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Mini Telemaster Build thread

Old 10-13-2005, 05:07 AM
  #26  
N827TM
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When I also build my mini Telemaster I will also do bolt on wings. I think it is the only way to go. Mike, you are doing a great job.

Tom
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Old 10-13-2005, 11:41 AM
  #27  
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I,m building the larger telemaster and I,m trying to go the same route really dont like the ruber band deal.
Dave
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Old 10-13-2005, 02:37 PM
  #28  
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Are you going to add a battery hatch in the bottom of the fuselage?
Yep I will do that too.
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Old 10-13-2005, 03:15 PM
  #29  
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Re: battery hatches, I just happened to find these pictures of my mini telemaster while clearing the HD on my work computer. The first shows what I did for a battery hatch--I simply cut out a section of the bottom sheeting after building the fuse, then glued in support rails and added tongues to locate the hatch in the front with a magnet in the rear, matching to a washer glued on another tongue in the fuselage. I also added a battery tray about 2" up in the fuselage--velcro on the battery and a velcro strap through slits in the tray secure the battery--it always stayed put. The second picture is last winter(obviously) with the TM doing ski duty. I apologize for the picture quality, the first picture is from my 1.3mp cam archives and the second is from a cellphone . Anyhow, just hoped to give you some inspiration.
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Old 10-13-2005, 03:17 PM
  #30  
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Buzz that hatch is exactly what I am thinking.....thanks for the pic!

Mike
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Old 10-18-2005, 02:01 PM
  #31  
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Here is an update.....

Aileron time. I put in a half in piece on the wingtip and will use that for shaping the round tips. Then just standard aileron torque tubes and rods.

I used some scrap tubing and wire (about 1/32"). I put in the 90 degree bends for the tubes and ailerons. I rough up the tubes and wire so it will adhere well.

Then you just cut a slot for the tube in the Trailing edge material. Then I glued them with thick CA to the inner TE stock. Make triple sure you don't use more than a drop of CA as you don't want it to wick into the tubes glueing the rods!

Now for a trick that I have used in the past. Take some thin aluminum tube, flatten one end, drill a small hole in the end. Place that tube filled with epoxy on the end and then crimp (crush) the tube around the rod. Makes a nice, light way to connect to the torque rods.

Then I added some stock for the aileron servo to sit in. I just glued that to the bottom of the wing to allow the clearance for the servo. It is a off center servo placement so I would not hae to cut the middle ribs. I don't mind doing that with sheeting but this plane has none, so I want it for the stregth.

Simple and easy!

Mike
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Last edited by rcers; 10-18-2005 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 10-19-2005, 02:16 PM
  #32  
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Here are the pics that show the aileron servo installed.
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Old 10-19-2005, 02:50 PM
  #33  
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Lookin' good, Mike. It's kind of refreshing to see someone actually use a single servo aileron setup these days, and I think you made the right choice for this plane, considering the light structure.
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Old 10-20-2005, 11:57 PM
  #34  
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Here we go with a touch more work tonight.

Some webbing added.

Note that instead of glueing to the outside of the spar, it is much better IMHO to do the shear webs inside the spars. This makes an I beam. this makes the setup much stronger and does not rely on the shear strenght of the glue, but rather transfers the load to the wood.

You must, must however take plenty of time, to make sure the pieces are snug. Also note the grain direction - that is very important as the basla does not crush.

Mike
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Old 10-21-2005, 04:39 AM
  #35  
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Mike, not to derail your thread too much here, but I just wanted to let you know that the Mini Telemaster can definitely handle AP work. I just flew mine for the first time tonight since I "unmothballed" it and retrofitted my Nikon 3200 and a Hacker A20-20L I guess I should call it the "Mini Telephoto" now ?

I made a simple mount of paint stir sticks from Home Despot and liteply, with nylon hardware to bolt it to the fuselage(ply doublers were added) and allow the camera to tilt. I had to velcro an ounce of weight to the left wingtip to regain lateral balance, and it still needed left trim once airborn. I've attached a junky picture from my cellphone which shows the camera and mount setup, and one from the first batch I shot. It may or may not be of use to you, depending on what your intended setup for AP is. Pics weren't bad considering they were taken 10 minutes before statute sunset tonight. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to weed through the shots I took and post some on the AP forum here and on "that other site" tomorrow.

edit: the highlighted circle in the aerial shot is me, in case anyone's wondering
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Old 10-21-2005, 02:27 PM
  #36  
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but I just wanted to let you know that the Mini Telemaster can definitely handle AP work.
Nope that is what mine will do too! I will fly without the mods first. I will use my Nikon 2500 Coolpix, but it will be mostly inside the fuse. Plans are to mount it to the bottom or in this case top of the battery tray. My lens swivels, so mounting and angle will be a snap.

Pics to come (when I get to that!).

Mike
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:10 AM
  #37  
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Well some more work....

Landing gear is done and mounted. I will fix the slight toe in before flight!

Just one strap, it will be plenty.
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:12 AM
  #38  
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Here is the tailwheel......

I will make mine steerable, instead of just a wire skid.

I will use a piece of thin 1/32" ply with a servo brass gromet insert to act as a bushing. Easy and light.
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:58 AM
  #39  
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Nice build progress. Mine is definitely in the queue now. I need to make it special though. I think I'll try to recreate the red, white and blue U.S. Mail livery I did on my Telemaster 40 back in the 80's.


Joe
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Old 10-26-2005, 04:48 AM
  #40  
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I love the idea of using a servo grommet as a bushing for the tailwheel strut! I simply bent a length of music wire to the desired shape and sandwiched it inside of a dubro 1/2a control horn(the type with a screw plate on both sides of the control surface) at the bottom of the rudder, but your idea seems far more durable, and somehow more elegant.
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:11 PM
  #41  
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I think I'll try to recreate the red, white and blue U.S. Mail livery I did on my Telemaster 40 back in the 80's.
That will look great. Mine will be red and yellow. Should be covering soon. I need to get the wing mount figured out as I have to get balance set, so I can get the battery tray servos in the right spot.

Almost ready to cover!

Mike
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:13 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by buzzbomber View Post
I love the idea of using a servo grommet as a bushing for the tailwheel strut! I simply bent a length of music wire to the desired shape and sandwiched it inside of a dubro 1/2a control horn(the type with a screw plate on both sides of the control surface) at the bottom of the rudder, but your idea seems far more durable, and somehow more elegant.
I have used this method, as well as a "tube" that is fiberglassed to the fuse tail post work well. This method is light and takes the stress off the rudder.

On bigger planes I just break down and buy the plastic ones for a buck and change!

Mike
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Old 10-27-2005, 11:27 PM
  #43  
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On to the wing mounting.

I started with a 1/16" piece of ply glued to the front of the wing saddle. It will be used for "holding" the dowel.

From the bottom (second shot) you can see the notch for where the dowel can go. It is not very long as the windscreen is right there.
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Old 10-27-2005, 11:29 PM
  #44  
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The wing dowel was tricky as the wing is really the highest point of the fuse. So how about glueing the wing dowel to the bottom side of ribs. This lowers where it hits. A bit of fiberglass tape (very light stuff) to give just a touch more security. Remember the loads on the front of the wing are much higher than the rear.
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Old 10-27-2005, 11:35 PM
  #45  
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On to the wing mount. I glued a piece of 1/8 lite ply to the fuse sides, below the sticks. That gives it tons of strength.

Then I center the wing measure the tips to tail (to assure it is square) and tape the wing on. The tape holds it from shifting while drilling. Drill wing and block at the same time.

Then you tap the 1/8 lite ply block and put thin ca on the threads. Dry. Then retap the threads. This makes it super strong no binds nuts needed.

Some 1/32" ply glued to the TE material adds needed strength for the bolts.

Drill out the holes in the wing so the bolts slip through easily.

Done!

Bolts are far better than rubber bands....
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Old 11-03-2005, 11:03 PM
  #46  
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Battery tray is done. CG checks show that the battery should be about here. I hope so, as the LG block will make it tough to go any further forward.

Just a piece of 1/8" lite ply....
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Old 11-05-2005, 01:35 AM
  #47  
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Radio installation time for the elevator and rudder. Hitec hs55's used here.

I like solid wire pushrods. I use .032 wire and 1/8" support beams. I didn't have a small light tube, so I improvised with the heaver tube, but only put it in the important places! Works good and keeps it light.
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Old 11-05-2005, 01:40 AM
  #48  
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This may be the last update for a bit of time. I am doing a review for a very exctiting new RC product, and it will be very time consuming taking all my hobby time and more! I takes me forever to write, re-write, edit, take pictures and so on. Gives you a great appreciation for how much work a simple article can be!

Don't worry I will be back as soon as possible. I have a 30 day deadline so it won't be long. Maybe I will get a touch more done before my product arrives.

Mike
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:59 AM
  #49  
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My fuse is about half done ( I work slooow). I will be using HS 55's also so this will help. It looks like in the 2nd pic from the right that the push rods cross. Is this the way they are or am I seeing things? Thanks.
Gene
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Old 11-09-2005, 02:20 PM
  #50  
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It does appear that way. Typically(not always), pushrods do cross to allow the end an easier angle to exit the fuselage at the aft end. Mine are set up this way as well. Try to avoid letting the pushrods rub against one another (metal-metal or carbon-carbon) as this can cause radio interference.

On another note, telemaster related, I had to do some repair work to mine last night(~20 minutes, including patching the covering). I snuck out of the office for a lunchtime sortie yesterday, and when I was setting up the camera servo, I bumped the throttle. In the 1/2 second it took me to react, the plane lurched forward and the 10x5APC took a bite out of the center wing rib and 1st rib on the port side. It was an easy fix and I wrapped the front portion of the center rib with FG tape for good measure--better than new.
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