Giant Rc Foamie Biplane Scratch Build
#226

[quote=CHELLIE;557370][quote=stevecooper;557154]
ChellieOne:: silver solder a piece across the cut span on those wheels so it don't squat on you,,
lot of plane come'in in!
! bub, steve
I might need a wider landing gear
Hi Steve
I was thinking about cutting the landing gear, in two, and making it wider, that should work ok, and adding some wire half circles under the bottom wing tips for a scuff Guard, i know I am going to drop a wing
or maybe some wing tip Training wheels
It already Has a BiPlane Murphy Training Wing on it
, Take care, Chellie

Hi Steve








#227
Huffy01
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 587

I'd suggest you find another landing gear. It would a shame to cut it up.
May be buy some aluminium flat bar. drill hole for the wheel's ,then find out where your bend's go and stick it in a vise and bend away.
May be buy some aluminium flat bar. drill hole for the wheel's ,then find out where your bend's go and stick it in a vise and bend away.
#229
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca
Posts: 307

[QUOTE=CHELLIE; and adding some wire half circles under the bottom wing tips for a scuff Guard, i know I am going to drop a wing [/QUOTE]
Chellie,
Here's a little trick that I've used for just what you mention. Take an old GWS wheel, a-la slow-stick or TM 400. Cut out the hub and pin-wheel spokes, cut into 2 equal halves and walaah! wing tip half circle skids. Attach as you would a set of wire skids at a fraction of the weight. Your plane looks great
Good luck!
Rick
Chellie,
Here's a little trick that I've used for just what you mention. Take an old GWS wheel, a-la slow-stick or TM 400. Cut out the hub and pin-wheel spokes, cut into 2 equal halves and walaah! wing tip half circle skids. Attach as you would a set of wire skids at a fraction of the weight. Your plane looks great

Rick
#230

Chellie,
Here's a little trick that I've used for just what you mention. Take an old GWS wheel, a-la slow-stick or TM 400. Cut out the hub and pin-wheel spokes, cut into 2 equal halves and walaah! wing tip half circle skids. Attach as you would a set of wire skids at a fraction of the weight. Your plane looks great
Good luck!
Rick
Here's a little trick that I've used for just what you mention. Take an old GWS wheel, a-la slow-stick or TM 400. Cut out the hub and pin-wheel spokes, cut into 2 equal halves and walaah! wing tip half circle skids. Attach as you would a set of wire skids at a fraction of the weight. Your plane looks great

Rick


#234

Thank you Everyone for the complements & suggestions, they are all great
Ok now i have to decide which one to use
I think I may just bend up a piece of aluminum, and make a landing gear, the landing gear in the pic, was the Largest one Hobby King Had, I was also thinking about making 2 halfs, they sell them like that too, I will take a good hard look at it
The fuselage is long, so I think the steering tail wheel i bought should be ok there, This sure is turning out to be a Project
but its fun, I have Friday and Monday off from work, Yeaaaaa so I will devote some more time to it, Take care, Chellie




#235

Id recommend keeping the pivot point aligned with the rudder hinge and dont have a long lever arm on the wheel. Im especially fond of the Sullivan type for 'lighter' giant scale models. Once you get much over 16-18 pounds or so you need to look at other options.
#236

That technique works well on smaller models but on giant scale its really hard on the rudder servo gears when you're landing - especially if there is any cross wind at all.
Id recommend keeping the pivot point aligned with the rudder hinge and dont have a long lever arm on the wheel. Im especially fond of the Sullivan type for 'lighter' giant scale models. Once you get much over 16-18 pounds or so you need to look at other options.
Id recommend keeping the pivot point aligned with the rudder hinge and dont have a long lever arm on the wheel. Im especially fond of the Sullivan type for 'lighter' giant scale models. Once you get much over 16-18 pounds or so you need to look at other options.

#238
#239

Chellie, if your wings have sweep and are staggared like in the drawings you had at the beginning, your going to want the CG a lot further back that 25% of the top wing.
Here is a wing CG calculator that works well for swept wing setups.
http://www.palosrc.com/instructors/cg.htm
Id would calculate the 25% CG location for each wing on its own. Then set the over all CG for the plane at the point mid way between those two locations.
Id guess you will end up closer to the leading edge of the lower wing point where it joins the fuse - depending on the degree of sweep and the amount of stagger. You may end up further back than that - again depending on how much sweep and stagger you end up with.
My Ultimates usually flew best for patern work around that point and were best for 3D a little further back. Your drawings show more stagger than the typical Ultimate though.
Here is a wing CG calculator that works well for swept wing setups.
http://www.palosrc.com/instructors/cg.htm
Id would calculate the 25% CG location for each wing on its own. Then set the over all CG for the plane at the point mid way between those two locations.
Id guess you will end up closer to the leading edge of the lower wing point where it joins the fuse - depending on the degree of sweep and the amount of stagger. You may end up further back than that - again depending on how much sweep and stagger you end up with.
My Ultimates usually flew best for patern work around that point and were best for 3D a little further back. Your drawings show more stagger than the typical Ultimate though.
Last edited by Larry3215; 02-05-2009 at 02:32 AM. Reason: changed link to the one I wanted in the first place
#240

Chellie, if your wings have sweep and are staggared like in the drawings you had at the beginning, your going to want the CG a lot further back that 25% of the top wing.
Here is a wing CG calculator that works well for swept wing setups.
http://adamone.rchomepage.com/cg_calc.htm
Id would calculate the 25% CG location for each wing on its own. Then set the over all CG for the plane at the point mid way between those two locations.
Id guess you will end up closer to the leading edge of the lower wing point where it joins the fuse - depending on the degree of sweep and the amount of stagger. You may end up further back than that - again depending on how much sweep and stagger you end up with.
My Ultimates usually flew best for patern work around that point and were best for 3D a little further back. Your drawings show more stagger than the typical Ultimate though.
Here is a wing CG calculator that works well for swept wing setups.
http://adamone.rchomepage.com/cg_calc.htm
Id would calculate the 25% CG location for each wing on its own. Then set the over all CG for the plane at the point mid way between those two locations.
Id guess you will end up closer to the leading edge of the lower wing point where it joins the fuse - depending on the degree of sweep and the amount of stagger. You may end up further back than that - again depending on how much sweep and stagger you end up with.
My Ultimates usually flew best for patern work around that point and were best for 3D a little further back. Your drawings show more stagger than the typical Ultimate though.
#241

But the real deal with the bipes is:
Find 27% from the leading edge of both top and bottom. Then find the median point of those 2 locations.
That way, no matter what % of stagger your wings have, you can find the right spot.
However, 1 swept back wing and the other straight, can affect that some.

Hope this helps.
#244
#245

Thank you Larry and Chris
My wings dont have a lot of sweep to them, very little, I would rather be a little nose heavy on the maiden flight
its getting there, My Scratch built Katana, that I made for MiniSteve beat a stock C Stryker
Thats Funny, I used a section of 3/8" X 3/8" Square CF in the Wing, because i know how Steve flies
I had to make it strong
For him,
http://vimeo.com/3061750?pg=embed&sec=3061750
Originally Posted by ministeve2003
you Beat a Stryker with a 3D Plane

Originally Posted by CHELLIE
you Beat a Stryker with a 3D Plane

yep...hehehe.... and Charlie now wants to buy the same turnigy motor we got on Daniels Stryker so he can go abit faster.... I don't think he likes the idea of a 3d foamy going faster than his styker...LOL
SK







http://vimeo.com/3061750?pg=embed&sec=3061750
Originally Posted by ministeve2003

Since the video never shows how fast the katana was, I don't have footage yet to doppler it, but I do know it pulled away from Charlies stock stryker-C fairly well... I think thats Pretty dang good for a flat 9mm depron plane....LOL
Power system on it was...
turnigy 40amp esc
turnigy SK series 35x36x910kv
apc 12x8e prop
4cell 1500mah rhino battery
4 hxt900 servos...
SK
Power system on it was...
turnigy 40amp esc
turnigy SK series 35x36x910kv
apc 12x8e prop
4cell 1500mah rhino battery
4 hxt900 servos...
SK







Originally Posted by CHELLIE








SK
#247

Hi Everyone
well I got a little more done, I finished the top wing, I used some low heat towercoat covering and some trim tape, just One more wing to go
why do BiPlanes have 2 wings
Take care, Chellie





