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Brushless motor and prop setup for the Stryker, Manufacture recommended upgrade

Old 10-20-2008, 12:33 AM
  #1  
LinemanLU47
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Default Brushless motor and prop setup for the Stryker, Manufacture recommended upgrade

I am thinking of adding a Stryker to my stable of park flyers. I will be building it from scratch as I all ready have a radio/ receiver/servos. Like many others I’m not sure what motor to use. I’ve done a fair amount of research and seen almost everything, 20 dollars to 120 dollars, outrunners, inrunners, ducted fans and even a couple nitro Strykers. My goal… The area where I fly is on the small side so I’m not looking for a 100+ mph Stryker. I have flown the stock F 27 C and would like a little better performance. I would also like my Stryker to be reliable and be the most efficient possible. Efficient meaning providing the most thrust per watt (longer flights). I am by no means a brushless motor expert but I have spent some time with different thrust/efficiency calculators including Motocalc. This is a set up many are using and recommending in forums. 2700kv or higher motor turning a small prop at very high rpm drawing so many amps that it requires a 80 amp esc. This set up, although fast doesn’t seem to be very efficient. I’m guessing 4 to 6 minutes flying time on a 2200 Lipo. I am looking at the E-flight 2000 kv six series. I currently own 2 of these motors. I have had nothing but good luck with them. One was given to me with about 300 flights on it and I have added many more. I’m using it in a direct drive application and it seems to have more torque than all others I have tried and I get 13+ minutes of flight time on a 2150 lipo. I also purchased another one I’m using in a PZ Spitfire with a gearbox. I noticed in the motor instructions that this is the motor that is recommended for upgrading the Stryker B to brushless. The Manufacture recommended set up for the Stryker is the 2000kv six series with a 40 amp esc and a ACP 7x6 sport prop and 2100 3 cell lipo. Low kv, big prop/thrust, low amps/rpm, hummmm. The comments under the set up specs reads “Extreme power and performance with long flight time. Expect unlimited vertical performance and high speeds". Sounds like exactly what I’m looking for. So I log on to all the big RC forums to see what others are saying about this setup. Well after a lot of searching I can’t find any one using it or talking about it. So………all you motor/Stryker experts, what can you tell me about this set up or another one that fits what I want. I will list the stuff I’ll be using for my Stryker. Thanks in advance for any help or info.

Stock Stryker airframe (well maybe a few mods)
Dx6i Radio
AR 6200 receiver
HS-82 mg servos
E-flight 40 amp pro switch mode esc
2150 mAh 3 cell 20c lipos
Motor/prop ?? hoping for around 80 mph with good vertical thrust and longer flight times, reliable and efficient.

Last edited by LinemanLU47; 10-20-2008 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 10-22-2008, 06:14 AM
  #2  
dday
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i have at least 600 flights on e-flite six 2000 kv. castle t-bird 54 esc,3s 2200 pz lipo, apc 6x4 or 6x5.5 seems to work best.everything stays nice & cool. the e-flite motor has been bulletproof. full steam straight in at least twice, no damage to motor or hi tec 81 mg servos.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:24 AM
  #3  
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Email Microdan @ gobrushless.com and he will set you up to be balistic.. I have a heli motor on mine and it is crazy. It will outrun a stock brushless and then some..


LATER
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Old 10-27-2008, 09:11 PM
  #4  
DragonWeezel
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The best upgrade I did so far, was a better battery. I got 2 polyquest batteries spec'd same as stock(except 20C instead of 15), but lighter, bigger, for about $85 and WHOLLY CRAP! what a difference!

The stryker took on a whole new persona w/ simply a battery change! I got a 22 minute flight last night on a pulse glide launch, and a 16 min. flight on mixed flying. Same servos (82's) and otherwise stock oh, pluss a blue LED laser cannon (really just bright LEDs) So I can tell wether I am going to or from when I am far out.

My prop is finally dinged up a touch, so I am wondering the same q about prop selection.

I also have a small flying area, but I make good use of airspace when I am up high, and don't fly crazy unless I am over the field.

What kind of flight times are others getting? My stryker has a lot of tape on it. it's got well over 100 flights, and nothing is non stock except the servos (which broke on flight #2) I really want to make a new body just to see "how long" I could fly it.
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Old 10-27-2008, 10:16 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by DragonWeezel View Post
The best upgrade I did so far, was a better battery. I got 2 polyquest batteries spec'd same as stock(except 20C instead of 15), but lighter, bigger, for about $85 and WHOLLY CRAP! what a difference!
I've had the same experience with my Stryker! I recently picked up some Mystery 2200mAh 25c lipos on eBay (just under $50 for two, delivered). These batteries are awesome! Light weight (160 grams) and super powerful. My Stryker is noticably faster straight and level, and vertical performance is straight up to the limit of sight!

The batteries are barely warm when I'm done.
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Old 10-28-2008, 01:49 AM
  #6  
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I've been thinking about this one myself, Hows a 400 sized outrunner with a 1000mah 4cell pack sound? hxt900 servos.... 30amp esc,

I've got a couple of these I think May bolt right up to the stock plasic mount ... prob try with a 7x5 prop...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5690&Product_Name=Turnig y_2217_16turn_1050kv_23A_Outrunner

SK
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Old 10-28-2008, 02:57 AM
  #7  
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Perfect motor!
Stefan Bruckner I bought this motor for a 600g park flyer. Its perfect for climbing vertically in the sky and fly any figure you want.
But here some facts about the motor:
the motor has a very good quiet running
good construction, no bearing clearance
many accessories

here my measured data with the Eagletree Datalogger v2 and checked with my Watt's Up v2.1 :

idle:
11,51V - 1,15A - 12830rpm
7,6V - 0,73A - 8435rpm

load:
10,06V - 12,58A - 9003rpm - 830g - APC E 9x4,5
9,88V - 17,07A - 8402rpm - 630g - APC E 8x8
9,95V - 14,45A - 8818rpm - 880g - APC SF 9x4,7
9,41V - 21,43A - 7518rpm - 1170g - APC SF 10x4,7

Lipo was an HXT D9 Gen2. 3s1p 2200mAH.
Very good results for that amazing price.
I will buy two more of them to boost my Multiplex Twinstar II.
5 Stars.
Sure you picked the right one? This one is only rated for 3s? will it take 4s and a smaller prop?
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:46 AM
  #8  
ministeve2003
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Originally Posted by pburt1975 View Post
Sure you picked the right one? This one is only rated for 3s? will it take 4s and a smaller prop?
Spec.
Kv: 1050rpm/v
Operating Current: 6A ~ 18A
Peak Current: 18A
Suggested prop: 10x6.0 E-prop
Suggested Battery: 1700~2200mAh 3S1P
Weight: 71g
Dimensions: 27.6 x 36mm
Shaft Size: 3.175mm

Kit includes full accessories, including gold bullet connectors, prop saver, mount, spare rubber rings, shrink tube and screws.

I'm actually Not sure it will, But as long as I keep it in the proper watts it might be ok... I've been meaning to test that theory out anyways... I've seen some stuff lately that suggests I can go slightly higher on most motors as long as I keep them in spec for Watts... and I'd like to test that theory...

225watts is what I currently use it on for 3cell on a 10x4.7 ...and comes down cold...

So... 225w/14.8v=15a... so if it can take the extra volts... I need to prop around 15amps... maybe 6x5 or 7x5...

ps, I could go back to 3cell, but then I'd need a higher KV motor... and I want the low weight....

SK

Last edited by ministeve2003; 10-28-2008 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 01:17 PM
  #9  
pburt1975
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Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post

225watts is what I currently use it on for 3cell on a 10x4.7 ...and comes down cold...

So... 225w/14.8v=15a... so if it can take the extra volts... I need to prop around 15amps... maybe 6x5 or 7x5...

ps, I could go back to 3cell, but then I'd need a higher KV motor... and I want the low weight....

SK
I hope you dont think I was choppin at ya there, Im in a spot looking for a way to fix our Stryker, landed in a tree and now the motor runs up but the prop will not spin, and was thinking an upgrade motor when I get a 2100mah 3s would be just the ticket.

Let me know if that works for you SK! Judging by the reviews on there, you'd be of the first to do so. GL
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:13 PM
  #10  
ministeve2003
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good news is I was able to test the smaller version a little bit today... I didn't have my wattmeter handy (I think its in my buddys car) so I just took the prop off, and hooked up a 4cell 2300mah pack to it... It spins up fine and static for 10 seconds is cold... So I'm going to assume it will hold up so long as I keep it in the same Watts...

Here is the motor tested
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._15A_Outrunner

next step, get my wattmeter back, a 6x4 and 6x5 prop, (start testing with a 4.1x4.1) and see what happends... good thing these motors are so cheap...lol

SK
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:04 PM
  #11  
DragonWeezel
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Just when I thought it couldn't get better, I visited my LHS.

You see, my stryker has about 100 flights on it, and I have "landed" it on water, grass, gravel, pavement, and a moving vehicle once. (it was sweet, just like Knight Rider)

O.k. so no moving vehicle, but I have done a water landing or two. Anyhow... My prop was showing signs of wear, so I went to the LHS and asked them what should I do? replace w/ this 3.50 stock prop, or get this guy over here that's a little longer, and pitched harder?

It was like friggin rocketfuel in a prop Oh my. Now my battery and pack actually get a little warm. (not too warm, not too cold, but like Goldie Lock's porridge...just right)
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:11 PM
  #12  
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yup, the right setup makes all the difference... and that includes the right prop...
SK
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Old 11-15-2008, 10:43 AM
  #13  
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Ok, News Update on my light - 4cell stryker....

Seems I needed a bigger prop than I thought.... it took alot to actually get the watts out of that motor.... and it seems to do fine... its not heating up at all even static....

Specs are now at 4cell 1000mah, 15amps, 220 watts, 1.2lbs and a 7x7 groupner prop....

So I have almost exactly 200 watts per pound.... sounds good... I'll let you know how the maiden goes....

Cool thing is the motor mounted directly up to the stock stryker C mount (with 2 screws), I just needed to move the whole mount a little forward so that the motor didn't sit way out behind the frame, and I needed a couple new mount screws for the C-mount... because pushing it forward made the old screws too short to reach the underside mounting holes....

SK
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Old 11-17-2008, 02:19 AM
  #14  
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Ok, One more update on the light stryker....

speed is around 70mph, 20oz, flys like I've never seen a stryker fly ever...

its still pretty quick, but it took out the stryker noise... infact its super quiet... Al was fumbling with his camera, and just as he was looking up he asked "ok, where's your stryker" then saw it was 20ft infront of him heading straight at him... (I was playing around....again....LOL) his comment was "wow, thats really quiet"

its so light that it turns easy, floats at walking pace... and is very fun.... flight time was about 8 minutes with full throttle for about 80% of the time... did I mention Its still a 70mph delta....LOL

things I did with it that wasn't possible before, walking pace circles at aprox 10ft with very litle throttle, knifedge style circles over and over dozens of times without it wanting to drop, 5ft loops... I'll try getting some footage of it next weekend...

Things I can do to lighten it up.... change servos to hxt900's (I used some heavy MG digital ones (cause I had them)) and change the esc to a 18amp turingy esc (4cell rated) that should knock another 1oz off it...

I'm definately loving this new stryker... Personally I would like to find another motor like this one (slightly faster but same weight)

after flying this one... I will never build another one with a 2000mah 3cell pack... the lightness is such an improvement.... (but for stock inrunner you will have to for weight offset...)

SK
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:31 AM
  #15  
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It was a sight to see. Lighter was more manuverable, tighter loops and circles. And quiet almost silent here's the pics. What ever you do try to go less than a 2250ma3s battery. The 1000ma 4s Steve came up with really out performs. Now I'm curious if a 1lb. or less Stryker can be done. Steve , remember how quick the Boo Boo B-2 was on the micro blue wonder motor.Wont do 4 cells tho HUH?
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:59 AM
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since it worked out perfect, now I'm thinking about doing a light funjet, How about this motor proped to 700watts on a 4cell 1550mah battery.....can somebody say...ZOOOMMMM....hehehe

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8137

SK
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:31 PM
  #17  
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LinemanLU47,
I have this motor and have tested it pretty hard. You can run a 6x6 inch prop on 4s with a heatsink and be fine. you can run a 7x7 inch prop with a heatsink on 3s and also be OK. (Thats only for 2 bladed props, anything more than what I said and you MUST watch your throttle management or she will fry, I guarantee nothing, but am willing to share my inflight data from Oracle) You will need at least a 2600mAH at 25c for the best performance, and if you have GREAT throttle management you can get up to 15 minute flights on the 2600mAH battery. You SHOULD use the E-Flite 60a Pro ESC, if you do then you will get around 1500 more RPM's and pull a few more amps (vs the 40a ESC), but it definately will show in the performance of that motor. The 40 will work, but you MUST keep it cool by providing additional cooling, tape the first 5 or 6 slots in the rear cover so all of the air is forced to exit after the ESC and enlarge the next few slots, even better would be to cover all slots and cut off anything after the ESC. Good luck.

Last edited by moparmyway; 12-01-2008 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 12-01-2008, 12:43 AM
  #18  
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I'm still waiting for my funjets to arrive...

I changed my mind and went with this motor... sllghtly lower kv... I will try with a 4cell 2000 pack... and prop to around 35amps or so... so around 500 watts... should be sufficent without totally overloading the weight of the plane or the battery...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8138

also I will be using a 60amp turnigy esc....

SK
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Old 01-10-2009, 07:50 AM
  #19  
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Hey Guys,

Just stumbled across this post and thought I'd inform some people on setups. I was one of the first guys to try out a 4s lipo on the stock brushless motor last year, with GriphonRCU begging us for info, lol. I found I had to "weld" the rear of my motor together with red loctite as it kept coming apart from the torque. Been fine since. Put around 30 flights on her last summer and still going strong. I did toss a blue heatsink on the motor to aid cooling, but it's not really required.


Here's the static data: (Zippy-R 4s 2200 21C, 70A ESC, UBEC, 6x5.5 APC-E, stock 1880kv motor, HXT900 9g servos, DX6i, modded fuse, 3500ft. ASL)

Burst:
35.54A
14.07V
501W!!!!!

Sustained (15 sec full throttle):
31.5A
13.7V
432W


Speed is around 90-95mph strightline. An easy 110mph diving. She goes like snot! And extremely cheap as it's all hobbycity parts.


Anyways, just a suggestion for anyone looking to hype up their stock F-27C.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:18 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Eganwp View Post


Here's the static data: (Zippy-R 4s 2200 21C, 70A ESC, UBEC, 6x5.5 APC-E, stock 1880kv motor, HXT900 9g servos, DX6i, modded fuse, 3500ft. ASL)

Burst:
35.54A
14.07V
501W!!!!!

Sustained (15 sec full throttle):
31.5A
13.7V
432W


Speed is around 90-95mph strightline. An easy 110mph diving. She goes like snot! And extremely cheap as it's all hobbycity parts.


Anyways, just a suggestion for anyone looking to hype up their stock F-27C.
Heya,

I was hoping you could (or anyone for that matter) post some pictures (or guide me to some pictures) of how you're mounting your 4S packs in the stryker. Obviously, it looks like some cutting/sanding needs to be done. The plane is way nose heavy when mounting the 4S in the same position as the 3S.

Where I think the battery needs to be mounted means I wouldn't be able to use the stock covers (talking about the black plastic pieces) and still have easy access to the battery. If that's true - not entirely sure how to work around that problem, so I would appreicate some help since you (and it seems others) are running on 4S packs.

Thanks in advance!

-
mike
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:44 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by carpetbomb View Post
Heya,

I was hoping you could (or anyone for that matter) post some pictures (or guide me to some pictures) of how you're mounting your 4S packs in the stryker. Obviously, it looks like some cutting/sanding needs to be done. The plane is way nose heavy when mounting the 4S in the same position as the 3S.

mike
There is ALOT of hacking you can do. You should run about 1 to 1.5 inches of FORWARD CG !!!!!

Here is 5s-5000 (30c)
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:00 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
There is ALOT of hacking you can do. You should run about 1 to 1.5 inches of FORWARD CG !!!!!

Here is 5s-5000 (30c)
Oh, ok. 1.5 inches of forward CG makes things a lot easier. I'm running now with a 4S, but I have it exposed in flight since the original cover does not fit anymore. Sounds stronger in the air with both a 6x4, and 6x5.5 (original motor, upgraded ESC), but does not seem to be moving much faster. Either the speed increase isn't enough for me to notice, or I'm guessing (more likely) having things exposed is causing too much drag. I guess another possibility is the extra weight of the 4S is hindering the additional performance.

In your setup - what do you use to the cover battery?
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by carpetbomb View Post
I'm running now with a 4S, but I have it exposed in flight since the original cover does not fit anymore. I guess another possibility is the extra weight of the 4S is hindering the additional performance.

In your setup - what do you use to the cover battery?
Dig that foam out to lower your battery. Hopefully you have cut a groove front to back and recessed some CF rod. Dig down to the rod. Dont go past, but get it so you can just see it. The stock covers will fit, but you will loose the stock latch. To remedy that, I glued all covers together and install a hinge in the front. 4 screws hold the cover down on the last hatch, and having the hinge up front keeps the front from popping up.
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:01 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
Dig that foam out to lower your battery. Hopefully you have cut a groove front to back and recessed some CF rod. Dig down to the rod. Dont go past, but get it so you can just see it. The stock covers will fit, but you will loose the stock latch. To remedy that, I glued all covers together and install a hinge in the front. 4 screws hold the cover down on the last hatch, and having the hinge up front keeps the front from popping up.
Looks pretty slick! thanks for posting those pictures - really helps.
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