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Eflite S.E.5a put-together-thread

Old 02-03-2008, 10:30 PM
  #126  
gfdengine204
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Jim,

Sure does look nice! Very impressive!
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Old 02-04-2008, 01:04 AM
  #127  
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Thanks Kev, Now that I've up graded the wheels, I think shes done. Sorry Simibill, I don't have a part number. If I'm not mistaken they are discontinued? But if you look around "IE"older Hobbie shops, swap meets, or E-bay. but the last set on E-bay sold for something like twenty dollars, way to expensive IMHO! We just happen to have a hobby shop here in town that gets scatch N dent items from Tower. They put together tubs full of mufflers,wheels,and misc parts. I was lucky and found a pair of them. Jim
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Old 02-04-2008, 01:22 AM
  #128  
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Default Wheels

Yeah, Jim I had mine for a long time. The flea market I attend in March should have some. I'll be looking out for more! Martin
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:47 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by simibill View Post
As an aside; How do you get the o-ring prop saver on? This has become the hardest part of assembling my S.E.5a
You can unscrew the prop hub and assemble the prop and o ring on the bench. Then slide the hub back on and tighten the screws. Thats what I do so I dont wreck the cowl.
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:59 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by aviatordave View Post
You can unscrew the prop hub and assemble the prop and o ring on the bench. Then slide the hub back on and tighten the screws. Thats what I do so I dont wreck the cowl.
What a pansy....be a man! Risk damage! Live dangerously!

I often do the same thing......:p
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:02 AM
  #131  
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I actually broke one of the wheels yesterday. A slow stick dive bombed me (flown by a guy who prob shouldnt even have a drivers license). I had to duck and move to avoid the prop of the SS, I was getting ready to land and nosed the SE5 in, cracked the wheel. I'll need to replace these with real wheels now, and on the Jenny as well.

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Old 02-05-2008, 12:48 AM
  #132  
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Default The answer

Here's the answer to all of your WWI wheel needs. Check this out Guys. Martin
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t=spoke+wheels
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...vintage+wheels
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:43 PM
  #133  
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I have it all together,except the rigging.Problem is motor cuts out and e-flite 10 amp esc shuts motor down.tried 2 different receivers and diff.types of batteries.Rudder and elevator works fine.Berg 4 ch.recievers.Anyone know whats wrong?Thanks.
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:58 PM
  #134  
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What battery are you using?

What motor are you using?
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Old 02-14-2008, 12:02 AM
  #135  
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E-Flite Park 250,Li Polys, 450s,800s etc.
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Old 02-14-2008, 01:33 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by wecky View Post
I have it all together,except the rigging.Problem is motor cuts out and e-flite 10 amp esc shuts motor down.tried 2 different receivers and diff.types of batteries.Rudder and elevator works fine.Berg 4 ch.recievers.Anyone know whats wrong?Thanks.
Make sure you have the ESC programed correctly. I had the same problem with one of my ESC till I found out the programing instructions that came with it were for an earlyer model. I got the updated program instruction off the net and changed the battery type to the correct setting. No more problems.
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:25 PM
  #137  
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Okay guys, what's the secret to making one of these things fly half way decent? Mine was very hard to turn and my opinion does not have enough dihedral. Took the entire rudder throw I could get and still did not want to turn. Any ideas?
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Old 02-18-2008, 03:53 AM
  #138  
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Yep add ailerons Not sure, almost every E flight bipe I've flown would turn pretty easy? Are you sure your push rod isn't bending or your rudder is not hard to move? I know this sound obvious but just checking. Jim
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Old 02-18-2008, 03:50 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by mustangpilot View Post
Yep add ailerons Not sure, almost every E flight bipe I've flown would turn pretty easy? Are you sure your push rod isn't bending or your rudder is not hard to move? I know this sound obvious but just checking. Jim
Thanks Jim for the suggestions but those are working like they should. I now wonder if I have inadvertently pulled out some of the built in dihedral with my tensioner wires. Will try to pull in more dihedral and see what happens.
Thanks again,
Larry
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:21 PM
  #140  
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Default S.E.5a E-Flite

Was at the LHS today and saw one in stock - just had to get it - could not get the "Park 250" outrunner motor since it was "Out of Stock" but it'll be in soon...

Anyway, I have a question from you guys who are experienced... will this airplane fly outside or is it strictly for indoors?... in order to fly outside, should I consider a larger motor?... plan to run LiPos 7.4 - 850mah that I have with my CX2 helicopter.

Thanks...
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Old 02-19-2008, 03:43 AM
  #141  
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Hello jecchile, she will fly outside, just make sure the wind in under six mph. The plane in very light and will be blown around some what. I have flown mine outside a few times. She does OK in light winds. Mainly an indoor plane. Just use common since. Jim
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Old 02-19-2008, 06:04 AM
  #142  
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Thanks "Mustangpilot" - I will give it a shot outside for its maiden flight since the gym where we fly indoors may be just a bit tight... once I know how it behaves, I will have no problems going indoors.

One thing is for sure - the S.E.5a is one good looking airplane.
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Old 02-22-2008, 11:02 PM
  #143  
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Default HELP NEEDED... S.E.5a

HI!... I need some help

I have the Park 250 Outrunner motor and the 10 Amp ESC that is listed in the kit... anyway, I have all the parts to start building but I can not figure out how to "Silicone" the motor to the "motor tube"... also, is "RTV Silicone" the same as any other silicone used in household matters?... I don't want to screw-up in the beginning so please, those who have already built the model, give me your opinions... THANKS.
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Old 02-22-2008, 11:53 PM
  #144  
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I didnt use that motor but didnt have any luck with the silicone. I went to walmart and used 'SUMO' glue.

You can put the motor in at any stage of assembly, its pretty easy. The instruction book just does it first.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...2&postcount=46
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:04 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by aviatordave View Post
I didnt use that motor but didnt have any luck with the silicone. I went to walmart and used 'SUMO' glue.

You can put the motor in at any stage of assembly, its pretty easy. The instruction book just does it first.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...2&postcount=46
THANKS... I may have to go to WalMart also and get some SUMO glue... I hope mine comes out as nice as yours... you did a great job.

BTW, which is better, the S.E.5a or the Jenny?

Good flying...
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Old 02-23-2008, 02:15 AM
  #146  
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Worked out some initial bugs and had a great flight this evening. I used one of the cheap motors from hobby city and it was plenty of power for $11 whereas the cost of the Eflite 250 motor is $45. (1/4 the cost). Another plus is that it has a real motor mount instead of that glued in tube the 250 uses.

When assembling my Jenny I tried using the silicone glue on the Eflite 250 motor and finally after three tries found a glue that would hold the motor in so I didn't want to go through that again with the SE-5a. Another thing I didn't like on the Eflite 250 motor was the prop saver. It was so hard to mount a prop and get the bands secured. Don't have that problem with the Hobby City motor. Very easy to mount and secure. Motor I used on the SE-5a
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6311
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Old 02-23-2008, 03:30 AM
  #147  
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Default Great prices

You gotta love Hobby City's prices! Great merchandise too! BTW, they will have a warehouse in the USA soon! See their site for more info. Martin
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Old 02-23-2008, 03:30 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by larry63 View Post
Worked out some initial bugs and had a great flight this evening. I used one of the cheap motors from hobby city and it was plenty of power for $11 whereas the cost of the Eflite 250 motor is $45. (1/4 the cost). Another plus is that it has a real motor mount instead of that glued in tube the 250 uses.

When assembling my Jenny I tried using the silicone glue on the Eflite 250 motor and finally after three tries found a glue that would hold the motor in so I didn't want to go through that again with the SE-5a. Another thing I didn't like on the Eflite 250 motor was the prop saver. It was so hard to mount a prop and get the bands secured. Don't have that problem with the Hobby City motor. Very easy to mount and secure. Motor I used on the SE-5a
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6311
LARRY, WHICH GLUE DID YOU END UP USING?... "AVIATORDAVE" USED SOMETHING CALLED "SUMO GLUE" FROM LOCTITE... I AM NOT CRAZY ABOUT THE MOTOR MOUNTING THEY RECOMMEND IN THE INSTRUCTIONS - THERE HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY.
THANKS...
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Old 02-23-2008, 03:35 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by jecchile View Post
LARRY, WHICH GLUE DID YOU END UP USING?... "AVIATORDAVE" USED SOMETHING CALLED "SUMO GLUE" FROM LOCTITE... I AM NOT CRAZY ABOUT THE MOTOR MOUNTING THEY RECOMMEND IN THE INSTRUCTIONS - THERE HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY.
THANKS...
I don't remember now since I tried so many different ones. Sumo expands so you have to be careful that it doesn't get on the rotating shaft and mess things up. I tried epoxy, silicone and CA. I think CA is the one that finally stuck.
Anyway, get the Hobby City motor for $11 and you don't have to worry with the glue problem. It comes with a very nice motor mount and I bought a separate prop saver that is easy to work with for a few dollars more
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Old 02-23-2008, 03:58 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by jecchile View Post
BTW, which is better, the S.E.5a or the Jenny?

Good flying...
I like the SE5a more. It is easier to turn and yanks and banks with authority. The Jenny kind of mushes into turns.
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