Hobby King Slow Stick
#1

Not really my cup of tea but I acquired a damaged Slow Stick.
Actually the foam bits were in quite reasonable condition but the front wing mount was shattered. the motor mount bent back, the ESC, rx and one servo were dead through moisture ingress. Finally the prop was broken and the LiPo was almost completely flat.
Took the shrink wrap of both the rx and ESC and blew them dry with a hair dryer. Took the servo to pieces and did the same with that. They all worked!
The front wing mount was repaired with CF tow and epoxy.

The bent motor mount

was carefully straightened.

With a new 2200mAh 2s mounted right up against the motor and the ESC fixed underneath put the CofG at the recommended 100mm back from the LE.
The 'park fly' Orange 4ch micro rx is also mounted underneath the fuselage to ensure its aerial is not blanketed by the CF fuselage stick.

A control test.
Just waiting for a new 10x4.7 SF prop and 3 mm prop adapter for its maiden.
Actually the foam bits were in quite reasonable condition but the front wing mount was shattered. the motor mount bent back, the ESC, rx and one servo were dead through moisture ingress. Finally the prop was broken and the LiPo was almost completely flat.

Took the shrink wrap of both the rx and ESC and blew them dry with a hair dryer. Took the servo to pieces and did the same with that. They all worked!
The front wing mount was repaired with CF tow and epoxy.
The bent motor mount
was carefully straightened.
With a new 2200mAh 2s mounted right up against the motor and the ESC fixed underneath put the CofG at the recommended 100mm back from the LE.
The 'park fly' Orange 4ch micro rx is also mounted underneath the fuselage to ensure its aerial is not blanketed by the CF fuselage stick.
A control test.
Just waiting for a new 10x4.7 SF prop and 3 mm prop adapter for its maiden.
Last edited by quorneng; 08-19-2015 at 03:10 PM.
#3

Here's a link where the HK Slow Stick was discussed by a few GWS SS owners......:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=70086&page=2
The video here (by Hobby King) gives a few details that may be useful.......:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...4#vid-fef3b6de
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=70086&page=2
The video here (by Hobby King) gives a few details that may be useful.......:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...4#vid-fef3b6de
#4

Thanks for the info.
It may seem a bit odd that I have put the 2200mAh so far forward when the spec suggests a 1300mAh. The reason is that that Hobby King glue a chunk of lead, 0.83oz (24g) inside the front of the stick!

Having knocked it out means that the much bigger heavier battery has to go further forward to compensate but overall it has only added just over 1 oz to the total weight.
My intention is to fly the Slow Stick in its original condition for a bit to get to know how if performs.
I am impressed with the aerodynamic quality of the wings and tail but almost all the rest of its features do not seem to have been designed to the same standard!
1. Whilst the aileron servos are neatly 'buried' in the wing why does each aileron require a 9g servo to move its surface that is under half the area of the elevator that has only a single 9g servo?
2. The moulded hinges of the elevator and rudder require a considerable force to achieve even a 30 degree deflection likely rather more than the aerodynamic load.
With proper free moving hinges much smaller servos could be used.
3. If the ailerons servos can be buried in the wing why not the elevator and rudder and get rid of long heavy push rods and their drag creating guides at the same time.
4. Presumably for shipping reasons the CF fuselage stick is in two pieces with a 'joiner'. Although the join is likely to be the weakest part it does allow the possibility of using a rear section of much lighter construction.
We shall see!
It may seem a bit odd that I have put the 2200mAh so far forward when the spec suggests a 1300mAh. The reason is that that Hobby King glue a chunk of lead, 0.83oz (24g) inside the front of the stick!
Having knocked it out means that the much bigger heavier battery has to go further forward to compensate but overall it has only added just over 1 oz to the total weight.
My intention is to fly the Slow Stick in its original condition for a bit to get to know how if performs.
I am impressed with the aerodynamic quality of the wings and tail but almost all the rest of its features do not seem to have been designed to the same standard!
1. Whilst the aileron servos are neatly 'buried' in the wing why does each aileron require a 9g servo to move its surface that is under half the area of the elevator that has only a single 9g servo?
2. The moulded hinges of the elevator and rudder require a considerable force to achieve even a 30 degree deflection likely rather more than the aerodynamic load.
With proper free moving hinges much smaller servos could be used.
3. If the ailerons servos can be buried in the wing why not the elevator and rudder and get rid of long heavy push rods and their drag creating guides at the same time.
4. Presumably for shipping reasons the CF fuselage stick is in two pieces with a 'joiner'. Although the join is likely to be the weakest part it does allow the possibility of using a rear section of much lighter construction.
We shall see!
#5

I pretty much learned to fly on the original GWS slow stick with the boxed aluminum fuse, brushed motor, nimh battery and an antenna training in the breeze!
We sure have come a long way!
Good luck with yours.
We sure have come a long way!
Good luck with yours.
#6

The Slow Stick 'maiden' this morning.
It was slightly nose heavy - no bad thing for a maiden!
For the next flights I moved the battery back by one inch (25mm) which allowed me to be a bit more adventurous.
It handled the longish grass quite well.
Although the 10x4.7 prop gives plenty of low speed thrust it doesn't half create a lot of windmill drag power off!
With the 2200mAh fully charged is draws 15A showing 109W which gives it a modest 72W/lb but it flies on a lot less than that!
It was slightly nose heavy - no bad thing for a maiden!
For the next flights I moved the battery back by one inch (25mm) which allowed me to be a bit more adventurous.
It handled the longish grass quite well.
Although the 10x4.7 prop gives plenty of low speed thrust it doesn't half create a lot of windmill drag power off!
With the 2200mAh fully charged is draws 15A showing 109W which gives it a modest 72W/lb but it flies on a lot less than that!

#8

My flights with my Slow Stick so far have confirmed is has plenty of low speed thrust but with that big fine pitch props it can easily exceed the full power pitch speed in just a modest dive.
I am sure this sort of performance is in keeping with the Slow Stick philosophy but the aerodynamics of its flying surfaces are actually quite reasonable suggesting it could fly significantly faster without any increase in power.
As I have a compact 2200mAh 2s LiPo available (its actually 2s2p) the first modification was to make best use of the extra battery weight by moving the wing forward by 16mm. At the same time this will slightly increase the moment arm of its rather 'close coupled' tail feathers.

At the same time the Elevator and rudder servos were moved forward to the absolute limit of the lengths of their push rods.

In preparation for using smaller servo the 'stiff' moulded foam rudder hinge has been replaced with 'Barbi' hinges.


The same will be done with the elevator.
The ailerons will use just a tape top hinge.
I am sure this sort of performance is in keeping with the Slow Stick philosophy but the aerodynamics of its flying surfaces are actually quite reasonable suggesting it could fly significantly faster without any increase in power.
As I have a compact 2200mAh 2s LiPo available (its actually 2s2p) the first modification was to make best use of the extra battery weight by moving the wing forward by 16mm. At the same time this will slightly increase the moment arm of its rather 'close coupled' tail feathers.
At the same time the Elevator and rudder servos were moved forward to the absolute limit of the lengths of their push rods.
In preparation for using smaller servo the 'stiff' moulded foam rudder hinge has been replaced with 'Barbi' hinges.
The same will be done with the elevator.
The ailerons will use just a tape top hinge.
#9

A little example of the stiff moulded hinges, on the ailerons in this case.
The aileron held at a modest 30 degrees.

But it requires a substantial 150g lump of lead to deflect it. Of course any aerodynamic load would have to be added.

Although this is still within the power of the 9g servo (about 1100 g) it still puts an unnecessary load on the gears and linkage. It also increases the current draw.
However with a thin tape top hinge the aileron deflects to about 75 degrees under its own weight!

A video testing the now hinged elevator and rudder using micro servos buried within the tail plane and fin.
With only the servo wires taped to the fuselage stick there is both a significant saving in weight and aerodynamic drag.
Hopefully when all the mods are complete it will end up a more efficient 'slightly faster' Stick.
The aileron held at a modest 30 degrees.
But it requires a substantial 150g lump of lead to deflect it. Of course any aerodynamic load would have to be added.
Although this is still within the power of the 9g servo (about 1100 g) it still puts an unnecessary load on the gears and linkage. It also increases the current draw.
However with a thin tape top hinge the aileron deflects to about 75 degrees under its own weight!

A video testing the now hinged elevator and rudder using micro servos buried within the tail plane and fin.
With only the servo wires taped to the fuselage stick there is both a significant saving in weight and aerodynamic drag.
Hopefully when all the mods are complete it will end up a more efficient 'slightly faster' Stick.

#10

The airframe modifications are virtually complete.
The micro servo are all buried in their appropriate wing surface.
The removable tail section of the stick fuselage replaced by a lighter longer glass fibre tube.
The tail wheel in a light weight aluminium mount right at the back.
The 10x4.7 prop replaced by a 9x6.

Overall it has saved close to 2oz in weight which easily compensates for the reduction is static thrust from the slightly smaller diameter prop.
Its coarser pitch and the reduction in fuselage drag means it now speeds up significantly even in a shallow dive, indeed with the ESC brake on it is easily capable of a glide loop. Something that was completely beyond its capabilities in its original specification.
Now need to turn attention to streamlining that big motor/battery/ESC 'lump' at the front!
The micro servo are all buried in their appropriate wing surface.
The removable tail section of the stick fuselage replaced by a lighter longer glass fibre tube.
The tail wheel in a light weight aluminium mount right at the back.
The 10x4.7 prop replaced by a 9x6.
Overall it has saved close to 2oz in weight which easily compensates for the reduction is static thrust from the slightly smaller diameter prop.
Its coarser pitch and the reduction in fuselage drag means it now speeds up significantly even in a shallow dive, indeed with the ESC brake on it is easily capable of a glide loop. Something that was completely beyond its capabilities in its original specification.

Now need to turn attention to streamlining that big motor/battery/ESC 'lump' at the front!
#11

Just to complete the story the motor, ESC and battery in their final positions.
Note down thrust and the Depron 'behind the prop' spinner!

I doubt very much it makes that much difference but it can now do a power off 'glide' loop which was almost impossible in its original configuration.
Note down thrust and the Depron 'behind the prop' spinner!
I doubt very much it makes that much difference but it can now do a power off 'glide' loop which was almost impossible in its original configuration.
#12

Nice.
I haven't flown the hk slow stick, but I move my servos as close as I can to the tail, move the wing forwards some, then I throw a 250+ watt motor powered by three cells. A 10x5 is good for just putting around, and an 11x7 or 11x8.5 will make the reinforced wings flutter in the breeze.
I haven't flown the hk slow stick, but I move my servos as close as I can to the tail, move the wing forwards some, then I throw a 250+ watt motor powered by three cells. A 10x5 is good for just putting around, and an 11x7 or 11x8.5 will make the reinforced wings flutter in the breeze.
#13
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 1

I learned to fly on a Slow Stick back in 2004, and they are great fun as a beginner plane, and can be hopped pretty easily. I was excited to learn that these planes are back in production, so I am anxious to built it. A side note, the Slow Stick X by Millennium RC uses the same stick fuselage, but adds a straight wing w/ ailerons, and a lot more capability.