat slowly from the top down. Just like with heat shrink for wiring the bottle will close around the balsa plug. Once it is shrunk and cooled down cut the excess from around the bottom. Put a small hole in the bottle cap, screw it on the neck and blow a little air in the hole and the balsa plug will pop out. Now you have a polycarbonate cowl that can be painted with just about any type paint you want to use. Paint it from the inside like the R/C car guys do and you have a high gloss finish that is pretty hard to scratch. If you could make a fiberglass or carbon fiber cowl lighter than this method it would likely crack easy. Try to crack an empty cola bottle. May take a little practice to get the touch but once you get the feel for it I bet you won't want to use anything else again. And the balsa plug can be used over and over again. The same process works great for canopies and if you use a 7-Up bottle you have a tinted canopy. I have not been able to find bottles in other colors and I have not tried to dye one with Rit Dye but it might work.
Hope all of this helps.

Charlie
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Old 09-21-2007, 11:02 PM
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Nice find SJ. How did it fly? I think mine will be much lighter.
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Old 09-21-2007, 11:08 PM
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Thanks Charlie. Thats sounds like something to play around with. I'll give it a try.
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Old 09-21-2007, 11:32 PM
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I never got to fly it due to Jeff talking me out of it before I got the nerve up to fly it. It was the 1st build (kit or otherwise) that I'd done after being out of the hobby for around 25 years or so. I have several photo's of it but I can't figure out how to upload it off my computer onto here. Anyone want to help me out with that? It really did turn out great and a whole lot of work went into lightening the airframe. Yours won't be lighter.



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Old 09-21-2007, 11:40 PM
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I may need to re-think my motor selection. The plans show an empty airframe weight of 8oz. I was thinking the gear would weigh in around 10oz...I don't know I will have to look at it closer later.

Are your pictures too big? I had a problem loading pics until I found an on-line resizer.
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Old 09-22-2007, 12:12 AM
  #23  
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I really don't know how to upload them off my computer. Nothing I've tried is working. All I get is a blank square instead of a picture. I asked Jeff to try and post some photos of it but I haven't heard back from him yet but I will keep trying.

SJ
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Old 09-22-2007, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by proffcharlie View Post
If you want a light weight cowl, after you have all of your motor mounting worked out pull the motor off of the nose, tack a block of balsa to the front and shape it as you please. Then cut the tack spots, make sure you have a smooth surface, wipe it down with a tack rag and heat shrink a cola bottle around it. Use a 2 liter clear bottle and cut the bottom off, clean the bottle with soap and water. Put the balsa plug inside the bottle and heat the bottle with a heat gun. Put the nose of the balsa plug near the curved top of the bottle and heat slowly from the top down. Just like with heat shrink for wiring the bottle will close around the balsa plug. Once it is shrunk and cooled down cut the excess from around the bottom. Put a small hole in the bottle cap, screw it on the neck and blow a little air in the hole and the balsa plug will pop out. Now you have a polycarbonate cowl that can be painted with just about any type paint you want to use. Paint it from the inside like the R/C car guys do and you have a high gloss finish that is pretty hard to scratch. If you could make a fiberglass or carbon fiber cowl lighter than this method it would likely crack easy. Try to crack an empty cola bottle. May take a little practice to get the touch but once you get the feel for it I bet you won't want to use anything else again. And the balsa plug can be used over and over again. The same process works great for canopies and if you use a 7-Up bottle you have a tinted canopy. I have not been able to find bottles in other colors and I have not tried to dye one with Rit Dye but it might work.
Hope all of this helps.

Charlie
Hi Charlie thats a great idea, I am getting a p40 from SG, and will need to make a canopy for it, i might give this a try, wish me luck, thanks again, Chellie
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Old 09-22-2007, 05:06 AM
  #25  
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That would be interesting to see what you come up with Chellie, as you can see with my canopy system, it's pretty easy to incorporate and just happens to match the p40 looks.
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