Forge

Guys,

Well it’s been about 35 years since I built my last balsa model kit – back when I used to use rubber bands to try to power them. Even though I’m a lot older I’ve enjoyed each step along the way.

I only started flying back in Dec 07, but I been having a blast, and I feel like 12 again, I know I am hooked for life.

Over the winter I put together a Great Planes Fokker DVII balsa ARF and had some much fun building it that I decided to purchase and build my first kit.

The other big plus is that my son has been helping me build, and it keeps him off gameboy, and doing something creative and constructive. It’s a great experience, reading and following instructions, increasing his coordination and building skills. We are having a blast!

Anyway, back to the kit. So far we are almost done with the fuselage and will be starting the sport wing kit soon. Brian over at Mountain Models set me up and was a great help with suggestions for fitting the kit out. Product arrived quickly and was very well packaged. The kit instructions are well laid out with good photos all along the way. The balsa and ply parts are beautifully laser scored and pop out very easily. No problems at all so far, and I would definitely recommend their product. It is a relatively simple build. I hope it flies as well as it goes together. (I’m sure it will)

I know my biggest challenge will be when it comes time to cover the kit. I am planning on building some scrap test structures to practice covering some balsa parts before going for the real finished plane. Any recommendations for learning about, or practicing covering, would be greatly appreciated. The last time I covered balsa, I used tissue paper and brushed it with “dope”, boy that stuff had a fine aroma.

So… here are some pictures of what we’ve done so far. We’ll post more as we progress.

Good flying!

Forge

Murocflyer

You might find this covering tutorial very helpful.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711624

Frank

Sky Sharkster

Hello Forge,
Well, you certainly picked a great kit to build! Looks like you and your son are doing a fine job.
Don't let the idea of using iron-on worry you, if you've used dope and tissue you have all the skills needed. The link Frank gave you is the best one for explaining the process. If MM recommends SoLite or Microlite, that's what I'd use, it's the lightest and very easy to work with. It does require the lowest temperature of all the iron-ons, just follow the directions included with the material and you'll be fine. A few practice tries, as you mentioned, is a good idea.
Best of luck, keep us posted!
Ron

Forge

Ron, Frank,

Thanks for the suggestions about covering. And yes, I ordered the SoLite covering from MModels for the kit.

I look forward to the challenge.

Thanks!

Forge

buzzltyr

Forge, welcome to the wonderful world of Mountain Model kits! You and your son will have a blast building it and flying it. I've built five Eva's. The first was a beta for the then-owner of MM, Doug Binder. Managed to dork that one in. Built another one, which I flew for quite awhile, before having gravity assert itself. Built the first Eva Bipe that flew. Built an Eva Bipe for Brian that he uses as his show model. And built another Sport for myself that is still going strong.

If you have any questions about the build, feel free to post them up. The covering thread referenced by Murocflyer is a good one. The iron-on coverings are very easy to work with. A little practice and you will be covering like a pro. Especially if you have experience with tissue and dope.

Enjoy the build, as MM kits build much too quickly!

Mark

Forge

Dear Buzz,

Thanks for the fine story, about MM, and the welcome. I look forward to getting into the air with mine.

I do have a couple of questions, when you have a moment.
1. Are there any tricks to cutting the canopy out cleanly?
2. Is it better to cover the fuselage with Solite or simply spray paint it?

One last thing, my tissue and dope experience is from more than 35 years ago, so it's way burned off the memory banks. I'm more or less starting with no covering experience.

Thanks

Forge

smokejohnson

Looking at the build photos you look like you're taking your time and doing it right. I wouldn't worry about covering it, you guys will do fine with it.

I would use a really sharp pair of scissors and take a little off the canopy at a time until I had the fit I liked. I would also cover the fuze with the Solite, I think it will look better than if painted IMHO.

Forge

Smokejohnson,

Thanks for the advice. You're right, I will cover the plane with Solite, as you say, it will look a lot nicer. I'll try the scissors on the canopy too.

We are taking our time, I'm leaving small assignments for my son while I'm at work, and he feels a great sense of accomplishment when I come home. It is an all around great hobby, for both of us.

Have a great day.

Forge

Sky Sharkster

Hello Forge,
Here's a photo step-by-step on covering a wing with MicroLite, pretty much the same material as SoLite. My iron setting was "Low".
Posts # 61 + 66
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=33844&page=3
Hope this helps!
Ron

pd1

Nice job Forge. When it comes time to install that canopy, give some thought to sticking it on with just a narrow strip of covering material.

I glued one on with CA, it fogged up the inside of the canopy, looks awful.
With other glues that stick to the covering , I find they are more work than the strip of covering.

Paul

Forge

Hey Paul,

Thanks so much for the suggestion about attaching the canopy. it's nice to benefit from someone else's experience. I appreciate the tip and will try your technique.

One other question, I have seen some nice photos of darkened canopies. Do you know any special techniques to achieving a good finish like this? Is it simply spray painted, or some sort of film process?

Here's a link to an example, if Im not explaining it correctly:
http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...roducts_id=216

Thanks!

Forge

pd1

There is a spray paint at the hobby shops the rc car guys use.
It will tint the canopy. They use it for car bodies.

Don't try to tint it with any dye that requires hot water.
The canopy can change shape in hot water.

Paul

Forge

Awesome, I learn something new every time I come to this site.

Thanks for the insight!

Forge

smokejohnson

Hey Forge, the picture of the Four Star in my gallery has a painted canopy. I just used cheap black spray paint from a rattle can and painted the inside. Works great. I did the canopy on my Wasp the same way, cheap black spray paint on the inside.

pd1

Everybody learns something new.

Paul

smokejohnson

As well as I did from you Paul. My camera does not work well enough to show you guys but on the Wasp there are some messed up spots where I glued it on. The CA smudged the paint and rubbed off a little bit here and there. It's hard to notice unless you are looking for it. Problem is I can't help but look at it now .

aero_k

I'd really like to build a balsa kit soon, and Mountain Models is my first choice for kits. The EVA series look good because when you want a "new" plane, you only have to buy the wing. On my very limited budget, I like the soudns of that. For some reason, the thought of covering a plane scares me a little, but I LOVE the look of a nicely covered balsa plane with the internal structure showing through. I look forward to seeing how this plane turns out.

Forge

Guys,

Just about ready to start covering the plane and have a question that someone with more experience me may be able to answer.

The manual states, "Attach the ailerons to the wing with a strip of packing tape cut down to a 1" ”width"... same thing for the rudder and elevator.

Is this the best way to attach the control surfaces? After all of the covering work, it seems kind of disappointing to mess it up with packing tape. The wood at the control edges is thin, approximately 1/16". Would I be better off adding balsa stripping along the edges to thicken it up, cut hinge slots, and then attach them with CA hinges? Or, is a strip of tape the answer? If so, any tape recommendations, and do you use tape on both top and bottom?

Thanks for your help. I will be posting some a photo updates later tonight.

Forge

pd1

Forge, there are many ways to hinge control surfaces.

Packing tape is only only one.
If you're covering the plane with plastic film, (Monocote, Towercoat) you can use a strip of that material. You can use a strip top and bottom. You have to hold the surface deflected opposite the hinge to get enough material for movement.

Blenderm tape is another way. It's flexible medical tape.

I like GWS hinges for thin wood hinging.
For heavier controls I like DuBro pinned hinges.

There are also CA hinges, they work well for heavier applications but I personally don't like them.
I think they are stiff enough to create more current draw by my servos.

Forge

Paul,

Thanks once again for the feedback. I will be covering the plane in SoLite.

When you use the GWS hinges do you slot the wood or just glue them to the outside of the control surfaces? (If it's on the outside do you have to cut away the covering material?)

I also have a couple of rolls of Blenderm in my inventory.

Thanks

John

smokejohnson

I used 2" packing tape for the hinges on my 1MORStick. I've been using packing tape for hinges on my foamies for awhile now...works good. The way it sticks to the iron on covering I don't think it will be a problem and it's easy enough to do.

Forge

James,

Thanks for the feedback. I may go the tape route, I just wanted to hear what others used as an option. Do you run the tape the entire length of the surface?

By the way, that wing looks great! I may have to try practicing my covering techniques tonight.

Thanks!

Forge

pd1

Forge, I just did a small 20 inch plane using the GWS hinges.
The stabilizer and fin thickness were both 1/16 inch.

I used a very sharp no 11 X-Acto blade.
I made a few small punctures ,then rocked the blade front to rear to connect the punctures. I kept at that until the slot was deep enough.

You have to go slow and be careful but it will work.
If you're not too sure of yourself, I'd go with the Solite or packing tape.

Ron, listed his build on the Corben. It has a lot of good tips.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=33844&page=4
This is how he did the stab and elevators.
Excellent tutorial.

Paul

smokejohnson

Thanks, up close and in person you can see the not so straight lines and a few small bubbles where I put covering on covering but hey it should look great 10 feet up going about 50 mph .

Yes the tape runs the entire length. I put the tape on the bottom of the aileron first and then tape it to the bottom of the wing. Then flip the aileron over and tape the top. I like it best when I have just an ever so small of a gap between the aileron and wing so the tape sticks to itself.

Sky Sharkster

Hi Forge,
Here's some photos of hinges made from Solite or MicroLite, as Paul mentioned (thanks for the compliment, Paul!) on a small Playboy Old Timer and the Corben Super Ace. The Playboy has literally dozens of flights, in all weather, and the hinges have never loosened, although the covering has! It's actually easier than covering the pieces separately and looks neat also.
Here's a separate tutorial on the hinging technique;
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34600 With suggestions on other methods, all involving iron-on film.
Good Luck!
Ron