3D Flying Discuss everything related to "3D" flying including construction, power setups and flying techniques

The "Money Shot"

Old 02-07-2012, 05:29 PM
  #76  
NJSwede
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As long as there's no smoke coming out, life is good! At least the way I fly my plane, the full throttle bursts are short enough that I'm not that worried. (Famous last words... )
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:05 AM
  #77  
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Just received one of these and I'm working on the build. Anyone have assembly or additional photos related to the build? Anything would be helpful...
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:07 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by dcg9381 View Post
Just received one of these and I'm working on the build. Anyone have assembly or additional photos related to the build? Anything would be helpful...
I don't have any photos, but I'd be more than happy to help you out with any questions you may have. Just keep the questions coming!

Have you built a balsa ARF before?

Congrats to the plane! It's a fun plane.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:55 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by NJSwede View Post
I don't have any photos, but I'd be more than happy to help you out with any questions you may have. Just keep the questions coming!

Have you built a balsa ARF before?

Congrats to the plane! It's a fun plane.
A look at the tailwheel assembly would be nice.
I've built balsa non-ARFs before (gas).

My only other balsa ARF experience is with E-Flight and their assembly is certainly a notch above HobbyKing. I note what I paid for the thing, so I think I'm getting a good mix of value and pre-assembly.

My experience so far:
1) Out of the box, the position dowels on the right wing were broken and pressed into the wing.. Probably due to some compression in shipping.
2) The main wing spar won't fit (per everyone elses review) - at least not without a lot of muscle... I'll get to sanding it soon.
3) My 2-year old son likes it. "That's a cool plane, dad..."

Power:
I'm probably overpowering this a bit. I ordered:
NTM Prop Drive 35-48 Series 900KV / 815W
and a 3600ma 4-cell battery, HK recommended... Now I'm reading that I should fly it light.

I do have a .32 class 3-cell motor around here somewhere and a 2800ma battery. I'm reading now that I should fly it light.
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:09 PM
  #80  
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* Don't try to force in the wing spar. You'll break the wood that holds the tube in place. Ask me how I know.

* I have the same motor. It's very powerful, but is a great match for the plane as far as I can tell. With a 4s and a 13x6.5 I'm pulling 809W WOT, which is right at the rated max power (815W) for that motor. It should hover just slightly above 1/2 throttle on that setup. The 3600mAh pack may be a tad heavy. I'm flying it on a 3000mAh, but the folks who really know 3D say it'll fly much better on a 2200-2600mAh. With a 3000mAh I get 7-9 minutes of flying.

* CG should be about 1/3 from the leading edge for your maiden. Then you can move it backwards if you want to do 3D.

* Be generous with the glue on the hinges. I'm not a believer in the "thin CA and capillary force" method, so I simply soaked the hinges in CA and pushed them in. Messy, but I got good adhesion.

* The tail wheel assembly needs to be bent and a hole needs to be drilled into the rudder. It's VERY important you line it up perfectly and get the pivot point in the exact right place, or your rudder function will be severely impaired. I can send close-ups of my rudder installation if you want.

* Check the stiffness/quality of the wood on the horizontal stabilizer/elevator. As you probably know, there's been reports of it breaking, so you may want to install some simple CA braces if you feel you might need it.

* Control surface deflection: I set mine up for about 30 degrees ailerons, 45 degrees elevator and the rudder to go as far as possible (until the horn hits the fuse). I think I may increase the aileron and elevator throws a bit, but that would require servo arm extensions.

* The top and bottom of the plane look really similar, so you may want to get some decal film to change up the color scheme a bit. Makes orientation a lot easier.

As a sport plane, it's really easy to fly, so don't fret the maiden. If you have everything set up correctly, you'll be amazed how well she flies and how easy she is to fly. I'm no 3D master, but I can do some basic elevators, harriers and crappy hovers with it.

Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:20 PM
  #81  
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I don't like CA hinges, from my days of flying gassers. Eventually the 2-stroke exhaust mix gets in there and the glue will fail. I'm picking some real hinges up at the hobby store today. I epoxy and pin them in.

A photo of the rudder/tailwheel would be great.

Did you brace your horizontal surface?
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:51 PM
  #82  
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ain't no oil on electric planes. I'd build the hinges as desinged. that's not the weak area.

I'll be starting on my MS as soon as i'm done with my current Sbach 300 shock flyer build. I'll be taking LOTS of pictures and doing a review as soon as I can.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:34 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by dcg9381 View Post
I don't like CA hinges, from my days of flying gassers. Eventually the 2-stroke exhaust mix gets in there and the glue will fail. I'm picking some real hinges up at the hobby store today. I epoxy and pin them in.

A photo of the rudder/tailwheel would be great.

Did you brace your horizontal surface?
Yes, I braced the hstab. Honestly, I don't think it was needed. The wood is pretty sturdy, but better safe than sorry.

Here's a picture of my tail wheel installation. I just drilled a hole all the way through the wood about an inch from the bottom of the rudder, made a 90 degree bend on the wire, injected some CA into the hole and pushed the wire right in. It's been holding up really well. I also cut a shallow groove along the leading edge of the rudder, smeared on some epoxy and sunk the downward-pointing part of the wire into it. A bit hard to see on the picture, though.

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Old 03-11-2012, 03:51 AM
  #84  
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Got it.. thanks.. Just what I needed... (or didn't need, as I've got the rudder on there)
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:09 AM
  #85  
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First flight today:
With a 4s 3600ma, it's heavy. With 900w of motor, it's still vertical capable.
It's not fast. The chord on this plane is obvious.

It's really an intermediate sport plane. Very happy inverted, slows well, good roll rates and capable of a lot of elevator authority. It's pretty easy to fly and as it's not real fast and fairly large, probably a good first 3d selection.

I tried a few high altitude hovers, but couldn't get them to hold. I suspect for two reasons:
1) Lack of pilot skill.
2) CG too far forward.

Knife edges hold course, they don't require aileron or elevator deflection to stay on path. I found that the nose was still falling out, again, probably due to CG and a need for more rudder deflection.

I configured mine with flapperons, but didn't use them. They were triggering a slight right roll, I didn't want to trim it out and flapperons trigger tip stalls - this plane lands slow enough.

I'd compare it's manners to an E-flight ultra-stick, other than it's better looking and holds inverted and knife edge much better..
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:34 PM
  #86  
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Congratulations on the maiden!

You need to drop some weight to fly 3D. Michael Wargo suggests going all the way down to a 2200 mAh battery.
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:14 PM
  #87  
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How much time do you get out of a 2200mah?
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:30 PM
  #88  
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Default MS build update.

Started working on mine Saturday:

Battery: Flightmax 4000 4s (big and heavy but a standard battery for me.)

Motor: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=18165
ESC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...k_70A_ESC.html
Servos: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=13422
Servo Horns: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=3750

Surface Horns: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...4mm_5pcs_.html


I've got the motor and ESC mounted, main wheels attached, The vertical and horizontal stabs glued, and the elevator / rudder servos in.

I'm taking lots of pictures and plan on doing a full review, but so far:

The Bad:
1) Wing tube would not fit in wings or body. Sanding like crazy to get it to fit.
2) My big batteries wouldn't fit, so I had to dremel some plywood.
3) Wing rib cracked next to each servo hole in the same place on both wings. Doesn't look like they will be structural problems.
4) Rudder slot full of glue, Had to use a mini file to get it all out.
5) Rudder sat crooked. used 3 hands to hold it straight while it dried.
6) Elevator sat crooked. a small amount of sanding straightened it out.
7) Rudder to tall. I have to choose between a big gap at the top, or sticking past the bottom of the plane.
8) Thin spot in the plastic of the canopy. Need to be very gental with it.

The Good:
1) Motor mounted right up with no fussing. Perfect length also.
2) All surfaces flat, straight, and true.
3) Servos were a perfect fit (even the pre-drilled screw holes).
4) These servos are FAST like crazy FAST. And they still have gobs of torque. If they work well I'm probably going to replace the JR servos in my E-flite Extra 300 with a set of these.
5) Looks very nice.


Tonight I have to stop and get some servo extensions for the ailerons and replacement bolts for my surface horns since the bolts they come with are to long. I am replacing them because I hate those stupid 2 hole plastic horns. i can NEVER get both holes to line up right. I like these single bolt horns as they are very easy to install and very precise.

Pictures and full review to come.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:40 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by dcg9381 View Post
How much time do you get out of a 2200mah?
I haven't tried them myself, but since I get about 9 minutes from a 3000mAh, my guess is that you'd get 2.2/3*9=6.6 minutes from a 2200mAh. I'd set the timer for 5 minutes and take it from there...
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