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Piper L1

Old 08-04-2013, 09:56 PM
  #1  
1geo1
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Default Piper L1

As you all probably know I am returning to the hobby after many years.
I love to build but got my AMA #s and want to fly again in 1-2 months max.
So I will just ask....is anyone familiar with the L-1 from nitroplanes ?
http://www.nitroplanes.com/cmppil472rac.html

Meant L-4, after some research I believe the Stinson L1 is also going on the list....

Last edited by 1geo1; 08-23-2013 at 02:33 PM. Reason: correction
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Old 08-04-2013, 10:44 PM
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WELL, I ordered it- just seemed good for price- now please bring on power systems suggestions etc. as I am new to electric and need all the help I can find- Thanks in advance,
George
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Old 08-04-2013, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1geo1 View Post
WELL, I ordered it- just seemed good for price- now please bring on power systems suggestions etc. as I am new to electric and need all the help I can find- Thanks in advance,
George
Hi George That looks like a nice plane I have had very good luck with all the planes that i have purchased from nitro planes, Knock on wood LOL

here is a nice motor esc combo that will fly it well, its a 60 size e power, check to see that the motor will fit in the cowl, i always use a bigger motor than needed because of CG issues, and use the biggest motor that will fit into the cowl. I would rather have the weight of the motor than having to add dead weight.

60 size e motor combo
http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/...esc-p-329.html

OR

50 size e motor combo
http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/...esc-p-667.html
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:08 PM
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I actually might want to go with( e-gads) nicads at first- the new Lypos scare the hell out of me ( always thought I would die in a fire) know it sounds silly- but....my mom
put it in us-lol

Last edited by 1geo1; 08-04-2013 at 11:10 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:10 PM
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also thinking gearbox ?
just reread- they tell nicads too- now what motor chellie ?

Last edited by 1geo1; 08-04-2013 at 11:13 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:16 PM
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I do NOT recommend NiCads. The danger of LiPos is often really over-stated. If you use a proper charger you are almost certainly fine. (In three years and countless charges on dozens and dozens of batteries, I've had zero problems.) For extra security, some people charge them in a 'LiPo box' or just a kitchen pot or other fireproof container.

If you really really want to avoid LiPos, look at LiFE (A123) batteries.
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:21 PM
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message received- please understand that I live in FL. heat- one year I had a box of candles melt in my garage( workshop) so please understand my point- I am actually
considering a used for garage to store batterfridge ies- bad idea ?
did not mean to get off topic- I appreciate all the help I can get

Last edited by 1geo1; 08-04-2013 at 11:22 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 1geo1 View Post
also thinking gearbox ?
just reread- they tell nicads too- now what motor chellie ?
Noooooooooo dont use Nicads Buy a Fridge if you have to Lipos is the only way to go or A123 cells
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:26 PM
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fridge is OK ?
Probably safer in an enclosed container either way- now that I think about it, what about F%

Last edited by 1geo1; 08-04-2013 at 11:28 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:33 PM
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I've never heard of plain ol' heat causing problems. I live in Kansas. We can't match your humidity but it gets to 110+ in the summer. (Hot glue melts off the planes - I don't use it.)

LiPos will (sometimes) cause a fire if they are severely damaged (such that the inner cells are penetrated) or if they are overcharged or improperly charged. DO NOT use a charger not specifically designed for LiPos. Do not hit them with an axe. Other than that, they're pretty hard to make burn. They developed a bad rep early on when they were being charged on the wrong chargers in the wrong way.

You can get an explosion charging a car battery improperly.

Yes, there are a number of anecdotal stories about them starting fires and they can, but it's really, really rare with any kind of care.

Charging is the most 'dangerous' time and, as I said, you can always charge them in a special container or just in a Pyrex pot.
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:38 PM
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Thank you for that info- In the meantime- I am not looking for this to be scale like- I am looking to re-fly ! with the help of an teacher- same power recommended ?
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:42 PM
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Seems everywhere I read EVERYONE is new to lipo- time for Chell to break
out the URL's
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 1geo1 View Post
Thank you for that info- In the meantime- I am not looking for this to be scale like- I am looking to re-fly ! with the help of an teacher- same power recommended ?
Yes 50 to 60 size e motor will work just fine You can always throttle back and its nice to have the power to get you out of a tight spot if you need it
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 1geo1 View Post
fridge is OK ?
Probably safer in an enclosed container either way- now that I think about it, what about F%
it just needs to be set so its cool 50 60 degrees if you feel you need it.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:12 AM
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Check with kyleservicetech Dennis on the A123 cells, IMHO he is the A123 Cell Guru Also you can Quick Charge A123 cells, and you dont need a Special Charger, just a light cord of the proper length for resistance will charge the A123 cells in about 8 to 10 Mins.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...ht=zip+charger

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25492
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:03 PM
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Great info as always Chellie, looks like I've found my first few solutions thanks to the Forum.
I'm going to go with the 60 size motor combo and 123's- now to figure out how many, lol.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1geo1 View Post
Great info as always Chellie, looks like I've found my first few solutions thanks to the Forum.
I'm going to go with the 60 size motor combo and 123's- now to figure out how many, lol.
Hi George here is a nice A123 battery pack, its equall to about a 5 cell lipo, its has 2-6 cells in Parallel, your plane has a big wing span so it can carry the weight of these A123 / LiFepo cells.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ePo4_Pack.html

or you can buy 2 of these battery packs and hook them up in series for a 6 cell pack. a 6 cell A123 battery pack is about equall to about a 5 cell lipo.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ePo4_Pack.html
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:59 PM
  #18  
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That looks an awfull lot like the battery packs I just replaced in a scooter I have
Time to break out the tools and take scooter apart ( kidding, maybe)
Thanks
ALso I thought I could do this for a certain amount of $- Looks like I will come in at double, some parts of
this hobby haven't changed-lol
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:09 PM
  #19  
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OK- I warned all of you I would be asking a LOT of noob questions,
was thinking about metal geared servo's- but I remember in the past
some had receiver problems using metal throttle connections to engine-
still a concern ?
Also, they offered, and I bought( SUCKER) the gyro (stabilizer) worth it
to try ? Maybe worth ? Ask new club members- answered my own question...still
all input is appreciated
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 1geo1 View Post
Great info as always Chellie, looks like I've found my first few solutions thanks to the Forum.
I'm going to go with the 60 size motor combo and 123's- now to figure out how many, lol.
Yeah
I've got over 100 A123 cells in my various models. Many are going on 5 years old with the same exact performance as when brand new. Just checked my giant scale Big Stick with a 2800 watt motor up front, running on a 12S2P (12 Series 2 parallel) A123 battery pack. This model now has 245 flights on it. That pack is delivering 75 Amps at full power, and I'm charging them at 7.5 Amps per cell. Also have another model with over 500 flights on the same A123 pack.

Those batteries pretty much last the life of the model. And, you can charge them at any rate your charger can put out. I'm recharging mine in 15 minutes with a high powered Cellpro charger.

You can buy ready made A123 battery packs, but its much cheaper to build up your own. It's still a few bucks though. Voltmanbatteries has them at $12 per cell. They come with soldering tabs, making it much easier to build up a pack. You will need a good high power soldering iron, at least 50 watts. I use a 100 watt temperature regulated Weller soldering iron.

These packs to need to be balance charged though, just like any other similar type battery pack.

If you'd like info on how to build up an A123 pack, let me know.
http://www.voltmanbatteries.com/serv...1-dsh-A/Detail

A lot of my club members are using two of these cells as receiver power for their models, ranging from small 60 glow engine power to big 120 cc giant scale gassers. Three guys are using them as receiver packs in $5000 wet turbine models.
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:25 PM
  #21  
1geo1
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I have NO problem with soldering and believe it or not I just fixed a TV my
son dropped by adding jumpers to the board-The work does not scare me
only the technology- remember I am an old gasser-lol-
In the meantime I figure I will get the motor, servos, everything else in
and weigh it- then this noob will ask for even more advice-if thats ok ?
Separate receiver battery pack right, I am not building a glider here...although I love
those too...So what about those metal geared servos- just thinking this plane has
6' wingspan ?
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 1geo1 View Post
OK- I warned all of you I would be asking a LOT of noob questions,
was thinking about metal geared servo's- but I remember in the past
some had receiver problems using metal throttle connections to engine-
still a concern ?
Also, they offered, and I bought( SUCKER) the gyro (stabilizer) worth it
to try ? Maybe worth ? Ask new club members- answered my own question...still
all input is appreciated
Hi Metal gear servos are ok to use, in the past, if an nitro engine had a metal link to the carb. if would produce some RFI, but with a 2.4 radio system its not a problem, if your using 72Mhz, use BERG receivers and BERG crystals, they have the best Ceramic filtering of just about all the 72Mhz receivers out there, i have never had a glitch using BERG receivers, and most 72Mhz receivers dont like E Power, to much RFI for them, but the BERG receivers really shine with E Power, they are made by Castle Creation,

Give the Gyro a try, it may help out a little to break the RUST from not flying in a while
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:17 AM
  #23  
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since I bought it anyway I will do that- with local advice- seems my plane will
fly a lot without me for the first couple months- and thats ok- i LOVE
TO BUILD
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:18 AM
  #24  
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MY SCRATCHBUILT NOSTALGAIR N3 PUP DOESN'T seem so out of
range anymore- IDC if I fly it or not...
just want to do it- you know ?
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 1geo1 View Post
I have NO problem with soldering and believe it or not I just fixed a TV my
son dropped by adding jumpers to the board-The work does not scare me
only the technology- remember I am an old gasser-lol-
In the meantime I figure I will get the motor, servos, everything else in
and weigh it- then this noob will ask for even more advice-if thats ok ?
Separate receiver battery pack right, I am not building a glider here...although I love
those too...So what about those metal geared servos- just thinking this plane has
6' wingspan ?
Sounds good

You don't need a separate receiver battery. Pick up one of those Castle Creations 10 Amp uBEC for receiver power. This unit wires directly across the DC input wires of your ESC, and it plugs directly into the receivers battery input. That $22 uBEC will power any model you have a mind to fly. I've got two of them in my two giant scale 2800 watt electric models.

As for servos, one good one that is fairly reasonable in price is the Hitec 645MG with metal gears. I've got 14 of them in my two giant scale models. We had a club member pile in a wet turbine model in a 8 foot high corn field a week ago, with those 645MG servos. Everyone of those servos came out without a scratch.

As for the A123 battery pack, I've got wiring diagrams, and also have been using some balance connectors purchased from www.digikey.com that work very well. Let me know if you need further info.
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