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Flyzone fokker DR 1

Old 02-04-2012, 05:12 AM
  #176  
barmonkey
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Looks great! I like the little details like the foot step and wing skids.

I haven't done much with mine lately. Still need to work on the new Spandaus...going to work on doing some photo-etch cooling jackets, but I need some warmer weather to work on that. I did manage to make an acceptable pair of more scale-like wheels.

Today, I picked up a Dr.I with the AnyLink module. For the record, the Tactic micro board has an auto-link feature which allows it to bind...well automatically (of course) to the module. I assume this happens each time it is powered up...so be wary of this when flying with other birds with the same brick.

I really wanted that AnyLink module and needed another brick so it worked out to be just a tiny bit more to get the entire plane along with it. I also have a complete "parts airframe" so ultimately, this means I can experiment with impunity! =)
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:14 AM
  #177  
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Default Lothar's Dr1

I've been watching this thread with great interest. I appreciate all the great ideas.

I'm just about done with my FZ Dr1 repaint. I chose Lothar von Richtofen's markings. Paints are Model Master's Enamels. I've added a few details like the steps and lifting handles and details to the motor. DJ's cockpit details too. I still have the wing tip skids to add. This sure was a great flier before. I hope I haven't added too much weight.

I guess I have to post a couple more times before I can ad a photo.


Thanks again for the inspiration gentlemen!
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:28 AM
  #178  
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Now a photograph!

Stripped the red off with blue tape on ghe wings, and debonder on the fuse. Dry brushed the green streaks then airbrushed on the yellow.

Had no luck trying to print decals with ink-jet (then sealing). These are just on regular label material. I think I'll remove them though and try to figure out how to make good water slide decals. I have a selection of crosses I did and sized with PhotoShop. If anyone would like the file, I can send it to you.



Here's a pic of the rotary.



Intake manifolds came from old 1/32 scale radial engine exhaust manifold. Push rods are stretched sprue. I guess I should try a painted prop next.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:31 AM
  #179  
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Very nice!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:00 AM
  #180  
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Yes very nice mods Lucky Dog , looking great
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:46 PM
  #181  
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looks nice. my decals are inkjet printings. they were quite easy to do. even the fuselage stencils on the clear paper. try again on new paper.
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:02 PM
  #182  
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Very nice
but it would be even better if that Oberursel went round with the prop.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:04 PM
  #183  
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You don't even have to use decal paper. You can use tissue paper. Look on the net to find how to articals to print on tissue paper.
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Old 02-10-2012, 12:16 AM
  #184  
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Thanks for the kind words and ideas. Actually, a second coat of sealer did the trick, and even though the blacks aren't as black as I'd prefer, I'm using the water slide decals. I do have some clear that I'll use for the serial number and weight table.

I've read some about printing on tissue, I'd like to try it sometime. I'm planning on doing an Albatros next with lozenge camo.
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:40 AM
  #185  
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Unhappy

I crunched my rudder again being careless. Truthfully, It's very frail (I think) at the hinge. So, I'm trying to build a very light weight built up one using cane reed.

Soaked the reed for an hour or so then shaped it around a cardboard form, then let it dry overnight.



Then added the ruder hinge area made from 1/64 balsa laminated cross grain with piece of old 5 1/4 floppy disc inserted for the hinge. Cross pieces are 1/32 balsa.



I just wish I had a clue as to it's weight compared to the stock foam rudder. I have some small dia. CF rod that I could have used for the cross braces. I wonder if it would be significantly lighter?

Here's a test fit before covering. The shape's not quite as a round as it should be.

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Old 02-17-2012, 02:49 AM
  #186  
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i also broke off the rudder, right after i finished the handles. i used a piece of old floppy disc to become the hinge-it is quite strong now. i've used the disc for one of my albatros rudders also.
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:56 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by waynek View Post
i also broke off the rudder, right after i finished the handles. i used a piece of old floppy disc to become the hinge-it is quite strong now. i've used the disc for one of my albatros rudders also.
I must be doing something wrong then. When I've tried to CA (foam safe) the hinge using a pice of floppy, the whole area just seem to turn very soft.

Last edited by Lucky Dog; 02-17-2012 at 03:47 AM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:51 AM
  #188  
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Hi, I just got a Dr.1 and couldn't be happier with it! It's a really fun little machine and handles great for a R/E/T. Took it out to the park tonight for the maiden and flew through three packs just goofing around. Really liked it, though I need to work on my WWI landing skills, to be sure

Got a short video for anyone interested, filmed with my 808 #16 key fob camera mounted with velcro to the brim of my hat:

http://vimeo.com/36942846

Steve
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:08 AM
  #189  
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I bailed on the idea of a built up rudder. Too heavy. Someone suggested a Styrofoam plate, (it's is just the right thickness) and made a new rudder.

I flew it Fri. in the small school gym our club flies in in the winter. It was very squirrely around the pitch axis. I assumed it was tail heavy and rigged a bigger battery fixed just behind the fake motor and it helped, but it still was not as docile as before. Not sure what the issue is. But I guess I should really check the balance. I suppose the top wing incidence could be off too.

It did look nice in the air, and man will it turn on a dime, even with the slightly smaller rudder.

I managed to bang it up by nose diving trying an Immelman too low. Some repairs to the motor needed. After 6-7 dis-assemblies now, it's starting to look a bit haggard.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:43 AM
  #190  
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LD-- You may need some parts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HCAA2555&P=Z

Or some foam to make new parts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3C%2FB%3E+foam

I got one yesterday at the WRAM Show.

Mike
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:24 AM
  #191  
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Hi Mike,
Thanks. I already ordered a set of tail feathers from Tower a while back when I broke the original rudder being careless. I just didn't want to have to again when I screwed up that one. Also, Tower still has the 1mm stuff on back order. The styro plate worked great.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:31 AM
  #192  
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I've just begun experimenting with heat applied to Depron. I need a bit of inspiration to go further.
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:47 PM
  #193  
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I hope someone could answer a question for me. I just bought the Tx-R version of this plane and I bind it to my Tactic TTX600 radio I already had. I want to move the rudder control from the left stick over to the right aileron stick as this is how I am used to flying and it is really awkward for me to fly with the rudder on the left instead of on the right stick. Is there a way to do this or must I get used to controlling left and right turns with the left stick. I hope this makes sense. Thanks!

Last edited by fast_dude2002; 03-02-2012 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:07 PM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by Lucky Dog View Post
I must be doing something wrong then. When I've tried to CA (foam safe) the hinge using a pice of floppy, the whole area just seem to turn very soft.
"CA" foam safe....please school me on this...i'm using quik cure epoxy...is the CA foam safe better?
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:11 PM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by Lucky Dog View Post
I crunched my rudder again being careless. Truthfully, It's very frail (I think) at the hinge. So, I'm trying to build a very light weight built up one using cane reed.

Soaked the reed for an hour or so then shaped it around a cardboard form, then let it dry overnight.



Then added the ruder hinge area made from 1/64 balsa laminated cross grain with piece of old 5 1/4 floppy disc inserted for the hinge. Cross pieces are 1/32 balsa.



I just wish I had a clue as to it's weight compared to the stock foam rudder. I have some small dia. CF rod that I could have used for the cross braces. I wonder if it would be significantly lighter?

Here's a test fit before covering. The shape's not quite as a round as it should be.

GREAT WORK! Impressive the way you formed that. I"ve got to dig up an old floppy for my "floppy" tail wing as well.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:50 PM
  #196  
degreen60
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Originally Posted by GONZAGASPIKE View Post
"CA" foam safe....please school me on this...i'm using quik cure epoxy...is the CA foam safe better?
Any glue has to be foam safe to use on foam or it will melt the foam. The quik cure epoxy you are using is probably not foam safe and is melting the foam making it soft.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:36 PM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by Lucky Dog View Post
Now a photograph!

Stripped the red off with blue tape on ghe wings, and debonder on the fuse. Dry brushed the green streaks then airbrushed on the yellow.

Had no luck trying to print decals with ink-jet (then sealing). These are just on regular label material. I think I'll remove them though and try to figure out how to make good water slide decals. I have a selection of crosses I did and sized with PhotoShop. If anyone would like the file, I can send it to you.



Here's a pic of the rotary.



Intake manifolds came from old 1/32 scale radial engine exhaust manifold. Push rods are stretched sprue. I guess I should try a painted prop next.
have you tried Testors decal paper for inkjet printers?
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:05 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by fast_dude2002 View Post
I hope someone could answer a question for me. I just bought the Tx-R version of this plane and I bind it to my Tactic TTX600 radio I already had. I want to move the rudder control from the left stick over to the right aileron stick as this is how I am used to flying and it is really awkward for me to fly with the rudder on the left instead of on the right stick. Is there a way to do this or must I get used to controlling left and right turns with the left stick. I hope this makes sense. Thanks!
Did you ever get an answer to your question? I just got one of these and have the same problem except I'm just using an old jr Quattro tx I had laying around
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:01 AM
  #199  
Lucky Dog
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I think you turn the tx off, hold the right stick trim button down and turn the tx back on. Or is that for reversing? I'll try and see if I can duplicate. I had to use the Tactic a while ago when my 6Xi was in the shop.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:38 AM
  #200  
Lucky Dog
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My second Dr1 I'm going to do as 152/17. My Lothar Dr1 came out really heavy and flies poorly, so I figure 152/17 (only top wing, rudder, cowl and rear fuse is red) will be lighter.

So far I've only repainted the rudder and cowl (mostly to distinguish from other Dr1s flying in our small gym). The stock ones just fly so well, I putting off possibly screwing up a second one).

Wheels
I have found more scale size wheels. The stock FZ Dr1 uses the same wheels and the smaller scale Albatros. DuBro's microlite 1.5" wheels work well. I painted them gray to duplicate the synthetic rubber the Germans used. I used red wrapping paper for the wheel covers and attached with spray adhesive. The color was a near perfect match. Added weight was only 1g. No discernible difference in flight behavior.



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