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E-flite At6 texan Build log(with pictures!!)

Old 04-08-2009, 10:29 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by pvtzemerak View Post
Sorry for the boring thread alex, right now im out of a job because of school, i plan on getting her done twords the summer. Once when i get my dads camera fixed i promise i will post pics of servos and how im doing so far. The battery + ESC is over 200$ , so it will be twords the beggining of summer, probably during july.
Im really sorry, i will post pics though!
--PvT
What battery and ESC are you looking at for this plane? You should be able to get good quality batteries and an ESC for under $100 easily!

I just bought an AT-6 from SlapShot here on the forums. It is absolutely gorgeous and I can't wait to get it up in the air. He already had all the assembly done and retracts and all servos installed, so all I have to do is put in a motor, ESC, Rx, and battery, and I'm good to go! I will probably do a little reinforcement to the wing section after hearing so many problems with wing failures over on RCG, but this plane has already seen five flights, so I might just go ahead and take her for a nice, gentle flight first since I'm itching to see her in the air!
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:33 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
What battery and ESC are you looking at for this plane? You should be able to get good quality batteries and an ESC for under $100 easily!

I just bought an AT-6 from SlapShot here on the forums. It is absolutely gorgeous and I can't wait to get it up in the air. He already had all the assembly done and retracts and all servos installed, so all I have to do is put in a motor, ESC, Rx, and battery, and I'm good to go! I will probably do a little reinforcement to the wing section after hearing so many problems with wing failures over on RCG, but this plane has already seen five flights, so I might just go ahead and take her for a nice, gentle flight first since I'm itching to see her in the air!
Cool dave.
I plan on using an E-flite 60 Amp Pro ESC, wich is $85.00
And a Thunder Power 3s 4200 Mah, wich is $124.00

Its a really expensive build
--PvT
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:59 AM
  #78  
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I understand how it goes. If you want name-brand stuff, you gotta pay the name-brand price!

But Turnigy makes great ESC's with switching BEC's built in (60A for $44), and you can get 2 x Zippy 3S 2200mah 20C batteries to run in parallel for $40, or a single 4000mah pack for $32.

Both the ESC's and the lipos have stellar reviews and massive amounts of feedbacks throughout the R/C community. I know the allure of having the name brand, but saving money these days (and getting up in the air sooner!) definitely has some upsides to consider.

My motor, ESC, and batteries combined all cost me less than $100. Using the same ESC and batteries on my Hyperion P-51D "Suzy" 25e, and she flies like a dream.

- Dave
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:07 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
I understand how it goes. If you want name-brand stuff, you gotta pay the name-brand price!

But Turnigy makes great ESC's with switching BEC's built in (60A for $44), and you can get 2 x Zippy 3S 2200mah 20C batteries to run in parallel for $40, or a single 4000mah pack for $32.

Both the ESC's and the lipos have stellar reviews and massive amounts of feedbacks throughout the R/C community. I know the allure of having the name brand, but saving money these days (and getting up in the air sooner!) definitely has some upsides to consider.

My motor, ESC, and batteries combined all cost me less than $100. Using the same ESC and batteries on my Hyperion P-51D "Suzy" 25e, and she flies like a dream.

- Dave

Thanks dave!
Im looking through Hobbycity at the moment!
--PvT
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:48 PM
  #80  
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Great advise Dave! I have used Jeff at HeadsUpRC motor's/esc's/batteries on all my planes. The price is right...the shipping is $2 bucks, and it only takes 4 days to get the goodies! Website: http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/StoreFront

Of course HobbyCity will have a far more extensive stock to look at and it usually takes longer to get the items...but again a great place with great prices!
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:27 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by AlexinFlight View Post
Great advise Dave! I have used Jeff at HeadsUpRC motor's/esc's/batteries on all my planes. The price is right...the shipping is $2 bucks, and it only takes 4 days to get the goodies! Website: http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/StoreFront

Of course HobbyCity will have a far more extensive stock to look at and it usually takes longer to get the items...but again a great place with great prices!
Alex, the BEC there is only capable of handling 2A. I am looking for one that can handle 3A+ . The turnigy plush looks pretty good, i will probably be going with one of those.
--PvT
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:37 PM
  #82  
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Post some pics when you can.

Last edited by AlexinFlight; 04-27-2009 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:53 PM
  #83  
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If you're going to use a Turnigy ESC, make sure you get one with a SWITCHING BEC built into it, not a Linear BEC (some of the Turnigy's have linear, some have switching, so make sure to read and check). That, or just buy a separate external BEC (or take Alex up on his kindness. ). I am flying my Hyperion P-51D 25e plane with a Suppo (SuperSimple) 60A ESC with 3A external BEC. I like the Suppo ESC's perfectly fine and use tons of the 20A to 60A ones in various planes, but the Turnigy's are a better ESC if you care to spend the little bit of extra money.

And I wholeheartedly agree, Jeff @ HeadsUpRC is a wonderful source not only to buy from, but to get some help and information with your plane. I just looked, and he carries larger motors than the last time I went through his site, so you have a lot of good options there, too. For $28 shipped, this is hard to beat: http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...lectric/Detail

Now, that motor gets it's best performance when using a 4S battery, but it should do just fine on 3S, too.

If I was ordering from HobbyCity, though, I'd probably get one of the following combinations (actually, I already have one of these combinations, but if I was ordering AGAIN, these would be my picks ):

Motors:
TR 35-48-C 800kv: $22.61 (what I'll be using, planning to use both 3S and 4S batteries, probably with a 13x6.5E prop)
TR 35-48-B 900kv: $22.61 (what I'll be using on my E-Flite Cub. Slightly higher Kv, so you'll want to turn a smaller prop [or use a big one and just suck up a lot more amps so long as you stay in the motor's limits], still ought to be good on 3S or 4S)
TR 35-48-A 1100kv: $22.61 (If I only had 3S batteries and knew I'd never use 4S, I might go with this one, but I'd still probably lean more towards the 900kv or 800kv motors)

The motor I'd get if I hadn't already bought a motor:
TGY AerodriveXp SK Series 35-48 900Kv / 770W: $28.40 (or maybe the 1100kv SK version [$28.40] of this, but same goes for that as above 1100kv ... probably go with the lower kV version and swing a bigger prop)

It's the improved and more powerful version of the 900kv motor listed above. For just a few bucks more, it's what I'd go with so long as there was room in the cowl (I haven't checked yet ... it's about 5mm longer according to some HC user notes). 3S should be plenty powerful, 4S and you'll want to make sure you've really got your wings on tight.

So many choices ... it's hard to pick just one. I went with the 800kv because it was the closest in kV-spec to the Power 32 motor from E-Flite, it had good reviews, and the SK series wasn't available yet back when I bought it.

ESC:
Turnigy Plush 60A with Switching BEC: $43.89

SuperSimple 60A ESC [$16.79] with Turnigy 3A UBEC [$7.83]

Lipos:
2 x ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 30C [$23.01 ea.]
2 x ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 25C [$19.95 ea.]
2 x ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 20C [$17.99 ea.]
2 x ZIPPY Flightmax 3000mAh 3S1P 20C [$24.25 ea.]
1 x ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 3S1P 20C [$41.10]
1 x ZIPPY Flightmax 4000mAh 3S1P 20C [$31.23]

That's my 3S list. I'd follow the same path if using 4S, though I'd probably stick to 25C and up unless I was using a 5000mah pack. Also might look at Rhino and Zippy-H batteries, but they are a little more expensive (my Zippy-H 3S 3300mah 20C packs that I use 2 of to fly my Hyperion P-51D 25e cost over $40 each ... wish they had sold FlightMax back then!). I have no idea which of those packs will fit, so do bear that in mind. List is just for cost illustrative purposes on what you could use to get up in the air for a good price. Check any dimensions before buying, as always!

---------------------

Anywho, that's my short list of what I'd stick in the plane. Lots of options to get you to where you want to be (up in the air! ) for under $100 on the total bill.

- Dave
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Old 04-10-2009, 01:06 AM
  #84  
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Thanks dave,
Those flightmax batterys sure are cheap, i might have to buy 2
Thanks again.
--PvT
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Old 06-07-2009, 04:37 AM
  #85  
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Hey guys!
Time for a project report!
I have been working on my texan, by glueing in the canopy, ect.
I have had a "Set-back". When i was glueing the doors to the retracts, i accidentaly glued the retracts. And i have to fly this bird with retracts
Dave, i think ill use the recomended ESC. BUT, i will take your advice and go with flightmax batteries. My friend uses them and he says they are awesome.
Thanks for the help guys, get ready for a maiden report in a month or two.
--PvT
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:33 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by pvtzemerak View Post
Sorry for the bump guys, just going to give an update.
Well, i was glueing the covers for the retract wheels when all of a sudden the CA dropped down to the retract (only one)
So, now i am going to fly without retracts ONLY for the maiden and first few flights. after about 5-10 flights, Ill buy the retracts and put them in.
Thanks for reading!
--PvT

Try this - remove (I'm sure you already have) the "glued" retract and get a small deep dish and some ACETONE (Wal-Mart paint department - get your Dad to get it as I am sure they won't sell to a minor) fill the dish with the ACETONE and immerse the retract in it. Leave it in the ACETONE for about 30 minutes. The acetone is VERY FLAMABLE and the fumes travel well so keep it OUTSIDE while doing this. After the retract has been in the stuff for 30 minutes or more remove it and wipe it dry with a paper towel. Operate the retract to make sure all the CA has been melted away. When the retract works smoothly and you are sure all CA is gone from the retract then lightly oil the bearing surfaces with some lubrication - lithium grease if you have any or if not plain old motor oil - VERY LIGHTLY. The acetone will cost about $6.00 but it removes CA like crazy!! You can get your retracts back for $6.00.

Hope this helps!!


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Old 06-07-2009, 03:10 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by hillbille View Post
Try this - remove (I'm sure you already have) the "glued" retract and get a small deep dish and some ACETONE (Wal-Mart paint department - get your Dad to get it as I am sure they won't sell to a minor) fill the dish with the ACETONE and immerse the retract in it. Leave it in the ACETONE for about 30 minutes. The acetone is VERY FLAMABLE and the fumes travel well so keep it OUTSIDE while doing this. After the retract has been in the stuff for 30 minutes or more remove it and wipe it dry with a paper towel. Operate the retract to make sure all the CA has been melted away. When the retract works smoothly and you are sure all CA is gone from the retract then lightly oil the bearing surfaces with some lubrication - lithium grease if you have any or if not plain old motor oil - VERY LIGHTLY. The acetone will cost about $6.00 but it removes CA like crazy!! You can get your retracts back for $6.00.

Hope this helps!!


Hillbille
Thanks hillbillie!
I dont remember what i post
I'll ask him if we can run by wal-mart today after church.
--PvT
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:06 AM
  #88  
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If you can't get the ACETONE then see if you can get some finger nail polish remover - it has the same thing in it. Use it directly on the area where the CA dripped. A "Q" tip will allow you to get it in the right place. Work the retract as you apply the stuff and it will come loose and should function.

Hillbille
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:35 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by hillbille View Post
If you can't get the ACETONE then see if you can get some finger nail polish remover - it has the same thing in it. Use it directly on the area where the CA dripped. A "Q" tip will allow you to get it in the right place. Work the retract as you apply the stuff and it will come loose and should function.

Hillbille


Good tips from Hillbillie. Just make sure if you buy the finger nail polish, it is the type with acetone. Quite a few of them now do not have acetone but are clearly marked "Acetone Free".
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:34 PM
  #90  
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Thanks guys.
I told my dad about the problem and he said "Nailpolish should work." I think i should start listening to him from now on
--PvT
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:54 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by hillbille View Post
If you can't get the ACETONE then see if you can get some finger nail polish remover - it has the same thing in it. Use it directly on the area where the CA dripped. A "Q" tip will allow you to get it in the right place. Work the retract as you apply the stuff and it will come loose and should function.

Hillbille
Im acually having some trouble, i dont have the right hex screw to open it up. So i put it in the Fingernail polish remover for ~2 hours. It still dosn't work. Any ideas?
--PvT
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Old 06-10-2009, 05:10 AM
  #92  
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It will be stubborn - CA is that way for me too as it always glues my fingers to wood faster and better than wood to wood!! LOL!! Get a pair of pliers and use a paper towel or washcloth as a go-between and grab hold of the mounting lip of the retract - press in or pull out the actuator arm so as to dislodge the "lock" feature and then grab the landing gear and push - pull back and forth working the action of the retract until it frees up. That should do it eventually. Don't be gentle either - after all what have you got to lose as it is "frozen" now and the worst that can happen is that you will put it back the way it was. Check to make certain that the "lock" isn't glued - if it is the problem then not being able to disassemble the retract WILL hamper your efforts - but just let it soak some more and get after it with a crochet needle if you can get one or a nut pick will work also as both of these are slim but rigid and will allow you to get down into the mechanism to "pick" at it in a pull - push manor to loosen things up.

Hillbille
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Old 06-10-2009, 09:29 PM
  #93  
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Hillbillie-
I just got the whole retract apart this morning, and i left it in while i was at school. Im going to try to scrape all the CA off and then put it back together.
Thanks for the help!
--PvT
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Old 06-12-2009, 04:39 PM
  #94  
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So how did everything work out?
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Old 06-12-2009, 04:49 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
So how did everything work out?

So where are the pictures of your and my AT-6 Dave?
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Old 06-12-2009, 06:42 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by PerlAddict View Post
So how did everything work out?
PERFECT!
Thanks guys! the retract works perfect now. I even added Graphite Lubricant ( the kind you use on bike chains ) to help it move, and it works like new now

All i need to do now is find my screwdriver and the screws :/ Me and my messy table

Sorry for not having pics, my dad is on vacation and i cant find his camera

--PvT
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Old 06-15-2009, 03:36 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
So where are the pictures of your and my AT-6 Dave?
Heh ... you KNOW you're getting too lazy when you buy a plane that is fully built with all the retracts pre-installed, and you still don't set aside a couple of hours to do the smallest amount of reinforcing to the center section that some folks recommend and then just hook up your Rx and fly.

But seeing as how we've got a baby that should be coming literally any day now, I feel I have an excuse to enjoy these last few days of slacking. =D

I'm been much too busy breaking other planes to build new ones, anyway. You should know that by now. Your CG measurements almost killed my Talon, too! Something is way different in my setup, apparently. But that's a story for another thread. Heh.
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:08 AM
  #98  
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Back to work. I've been away from this plane and flying in general for too long. I have fitted a Power 32 equivalent from Headsuprc.com. Next will be the electronics. If life doesn't get in the way again it should be completed soon.......I hope.






Last edited by newjak; 06-21-2009 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 06-18-2009, 03:06 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by newjak View Post
Back to work. I've been away from this plane and flying in general for too long. I have fitted a Power 32 equivalent from Headsuprc.com. Next will be the electronics. If life doesn't get in the way again it should be completed soon.......I hope.




Hey Newjak,
The Texan is DEFINATLY my next project to finish. I only need a Battery, ESC, Rx, and a few servo extensions, then im ready to take her out on a maiden.
Lately i just bought a Superfly from my friend Bob ( Wattflyer name Hughs500Bob) that i just took out, and im having fun with that guy!


Goodluck! look for the maiden report in a month or two!
--PvT
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:11 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by pvtzemerak View Post

Goodluck! look for the maiden report in a month or two!
--PvT
At the rate I'm going I might have it done by this time NEXT year
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