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Mystery Swap Meet Find

Old 02-09-2012, 05:24 PM
  #26  
Old Fart
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Batteries in the cowl? Possibly, but without knowing how much battery is going to be required it would be hard to say - but you're correct - there will be lots of them. You might be able to get them ahead of the CG. I usually only weight the cowl if I have no other option - my E-Flite PT-17 has about 3 shotgun shells of #8 epoxied in the cowl (and it already has a Power 25 that's bigger than the recommended motor). I helped a buddy put a 1/4 scale Fokker Dr.1 together with a Zenoah 38, we had to get very creative with places to put lead up front - not sure we could have made that work electric.

As far as putting the fuel tank on the CG, my 36% plane has the tank there - but you're talking a fuse thats almost 8" wide (lots of room). The other gassers (1/4 scale RV-6, 1/7 scale P-47D) have the tanks mounted forward the same as my nitro planes - I just CG them with the tank empty, they start out a bit nose heavy and land neutral.
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by scalercflyer View Post
Mike there is no way you are going to maiden that bird without me! I wanna be there! Marty
Hmm, I'm a NY Giants fan, so a trip to New Jersey is easy to justify. I work for an airport, could probably borrow a plane (honestly, do they really USE all those 767's?)....count me in for the maiden too
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:25 PM
  #28  
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Here's one approach I've used in the past (for both electric and fueled aircraft)

Build the plane as far as you can without committing to a power source (covered, servos in if possible).

Stick the plane on a CG machine. It's not going to balance, but you should be able to push down on the nose and get a rough idea of how much weight you'll need. I've even put a fishing scale on to pull down (unused fishing scale - I fish at the market )

Source some lead. I like the local dive shop (My 36% plane took 3 lbs on the engine box before I shifted the CG rearward)

"Place" the lead ahead of the CG to get it to balance. No cheating - if you can't PUT 4 lbs of lead ahead of the firewall, you can't PLACE 4 lbs there to valodate the amount required.

Look at how much (and where) you put the lead.

Now you can start looking at stuff at the component level. 2 lbs ahead of the firewall? You need 2 lbs of power plant, OR something less than 2lbs AND a secure method of attaching the remaining weight (that also doesn't look like yecch). Remaining weight can "become" batteries, servos, etc "between" the CG point and the firewall.
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:11 PM
  #29  
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I think I'm going to surprise you. I'm going to probably have 10,000mah of 6s lipos (4x 6s 5000mah packs) ahead of the firewall right behind and to either side of the motor. The RX pack will go up front too if necessary. That can be a 4 or 5 cell GP3300 mimh pack. Have to figure out if I can fit a dummy rotary in there too. I won't bother with trying to make it rotate. I'll be happry with three or four cylinders sticking out the bottom of the cowl. I'm already looking into how to rebuild the tail feathers using aluminum tube rather than balsa/bass/ply.

Mike
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Old 02-11-2012, 03:20 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart View Post
I could easily bankrupt myself just on the "1/3 scale" page at Balsa USA
I have always wanted the 1/3 scale Flybaby Bipe.
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:59 PM
  #31  
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Mike a little trick with your found jewel. If you go with a couple of jugs sticking out of the bottom of the cowl, build em as a separate unit. And mount them so they can swing out of the way when you nose over. Ain't a DR1 out there that hasn't.

I did so on my NP version and other then a couple of scuffs I haven't broken em yet.
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:48 PM
  #32  
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Cool GG. Good idea. Any pics?
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:03 PM
  #33  
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I just measured for prop clearance with the tail up just above horizontal (slighty nose down) and I can go up to a 35" prop!!! That's huge.

Mike
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:03 AM
  #34  
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Hey Mike, I'm guessing somewhere are 22-24" prop turning slowly ought to do it. I have a set of 1/4 scale DRI plans which are about the same size as that monster. I'll check the prop size on them. Of course you could always sell that Baby to me and not have to worry about these trivial technical problems! Marty
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:30 AM
  #35  
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Funny Martin.

Actually the 1:1 prop is 2660mm/122.76"/10.2'. At about 1:3.31 scale that's about a 40" prop. Don't forget, this isn't 1/4 scale it's 1:3.31. The prop arc brings the tip down to just below the bottom surface of the landing gear wing.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:38 PM
  #36  
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Man Mike! Where are you going to get a prop that big! Marty
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Old 02-15-2012, 04:06 PM
  #37  
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Lawnmower blade? Ultralight supplies? Make my own?

Last edited by CarreraGTSCS; 02-15-2012 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:11 PM
  #38  
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Kidding aside, what with the popularity of 30% and 33% scale 3D models there are a lot of choices. Actually I'll buy what I can at Lebanon next month. I usually stock up on props and covering at swap meets.

We missed out on getting a table this year. All sold out. If you know of anyone who bought a table and isn't going let me know and I'll buy it from them.

Mike
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:10 PM
  #39  
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Default Lebanon Flea Market

I'm going too Mike! As a matter of fact I've been going there over 25+ years! Not looking to buy anything in particular, but you never know what you'll find. Kinda kicks the season off for me. Marty
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:47 PM
  #40  
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Here is my idea of mounting my motors and batteries in my 1/4 scale Proctor Nieuport 28C. I tried this in my Carl Goldberg Piper Cub and works beautifully. I am using a Tacon 160 motor with 80amp HV Esc. The batteries are 2 -5000mah 5S 45c lipoly with a 19x10 prop. Slip them in the drawer and slide the whole works in place. Push one 1/16 wire across and it will no come out until I want the nose off again.

Near the bottom of this page.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_85..._6/key_/tm.htm

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Old 03-08-2013, 08:55 PM
  #41  
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So all the thrust is carried by the 1/16th wire in shear at 2 places... so what holds the wire in place (keeps it from sliding out sideways)?

Does wire that thin dent the wood at the shear points?

Do you just run long wires to the rest of the plane, or do you have a quick disconnect connector?



I like that method, don't have a plane yet where there's really enough room or it's built in a way to favor that. Maybe when I get to my Texan or the SIG Skybolt that are waiting in the wings.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:13 PM
  #42  
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Dave,
The wire is a push fit and it has brass tubing guides where it passes through the box and side fuselage frames. It can go through vert. or horiz. The ply is very strong and can be doubled if worried about it. I do not ever see it pulling out. The firewall and the opposing battery box 90 degrees has an angle brass support to back up the glue joints and is bolted each way. The wire passes through that part also. If is was a vibrating gas engine I would worry about it for the pulsations. This battery box works like a desk draw and fits snug. I even candle waxed it for smoothness.

Have a look at my Cub below and read the designers article. This is great idea for many E-powered planes and conversions.
http://forum.bristolcountyrc.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=81

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