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BUSA 1/4 Scale Fokker Dr.1

Old 02-29-2016, 04:19 PM
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Mongo40
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Default BUSA 1/4 Scale Fokker Dr.1

Picked one of these up off a fellow that was getting out of the hobby, he assembled the wings, fuse an landing gear braces then stopped, He'd purchased the Williams Bros Guns, wheels an a Fiberglass cowl also. Every thing I have is electric so kicking around whether I want try electric with this or stick a gasser in it, has anyone built one of these a put an electric motor in it, saw one thread where a guy did one an was painting it but never how it worked out.

Looking for motor / prop recommendations for this plane, Thanks

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Old 02-29-2016, 04:50 PM
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The main issue we run into with e-power in WWI fighters is the short nose making it difficult to get proper CG without a lot of lead.

Other than that... it really doesn't matter what turns the prop. If the plane is the same weight and the same prop is turning the same RPM... it will fly the same.
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:04 AM
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not sure how much the BUSA DR1 weighs, but I have had good success with my electric DR1 at 1/3 size. and to boot, if you are careful to build the tail group as light as possible, and you put your batteries in the cowl area, not much added nose weight is required. If you look at the last page of the WW1 thread below, you can see a video of it flying on 6 4000 mah lithiums.
video is of the maiden, and surprisingly, it was nose heavy !

Last edited by Ron; 03-04-2016 at 06:31 AM.
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:40 AM
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Thanks Ron I've watched your video several times before, didn't realize it was electric, what motor do you have in that, love your plane!
Chris
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Old 03-04-2016, 06:31 AM
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Thank you Chris....it's several years old now like about 6 or 7 seasons on it.
Power is a Turnigy 63/74 on 6 4000 mah lithiums...28X12 hand carved prop...it's good for about 10 minutes of fairly spirited flying...it weighs 15 pounds.
It has as a stable mate, a 1/3 scale Sopwith Pup which weighs 35 pounds, flies on a Turnigy CA 80-80 9 lithium cells and a 28X10 prop. Not quite as lively as the DR1, but it weighs more than twice as much. I would assume you will be about 15 pounds? If so, my 1/4 scale pup flies on a Turnigy G110 on 6 cells, 20X10 prop. It weighs roughly 15 pounds, and has power to spare..it can do some not very scale type manoeuvres if you know what I mean :-) 1/4 size Sopwith triplane uses the same system G110, 20X10 and 6 cells. lots of power ( 19 pounds)
quarter size Tigermoth...Turnigy G 160 290KV 6 cells 20X12 prop....lots of power....22 pounds, ...and lastly...1/3 size Tiger Moth...111" wing span...E-Flite Power 160...9 cells, 20X10 Xoar prop.
Plane weighs 23 pounds, power system produces 350 ounces of thrust. so there's some not very expensive options for you...they all work well, and the E-Flite motor doesn't seem to work any better than the less expensive Turnigy G series I have used. ESC of choice has been the Turnigy sentilon 100 amp, 6 to 12 cell and the Mystery Cloud 100 amp six to ten cell. The Sentilon is about a hundred dollars...the Mystery Cloud is about twenty five, and seems to work as well. I do not use the BEC system though..I by-pass it and use a regulator and a 2 cell lithium for the receiver. Your Tri-plane has a sweet spot speed wise that takes surprisingly little power to get to...you can after that pour tons of watts at it, but it won't go much faster if any at all. That model needs lots of thrust from a large slower turning prop...not lots of RPM and a small prop. Hope this helps you out some. Don't fall into the watts per pound trap.

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Old 03-04-2016, 03:17 PM
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Ron thats one of the motors I was looking at, also the Turnigy 63/64, which I think is 245kv, which one would give me the most grunt between the 74 an 64?
I'm hoping that 15lbs is on the heavy side I've seen where some of the 1/4 scales weighed 12.5 to 13 or so, I'll plan on 15 to be safe.

Thanks
Chris

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Old 03-04-2016, 04:17 PM
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Always wanted to build one and i still might one of these days .Some one else on here has built a big WW-1 fighter but cant remember who at the moment .joe
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:15 PM
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If you are 15 pounds, the G110, or the E-flite Power 110 will be way more than enough power for you . I have forgotten exactly, but I believe scale prop size is 24"
At 24" on 6 cells, you could use 24X10 E-flite Power 160 and 6 cells. That combination flew my DR1 for a season, until I obtained the 63/74. the only reason I put the 63/74 in was because I wanted to swing a scale sized prop....the Power 160 was more than enough power.... prop was just too small for scale.
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:26 PM
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Thanks Ron! I'll go with the 63/74 then, its a lot cheaper than the 160 you listed there.
Chris
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:17 PM
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What about the Turnigy G 160 245 KV...also in-expensive, and a good motor. I believe the 63/74 is not a high enough KV for you. you need the 245 KV no matter what brand you choose.
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:55 PM
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Ron will the 160 turn a 24" prop if so I'll do that they have them in stock more than the 74s.
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:40 AM
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The 160 245 kv...should be the same as the E-flite power 160...which will definitely turn a 24X10 prop...I used the power 160 245kv and 24x10 prop on 6 cells for a season in my 1/3 size DR1
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Old 03-29-2016, 01:35 AM
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Hey Ron, any chance you took picks of how you mounted your motor in your 1/4 scale, I've got the turnigy 160 just trying to decide how I want to mount it? Thanks
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:54 PM
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Chris...i'll snap some pictures for you tonight. Bear in mind though, mine's 1/3 size not 1/4, so you may have to ' adjust" they way you go about it. did you get the G160 290 kv ? or 245 kv....if the 245 you can swing a 24" prop.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:18 PM
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I got the G160 245kv, based on your recommendation, just not sure how to mount it, guess using standoffs, just need to get some long enough that I can trim to fit, as I've got to have it so just clears the cowl,
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:54 AM
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I've started getting some work done on this thing, I'll try an take some pics as I go just keep in mind this will be a very slow process, started getting some of the parts together so I can get some stuff done, I've mounted a turnigy g160 using some 30mm stand offs and made some ply platforms to get the right spacing, made a servo rack for the rear controls an glued it in behind the firewall, cut an access door in the bottom an going to mount the battery there behind the firewall, got to fab a rack for it, going to mount the ESC right above the motor, the rack I made for it is drying right now, I also added a little support to the rudder via a small carbon rod, the top just seemed flimsy to me an I could see it breaking when it flipped over on it, I'll post more pics as I make progress if anyone cares to see.
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:56 AM
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On my iPad an seems I can only post one pic at a time!
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:58 AM
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The rudder obviously Smal carbon rod an piece of ply added.
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Old 04-05-2016, 07:51 PM
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Mongo:

You are not supposed to land with the wheels on the up side, they are supposed to be on the bottom :-) Then you wouldn't need to re-inforce the rudder.
Three point means two wheels and the tail, not two wheels and the nose :-) and as far as being on it's back, that's just plane lazy.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:37 PM
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Ron, I totally agree with you but for some reason every plane I fly at some point or time ends up on its back when I'm flying off grass, its the craziest thing, just can't figure it !!!
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:43 PM
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ESC tray glued in place an it has an on an off switch so made a couple of holes to run the wires inside to mount the switch an get to the battery.
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Old 04-16-2016, 03:47 AM
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looks like covering soon. Great stuff.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:50 PM
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Started covering some of the tail feathers, using Koverall an Sig Stixit, pretty easy so far, only problem is the stabilizer, really warped on me when I tightened the stuff up, not sure if its fixable with out redoing it. Advice???

Well I went ahead an removed it an will do it again, I guess on the more fragile pieces the trick it to leave it a little loose so when you tighten it up its got some room to tighten an not squeeze the wood up.
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Last edited by Mongo40; 04-21-2016 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:45 PM
  #24  
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In those lightweight structures you have to be real careful with shrinking the covering. some coverings just shrink too powerfully. Leaving slack in doesn't really help as you just get creases and wrinkles.

Is there a lighter weight covering option?
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:14 PM
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There is always lighter weight covering options but I don't want to use a monokote type product. the stab is really the only lightweight structure that I have to cover, everything else has enough ribs an structure to it to keep it from twisting on me, I'll try it again an just not put so much heat to it when I draw it up tight an see if that don't work better.
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