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Old 10-11-2007, 02:51 PM   #26
ripster327
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Default A True Pioneer

Larry,

Thanks for your pioneering labor in experimenting with CorrosionX on your electronics and motor.

Paul
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:32 AM   #27
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I did it in my own self interest, but your very welcome anyway

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Old 07-10-2008, 03:59 PM   #28
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I own CorrosionX 16oz spray ( RED ONE ) I tried it on my receiver and esc ... I soak both in the stuffs for about 10sec and let it dry on a paper tower for about 1 hrs and I tester back my esc in my rc with a glass of cold water throw it in my esc and as stopped this product dont work ? or I dont do good the instructions ?

///

thanks for you help !!!
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Old 07-10-2008, 05:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Jason23 View Post
I own CorrosionX 16oz spray ( RED ONE ) I tried it on my receiver and esc ... I soak both in the stuffs for about 10sec and let it dry on a paper tower for about 1 hrs and I tester back my esc in my rc with a glass of cold water throw it in my esc and as stopped this product dont work ? or I dont do good the instructions ?

///

thanks for you help !!!
You need to let it soak long enough to get inside every where and coat all the little parts very well. Make sure it gets inside the case on the Rx and inside the heat shrink on the controller so it covers ALL the electronic parts. It needs to cover the circuit boards and not just the outer case.

The other thing is that if water touches the crystal in the Rx - especially the socket pins - it will de-tune the rx and it will quit working. CorrosionX will not prevent that from happening.

Its not dead - it will start working again as soon as the water drains off.

I think I need a signature.
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Old 07-12-2008, 11:23 PM   #30
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Nice report on CorrosionX, Larry.
You're right about not using CorrosionX on servos. They (or at least the cheap ones I use ) have BRUSHED motors. CorrosionX or any other insulating contaminant is not good on motor brushes/commutators. It'd be good to open the servo and apply a little CorrosionX to the circuit board. In reality, servos are pretty water resistant and you can get them pretty wet without hurting them.

ALSO coat any exposed metal parts: Clevises, linkage, hinge pins, tailwheel bracket or water-rudder hardware. Don't forget the motor and float-strut attachment screws.

A fuel engine likes CorrosionX as an after-run to keep the bearings from rusting especially if it has been dunked. Particularly a 4-stroke, since most 4-strokes don't purge the bearings as they run, and if you dunk a 4-stroke it chills quickly and sucks water in thru the bearings or breather. I had to re-bearing an OS.91 because of water contamination and bearing corrosion. BOCA stainless bearings and CorrosionX got it running again, even tho the crank and cam were pretty heavily pitted, too.

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Old 08-09-2017, 07:55 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Larry3215 View Post
Do NOT fly off salt water. It will kill the battery packs in just a few minutes and I don't know how well the CorrosionX would work on protecting the esc's and RX's in salt conditions. They use it for Marine electronics, but they don't normally expect a complete dunking in salt water.
With exception to one pond where I am trying not to wear out my welcome I only have access to saltwater. CX is indeed no match for salt, I don't know what is other than good luck and barriers. Wrap your battery's balance thing as it will corrode otherwise, though I've never had batteries die or degrade in minutes or any amount of time, except for one that I left on the ground during low tide.

But yeah, if you can avoid it, lay off the saltwater, it's heavy on the billfold. But if you do, have at least a liter of isopropyl alcohol on you and another bottle at home to splash and dunk exposed electronics. That stuff has saved me many many dollars.

Originally Posted by Larry3215 View Post
P.S. Do NOT be tempted to run your motor while its under water with a prop attached to try to 'motor boat' back to shore. The water has soooo much extra resistance compared to air that the motor will draw huge currents and over load. You will probably kill the controller or battery if you try it.
https://youtu.be/fWHqL9WW8rU

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Old 09-19-2017, 04:48 AM   #32
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a lot of waterproofing a seaplane's ESC has to do with suspending it in the center of the plane without letting it touch any exterior walls. this helps to keep the water away from the components. might have to modify the inside. Also, I heard liquid electrical tape is good stuff, or plastidip.

I figured I could waterproof my ESC by hot melt gluing the open ends, then coating the closed ends with either of those two liquid coatings. If I cook the esc, then I just buy a bigger one.. say I fry a 30 amp. I buy a 40 amp instead and it'll run without overheating because it's oversized and underutilized.

I just flew my Icon A5 a couple weekends back and fried the rudder servo.. of course because it was on the bottom of the plane and as a matter of lack of quality control I've come to expect from horizon or e-flite there was a hole in the seam on the underbelly. I managed to fix it.. it's not pretty on the bottom but no one looks at that part until it's in the air and then it's moving too fast. Here's a video showing what I did and where I relocated the servo in order to reduce future risk to it.


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Old 09-19-2017, 04:16 PM   #33
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Default My CorrosionX experience

Originally Posted by Jim Casey View Post
Nice report on CorrosionX, Larry.
You're right about not using CorrosionX on servos. They (or at least the cheap ones I use ) have BRUSHED motors. CorrosionX or any other insulating contaminant is not good on motor brushes/commutators. It'd be good to open the servo and apply a little CorrosionX to the circuit board. In reality, servos are pretty water resistant and you can get them pretty wet without hurting them.

ALSO coat any exposed metal parts: Clevises, linkage, hinge pins, tailwheel bracket or water-rudder hardware. Don't forget the motor and float-strut attachment screws.

A fuel engine likes CorrosionX as an after-run to keep the bearings from rusting especially if it has been dunked. Particularly a 4-stroke, since most 4-strokes don't purge the bearings as they run, and if you dunk a 4-stroke it chills quickly and sucks water in thru the bearings or breather. I had to re-bearing an OS.91 because of water contamination and bearing corrosion. BOCA stainless bearings and CorrosionX got it running again, even tho the crank and cam were pretty heavily pitted, too.
I too have had great experiences using CorrosionX on 10 or so All-Electric RC Planes and QuadCopters over the last year. I started using this after trashing virtually all the electronics of a Powered Glider than went into the Gulf of Mexico. The battery, servos, ESC all were fried. I was able to dry out the Spectrum 4ch Receiver and get it back by treating it with CorrosionX. I found that the Servo and Battery Connectors would be severely corroded. The Leaded Components on the ESC PCB are also eaten up .... probably both were victims of Galvanic Corrosion. The CorrosionX seems to prevent both Oxidation and Galvanic (powered) Corrosion when exposed Electricals are coated with it.

By the way, this stuff is used by many MARINE and AVIATION shops to water-proof and corrosion-proof electronics and moving parts. They even fog the inside of Cessna Wing spaces when they do PM's.

Here are my lessons learned:

1. Works great for Freshwater Floatplanes.
2. Works great to prevent Corrosion when flying near saltwater.
3. Does not seem to affect plastics
4. Small drops applied to Brushless Motor Bearings to reduce Bearing Noise and doesn't affect Motor operation. (Insulates and Lubricates)
5. Does NOT affect operation of Transmitters and Receiver Boards.
6. I use a Medical Drop-Pump applicator to put small drops precisely. (See attachment)

Here is where I have used it without problems:
1. Put a drop on Motor Bearings.
2. Put a drop on connectors (Servo, EC3, T-type, etc.). Helps when connectors are too tight and to ensure good Ohmic Contact ... T-Type connectors get oxidized with a black film over time.
3. Coat Receiver and ESC PCB's
4. Put a drop on the Servo Shafts
5. Put a drop on all Metal surfaces including pushrods, linkages, hinges, etc.
6. Put a drop on the Control Stick Gimbals and Switch shafts of the Transmitter


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Old 09-19-2017, 04:43 PM   #34
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From a purely electrical standpoint, I tried corrosion x on my first replacement 3 in 1 ESC on my UMX Icon A5 and it didn't manage to keep it flying much longer than the first one which had no corrosion x on it. Maybe I applied it wrong or the constant rubbing of it with my finger to swap bateries ruined everything. I was so disappointed, I bought another one and tried oil based minwax as a waterproof coating on it and it just ended up shorting things out and ruined a second $65 receiver esc combo. That's when I gave up on that plane.

I did hear of something called liquid electrical tape, and it apparently does a stellar job of waterproofing these little units. You have to put a couple coats on but afterward the thing is bulletproof.

also, for the bigger ones, you could get away with hot glue inside each end to seal them up and then paint on a few layers of that liquid electrical tape there as well. Apparently (so I've heard) that's what the navy uses for stuff they want to keep dry as a standard.

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