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E-flite At6 texan Build log(with pictures!!)

Old 07-14-2009, 11:54 PM
  #126  
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This plane is a beauty and it flies well, but it definitely can benefit from a little strengthening if you plan to fly it hard. Have you already ordered it all up?

What kind of flying experience do you have to date? I noticed you said you had a bunch of other planes on order, but I wasn't sure if you had actually built them and flown them yet. That along with the DX6i on your shopping list you posted is why I asked. If you have a good bit of flight experience, now is a great time to upgrade to that radio and use it on the AT-6. If you don't have too much flying under your belt right now, that's still a great radio to have, but the AT-6 may be more of a challenge than you want right now. That's not to say you can't / shouldn't go ahead and build it if you enjoy building. You can always build it now and fly it later, after all. =)

I know lots of people who have been completely fed up by their AT-6's, but I know plenty of others who love theirs. I think it's better to be safe than sorry, though, and with as many people out there that have reported wing failures for the center section of the wing, I think a little extra glue down in that area is a good idea.

Other than that, I haven't heard of too many bad habits except that ground handling is a little tough and that you really need to keep up the speed in your turns so that you don't stall.

I know I am very much looking forward to whenever I finally get mine up in the air.
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Old 07-15-2009, 03:26 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Lancifer View Post
So should i even bother with thsi palne or should i try the eflite mentor??? It comes witha spektrum dx61 and is rtf except it has a 40 amp esc rather then a 60 but comes witha size power 25 motor!! Let me know what you guys and gals think. Thanks
I think the Texan uses a 60A because of bigger battery, and more servos.

It depends, How long have you been flying?
If this is going to be one of your 2nd or 3rd planes. I would try the E-flite Mentor first.
Its not that you Couldn't handle the texan. It would be a hard plane to fly, and if you dont enjoy it / crash it, it would be bad that you spent that much money on a plane that you couldn't properly enjoy.
You could build it and buy the mentor, and save the texan for when you get some training up on the mentor.

Just my 2 cents, i would talk to newjak or pearladdict about your flying experience and building the T-6.

--PvT
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Old 07-15-2009, 03:28 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
This plane is a beauty and it flies well, but it definitely can benefit from a little strengthening if you plan to fly it hard. Have you already ordered it all up?

What kind of flying experience do you have to date? I noticed you said you had a bunch of other planes on order, but I wasn't sure if you had actually built them and flown them yet. That along with the DX6i on your shopping list you posted is why I asked. If you have a good bit of flight experience, now is a great time to upgrade to that radio and use it on the AT-6. If you don't have too much flying under your belt right now, that's still a great radio to have, but the AT-6 may be more of a challenge than you want right now. That's not to say you can't / shouldn't go ahead and build it if you enjoy building. You can always build it now and fly it later, after all. =)

I know lots of people who have been completely fed up by their AT-6's, but I know plenty of others who love theirs. I think it's better to be safe than sorry, though, and with as many people out there that have reported wing failures for the center section of the wing, I think a little extra glue down in that area is a good idea.

Other than that, I haven't heard of too many bad habits except that ground handling is a little tough and that you really need to keep up the speed in your turns so that you don't stall.

I know I am very much looking forward to whenever I finally get mine up in the air.

I tried the Top flite texan on realflight. The plane was easy to fly, and was a hell of alot of fun.
The only problem though was landing, If there is one flaw about the texan at all, is its tendancy to stall on landings.
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:15 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by pvtzemerak View Post
I think the Texan uses a 60A because of bigger battery, and more servos.

--PvT
Just to clear up any confusion, the ESC amperage rating doesn't have to do with the number of servos used (the BEC is what matters for the number of servos, and the E-Flite Pro ESC's have built-in switch-mode BECs, which can handle a good number of servos in a plane this size).

The amperage rating being higher on the Texan's recommended ESC is because this plane is generally propped to draw a little more wattage / power than what the Mentor will typically be. The Mentor is one of Horizon's "Progressive Trainer System" planes and most folks picking it up won't be looking for quite as much power / performance straight out of the box as they will with the AT-6.

The Power 25 motor has a max burst rating of 44A. E-Flite doesn't make a 50A ESC, so that's why they recommend the 60A ESC. It's the next step up from the 40A and that way they know you're covered if you push the Power 25 to its limit. Also, they suggest a Power 32 motor for additional power, which has a max burst rating of 60A. So by recommending the 60A ESC, E-Flite has covered its bases regardless of which of the two recommended motors you use (assuming you go with their recommended setup).

If you chose the right prop and cell-count lipo, you can certainly get away with using a 40A ESC on the Texan. It all depends on how much power you are pulling through your system. If you change the prop to a very aggressive pitch and/or go with a four-cell battery instead of a three-cell, then you have to make sure your ESC will handle the amperage being pulled.

And finally, the 25-sized Mentor is only offered as a RTF package from E-Flite, so it makes sense that they would package it with a smaller, lower cost 40A ESC to keep the costs lower.

Sizing up motor, ESC, battery, and prop combinations can be a complicated thing, because changing any one part of the equation can change the rest of the system requirements drastically. But that's why the 60A ESC is recommended for the Texan in a nutshell. To put it into two words - "Performance headroom."

Hope that helps a little.
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:48 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
Just to clear up any confusion, the ESC amperage rating doesn't have to do with the number of servos used (the BEC is what matters for the number of servos, and the E-Flite Pro ESC's have built-in switch-mode BECs, which can handle a good number of servos in a plane this size).

The amperage rating being higher on the Texan's recommended ESC is because this plane is generally propped to draw a little more wattage / power than what the Mentor will typically be. The Mentor is one of Horizon's "Progressive Trainer System" planes and most folks picking it up won't be looking for quite as much power / performance straight out of the box as they will with the AT-6.

The Power 25 motor has a max burst rating of 44A. E-Flite doesn't make a 50A ESC, so that's why they recommend the 60A ESC. It's the next step up from the 40A and that way they know you're covered if you push the Power 25 to its limit. Also, they suggest a Power 32 motor for additional power, which has a max burst rating of 60A. So by recommending the 60A ESC, E-Flite has covered its bases regardless of which of the two recommended motors you use (assuming you go with their recommended setup).

If you chose the right prop and cell-count lipo, you can certainly get away with using a 40A ESC on the Texan. It all depends on how much power you are pulling through your system. If you change the prop to a very aggressive pitch and/or go with a four-cell battery instead of a three-cell, then you have to make sure your ESC will handle the amperage being pulled.

And finally, the 25-sized Mentor is only offered as a RTF package from E-Flite, so it makes sense that they would package it with a smaller, lower cost 40A ESC to keep the costs lower.

Sizing up motor, ESC, battery, and prop combinations can be a complicated thing, because changing any one part of the equation can change the rest of the system requirements drastically. But that's why the 60A ESC is recommended for the Texan in a nutshell. To put it into two words - "Performance headroom."

Hope that helps a little.
Wow, that jst changed my whole view of using a E-flite ESC.
So a turnigy ESC- http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store...eed_Controller

Would work perfectly fine on the texan?
What do you think the difference would be with power and ect between these two ESCs? Will it be bale to handle all 8 servos?
One last question, where could i get the connecters so it can fit for the power 25 motor ?
Thanks!
--PvT
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:06 AM
  #131  
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Yep, it will work just fine. In fact, I mostly use Turnigy, Suppo, and SuperSimple ESC's for my planes. Didn't we already talk about this a bit earlier in the thread?

As for power differences ... none. You shouldn't see any more or any less performance with one or the other.

The only thing I don't like about the ESC's that have the built-in switching BEC's is that if the ESC happens to fry, you still lose your BEC and all control. If you use a separate BEC, then you have a chance of bringing your plane down deadstick if your ESC should happen to fry.

That said, I still use the ESC's with the built-in switching BEC's. It's just something to consider. Sometimes I use ESC's and then separate BEC's ... other times I use ESC's with the built-in BEC's. Just depends on the plane, the money, and more often than not, my mood.
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:40 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
Yep, it will work just fine. In fact, I mostly use Turnigy, Suppo, and SuperSimple ESC's for my planes. Didn't we already talk about this a bit earlier in the thread?

As for power differences ... none. You shouldn't see any more or any less performance with one or the other.

The only thing I don't like about the ESC's that have the built-in switching BEC's is that if the ESC happens to fry, you still lose your BEC and all control. If you use a separate BEC, then you have a chance of bringing your plane down deadstick if your ESC should happen to fry.

That said, I still use the ESC's with the built-in switching BEC's. It's just something to consider. Sometimes I use ESC's and then separate BEC's ... other times I use ESC's with the built-in BEC's. Just depends on the plane, the money, and more often than not, my mood.
With that being said, i would take the BEC out of those 60A escs, and i would install a 5A seperate BEC?
One last question,
Where could i get the gold connecters so i can plug that into my Power 25?
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Old 07-15-2009, 03:12 PM
  #133  
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Correct. Although you technically don't take the BEC itself out ... you just disconnect the center red wire from the ESC 3-pin connector that goes to the Rx. You can do that by either pushing down on the little part of the pin in the connector that holds it in place and then sliding it out of the connector and wrapping the end in heatshrink or electrical tape, or you can use a servo extension and just cut the middle wire out of the servo extension and then use the extension between your ESC and your Rx.

I'm sure you can find bullet connectors at your local hobby shop if you have one nearby. I think 3.5mm bullet connectors are the norm, but I can't recall for sure at the moment. Anything from 3mm to 4mm should fit fine, though. Otherwise, you can always orders from from HeadsUPRC.com at http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ors/Categories
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:57 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
Correct. Although you technically don't take the BEC itself out ... you just disconnect the center red wire from the ESC 3-pin connector that goes to the Rx. You can do that by either pushing down on the little part of the pin in the connector that holds it in place and then sliding it out of the connector and wrapping the end in heatshrink or electrical tape, or you can use a servo extension and just cut the middle wire out of the servo extension and then use the extension between your ESC and your Rx.

I'm sure you can find bullet connectors at your local hobby shop if you have one nearby. I think 3.5mm bullet connectors are the norm, but I can't recall for sure at the moment. Anything from 3mm to 4mm should fit fine, though. Otherwise, you can always orders from from HeadsUPRC.com at http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ors/Categories
Thanks Pearl,
What ESC would you put in your texan?
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Old 07-15-2009, 07:55 PM
  #135  
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Who's "Pearl?"

I'm using a Suppo 60A ESC OPTO (which means it doesn't have any sort of BEC built into it, so I don't have to remove that center wire) and a separate 3A (continuous ... I think it's 5A burst) switching BEC. If I had a 5A continuous BEC, I'd probably use that instead.

I've got a Turnigy Plush 60A ESC with built-in switch-mode 3A BEC in my parts box, too, but I'm saving that for a plane that doesn't have as much room to fit stuff in since it's a bit more compact.

I already had my parts handy from previous purchases I'd made for other projects, so that's another reason I went with them.
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:28 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
Who's "Pearl?"

I'm using a Suppo 60A ESC OPTO (which means it doesn't have any sort of BEC built into it, so I don't have to remove that center wire) and a separate 3A (continuous ... I think it's 5A burst) switching BEC. If I had a 5A continuous BEC, I'd probably use that instead.

I've got a Turnigy Plush 60A ESC with built-in switch-mode 3A BEC in my parts box, too, but I'm saving that for a plane that doesn't have as much room to fit stuff in since it's a bit more compact.

I already had my parts handy from previous purchases I'd made for other projects, so that's another reason I went with them.
Im not sure if i like suppo's.
I will probably opt with (After you helped me ) a turnigy 60A, remove the BEC and add a 5A burst ESC or a CC 10A BEC.
I found the right bullet connecters for the motor, now i just need to find out how to solder them on
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdId=EFLA241

--PvT
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:26 PM
  #137  
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Why aren't you sure if you like the Suppo's? Not that there's anything wrong with using the Turnigy (or E-Flite for that matter) ... I'm just curious. Any reason in particular?

If I were you, I'd order the bullet connectors from HeadsUpRC. It isn't like Horizon has special bullet connectors or anything, and there really aren't any "right" connectors ... just so long as they fit the wire, you're good to go. Shipping from Jeff @ HURC will only run you $2 (Horizon will charge you $4.99 shipping as well), his connectors are already cheaper, and you get shrink wrap to cover up the exposed ends as well. If you buy from Horizon, you'll be paying $1.03 more and getting less than half as much.

You can even skip the connectors all together and just solder the motor directly to the ESC wires for that matter. I don't prefer that method since it can make installation a little trickier sometimes, but it's another valid method. So don't feel like you have to buy anything special to get them connected up.
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:02 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
Why aren't you sure if you like the Suppo's? Not that there's anything wrong with using the Turnigy (or E-Flite for that matter) ... I'm just curious. Any reason in particular?

If I were you, I'd order the bullet connectors from HeadsUpRC. It isn't like Horizon has special bullet connectors or anything, and there really aren't any "right" connectors ... just so long as they fit the wire, you're good to go. Shipping from Jeff @ HURC will only run you $2 (Horizon will charge you $4.99 shipping as well), his connectors are already cheaper, and you get shrink wrap to cover up the exposed ends as well. If you buy from Horizon, you'll be paying $1.03 more and getting less than half as much.

You can even skip the connectors all together and just solder the motor directly to the ESC wires for that matter. I don't prefer that method since it can make installation a little trickier sometimes, but it's another valid method. So don't feel like you have to buy anything special to get them connected up.
When i order from HC most of my decisions come from the reviews, and im seeing alot of 1 stars for the suppo ESCs.
Idk, i could buy them and like them, but the texan isnt really a plane that i want to try that on.
--PvT
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:01 AM
  #139  
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FYI, never trust anything you read in the HC reviews unless you can independently verify it. I really do mean that. HobbyCity routinely deletes bad reviews, and good reviews routinely have bad information in them. I see people all the time claiming they prop such-and-such motor on 4S at 25A and get 500W of power. Impossible ... the math just doesn't work. So I take everything I read there with a large gain of salt.

The Suppo ESC's I have are all from LightFlightRC.com. The SuperSimple ESC's from HobbyCity are the same thing from what I can tell (at least the non-programmable ones are). However, HobbyCity seems to have rebranded them from "SuperSimple" to "HobbyKing SS." They all have 4 to 5 star ratings.

You'd be hard pressed to find a product with under a 3 star rating on HC's website because of how they manage the rating's system. If you want real, honest reviews, you'll get a lot better information by searching here and on RCG for info on the products.

Not to persuade you away from Turnigy, but all my non-PNP airplanes except one actually run off a Suppo ESC (I have several Turnigys in the box waiting for projects on my shelf, though). Never had a lick of trouble from any of them. Lots of 40A ESC's in my park flyer warbirds (E-Flite P-47, Sea Fury, PZ Spitfire, GWS F-4U, Starmax F-18), and then I've got a 60A Suppo in my Hyperion P-51D 25e, which runs at right under 800W (around 55A on a 4S battery).

So don't be too worried about them. I have some 100A SuperSimple ESC's from HobbyCity that I have yet to run, but I know other folks using them in the same setups that are happy. All my Suppo's came from LightFlightRC, though, and Dave and Sara definitely stand behind their products. Dr. Kiwi here on the forums does a ton of testing on Suppo products (mainly motors), so that's part of why I started using them, too (they make great motors as well!).

Anywho ... that's my Suppo schpeel. But like I said, the Turnigy is a fine choice. I don't think you'll be disappointed either way, especially for the price compared to the E-Flite 60A Pro series ESC.
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:04 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
FYI, never trust anything you read in the HC reviews unless you can independently verify it. I really do mean that. HobbyCity routinely deletes bad reviews, and good reviews routinely have bad information in them. I see people all the time claiming they prop such-and-such motor on 4S at 25A and get 500W of power. Impossible ... the math just doesn't work. So I take everything I read there with a large gain of salt.

The Suppo ESC's I have are all from LightFlightRC.com. The SuperSimple ESC's from HobbyCity are the same thing from what I can tell (at least the non-programmable ones are). However, HobbyCity seems to have rebranded them from "SuperSimple" to "HobbyKing SS." They all have 4 to 5 star ratings.

You'd be hard pressed to find a product with under a 3 star rating on HC's website because of how they manage the rating's system. If you want real, honest reviews, you'll get a lot better information by searching here and on RCG for info on the products.

Not to persuade you away from Turnigy, but all my non-PNP airplanes except one actually run off a Suppo ESC (I have several Turnigys in the box waiting for projects on my shelf, though). Never had a lick of trouble from any of them. Lots of 40A ESC's in my park flyer warbirds (E-Flite P-47, Sea Fury, PZ Spitfire, GWS F-4U, Starmax F-18), and then I've got a 60A Suppo in my Hyperion P-51D 25e, which runs at right under 800W (around 55A on a 4S battery).

So don't be too worried about them. I have some 100A SuperSimple ESC's from HobbyCity that I have yet to run, but I know other folks using them in the same setups that are happy. All my Suppo's came from LightFlightRC, though, and Dave and Sara definitely stand behind their products. Dr. Kiwi here on the forums does a ton of testing on Suppo products (mainly motors), so that's part of why I started using them, too (they make great motors as well!).

Anywho ... that's my Suppo schpeel. But like I said, the Turnigy is a fine choice. I don't think you'll be disappointed either way, especially for the price compared to the E-Flite 60A Pro series ESC.
Ill try a SS on a smaller plane, but i really dont want to risk it on my T-6
So to hijack my own thread but; im jelous of you for having an E-flite Sea fury
Thanks for the help dave!
--PvT
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:07 AM
  #141  
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I'd skip the SS ones entirely to start with and buy from LightFlightRC if you want to try them out. Unlike some big hobby shop in China, Dave and Sara run the shop by themselves as a small family business, have excellent communication, stand behind their stuff, and spent countless emails helping answer my questions when I was new to the hobby. They made a big impression on me, to say the least.

Don't be too jealous of the Sea Fury ... it keeps getting grounded because of tiny little retract problems here and here. I do love it, though. But I don't love it half as much as the E-Flite P-47 I lost not too long ago. If you want a Sea Fury, I know a hobby shop in Tennessee that still has one on the shelf and is willing to ship stuff. The owner is a little weird ... mumbles a lot and started talking about how he'd just put a plane on eBay when he said he had an E-Flite P-47 that was broken but still wanted full retail for it ... but it might be worth a shot if you want one. Ought to be $110 + shipping.

And always happy to help. Just remember, don't take any advice you get as the gospel truth, be it mine or anyone else's. Listen and absorb, and then make those final decisions your own ... we all have opinions, but it doesn't mean yours aren't the right ones for your plane. I really look forward to seeing your maiden up and accomplished.
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:44 PM
  #142  
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Hi Guys,

Just to help clear up some of the confusion regarding the ESC choice on teh AT-6. At the time the kit came out all we had was a 60 Amp. The 40 was not available. So that is why the 60 is listed. Also we never use a separate BEC if we are using our 40 or 60 Amp ESC. The BEC's in either of our Pro ESC's ar very robust and have never let us down. We use them in all of our 60 sized warbirds and threw the rx abtteries away.

Just a note for you guys. I never broke a wing on my AT-6 until this year at the SEFF demo's when Steve Rojecki had a mishap on landing and cartwheeled it. A new wing and she is back like new. Why he cartwheeled it?, I think he didn't like me that day.

Anyways, the next warbird we do will be far faster and you won't be able to break the wing; I promise you that! The gear mounts are a bit stronger, but if you screw up the landings they will break. After 35 years I have found it is much better to occassionally break out a gear mount than tear the wing off the fuselage.

Gone are the removable plug in stabs. The stabs still plug in but are glued in place. Pretty sleek cowl mounting (no pesky screws holding it on that show on the outside of the model).

A full depth cockpit for you to detail.

And more that I can't say.

John
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:22 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by John Redman View Post
Hi Guys,

Just to help clear up some of the confusion regarding the ESC choice on teh AT-6. At the time the kit came out all we had was a 60 Amp. The 40 was not available. So that is why the 60 is listed. Also we never use a separate BEC if we are using our 40 or 60 Amp ESC. The BEC's in either of our Pro ESC's ar very robust and have never let us down. We use them in all of our 60 sized warbirds and threw the rx abtteries away.

Just a note for you guys. I never broke a wing on my AT-6 until this year at the SEFF demo's when Steve Rojecki had a mishap on landing and cartwheeled it. A new wing and she is back like new. Why he cartwheeled it?, I think he didn't like me that day.

Anyways, the next warbird we do will be far faster and you won't be able to break the wing; I promise you that! The gear mounts are a bit stronger, but if you screw up the landings they will break. After 35 years I have found it is much better to occassionally break out a gear mount than tear the wing off the fuselage.

Gone are the removable plug in stabs. The stabs still plug in but are glued in place. Pretty sleek cowl mounting (no pesky screws holding it on that show on the outside of the model).

A full depth cockpit for you to detail.

And more that I can't say.

John
Woo! john looked at my thread.
the E-flite 60A is definatly first choice, But im trying to get it done before my clubs funfly, so i am looking for cheaper ways to get it done quickly.

John, will you still be making the At-6 when your new warbird comes out? I think it is a beautiful bird and should not be discontinued In my honest opinion.

--PvT
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:22 PM
  #144  
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If you have the dough, the E-Flite 60A Pro is a great choice. Honestly, I'm sure the Turnigy's built-in switching BEC's could handle the servo load just fine, but with that many servos, I'm not as comfortable using it as I would be about using the E-Flite and knowing I have a company like Horizon backing the product. That's why if I used a Turnigy, I would probably still use a separate BEC. With the E-Flite, I'd just plug it up and go.

John, thanks a bunch for contributing to this thread. That SEFF landing was pretty tough to watch. Though not quite as rough as the B-25 losing a prop. I bought my AT-6 second-hand. It had five flights from the previous owner and was perfect aside from a couple of little scuffs. The previous owner said he flew it pretty scale and didn't get real wild with it, and he didn't do any reinforcements to the wing. When I started inspecting it before I hooked stuff back up after it arrived, I noticed that the balsa sheeting in the wing had cracks on both the left and right sides, going horizontally along the wing between the outermost spar and the first spar. I went over the areas with Gorilla Glue and then went over as many sheeting-to-spar joints as I could with some more glue just to make sure things together later.

I was curious on your thoughts about gluing the outer wing panels to the center wing section? It seems like that would help distribute wing loading a bit more evenly, and while I don't expect the wing to fail, I figure keeping the structure as stress-free as possible can't hurt. Do you see any downsides to gluing the outer wing panels to the center? I could still remove the wing easily with the two nylon bolts for travel, and I only have two connections to unhook since all my non-retract servos run into a single big connector that takes all the hassle out of connecting wires back up.

I cannot WAIT to see what the next Platinum series bird is ... while I love (and own) all of E-Flite's EPS birds and very much hope we'll see another someday, the balsa/composite planes are what keep me coming back as I progress in my interests. I'm dying to get my hands on a Beaver one of these days ... watching it fly with flaps at SEFF made me ache a little inside. Heh. (Not to mention watching someone at the local club bounce it down all over the place when he's landing his ... all I want to do is run over and say, here! Let me show you how this thing is supposed to fly!).

Got the E-Flite J-3, Taylorcraft, and AT-6, so here's hoping to add one more to the collection before too long. Especially since it's a warbird!
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:56 PM
  #145  
John Redman
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You can glue the wing panels together and it woudl probably help distribute the stress loads a bit better.

The AT-6 isn't going anywhere any time soon that I know of.

When the next warbird comes out, I do believe the AT-6 might be left in teh dust though. You are going to love the next one, and she will be fast if you want her to be!!

John
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:02 PM
  #146  
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Alright, John, I know you can't give super-crazy details ... but when you say, "fast," the natural question is "how fast and on what?" Can you tell us what lipo/motor/prop size you're thinking of for ultimate speed in this new baby? We looking at a 4S setup, or a maybe stepping up to a 5S? I've got a 4S 1000W+ setup I'm planning to juice through a 25-sized Focke Wulf soon ... would love know what this new mystery warbird is capable of sucking down in power and spitting out in airspeed. My FW could use a good target ... or maybe ally?

Of course, I'm more than content to wait and find out first hand if that's the only choice, too.

I'm pretty stoked about the detailed cockpit option, might I add.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:50 PM
  #147  
pvtzemerak
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Originally Posted by John Redman View Post
You can glue the wing panels together and it woudl probably help distribute the stress loads a bit better.

The AT-6 isn't going anywhere any time soon that I know of.

When the next warbird comes out, I do believe the AT-6 might be left in teh dust though. You are going to love the next one, and she will be fast if you want her to be!!

John
Aww, ill miss the At-6 if it goes
Will you still be producing spare parts?

Back to the whole wing talk.
I was thinking of glueing shishkabob sticks around all the joints inside the middle wing panel.
just a thought...
--PvT
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:02 PM
  #148  
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I think you might have misread - John was saying the AT-6 isn't going anywhere for a while, but the new plane will "leave the AT-6 in the dust," as in, it will be even better and faster.
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:20 AM
  #149  
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PearlAddict got it. The new warbird will blow the doors off the old T-6, but I guess that is what most of hte warbirds did in the old days.

John
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:42 AM
  #150  
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Aw, c'mon John, don't tease! LOL

Do you guys have any plans to release a Zero in the near future?
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