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E-flite P-38 combo

Old 08-29-2008, 04:40 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
any tips on how to get my eflite 450 prop adapterd to stop flying off?
I've had that problem with other planes. What worked for me was to 1) clean the prop shaft with solvent (watch the foam!) or alcohol 2) apply a drop or two of blue thread lock to the shaft (don't use red - it will be too hard to remove if you have to) 3) screw it down tight as you can.
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:47 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
any tips on how to get my eflite 450 prop adapterd to stop flying off?
You need to sand the motor shaft with some 60 grit sandpaper (or a metal file). The idea is to "rough up" the smooth metal surface, to give the collet something to grab hold of.

Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
Happened twice now and the loosed prop cuts into the side of the Gondola. (is that what its called?)
Yes -- the center pod, where the pilot sits, is called the "gondola".

There are lots of things that can go wrong on a twin, in flight, but all the BAD things involve losing thrust from one motor. If you lose your prop, in flight, there's a very good chance you will crash.

PLEASE make sure your prop adapters are very secure, before the maiden. If your P-38 starts "squirreling out" (acts like an aileron or rudder is stuck), cut the power immediately, and glide to a landing -- do NOT attempt to increase throttle before landing!!!

Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
thanks.
Sure.

Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
It feels so strong and powerful on the ground. Can't wait to fly her when my batteries come in.
Oh yeah -- there's much more thrust than you need. When you get comfortable with your P-38, you can actually HOVER (3D) her.

Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
What are your thoughts about my ESC situation. I took 16 inches of red and 16 inches of black wire, soldered an end to each esc. In the middle of the 16 inches where the wire goes through the battery bay I removed the silicon covering and soldered 4 inches of red wire and 4 inches of black with a deans on the end of that 4 inch section.
This sounds good, but how did you insulate the exposed wire?

Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
To get the escs out you'll have to cut the wires.
When I build mine, I tend to create a "Y harness", with a male Deans connector, and two female Deans connectors. This way, the ESC can be pulled out of the boom cowling.

Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
Can I program them at the same time?
No. :o

Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
Should I cut them, program them and resolder.
Yes, but when you resolder, just add some Deans connectors.

Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
I want to eliminate the LVC to prevent one motor quitting early.
That's very risky... I've tried it several different methods, and the best way is to set your LVC to SOFT CUTOFF, and time your flights to keep your battery (fuel) half full when you land.

One of my previous methods was a very complex method of using a Dimension Engineering Smart BEC to cut power to BOTH motors, when it detected LVC. To do this, I disabled the BEC and LVC on both Phoenix 25 ESCs... I've tried it on two GWS P-38's, and both crashed on the 4th flight. I'm thinking I'm going to abandon that method. :o
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:57 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Fly Time View Post
I've had that problem with other planes. What worked for me was to 1) clean the prop shaft with solvent (watch the foam!) or alcohol 2) apply a drop or two of blue thread lock to the shaft (don't use red - it will be too hard to remove if you have to) 3) screw it down tight as you can.
Sounds good, thanks.
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:59 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post

This sounds good, but how did you insulate the exposed wire?



Yes, but when you resolder, just add some Deans connectors.
I used electricle tape to insulate it. Good, bad?

I chose to not solder the deans in so many places to reduce solder joints. I am not the greatest at soldering.
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Old 08-29-2008, 08:23 PM
  #55  
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Actually, thinking a little more about it, you CAN program them without cutting your power wires.

All you need to do is disconnect the servo wire from the ESC you do not want to program. The ESC can be POWERED, without receiving programming signals.

With respect to electrical tape -- that's probably not such a good idea... The tape might come loose, and cause a short... :o Do you have any shrink wrap tubing?
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Old 08-29-2008, 08:36 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
Actually, thinking a little more about it, you CAN program them without cutting your power wires.

All you need to do is disconnect the servo wire from the ESC you do not want to program. The ESC can be POWERED, without receiving programming signals.

With respect to electrical tape -- that's probably not such a good idea... The tape might come loose, and cause a short... :o Do you have any shrink wrap tubing?
I have all kinds of shrinkwrap but the solder joint is a T with no way that I can see to get wrap around it.

Are you sure power to an esc without signal won't fry it? My thinking is this is why you turn the Tx on before plugging in the battery, making sure the esc has signal when powwerd. Is that correct?
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Old 08-29-2008, 08:48 PM
  #57  
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you turn on the TX before plugging in the battery to prevent a "shootdown" where another controller takes control of your plane and it crashes. Not a problem on 2.4ghz. yes you can power an ESC without the signal.

instead of electrical tape, you could get some liquid electrical tape and use that. No chance of it loosening.
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Old 08-29-2008, 09:24 PM
  #58  
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...as for the "T" intersection, if you lay one wire on top of the other, your "T" becomes a "=-", and is easy to shrink wrap.

This is how I do mine.
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Old 08-30-2008, 03:34 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
...as for the "T" intersection, if you lay one wire on top of the other, your "T" becomes a "=-", and is easy to shrink wrap.

This is how I do mine.
It's so clear now.......now that I have went and bought liquid tape and done it all. Thanks!!

Just kidding. That;s why I love you wattheads, you help me see the obvious so often it aint even funny.

Scared to death of the P-38 just so you know. Twice the chance of trouble and so beautiful that I just know I'm gonna screw up.

Every last detail is done and waiting for weather to fly...tell ya how it goes soon.
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:59 PM
  #60  
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You have a very HEALTHY respect for your P-38. You will do just fine.
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Old 09-06-2008, 07:54 PM
  #61  
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well, I just maidened mine...great flight even though it seems to be a liitle nose heavy. I flew for about four minutes and decided to bring her down. Being nose heavy meant I had to keep my speed up in order to keep her level. Not good for a first landing. Hit tarmac hard which resulted in a bounce.

All in one piece. just some scuffing on one of the cowls. no biggie. Flys real nice and feels strong in the air. Can't wait to get some more time under my belt with her.
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Old 09-07-2008, 01:13 AM
  #62  
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back from 2nd and 3rd flight. 2nd flight ended with drop tanks being ripped off and front landing gear ripping off as well. Broke left boom where it connects to verticle stab. Clean brake and easy repair.

Took off LG and hand tossed for 3rd flight. Much less nerve racking. Landing was much better as well. Dead sticked her in for a gentle grass slide. Had some twitching in the air. Not really sure why. Kept dropping left wing. (Three times)

i am hoping to get a ton of flights on this one before it buys the farm. Off to an uncertain start though.
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Old 09-17-2008, 05:32 PM
  #63  
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well got rid of the twitching by rerouting the antenna. However while trying to figure out how far to bleed off speed on the landing I tip stalled the plane into a cartwheel. This resulted in the boom breaking at the servo wells and the elevator/ruuder section breaking off at the skinnest part of the booms. Glued and ready to go again!

Still makes my heart sink to launch this plane.
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Old 09-17-2008, 05:48 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
well got rid of the twitching by rerouting the antenna. However while trying to figure out how far to bleed off speed on the landing I tip stalled the plane into a cartwheel. This resulted in the boom breaking at the servo wells and the elevator/ruuder section breaking off at the skinnest part of the booms. Glued and ready to go again!

Still makes my heart sink to launch this plane.
A couple things you can do to minimize tip stalls:

1) adjust the aileron clevises so that both ailerons deflect upwards ever so slightly. This will help keep the wing tip from stalling before the wing root. More importantly, make sure they are not both deflected down.
2) make sure you are not flying tail heavy. A little nose heavy is okay.
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Old 09-18-2008, 01:03 AM
  #65  
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pstrdenver::Check your sink-rate three boo-boos up and see how fast you gotta land, these scale planes land faster than most any other planes and twins land faster than single's to boot so there you are ,,,, It's gonna land FAST, Keep the nose down as well till just of the deck,, then flare,, good luck my bub! Keep her nose-heavy, bub steve
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:40 AM
  #66  
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See that wheelbarrow of steve's? That for pickin up twins that landed too slow
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Old 09-27-2008, 03:20 AM
  #67  
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well, through much trial and error I think I found that sweet bird within.

I had to cut out one of the stick mounts and re-glue making it match the other one. After this I added some up elevator to compensate for the CF rod that I had glued to the underside of the elevator.

Flew a battery and voila, there she was...beautiful!

I appreciate all the posts to get me going. She really is a nice looking and now, finally, a nice flying plane.

p.s. getting about 7 minutes 3/4 throttle flight times. All belly lands these days.
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Old 09-27-2008, 03:41 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by pstrdenver View Post
well, through much trial and error I think I found that sweet bird within.

I had to cut out one of the stick mounts and re-glue making it match the other one. After this I added some up elevator to compensate for the CF rod that I had glued to the underside of the elevator.

Flew a battery and voila, there she was...beautiful!

I appreciate all the posts to get me going. She really is a nice looking and now, finally, a nice flying plane.

p.s. getting about 7 minutes 3/4 throttle flight times. All belly lands these days.
That is good news my bub! These twins'll get Addictive!! I just got the Flight-packs for new twin which is Much lighter than the other so may I be able to slow her down a tad,, That P-38 of yours is a sweet look'in bird for sure,! your bub, steve
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Old 09-27-2008, 03:47 PM
  #69  
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Default phase 3 p-38

I hate to bump an old topic, but those of you who are looking at the phase 3 p-38 someone posted, its a great plane, and its easy to handle. After 2 laps around the field, i was doing rolls, lopps, and low high speed passes.

some pictures of the beautifull phase 3 p-38 lightining (not mine, from youtube and rc groups)




like lieutenant, im getting a love for p-38's
~pvt

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Old 11-25-2008, 04:41 PM
  #70  
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well I've gotten about 20 flight son my p-38 now. She is really a nice plane to fly but she also makes me as nervous as all get out.

Man is she ever beautiful in the air though. Very impressive profile.
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:54 AM
  #71  
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I love the E-Flite P-38. I almost got one but tied a balsa 52" P-38 from Richmodel instead. She is a beauty in the air but not easy to fly. I had 2 small mishaps this summer with it. Takes a lot more time to fix than foam . I finished rebuilding the nose gear (and part of the nose) and still need to change one motor.
I will probably upgrade both motors with a pair of Turnigy 35-36C 1100Kv. I am currently pulling 340watts out of 2 3s 2100mAh in parallel and would like to get about 500watts of power to have a little safety margin. At a little over 4 pounds she is quite a tough cookie to fly... I had two rough landings in 6 flights...
I will have it ready for Chrismas holiday and will be able to fly it again over the frozen lake (belly landing in the snow if needed).

Here are a few picture of it. Sorry, no action pics as I never got a chance of taking any...
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:37 AM
  #72  
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man, I'm so bummed I can't be flying my P-38 right now.
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:49 AM
  #73  
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Why not?
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Old 01-11-2009, 04:16 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
Why not?
13 inches of snow, arctic air, and high winds!!!!
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:56 PM
  #75  
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Ahhh -- that makes sense!

I thought you were going to cite high winds, and I was going to tell you that I've flown my GWS P-38 (same size and weight as the Eflite P-38) in 18 mph winds, with no problems.
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