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Just got T-28 Trojan. A few newb questions

Old 08-20-2010, 01:48 PM
  #26  
Sagiv
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Originally Posted by Numbthumbs View Post
The main point of being able to reverse on the TX is so that you don't have to take the servo out and re-glue it in the right position. Why do it the hard way??

On the DX6i, from the Main list, press the roller button, go to option 9 (setup list), then go to "Reverse" and press the roller again. Scroll to Rudd and if it is on R, change it to N, or vice versa.

When you say "at no point" does it give me a solid green, how long are you waiting? It should take at least an hour, up to two. Maybe it is already fully charged? Surest way to tell is with a wattmeter, or a decent charger. The balance plug is hard to plug in backwards, because on the bottom, it has two grooves. I don't know the charger you mean, but do you plug in both the EC3 AND the balance plug, or just the balance plug? Could be the battery is bunk as well. A wattmeter or good charger will tell you for sure, and before you risk your plane.

Two of the best investments you can make in the hobby are the above two mentioned items. I and many others will recommend getting them.

Cheers,

I plug in only the little white one (balance plug?)

I've left it plugged in for about an hour last night, and an hour the night before. And it's pretty much been green flashing (ready to charge) the whole time.

When I press the "start/stop" button, it will beep 3 times (per number of cells) and start flashing red (charging) for about 1 second.....then it will beep again 3 times, and go back to flashing green (ready to charge).

When it's done it should give me a solid green, so I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong.

I'm hoping someone else that has a Bind N Fly T-28 can tell me, as they would have the exact same charger as me.
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Old 08-20-2010, 01:54 PM
  #27  
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I agree, a wattmeter as well as a good charger are a must if you are an avid modeler.I have a Fluke Meter from work that I also use to check voltage.
My charger sows my 11.1v batteries are fully charged at 12.6v.
Come to think of it, my nephews new battery came almost completely charged out of the box, it is possible yours is ready to go...
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Old 08-20-2010, 02:06 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SHADY View Post
I agree, a wattmeter as well as a good charger are a must if you are an avid modeler.I have a Fluke Meter from work that I also use to check voltage.
My charger sows my 11.1v batteries are fully charged at 12.6v.
Come to think of it, my nephews new battery came almost completely charged out of the box, it is possible yours is ready to go...
If it were ready I should have a SOLID green light, not flashing green, no?
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Old 08-20-2010, 02:23 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Sagiv View Post
If it were ready I should have a SOLID green light, not flashing green, no?
Yea, I think you're right on that.
But, those little chargers are not very reliable.
Somehow check the battery voltage, you can get an inexpensive voltmeter
and check volts on the EC3 connector, (the Blue one).

I hope you get it figured out, IMO the little chargers that are supplied with the plane are throw away items...
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SHADY View Post
Yea, I think you're right on that.
But, those little chargers are not very reliable.
Somehow check the battery voltage, you can get an inexpensive voltmeter
and check volts on the EC3 connector, (the Blue one).

I hope you get it figured out, IMO the little chargers that are supplied with the plane are throw away items...

I think the plug will also fit the charger that I have from my Super Cub LP. I wonder if I should try that.

The charger that came with the T-28 looks WAY more fancy than the one that came with the Super Cub. It has a choice between 2 and 3 cell, and you can adjust the amps.

On the Super Cub charger there are no options, you just plug it in.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:47 PM
  #31  
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With the rudder 'reversal' problem... there is no problem there at all. If you plug the servo lead into the reciever 'backwards', then the servo will simply not work. The three servo wires are Positive, Negative, and Signal. If you flip the plug upside down, the servo won't even see power.

When you set up a new plane, the words 'normal' and 'reverse' in the transmitter are just to let you differentiate between the two different directions... they are otherwise identical. Most of my planes have at least one of my servos programmed to be in 'reverse', it's just the nature of setting up a plane. So just change your transmitter's programming to get the servo moving the way you want it, and think nothing more of it.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:49 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Insomniac View Post
With the rudder 'reversal' problem... there is no problem there at all. If you plug the servo lead into the reciever 'backwards', then the servo will simply not work. The three servo wires are Positive, Negative, and Signal. If you flip the plug upside down, the servo won't even see power.

When you set up a new plane, the words 'normal' and 'reverse' in the transmitter are just to let you differentiate between the two different directions... they are otherwise identical. Most of my planes have at least one of my servos programmed to be in 'reverse', it's just the nature of setting up a plane. So just change your transmitter's programming to get the servo moving the way you want it, and think nothing more of it.

Good to know. I've reversed the servo on my DX6i.


Now....to the battery issue.
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Old 08-20-2010, 04:02 PM
  #33  
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This is great info. The T-28 has been recommended highly by several in this forum and I'm just saving up the drachma for it, so all of this information is going to come in handy in about three weeks...thanks for sharing.
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Old 08-20-2010, 05:00 PM
  #34  
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Help me (with my battery charging issue) WattFlyer, you're my only hope.

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Old 08-20-2010, 06:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Sagiv View Post
I plug in only the little white one (balance plug?)

I've left it plugged in for about an hour last night, and an hour the night before. And it's pretty much been green flashing (ready to charge) the whole time.

When I press the "start/stop" button, it will beep 3 times (per number of cells) and start flashing red (charging) for about 1 second.....then it will beep again 3 times, and go back to flashing green (ready to charge).

When it's done it should give me a solid green, so I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong.

I'm hoping someone else that has a Bind N Fly T-28 can tell me, as they would have the exact same charger as me.

I have not used the PZ charger that came with my T28 for a long time but I was able to find it, blow the dust off, and hooked up a fully charged lipo to it. Flashing green with three beeps, push the start button, three more beeps and flashing green and red for balance for 5 minutes at most, a 30 second or so solid red and then went to solid green with a 5 second tone. When I did use the PZ charger it worked well for me but could be somewhat fussy about having the amp setting correct to match the capacity of the battery you were charging, and maybe even a little lower that capacity. If all is set correctly ( cell count and amps) then your charger does is not seeing a fully charged battery, or you may have a faulty charger, and need to exchange it. Hard to say if you can not measure the voltage on the lipo.

As with what the others have said the essentials of life are a watt meter, a volt meter and a good battery charger. Watt meters cost more than a DVM but also give you a lot of other information you will need to know to progress in the hobby A decent DVM is pretty cheap to buy and can be used for other application that might be tough to use the watt meter. A good battery charger will give you a lot of information about how your flying practices ( throttle management, flying time, plane size etc) affect your batteries and will help you get the best life out of your batteries. It also makes it easier to move you charging station out of your car and to somewhere a bit safer if you have a problem with a battery while charging.

The stock wheels on my T28 ( I do not think they have changed) were OK, but if you are taking off and landing on grass that is not kept cut short, you might consider changing to a larger diameter, thinner wheel that will cut through the grass more easily. I changed mine to a 2" light weight Dubro and works very well. The one exception to that is that if you consistently land on the nose gear and then the mains you will get damage and need to fix that at some point ( yes that is exactly how I know- lots of balsa and glue behind the lower edge of my firewall, but the landings have improved)

Good luck with the T28. It is a fun plane to fly
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:17 PM
  #36  
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If the balance plug fits into the Cub charger, it will work, I'd give that a try...

I have this charger...http://cgi.ebay.com/TURNIGY-ACCUCELL...ts_Accessories
And this one...http://cgi.ebay.com/AC-DC-LI-PO-CHAR...efaultDomain_0

The Turnigy is my nicest one, it has voltage meter on it...
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:19 PM
  #37  
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The best thing to do at this point is go buy a cheap volt meter and test the voltage at the batteries discharge leads. You will need one anyway if you plan to stay in electric RC. Fully charged it should read near or right at 12.6 volts. If it is significantly less than that you may have a bad charger or battery.

You could call Horizon Hobby for help as well. They are generally very helpful on problems like this with new products.

Last edited by Turner; 08-20-2010 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:32 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dumo01 View Post
I have not used the PZ charger that came with my T28 for a long time but I was able to find it, blow the dust off, and hooked up a fully charged lipo to it. Flashing green with three beeps, push the start button, three more beeps and flashing green and red for balance for 5 minutes at most, a 30 second or so solid red and then went to solid green with a 5 second tone. When I did use the PZ charger it worked well for me but could be somewhat fussy about having the amp setting correct to match the capacity of the battery you were charging, and maybe even a little lower that capacity. If all is set correctly ( cell count and amps) then your charger does is not seeing a fully charged battery, or you may have a faulty charger, and need to exchange it. Hard to say if you can not measure the voltage on the lipo.

As with what the others have said the essentials of life are a watt meter, a volt meter and a good battery charger. Watt meters cost more than a DVM but also give you a lot of other information you will need to know to progress in the hobby A decent DVM is pretty cheap to buy and can be used for other application that might be tough to use the watt meter. A good battery charger will give you a lot of information about how your flying practices ( throttle management, flying time, plane size etc) affect your batteries and will help you get the best life out of your batteries. It also makes it easier to move you charging station out of your car and to somewhere a bit safer if you have a problem with a battery while charging.

The stock wheels on my T28 ( I do not think they have changed) were OK, but if you are taking off and landing on grass that is not kept cut short, you might consider changing to a larger diameter, thinner wheel that will cut through the grass more easily. I changed mine to a 2" light weight Dubro and works very well. The one exception to that is that if you consistently land on the nose gear and then the mains you will get damage and need to fix that at some point ( yes that is exactly how I know- lots of balsa and glue behind the lower edge of my firewall, but the landings have improved)

Good luck with the T28. It is a fun plane to fly

This place is awesome. THANK YOU for taking the time to find and try your charger. I'm gonna look at this post when I get home from work and try again. Maybe my amp setting is too high. Thanks again my friend.


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Old 08-21-2010, 12:27 AM
  #39  
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Ok...just got home from work and am proud to say the issue has been resolved thanks to DUMO01.

I had the amp rate set too high, I turned it down and now it charges perfectly.

Thank you.
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Old 08-21-2010, 03:44 AM
  #40  
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Good deal
glad it worked, hope tomorrow is a good day to fly wherever you are
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Old 08-21-2010, 07:53 AM
  #41  
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Default where connect throttle? Cheap landing gear?

Dumb question: I just got a PNP T-28, and I can't figure out how to connect the ESC to the receiver. The only wires coming out of the ESC are the battery connectors. Shouldn't there be a servo-style connector, from the BEC, that plugs in to the "throttle" connection on the RX?? Do I have to dig it out from somewhere?

Comment: my wheels are very sticky; I imagine they will cause the plane to veer off when I land. Is this normal? The front wheel spins freely, but the other 2 bind to the wire gear. Should I call for replacement?
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Old 08-21-2010, 08:36 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Shrikered View Post
Dumb question: I just got a PNP T-28, and I can't figure out how to connect the ESC to the receiver. The only wires coming out of the ESC are the battery connectors. Shouldn't there be a servo-style connector, from the BEC, that plugs in to the "throttle" connection on the RX?? Do I have to dig it out from somewhere?

Comment: my wheels are very sticky; I imagine they will cause the plane to veer off when I land. Is this normal? The front wheel spins freely, but the other 2 bind to the wire gear. Should I call for replacement?
The ESC should have wires coming out of the same end as the battery plug for the rx. It should also have three for the motor! If not, you need a replacement!

You may have to ream the wheel wells to get them to turn freely, but be careful when you take it off, that plastic hex nut cracks easily!
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