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E-Flite P-47

Old 02-26-2006, 07:29 PM
  #1  
redgiki
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Default E-Flite P-47

After weeks of the bird sitting in my garage waiting on a break in the weather, I finally maidened my e-Flite P-47 yesterday. Here are the specs:
  • Park 450 motor
  • Dymond 2100mAh LiPo. Yeah, there's no balance plug on these batteries, but they are cheap, work great, and seem to last a long time when recharged at around 0.4-0.5 amps.
  • Hitec Supreme radio (a little heavy for this bird, and behind the CG, so I'm going to replace it with something lighter)
  • Hitec HS-55 servos (3)
  • E-Flite brushless ESC
  • Master Airscrew 10x8E and E-Flite 10x8E props
  • Dubro scale wheel struts
Just so you know, I really like flying this bird. She's very pretty in the air, stays up for a good long while (about 12 minutes on a 2100mAh battery), and is a blast to fly. I'm going to list quite a few downsides, but it's in hopes that my bad experiences can help someone else

Positives:
  • Very easy build. I have very little build experience (I prefer flying to building), and found it very straightforward and well-documented for the power choices I made.
  • Once trimmed, she's very solid in a light wind.
  • The 10x8E prop is well-matched for this bird, even at 5000 feet elevation.
  • The Park 450 outrunner is a fine motor for this warbird. Very short takeoff rolls, and lots of power. At my elevation and with the extra weight of the Dubro scale struts and lots of nose weight (more on that later), I couldn't hover her using this motor, but nevertheless it provides a very pleasant flying experience.
  • Having a rudder available in a plane this size made my landing approaches in a crosswind much easier and prettier than in an aileron/elevator-only ship.
  • It's a damn pretty little electric in the air, even with a little fuselage and wing rash.
  • Inverted flight is fairly easy to hold. Not as easy as, for instance, a ParkZone Stryker, but with this motor on the front I never worried about not having enough power to push or roll out of the invert and maintain altitude.
  • Even with extra weight due to additional nose weight, epoxy, a heavy radio, she cruises just fine at 1/2 throttle doing lazy figure-eights and circles. At 3/4 throttle, she can do most aerobatics, and at full throttle she can do enormous loops.
  • For a warbird, she's very docile. The nose just mushes in a stall, rather than tip-stalling like the P-51. With factory throws, the roll rates are just slightly faster than scale at full deflection.
  • Landings were a non-event. I did four approaches to learn her glide path, then brought her right down on the fifth one. On the second flight, the first landing approach was perfect and she settled down at 1/3 throttle easier than my J-3 cub.
  • The battery bay fits a Dymond 3S1P 2100mAh LiPo battery perfectly. Since these are the same size as the Thunder Power 3S1P 2100mAh, those should fit fine too. If you have fatter packs than these narrow-form-factor ones, you may have better luck with not having to add nose weight, but you'll also have to hog out the foam in the nose a bit. Given that these narrow LiPos are almost exactly the same width as a 2/3A battery, you should also have good luck with NiMH packs. And hey, with a NiMH..... less nose weight required!
Negatives:
  • You're going to have to add substantial nose weight if you use the rudder option. From my bench balancing during build, with just aileron and elevator, no landing gear, the CG appears spot-on with the stock motor and prop; using a light brushless motor, rudder servo, rudder hardware, glue, and tailwheel affects the CG mightily. I'm thinking of building a second one in a pure slow-flyer configuration without gear, rudder, or brushless motor later.
  • The stock CG indicator is slightly too far forward for perfect hammerheads. Although easy to handle, yaw performance suffers. With the CG at the factory location (using a CG machine), the elevator required quite a bit of back trim to maintain level flight, and exhibited classic signs of nose-heaviness on landing approaches.
  • To balance at the factory CG, I had to use the full bar of clay, pressed around the nose, and several additional small weights. The weights will be going away one-by-one until I find the sweet spot on the CG; I suspect it's about 1/4" back from the factory-indicated CG.
  • Like most uncovered foam models, the finish is very easily damaged in the hangar. I already have a scratch from one of my fingernails, and a pretty ugly white-ish bruise on the side due to an accident with my CG machine while balancing.
  • Trying to pry the cowling off in order to mount my motor was frustrating. They need to let the paint dry just a little longer before shoving the cowling on at the factory. Or maybe they could wrap the fuse in tissue or something so that the cowling slips off easily.
  • The space is very tight, even for a razor saw, when trying to cut the engine mount stick. You're going to end up taking out a few small hunks of foam even if you're really careful. They are concealed beneath the cowling, so it's not a big deal.
  • The lack of a steerable tail wheel complicates landings a little; once the tail drops, your level of control drops, too. That lack also complicates takeoffs if you attempt to do a scale rollout at half or three-quarters throttle rather than the "jump into the air" full-throttle roll.
  • The two wing panels should really be saved for last in the build. If, as I did, you're going with a flaperon setup rather than a y-connector, the flaperon adjustments may require repositioning of your servo arms. And that double-sided tape on the wing panels really sticks hard! Note, however, that using flaperons as flaps is strictly optional. She floats lightly even in the full-house configuration and nose-heavy.
  • She doesn't handle high winds really well. Like most park flyers, if the wind is faster than 10MPH, you might want to consider keeping her on the ground if you aren't confident at the sticks.
  • The stock throws provide too much elevator and too little rudder/aileron for my taste. Your taste may vary, and luckily suiting that taste is probably just one adjustment away.
  • The stock landing gear location is susceptible to nose-overs on landing. Bending them forward so the axles line up with the leading edge of the wing when sitting on the ground (weight on the axles) clears this up just fine, while providing plenty of clearance for the stock prop.
  • The little black wheel holders suck. I replaced them with some nylon ones, because one of the wheels fell off during the second landing.
  • Some people report that the paper hinges are weak on the ailerons. Mine does not appear to have this problem, but I still don't like how they look.
  • The indicated location for the ESC and radio is rather far back. I put my ESC in the nose, and trimmed some foam to move the radio as far forward in its tray as I could.
Overall impressions:

The E-Flite P-47 is a solid, large-ish park flyer, a ton of fun to fly, and really good-looking in the air. Although fairly slow-flying, with the Park 450 motor it's really too fast to fly within a baseball field, but a large treeless park may do the trick. I fly at an abandoned runway, and there was more than enough space My personal bet is that, in an aileron/elevator-only combination without landing gear, on the stock motor, this bird will be a great flyer even in smaller parks.

With factory throws, rolls are scale-like and pretty. There's plenty of power to push through moderate winds, but gusts above 15MPH will easily throw her around in the air since she's so light. Like many other short-nosed warbirds, tail-heaviness can be a problem; you should be generous with the nose weight, at least for the first few flights, and aim for at or very slightly behind the factory-indicated CG location.

I like it!

One question, though. I notice that my rudder servo only deflects about 50% on one side. There is no chatter from the servo, it just doesn't move all the way. My flying buddy noted this during our preflight yesterday, but we decided to put her up anyway. The transmitter has no EPA set for that servo; should I just plan on replacing it?
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:15 PM
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Default More notes

A few more notes about the two first flights:
  • The E-Flite 10x8E prop puts out substantially more power than the Master Airscrew. However, the E-Flite prop was also pretty far out of balance right out of the box. A prop balancer and some sandpaper fixed that up, but be aware. The MA was perfectly-balanced right out of the box after sanding the couple of stray pieces of flashing off, and is a much, much stiffer and heavier prop. The MA is a little less thrusty, but usually that also means that you'll have a little longer runtimes. Regardless, both props work great. The E-Flite prop has been out of stock for weeks (I think it's a new item), so that's why I have the MAs.
  • My left aileron is a little bit further away from the wing than the right one. This results in a little less deflection, it seems, though I'm not sure. I had to add three clicks of right trim on the maiden, then it tracked perfectly. If I end up doing a substantial rebuild at any point, I'm cutting that aileron out and putting in new CA hinges with less of a gap.
  • There's almost enough room to put two TP2100/Dymond2100 batteries in the battery bay. I think I'm going to take out a bit of foam, put in two batteries in parallel, and see if I can ditch my additional nose weight. If that works, then I'll have a bird with over 20 minutes of runtime at full-throttle. Not bad, and as much nose weight as I had to put in, I think it will work fine. A little more all-up weight will help in the high winds we get around here, too, and as "floaty" as this is on landing, I think it can handle the weight just fine.
  • The little magnet holding on the cockpit hatch cover concerns me. It just doesn't hold very hard. I'll have to do a few more inverted pullouts to see what happens in high-negative-G situations

Last edited by redgiki; 02-26-2006 at 08:16 PM. Reason: Formatting
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Old 02-27-2006, 12:56 AM
  #3  
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Default Last addition!

So for my final addition today, I have to comment on landing on grass. I had only landed on asphalt previously, and it worked fine: bring it in fairly hot, flare at the last moment, life is good.

I followed the same pattern today, but with a critical difference: I was landing on soggy ground with winter grass in a local park. I brought it in hot, bled off some speed, flared, and... the landing ripped the tail wheel off, mount and all.

Next flight, I was bummed, but figured I could do a wheels landing before dropping the tail on the foam. Brought it in and... it ripped the right front wheel off. Mount and all, right out of the foam. The plastic mount is much stronger than the foam. Just like the tail wheel, though, I realized how little glue they use to secure these things in. Just a drop on the front, and a drop on the back of the mount. There was very little damage to the foam, and on the wing it was concealed by the plastic cover plate.

Realizing I'd have a balance problem if I left the other wheel on, I went to my toolkit and found I had left the screwdriver home. So I walked back and pulled the last wheel out by hand. Minimal damage to the foam, again. They hardly hold those plastic mounts in with anything!

My observations:

Well, first off, don't attempt to land with gear on wet, soggy ground with normal-length grass. You'll rip your gear out of the foam. I think stubbier grass, leveller ground, or dryer ground, and it wouldn't have been a problem. I should have been tipped off when I tried to rise off the ground for takeoff, and it just went nose-over rather than scooching forward. Kind of a clue that the grass was too long, but I ignored it and hand-launched.

But second observation? HOLY CRAP, that thing is lighter and more manueverable without the wheels and mounts! Much faster roll, much faster pitch... I didn't notice any improvement in yaw. Plainly faster in the air without the gear drag.

I think the gear are staying off this bird from now on; although I will miss rising off the ground, it just flies a lot better without the gear. For landing, it belly-flops in grass very gracefully, with no damage and just a very slight grass stain behind the set screw holding the wings on. It's now quite nose-heavy, even using the factory CG marks rather than 1/4" back as I prefer, so I can reduce weight even further from the nose now with the tail wheel off. With no gear, this thing flies like a sweetheart, even nose-heavy.

My two cents. If you're going to build this plane to be a hangar queen, or you really want to taxi around, build it with the gear and put a steerable tail wheel on. If you're more interested in how it looks and flies in the air, and have a reasonable grass patch to land in, leave 'em off.
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:32 AM
  #4  
Don Sims
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Thanks for the excellent insight and comments. You need to post some photos of your P-47 when you get a chance!
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Old 02-27-2006, 06:10 PM
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redgiki
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Originally Posted by Don Sims View Post
...post some photos of your P-47 when you get a chance!
OK, but these are going to contain several examples of "what not to do"! Left to right:
  • Rudder photo shows the rudder mod in action. You'll note that, if you do 45 degrees on either side like the instructions indicate, the white area is really large and ugly. Either get happy with the yellow and black paint afterwards, or you can do a MUCH more modest 15 degree or 20 degree sanding job and have a much smaller line. There's really not a lot of room for rudder travel.
  • Wing underside photo. The point of this is to show you what happens to the wing panel if you remove it repeatedly after removing the wax paper from the double-sided tape. Note that it's peeling and lifting? I need to re-tape it. I strongly recommend just relying on the two velcro patches to hold the panel in place until you are ready to maiden the bird. Oh, and a wing servo (Hitec HS-55) popped out on a hard landing; I'd recommend using a drop of epoxy to ensure the servo remains in place even if you do a wing-over.
  • She looks really pretty head-on. Kind of imposing, particularly in a dive
  • The diagonal top-down shot is just to show her off a bit.
  • The next shot, of the right side of the cowl, is used to show you what not to do. Includes some hangar rash, a cowling I want to replace due to damaging the paint and plastic so bad trying to get it off, and the CG location.
  • Close-up of the pilot. Definitely a stand-off-scale bird, but really pretty in the air.
  • Detail of where the tail wheel ripped off on a landing on damp ground. If you're using the gear, stick to asphalt or very well-maintained grass with the E-Flite P-47.
Overall verdict: Looks "foamy" up close. Easily hangar-rashed. Flies great, and looks great in the air. The way I figure it, if I want a bird that looks fantastic up-close, I'll make a non-flying plastic model

EDIT: The day was too beautiful, so even though I work nights I stayed up late to fly through four batteries. The wing cover you see that is a little bit off actually partially came off during a flight, and I brought her down for a quick repair with more double-sided tape easily enough. It's always surprising how quiet this bird is. Now that the props are correctly balanced and the CG is set up right, she can maintain level flight in a figure-eight at around half throttle.

With my timer set for ten minutes (bringing her down by 11), with the landing gear and casual flying I was draining about 1750 mAh. Without the landing gear, that's down to about 1500mAh, and I'm routinely going from full-throttle on the up side of the loops, to 1/4 or so on the downhill slope. That means this motor combination is only averaging about 13-14 amps in flight with the stock prop.

Still working on my four-point-rolls; my nose keeps dropping. Tried scooching the CG even further back to make the rolls more axial, but I reached the point of supreme squirreliness and "I'm glad I was able to land it"... so 1/4" back from the CG marker is a bit too far!
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Last edited by redgiki; 02-27-2006 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 03-04-2006, 10:36 PM
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Default E-Flite P47D

I have one of these and it fly's great. Get rid or those wheels! The're junk and warbirds don't fly with wheels down anyway unless landing. :o I epoxed a couple of wooden mixing sticks to the bottom of the fuselage and sanded em and painted to match under the wing and belly land the plane on any surface. Snow and grass are the best but it you do it right the asphalt can be your friend too. Asphalt will have a tendency to scratch the prop and bottom more then I like so I stick to grass. Landing is like any other plane. glide slope to flare transition and skid it in. No worries mate. The 47 was one of a hand full of planes in the war that saved pilots neck if they had to go in wheels up. That beautiful large belly. The great thing about this plane is that it is totally pradictable at slow speed. No tip stalls or a mushy feel to the controls. My plane balanced perfect right out of the box. No fiddeling. I did have a 450 in it originaly but put that in my P51B and put a 480 in the 47. Its a rocket ship now. Hand launches are not even an issue. Just half throttle and it is flying out of my hand. TP 2100 24c is the power and pheonix 35 esc. Will post pix of the belly skids. I did a belly landing the first flight with out the skids and tore up the foam a bit. Not bad but knew it needed to be protected.
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Old 03-05-2006, 05:40 AM
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Hey Piperfan,
I have a pheonix 25 and would like to do the same set up as your bird. Have you put a watt meter on it? Any thoughts on if the P25 would be overstressed? Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2006, 06:49 PM
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If you try to use a pheonix 25 it won't work. The draw from the motor at even have throttle is enough to draw down the available volts in the battery the esc kicks in. Tried that done that. I had to switch to a 35 and get a new TP 2100mah with 24c output capacity. I am drawing about 12 to 17 amp at full power on the meter. The thing is a rocket ship! Literally takes off from my hand. No toss neccesary. Better to have more available power. Even so after about 10 minutes of flying, if I push the throttle up hard the esc kicks in since the available voltage from the battery has been lowered. I try to make sure I have enough room between the aircraft and the ground in this event. This plane is awsome for doing low passes high speed or slow. This thing is so stable at slow speed! I have to aplaud E-Flite for getting this one right. I am hoping they come out with some other warbirds in this configuration. Perhaps a FW-190 or a Zero? A F6 Hellcat makes an excellent belly landing plane. One thing I don't understand is why even bother with landing gear? The plane does not take off in a scale manner since being so small its not as controlable on the ground like my 1/4 scale. Most park flyers are like this. Well, its off to fly. A little windy here today but no problem for the Jug. This thing penatrates any wind just about. Its my fingers I am worried about. About 38 and blowing about 15mph.
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Old 03-06-2006, 05:15 AM
  #9  
Phred
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Piperfan,
Good info. I'll rethink my motor/esc situation. I had planed on an axi2212 w/ the CC25 for my modded Parkzone P-51, but maybe thats too small a setup? I'm still learning this e-flight stuff. I'm a reformed nitro flyer, but still fly them now and then. BTW, I used to be an A&P and worked on a few Pipers. Cubs to a Malibu.
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:06 PM
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Phred,
I too once flew the oil spewing noise makers. I still have a few 1/4 scale models that are running on Gas though. Its to expensive to move the big ones to Electrics yet. After a few hicups of my E experience I found that your better off spending a bit more and getting a set up more powerful then one that just barely get it in the air. The set ups that were suggested early in my E ventures were no good. Thank good ness for the coming of lipos and outrunners. Can't wait for whats next.
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Old 03-24-2006, 05:34 PM
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slowmover
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Default E-Flight P47

Specs: E-Flight P47
HC2812-1080 Outrunner
TP 2100
3 Blue Bird 371 servos
Blue Bird 4 chan. reciever
Phoenix-25 amp esc
Bench test: 11amp
24.69 AP
270 WP
250 W
First flight impression: . This thing is a rocket at full stick. Best at just under 1/2 throttle.
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:45 PM
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Mine is sitting with all it's hardware and battery on the front porch as we speak. I can't wait to get home!!
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:29 PM
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Crash9
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Piperfan is right about the landing gear. Just added weight and the plane flys and looks better without it. I resently rebuilt my P-47 and glassed it, and when I did I removed all the landing gear mounts to save on weight. This is a great little plane. here's mine. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4107144/tm.htm
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Old 04-06-2006, 09:01 PM
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All you guys that fly with no wheels, how do you keep from banging up your prop? Specially this one, it's 10 inches? I would love the simplicity, weight savings, and ability to fly without a paved strip, but it just seems like you will keep putting the prop out of balance.
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Old 04-06-2006, 10:34 PM
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I've been flying my E-Flite P-47 for a couple of months now, I love it. It's probably my favorite plane. Last time I flew it though, one of the gear came off on landing, and I've been dragging my feet getting it fixed and airworthy again. I was planning on putting it back on, but after reading these raves, I may just rip the other gear off and hand launch it... I'm scared of hand launches though, always afraid it's going to just lawn dart into the ground before I can get my right hand back on the stick. :o
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Old 04-07-2006, 04:55 AM
  #16  
redgiki
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Originally Posted by Piperfan View Post
One thing I don't understand is why even bother with landing gear? The plane does not take off in a scale manner since being so small its not as controlable on the ground like my 1/4 scale.
This is only because we're massively overpowered I did a 1/3 throttle rollout on the salt flats the other day. About 2 seconds in, the tail lifted nicely in a scale-like fashion all on its own, and about 4 or 5 seconds in a light touch of elevator brought it off the ground.

It looked so cool doing a low-throttle takeoff, that even my non-modeling father-in-law commented on how he really liked that takeoff.

Of course, on rough asphalt or grass, my takeoff roll usually resembles something more like "Zzooom!" and it's instantly fifty feet in the air. Or hand-launched.

I have now dispensed entirely with the under-wing covers, as they are just added weight and don't add much to the appearance of the airplane. Thus, the landing gear are easily removeable in about 2 minutes with a jeweler's screwdriver, so I take 'em off when I'm flying at the park, and put 'em on when I'm taking off from asphalt at the field. Best of both worlds.

I replaced the wing, because it was so scratched up, and the elevator too after a two-year-old broke off the corner beyond the panel line and ATE it! I glassed the two surfaces and the belly pan. Minimal weight gain. With gear and battery, my bird weighs in at 25 ounces. Without gear, I save a bit and, as mentioned, it does fly and look much better in the air.

Still a daily driver, every time the weather is nice enough. Sans wing covers, I have the flexibility to belly-land or gear-land pretty much at-will if I take 'em off or put 'em on.
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Old 04-07-2006, 05:03 AM
  #17  
redgiki
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Originally Posted by alienx View Post
All you guys that fly with no wheels, how do you keep from banging up your prop?
Cut your motor right before your final flair. The way this wide-body is angled, if you're landing in grass you'll never break the prop.

Seriously, I've belly-landed dozens and dozens of times, and never hurt a prop when doing so. I've hurt it more with nose-overs with the landing gear on!

This darling isn't like the ParkZone P-51 that breaks props at whim on landing. If you get your speed down as low as it can go, and do what I call the "flare and flop", the belly of the craft has slowed you down to basically nothing by the time it finishes the roll toward the nose on a belly landing. The plane really works well for no-gear landings. It's like it was made for it. Matter of fact, if you just go elevator/aileron with no gear, stock motor, and a LiPo, the bird is so light and slow on the final approach you'd swear it was going to stall on you... but it doesn't.

That said, I'm going to try out some 4S LiPo batteries, and try a much reduced prop size to see if I like a lower-thrust, higher-speed bird

Something that will also help reduce prop breakage is to move your CG back from the factory indicator a bit. Not much. Mine's 1/4" behind that. You'll gain a bit of elevator response, so you may have to mechanically dial it down a bit from what you're used to, but the difference in aerobatic performance and landing angle is worth it. Takes a bird that floats nicely on landings, and makes it float even better You will, of course, want to do the usual upline and downline tests (like with a pattern plane) to make sure you're not tail-heavy.
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Old 04-07-2006, 05:15 AM
  #18  
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You guys are really frustrating me! Mine just arrived yesterday. I've got a Spektrum DX-6 for it on it its way here now and just ordered 2 2100 mAh 3S 15C lipos and charger this evening. The only thing I have left to get is the ESC. All this talk of how great they fly is really making me want to get out and throw it in the air. Unfortunately it's been really windy here for the last 6 weeks and we're currently under a tornado watch.

It's good to hear that it's that nice flying of a plane. I CAN"T WAIT!!!!!!!!

Tom
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Old 04-07-2006, 08:14 AM
  #19  
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Just like everyone who has flown this bird say's it can fly slow and stable it's the same reason I think it can be hand launched so easy and then "belly flop" on the grass. But the prop thing can be a draw back, I go through 1 every 10 to 15 flights even though I dead stick to the ground they can still be damage, but then again I struck a few into the asphalt also. Personally I never wanted to go without the landing gear and I rather use it, but my experience with it and bending it back in place a few to many times (it seem to bend and flex no matter how easy I landed) oh and that un-steerable tail wheel got me in trouble more then once.
I have been known to take this plane every where I go so hand launching and belly landing suited it better sence I will stop at any open field, vacant lot, camping trip, park, baseball field, etc....to fly it and it's in the back of my 4Runner ready to go at any free moments notice.
With it being a NEW plane though, I would fly with ALL THE GEAR, bombs and working rudder and get the most from it, and as things start to wear a bit (break, fall off, etc...) then stick with what fits you. It's a fun plane with all that stuff hanging on it to and if you take care of it it will last along time.
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Old 04-07-2006, 03:18 PM
  #20  
slowmover
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[quote=Grasshopper;59519]You guys are really frustrating me! Mine just arrived yesterday. I've got a Spektrum DX-6 for it on it its way here now and just ordered 2 2100 mAh 3S 15C lipos and charger this evening. The only thing I have left to get is the ESC. All this talk of how great they fly is really making me want to get out and throw it in the air. Unfortunately it's been really windy here for the last 6 weeks and we're currently under a tornado watch.

It's good to hear that it's that nice flying of a plane. I CAN"T WAIT!!!!!!!!

Tom

So far this is the only foamie thatI have that will handle a little wind 10-15. The people at the park just love this thing. Even the glow flyers love it.
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Old 04-08-2006, 09:50 AM
  #21  
redgiki
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Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
So far this is the only foamie thatI have that will handle a little wind 10-15. The people at the park just love this thing. Even the glow flyers love it.
My glow-flyer buddies really enjoy watching it fly, too. I get constant praise for how well it handles, and how pretty it looks in the sky.

As always, I have more advice for newbies:

1. Don't use the wing panels. Yes, the underside of your wing won't look so good, but she'll fly better. Buy grey paint if you must, in order to make the landing gear mount and servo look better. You're creative; I'm sure you can find a way to secure your servo wires without adding ounces of ugly plastic that tend to come off in-flight.
2. If you're moving up from a 2-channel bird, consider building this as elevator/aileron-only, belly-landing ship. You can always add the rudder, landing gear, and bombs later. Or you could follow the opposite advice, above, and build everything on, removing it as it breaks The landing gear are just really fragile. If you're a new flyer, you're going to have lots of hard landings, and the gear mounts in this foam just can't take that kind of abuse.
3. Use packing tape or fiberglass to protect the belly pan from scratches. You may also want to consider using clear packing tape along the edges of the canopy foam piece. They tend to crush easily at those points. I'd submit the wing tips and stablizer tips for this list, too, but packing tape looks awful on them (I've tried)... fiberglass is the best option, and that may be too much for a newbie. Clear packing tape is basically unnoticeable on the belly pan.
4. Pry the cowling off the plane very gently when you're unpacking it. The paint will chip off the plastic if it's bent.
5. They are totally serious in the note included with the plane about tugging on your motor mount and hinges. Don't yank hard enough to break the foam, but you really need to steadily, solidly pull on these to attempt to get them to slip out. If a strong, steady tug pulls them out, you can trust the air would do worse.
6. 30-minute epoxy is best for the motor mount stick.
7. Don't follow the motor mount instructions regarding how much to cut off. Measure it yourself, and test-fit the cowling before gluing anything. You may find, as I did, that they ask you to cut off more than you should, and the prop barely clears -- or doesn't clear -- the cowling with your brushless motor attached.
8. A Thunder Power (or equivalent) narrow-form-factor 2100mAh 3S LiPo battery, plus the stock motor, on a Rudder/Aileron ship generally comes out at exactly the right CG without any extra weight. Your mileage may vary, depending on how much glue you use, but it's a light, solid setup that flies very well.
9. The CG can be safely moved back from the indicators on the wing, but you should start at that factory indicator and work your way back slowly. A nose-heavy plane flies poorly; a tail-heavy plane flies once. Remember that you'll need to decrease your elevator throws as you move the CG back.
10. The factory-indicated elevator throws tend to make for rather twitchy elevator response for a beginner. On the other hand, the aileron throws don't seem quite high enough. Adjust to suit your flying style, but remember that on this bird, it flies just fine with fairly minimal throws.
11. If you are up for the time investment, 1/2 oz fiberglass and 2-3 coats of Minwax polyurethane varnish make for a fairly hard finish on critical parts that improve flying and decrease hangar rash. Recommended bits:
* Tips of rudder, elevator, and wings
* Belly pan (if you didn't tape it)
* Wing leading edges
* Canopy hatch edges
If you can fiberglass the whole bird, so much the better, but that will add substantial weight. Your hangar rash will be eliminated, though, and your bird will have a higher top speed.
12. If you use the landing gear, bend them forward so that the axles are under the leading edge of the wing. This will reduce landing gear stress on landing, and also reduce the likelihood of nose-overs. Bend them when they aren't in the plane! If you try to bend them while they are mounted, you'll rip the landing gear mounts out. (Heh, ask me how I know...)
13. The flat-bottom airfoil of this plane is not ideal for long-duration inverted flight. Be cautious flying inverted near the ground.
14. One of the best spots for your brushless ESC is in that hole below your motor mount stick. Just use servo tape to affix it. You'll probably need to extend your battery cables from your ESC to reach your battery through the servo wire hole, but it doesn't block airflow to your battery down there, and it keeps the weight forward of your CG. If you use the factory-indicated location for your ESC, right next to the radio, be sure to do engine-on range checks prior to flying as this location tends to promote interference.
15. Don't plan on using the ailerons as flaperons. The outboard aileron location will tend to cause tip-stalls if used as flaps. A Y-connector works great. This bird slows down enough on landings that you don't really need flaps at all.
16. Roll rates on the full-scale p-47 were pretty slow compared to other contemporary warbirds, and this scale model is no exception. Don't expect 3D roll rates; it's supposed to be a great scale flyer.
17. The foam used for this bird is quite delicate. Handle with care.

That's all for now...
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Old 04-08-2006, 03:26 PM
  #22  
alienx
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I have mine done but just can't get it balanced with the clay. I need more weight so I am going to look for some lead strips or something (maybe in Walmart's fishing department).

I did bend the gear forward but I need to take it back some. The forward angle increases when you weight the gear, due to slop in the mount. I have to believe it will cause a failure at the mount even under a decent landing. Plus, I have about 1/2" of prop clearance to the ground. I'd rather take my chances with a nose-over than to collapse the gear, or for certain, to hit the prop on the ground.

I have a scale coming from Target. I think I may hold off until I can see exactly how heavy this thing is. It feels substantially heavier already than my cub, which is supposed to be about 16 ounces.
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Old 04-08-2006, 06:59 PM
  #23  
Crash9
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redgiki has it down, what he's recommending is very useful to the newbie. This statment is very true.
9. The CG can be safely moved back from the indicators on the wing, but you should start at that factory indicator and work your way back slowly. A nose-heavy plane flies poorly; a tail-heavy plane flies once. Remember that you'll need to decrease your elevator throws as you move the CG back.
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Old 04-08-2006, 10:46 PM
  #24  
Ron
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alienx...go to the nearest tire store, and get some of the stick on balancing weights...they come in small strips that can be removed in 1/4 ounce increments. they're cheap too. they have sticky tape on the back of them and once on will not fall off
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Old 04-08-2006, 10:56 PM
  #25  
alienx
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Originally Posted by Ron View Post
alienx...go to the nearest tire store, and get some of the stick on balancing weights...they come in small strips that can be removed in 1/4 ounce increments. they're cheap too. they have sticky tape on the back of them and once on will not fall off
Never thought of that. Great idea. Thanks.
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