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Ordered the ASW-28 2.5M!

Old 11-10-2007, 01:07 AM
  #1  
CygnusX1
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Default Ordered the ASW-28 2.5M!

I called up hobby-lobby today and made the move. After weeks of research I chose my third plane. This is going to be quite different than the Easy Glider Electric and the DAW 1-26 foamy.

I am going to build it as a pure glider at first while I research power options. Once I have the plane here, I will measure up the nose and weight and try to match it up to a motor/prop/esc.

I expect the plane to fall around 55-60oz. and to be a pretty fast flyer with wider operating range than the EGE. I'll mostly use it for thermals and just flailing around.

Thanks for all the info that helped me to choose a plane.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/asw28.htm

-Dave
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Old 11-11-2007, 10:51 PM
  #2  
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Hi Dave,

Nice choice, looks great, and you have a catchy name by the way. I'm a ways behind you, just started my EGE but I'm looking forward to going for something exactly like this not too far down the road. I'm already researching the options. Do you have any info or reviews on this model? Who makes it? I'd be interested in hearing any comments or advice that you have or have heard.

Thanks,
Dave
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Old 11-12-2007, 02:20 AM
  #3  
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The only info I have found about the ASW-28 in 2.5M form has been over at RCGroups. There is a pretty nice build thread about the Aerofever ASW-28 which I believe is the same plane. There were some issues as expected. This is a "budget" plane. The good news is that everyone loves how it flies. The bad news is that some of them have slightly warped fuselages and they require some reinforcement along the seam where the two halves of the fuse are bonded. Most reinforcement will be needed in the canopy and under the wing saddle along the belly seam. Also, it will need some reinforcement where the vertical stabilizer meets the fuselage. Supposedly, there are ways to add fiberglass or carbon fiber along the inside of the fuse in the trouble spots to make a very durable plane. I might just stuff a carbon tube in the planes tail-hole and epoxy it in for stiffness. My goal is a tough plane.

As I get the plane, and figure it all out, I will make this a build thread. This will be my first time working with fiberglass so I intend to research quite a bit.

Good luck with the EGE. It is a great plane!
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:47 AM
  #4  
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Hi Cygnusx1,

Looking forward to seeing your comments. I was also glad to pick up the link that you gave to hobby lobby because the aerofever website had disappeared by the time I started trying to look there.

There was another similar model described in RCG where they had a 2.5m asw-28 but he said he had ordered the electric fuselage? The manufacturer website was given as flyflymodel (China) but they don't show the asw-28. I guess we'll see what Ariel can tell us.

It'll be most interesting to me to hear your comments and see his as well. You might like to follow his thread at the end of the aerofever asw 28 thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=694339&page=6
Cheers,
Dave
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Old 11-17-2007, 12:15 AM
  #5  
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I got the plane today so now I have TOO many projects going on at once. The ASW-28 is a Winter project so I will try to curb my excitement and take my time doing it right. I still need to put some floats on my EGE and re-cover part of my foamie DAW Schwiezer.

The ASW-28 is gorgeous. There are a few wrinkles in the wing covering. I may attempt to iron them out. I am not sure what film is on the plane but it looks very thin. It has a very stiff carbon wing rod and the wings seem very strong and stiff.

I am going to measure the nose up for a motor/prop.

-Dave
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Old 11-19-2007, 07:42 PM
  #6  
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I have measured up for a power system and ordered the components.

MOTOR
Scorpion 3008-32 Brushless Outrunner
Stator Diameter ............................ 30.0 mm (1.181 in)
Stator Thickness ............................. 8.0 mm (0.315 in)
No. of Stator Arms ................................................ 12
No. of Magnet Poles ............................................... 14
Motor Wind ........................................... 32 Turn Delta
Motor Wire ....................... 9-Strand 0.19mm (32 AWG)
Motor Kv ........................................... 1086 RPM / Volt
No-Load Current (Io) ................................. 1.14 Amps
Motor Resistance (Rm) ............................. 0.092 Ohms
Max Continuous Current ............................... 28 Amps
Max Continuous Power ................................ 400 Watts
Weight ........................................ 89.5 Grams (3.02 oz)
Outside Diameter ......................... 37.50 mm (1.476 in)
Shaft Diameter .............................. 4.97 mm (0.197 in)
Body Length .................................. 25.9 mm (1.019 in)
Overall Shaft Length ....................... 64.5 mm (2.539 in)

PROP
Graupner Precision CAM Folder:
42mm hub, 10x6 prop, 5mm

ESC:
Scorpion Commander 35A ESC w/ program card

BATTERY
X-Caliber: 15C 3-cell 11.1 volt 2200mah Li-Po Battery.


According to Motocalc, the plane should fly well and I should get a decent battery life out of it. It will be around 43watts/lb max at the prop which should be enough to keep me out of trouble.

Here are the vital stats at full throttle:
Stats: 64 W/lb in; 43 W/lb out; 20mph stall; 24mph opt @ 51% (58:56, 82F); 40mph level @ 82% (20:48, 105F); Climb 793ft/min @ 21.6; Sink -124ft/min @ -3.3.

Last edited by CygnusX1; 11-19-2007 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 11-22-2007, 03:39 AM
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Hey Cygnus,

Sorry if this sounds dumb but, when you cut off the nose (ouch), how do you:
a. know if you've got the shaft completely coaxial with the fuselage or wings (eg. laterally and vertically)?

b. pick an angle for the motor to give slight upthrust or downthrust (i.e. pick the the angle to cut the nose at so you might get some up or down thrust)? Is there a standard angle that is commonly used for this?

c. cut that angle accurately on the fuselage nose? I suppose you can have the plane lined up with horizontal by setting the aircraft so the wings are horizontal but how do you accurately measure the angle of the cut on the nose? Is there an easy way to do this?

I've seen quite a few beautiful conversion examples but I haven't read about how the motor shaft was actually positioned, or the firewall-centerline angle set. It strikes me that these considerations are absolutely critical?

Good luck with it. The plane looks great in the photos. I bet you're itching to get going.
Cheers,
Dave
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Old 11-22-2007, 04:09 AM
  #8  
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Actually it is going to be very painful cutting off the nose on this beauty. I am sure it will be worth it in the end. I am reading and researching as much as I can regarding decalage and thrust angles before I mount the motor. I have heard of people leaving it perfectly lined up to the centerline of the fuselage and then correcting bad habits with flight trim mix/throttle programming. I want to get it as close as possible to correct so that I can shim the motor around with washers later.

A) Possible a laser pointer and some jigs.

B) I am reading tons about thrust angle and will eventually make an educated guess. I will plan ahead to leave room for shimming the angle.

C) Again, line up a laser to the fuse axis and then scribe a circumference around the nose perpendicular to the laser. Creative jigs and geometry-should be fun.


Another cheat I thought about was to fabricate a thin band that would go over the cut nose, to fill any gap between the spinner and the fuse. With a separate "filler" collar, you could change the angle of the motor with washers and then adjust the collar angle to match the spinner so it looks lined up.

This is all to keep my mind occupied. To me, the planning and the build is always 75% of the fun.

Thanks for making me think!

-Dave
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Old 11-22-2007, 03:53 PM
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This morning, I thought of a way to scribe a circle around the nose that puts the thrust angle where I want it!

Stick a paper towel core onto the nose and line it up at the angle you want and trace it onto the fuse! The actual angle can be measured with a level and or a laser pretty easily. The paper core will "shape" itself to match the profile of the fuse nose but still maintain a perfect circumference.
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Old 11-23-2007, 08:20 PM
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Good idea!



Doh! This planes on SALE right now for $159!!

Only 40 mins left on the sale...
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Old 11-23-2007, 08:38 PM
  #11  
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Wow, I emailed FlyFly and they sent me the .pdf build sheet for the model!

Sorry cant attatch it but i can email it if you PM me.

Kudos to FlyFly!
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Old 11-25-2007, 05:46 AM
  #12  
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Here is a picture of why I am sort of limited to 2.5M planes. This pretty much fills my work-room.

most of the wrinkles on the wings came out nicely with a heat gun and some rubbing. This is a mock up assembly.
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Old 11-25-2007, 07:52 AM
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I guess we'll have to call you nice-asw,

One thought about your paper towel roll. You'll still have to set it up so that the longitudinal axis of the roll linesup with the long axis of the fuselage right? I guess that would be pretty easy just by marking or lining up a mark on the roll with the vertical stabilizer?

enjoy,
Dave
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Old 11-27-2007, 01:01 AM
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I just put ALL the parts including the plane, motor, prop, Lipo, esc....everything on the scale and got a weight of 57.8oz I am sure it will be slightly heavier once I lay in some epoxy and glass to reinforce the lower seam. I will also lose some weight when I chop off the nose.

Yes it's pretty easy to find the centerline of the fuse, perhaps using a laser and/or some strings. Aligning the tube would be just as easy. Getting the precise angle, right, and down would require either some trig, a digital level, or both. The main benefit if the paper roll core is that it is a perpendicular reference that will conform to the cross section of the nose. One could roll up a peice of paper to the exact diameter of the spinner and get an exact cut line. I would recommend cutting too little off and sanding to the right size. User, Complexxo, at RCG has been a good source of information on the project as he has converted two different ASW's to electric.

-Dave

Last edited by CygnusX1; 11-27-2007 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:19 AM
  #15  
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Hey Dave,

A couple more thoughts. A paper towel or toilet paper roll is not necessarily round or the right diameter, or even straight, for what you want to do (since they are paper and since they are squishy). Maybe consider getting a piece of pvc pipe of the correct size that you want to match with the spinner and use that instead?


The attached link has an interesting discussion on how this was done for another build. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=715836
Dave
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:22 AM
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I just noticed that you were probably referring to that link.
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Old 11-29-2007, 03:19 AM
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Thumbs up Oh! Wow, I'm in love!

Originally Posted by CygnusX1 View Post
I called up hobby-lobby today and made the move. After weeks of research I chose my third plane. This is going to be quite different than the Easy Glider Electric and the DAW 1-26 foamy.

I am going to build it as a pure glider at first while I research power options. Once I have the plane here, I will measure up the nose and weight and try to match it up to a motor/prop/esc.

I expect the plane to fall around 55-60oz. and to be a pretty fast flyer with wider operating range than the EGE. I'll mostly use it for thermals and just flailing around.

Thanks for all the info that helped me to choose a plane.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/asw28.htm

-Dave
********************************

Hi Dave,

We have same tastes in beautiful lines! I'm with you all the way in this venture. I can't afford that beauty yet, but I'm looking toward the future.

I'm looking into the idea of even a scratch training version out of EPP foam, if such an idea would work. This, of course, is beyond my knowledge... I've asked for feedback from the builders. Maybe those who steered you might know if I'm dreaming.

Anyway, I think you've made a marvelous choice... at least one tempting to me. If nothing else, it'll sure make a pretty decoration.

I have to be a thermal flyer, too, not that you do.

Hope you'll keep me posted. LOL

-- Stan
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Old 12-03-2007, 09:39 PM
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Cutting off the nose and mounting the firewall:

I chose to make the thrust angle parallel to the wing incedence. If I need more down thrust, I can sand more angle into the nose and shim the motor screws. It's not going to be a very powerful plane so I am not too worried about thrust angles. I went light weight, and long battery life, so that I can maximize my thermal seeking.

I pushed a paper towel roll onto the nose, keeping it level and square. The paper towel roll conforms well to the oval nose. Then I traced a circle onto the fuselage from the paper towel roll. The paper tube works perfectly for a 42mm spinner. I cut the nose shy of the line and used a bubble level to maintain the angles during sanding. Of course I first leveled to the wing incedence. Next I cut and ground a perfectly round firewall out of a circuit board from radio shack, and wegded it into place. I then checked to make sure the firewall was even depth to my cut, and spot glued it. Next I will drill it for the motor holes and then assure a proper fit from spinner to fuse. Once fit is good, I will epoxy the firewall all the way around, and might use some glass.

NOTE: A round firewall lets the nose of the plane shaped itslef perfectly to the spinner for a clean transition line all the way around.

-Dave
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Old 12-04-2007, 04:47 AM
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Nice job Dave, I guess you're on your way.
cheers,
Dave
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Old 12-07-2007, 04:13 AM
  #20  
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I finished drilling and epoxying the firewall. When I mounted the motor, the angle was off very very slightly so that the spinner was not exactly flush to the nose cut. I had made the nose cut at the exact angle I wanted, so I needed to shim the motor with thin spacers to get the spinner perfectly lined up.

Then I had an idea. I placed a buna rubber o-ring slightly smaller than the motor's bolt circle, in between the motor and firewall. The screws pinch the o-ring between the motor and firewall. By tightening the screws more or less, the motor's angle can be adjusted precisely by squeezing the o-ring material. Also, it offers some noise and vibration isolation between the motor and the fuselage. To keep the motor screws from backing out, the heads will be lightly CA'd into place once the angle is set.

I was able to get near zero clearance all the way around the fuse between the spinner and the cut. It looks seamless!

-Dave
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Old 12-09-2007, 01:17 PM
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Some pics:
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:46 PM
  #22  
Stan-the-Man
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Default Pretty work, Cyg!

You wouldn't be a dentist in real life, would you, Cyg?

You can work on my teeth any time!

Precision work!

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Old 12-10-2007, 01:31 AM
  #23  
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LOL. Dentist? No, but thanks for the compliment. I am taking my time with this build. The lakes won't be frozen for another month or so. I'm taking my time and trying to do it right. Hopefully it will pay off as a great flying plane.

-Dave
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Old 12-10-2007, 01:36 AM
  #24  
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Look at the snowmans teeth for proof!
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Old 12-11-2007, 06:15 AM
  #25  
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Hey Dave,
Another question that you've probably already considered:

Do you need to ventilate the cockpit to cool the motor at all? If so what are your plans?

Cheers,
Dave
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