3D Printing? What is all the excitement about?
08-24-2013, 01:15 PM
#1
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Posts: 121
3D Printing? What is all the excitement about?
Why is there so much excitment about 3D printing?
Let's find out. Go to thingiverse or the universe of things and type in and search for. "servo"
http://www.thingiverse.com/
Today I got 581 hits when I seached for "servo" Okay, so what? That is 581 free servo "things" that you would have to choose from that you could print right now if you had a 3D printer. So what's the catch? You have to have access to a 3D printer to make use of them.
So what exactly is a 3D printer?
A 3D printer is basicly a computerized glue gun. Only instead of squirting out glue it squirts out plastic. With the accuracy of a computer printer. It builds part in layers, Say you are building plastic motor mount. The 3D printer would draw the bottom layer of plastic much the same way a computer plotter draws on a piece of paper. Then it moves up and draws the next layer, stacking plastic layer by layer until you have a complete motor mount.
How strong is it?
That depends on what plastic you use. Most use PLA or ABS . ABS plastic is the stuff legos are made of. If you have ever stepped on a lego with bare feet. It hurts your foot but not the lego. And PLA is even stronger. Just for the fun of it I stepped on a firewall/motor mount/ nose gear mount. I made for an airplane. It didn't break.
Below is the picture, the one in the center is the one I stood on. The picture does not show it very well but the part is hollow. The outline is 15mm thick so it has plenty of gluing surface. But the top is smooth. The holes are for the motor mounting and wires, and of course cooling. The plastic thing at the bottom is where the nose gear will be and the gap is for the steering arm. So intigrated into this one piece is firewall, motor mount, steering arm, not visable are stick attachments point and holes for the cowling all in one part. No trying to cut small holes in plywood here,
This next picture is experimental landing gear for the slowstick. That is why the little square at the top. Not yet ready but close. It still needs some tweaking. There are some size limitations on what you can print. That is why I printed it in three pieces. It is plenty strong might thin it out and make it lighter.
This next picture is of a cowling for an Eflight Mini Pulse. The one on the left is the printed one. The one on the right is the Eflight cowl. The weight is pretty close. I printed this one nose down the program filled in th holes I am not sure why?
This next picture is of a Slowstick motor mount. I got tired of replacing cheap plastic motor mounts that I could get in the hobby shop. The one you are looking at goes to a Slowstick Bi-plane that had a bigger then normal motor. I think the mounting holes are 19mm apart if I remember right. When my son tried to buy them they were back ordered. He didn't want to wait so I designed and printed him one and he flew it the next day. That was a year ago. I made it thicker and stronge, now the motor mount doesn't break every time he hits the prop.
This one I just did for fun. I found the file on thingiverse and thought I would print it. It is acually a model car engine casing. I was thinking maybe I would paint it silver and hide an electric motor in it?
This picture is of some cowlings I made, they are only one layer thick and I wasn't sure how steep of an angle I could print that thinly. It turns out to be about a 45 degree angle is about as steep as you can do reliably.
Let's find out. Go to thingiverse or the universe of things and type in and search for. "servo"
http://www.thingiverse.com/
Today I got 581 hits when I seached for "servo" Okay, so what? That is 581 free servo "things" that you would have to choose from that you could print right now if you had a 3D printer. So what's the catch? You have to have access to a 3D printer to make use of them.
So what exactly is a 3D printer?
A 3D printer is basicly a computerized glue gun. Only instead of squirting out glue it squirts out plastic. With the accuracy of a computer printer. It builds part in layers, Say you are building plastic motor mount. The 3D printer would draw the bottom layer of plastic much the same way a computer plotter draws on a piece of paper. Then it moves up and draws the next layer, stacking plastic layer by layer until you have a complete motor mount.
How strong is it?
That depends on what plastic you use. Most use PLA or ABS . ABS plastic is the stuff legos are made of. If you have ever stepped on a lego with bare feet. It hurts your foot but not the lego. And PLA is even stronger. Just for the fun of it I stepped on a firewall/motor mount/ nose gear mount. I made for an airplane. It didn't break.
Below is the picture, the one in the center is the one I stood on. The picture does not show it very well but the part is hollow. The outline is 15mm thick so it has plenty of gluing surface. But the top is smooth. The holes are for the motor mounting and wires, and of course cooling. The plastic thing at the bottom is where the nose gear will be and the gap is for the steering arm. So intigrated into this one piece is firewall, motor mount, steering arm, not visable are stick attachments point and holes for the cowling all in one part. No trying to cut small holes in plywood here,
This next picture is experimental landing gear for the slowstick. That is why the little square at the top. Not yet ready but close. It still needs some tweaking. There are some size limitations on what you can print. That is why I printed it in three pieces. It is plenty strong might thin it out and make it lighter.
This next picture is of a cowling for an Eflight Mini Pulse. The one on the left is the printed one. The one on the right is the Eflight cowl. The weight is pretty close. I printed this one nose down the program filled in th holes I am not sure why?
This next picture is of a Slowstick motor mount. I got tired of replacing cheap plastic motor mounts that I could get in the hobby shop. The one you are looking at goes to a Slowstick Bi-plane that had a bigger then normal motor. I think the mounting holes are 19mm apart if I remember right. When my son tried to buy them they were back ordered. He didn't want to wait so I designed and printed him one and he flew it the next day. That was a year ago. I made it thicker and stronge, now the motor mount doesn't break every time he hits the prop.
This one I just did for fun. I found the file on thingiverse and thought I would print it. It is acually a model car engine casing. I was thinking maybe I would paint it silver and hide an electric motor in it?
This picture is of some cowlings I made, they are only one layer thick and I wasn't sure how steep of an angle I could print that thinly. It turns out to be about a 45 degree angle is about as steep as you can do reliably.
Last edited by RepRapper; 12-13-2014 at 07:23 PM. Reason: adding pictures
08-27-2013, 03:18 AM
#3
love to build!
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: nj usa
Posts: 3,692
3d Printing Human Body Parts - Image Results this was the title to pictures of replacement bones and various body parts and organs. truly scary how technology is advancing.
08-27-2013, 03:51 AM
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Shenandoah Valley Of Virginia
Posts: 393
Interesting! I've been reading stuff about this from time to time. Concerning the cost of these printers and supplies.....where do they start?
Any recommendations on what to look at and where if a person was interested?
Any recommendations on what to look at and where if a person was interested?
08-27-2013, 06:17 AM
#5
Super Contributor
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,780
our 3d printer was built in our garage. it uses 3/8" (or 10mm for you metric lovers 
) all thread. the rest of the parts are essentially built on the same type 3d printer you are building. the software is free. the stepper motors are cheap and easily accesable. the electronics can be built, bought premade or purchased as part of a kit. we power ours with an old computer powersupply.
starting out from scratch, it will cost.between $200 and $500.
check out reprap.org and thingy verse.
) all thread. the rest of the parts are essentially built on the same type 3d printer you are building. the software is free. the stepper motors are cheap and easily accesable. the electronics can be built, bought premade or purchased as part of a kit. we power ours with an old computer powersupply.starting out from scratch, it will cost.between $200 and $500.
check out reprap.org and thingy verse.
12-20-2013, 07:53 PM
#6
Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: New Jersey, USA
Posts: 1,281
Some amazing things happening in 3D printing. Some new printers out there and new price points. This 3D Printing forum looks like a good resource. Found some good technical info on it and learned about a new company. 3DStuffZone
I like the new Makerbot printer. Also I saw a company I think in Europe somewhere that is doing some amazing stuff with laser sintering and titanium for aerospace and medical devices. Arcam AB was the company name. Some interesting applications.
I like the new Makerbot printer. Also I saw a company I think in Europe somewhere that is doing some amazing stuff with laser sintering and titanium for aerospace and medical devices. Arcam AB was the company name. Some interesting applications.
12-20-2013, 08:59 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,780
makerbot is literally a commercialized copy of the reprap. they built a reprap, put it in a plywood box and added $500 to the price tag of a free open source project. the new makerbot is not even capable of printing in abs plastic.
if your willing to pay for a pre assembled and more limited machine, then go for it. I don't like people that steal other peoples ideas that are given out for free and then make money off of it. one thing that makerbot has done though, they have developed software that is a bit more user friendly, although still based off of the first reprap software.
if your willing to pay for a pre assembled and more limited machine, then go for it. I don't like people that steal other peoples ideas that are given out for free and then make money off of it. one thing that makerbot has done though, they have developed software that is a bit more user friendly, although still based off of the first reprap software.
12-22-2013, 10:09 AM
#8
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 121
Makerbot
The Makerbot is actually a really good michine. I wish I could afford one. I am using Makerbot electronics on mine and I am using their software. If you are looking for a turn key system that is prebuilt and ready to go pretty much right out of the box it is a very good option. If you want to save a lot of money there are some other options now such as the "up" printer or one I have been thinking about is the printerbot. Both have options that are prebuilt. When I got started the only option was to build one, unless you had about $50,000.00 to invest in a small comercial machine.
Then came Adrian Bowyer at Bath Universty who started a movment that has made them affordable to almost anyone. He realized that a 3D printer could make it own parts or have "children". The nice part about having a reprap is you can make the parts for a friend and he can have one too.
You can buy all the plastic parts for a "reprap" which stands for replicating rapid prototyper on ebay for around $75.00 US. Then the electronics will cost you another $100.00 or so. Everything else you can pick up at the local hardware store and consists of things like nuts and bolts, and threaded and and smooth rod.
If you don't like hardware stores you can get complete kits at MakerFarm.com. That saves a lot of hassle.
The more complicated stuff like the hot end you can buy on ebay for around $50.00
if you don't want to build that.
The bottom line is you can now have a 3d printer for about the price of an airplane. If you choose to build one you can probably do in about the time it takes to build an airplane. And the best thing is it can help you build your next airplane too.
Then came Adrian Bowyer at Bath Universty who started a movment that has made them affordable to almost anyone. He realized that a 3D printer could make it own parts or have "children". The nice part about having a reprap is you can make the parts for a friend and he can have one too.
You can buy all the plastic parts for a "reprap" which stands for replicating rapid prototyper on ebay for around $75.00 US. Then the electronics will cost you another $100.00 or so. Everything else you can pick up at the local hardware store and consists of things like nuts and bolts, and threaded and and smooth rod.
If you don't like hardware stores you can get complete kits at MakerFarm.com. That saves a lot of hassle.
The more complicated stuff like the hot end you can buy on ebay for around $50.00
if you don't want to build that.
The bottom line is you can now have a 3d printer for about the price of an airplane. If you choose to build one you can probably do in about the time it takes to build an airplane. And the best thing is it can help you build your next airplane too.
01-28-2014, 07:28 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,780
I am now using almost all 3d printed parts for my slow stick.
3d printed motor mount, carbon fiber hybrid landing gear and of course our battery boxes. soon, wheels, tail wheel and many other things will come.
3d printed motor mount, carbon fiber hybrid landing gear and of course our battery boxes. soon, wheels, tail wheel and many other things will come.
01-29-2014, 02:06 AM
#10
love to build!
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: nj usa
Posts: 3,692
hayofstacks, i have 2 words to describe those pc's you made for the stick.........i'm jealous
.
to add a few more words would be it looks very cool to be able to design motor mounts and other parts like that. very cool. stu
.to add a few more words would be it looks very cool to be able to design motor mounts and other parts like that. very cool. stu
01-29-2014, 04:12 AM
#12
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Utah
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landing gear and motor mount are crash tested.
I lost a elevator servo while I was shooting touch and goes. ended up over a snow bank and went over the curb. no damage done, even the prop survived. my millennium x gear failed me my first rough landing.
I'm shooting for dubro. what nickel and dimes me is the hardware. next is a servo tray and steerable tail wheel. if we break a wing mount, dads got one all drawn up.
also looking at making a 10mm square to carbon fiber arrow shaft to replace the fuse if we kill it.
I lost a elevator servo while I was shooting touch and goes. ended up over a snow bank and went over the curb. no damage done, even the prop survived. my millennium x gear failed me my first rough landing.
I'm shooting for dubro. what nickel and dimes me is the hardware. next is a servo tray and steerable tail wheel. if we break a wing mount, dads got one all drawn up.
also looking at making a 10mm square to carbon fiber arrow shaft to replace the fuse if we kill it.
01-29-2014, 07:50 PM
#14
Ochroma Pyramidale Tekton
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackstock, South Carolina
Posts: 3,029
Originally Posted by tobydogs
3d Printing Human Body Parts - Image Results this was the title to pictures of replacement bones and various body parts and organs. truly scary how technology is advancing.
01-29-2014, 09:52 PM
#15
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 8,952
Originally Posted by FlyWheel
Human body parts? Really?
Now with 3D printing, they really are making things for the human body.
http://www.nbcnews.com/technology/3-...rch-2D11812708
02-18-2014, 10:53 AM
#17
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Posts: 121
Okay so we now have two 3D printers up and running.
The good new is the second printer is a lot better then the first one and it cost about half of what the first one did.. My new 3d printer is the Pusa two from Makerfarm.com. The kit is $450.00. It runs better software called Pronterface. And it will print at higher temperatures so now ABS is an option. ABS plastic does stink but the quality of the prints are worth it. I would say that my first print on the new machine was better then my best print on the old one.
The good new is the second printer is a lot better then the first one and it cost about half of what the first one did.. My new 3d printer is the Pusa two from Makerfarm.com. The kit is $450.00. It runs better software called Pronterface. And it will print at higher temperatures so now ABS is an option. ABS plastic does stink but the quality of the prints are worth it. I would say that my first print on the new machine was better then my best print on the old one.
02-26-2014, 12:27 AM
#18
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 246
WWII Nose Art in 3D
An awesome artist Yan in Quebec created some 3D nose art. Here's a print from my Solidoodle 2 at .200mm height. I have never seen WWII nose art as a sculpture or 3D model before. It is truly unique. -- ggunners
04-01-2014, 08:02 PM
#21
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 99
I've been getting interested. I joined a forum and they are having a contest to give away a 3D printer. Click the link to join and enter (and I get bonus points for the referral 
).
http://www.3DPrintForums.com/index.php?referrerid=2416
).http://www.3DPrintForums.com/index.php?referrerid=2416
12-25-2014, 10:42 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: new zealand
Posts: 299
I invested around $400 in a kit from China,and printed a few parts.I quickly found out,that it's a tinkerers paradise going for a Reprap style machine.
I have upgraded to a better extruder,better electronics(Ramps),so now have around $700 in it.
To get high quality prints takes a lot of calibrating and setting up correctly.
I'm not trying to put anyone off,just mentioning that you will have to spend a bit of time and effort to get it working properly.
A ready-made printer doesn't suffer so much from this,but it will cost a lot more,and still needs periodic adjustments.That's just the nature of the beast.
Also,the quality of the filament makes a big difference to the print quality.
Black is particularly bad,since manufacturers seem to use up all their odd ends and rubbish to make black filament,causing jamming,skipping,and all sorts of grief.
Having said that,I enjoy fiddling with my Prusa i3-style machine as an addition to my modelling hobby.
I intend to print my own quadcopter parts soon.
I have upgraded to a better extruder,better electronics(Ramps),so now have around $700 in it.
To get high quality prints takes a lot of calibrating and setting up correctly.
I'm not trying to put anyone off,just mentioning that you will have to spend a bit of time and effort to get it working properly.
A ready-made printer doesn't suffer so much from this,but it will cost a lot more,and still needs periodic adjustments.That's just the nature of the beast.
Also,the quality of the filament makes a big difference to the print quality.
Black is particularly bad,since manufacturers seem to use up all their odd ends and rubbish to make black filament,causing jamming,skipping,and all sorts of grief.
Having said that,I enjoy fiddling with my Prusa i3-style machine as an addition to my modelling hobby.
I intend to print my own quadcopter parts soon.
12-29-2014, 03:57 AM
#25
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