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Wing Dragon/Wing Dragon 4/Begin-Air Series Planes Tips & Tricks

Old 04-12-2017, 02:41 AM
  #151  
omster
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Just got an old Wing Dragon from my bro - well, at least I think it's a Wing Dragon, there's no instructions and the stickers don't match any that I've seen Also, the body and wings are all white. It does have ailerons, an open canopy, and landing gear without the wheel covers. Looks exactly like the WD 4, but in white. Otherwise, it seems to have all the same parts. Anyhow, I thought this bird might be a good candidate for a head tracking pan/tilt FPV setup? I do have a couple of questions though...

Is the boom supposed to be screwed in? I can see holes in the boom, and what looks like hole patterns in the body, but the boom stops short from reaching it by an inch or so... it looks like there may be some extra plastic that needs to be cut out or shaved that's preventing it from going all the way in? The elevator and rudder linkages are falling an inch or so short, so made me wonder if I've got the boom in all the way correctly.

The wings in this "kit" come separate, along with the thin plastic covering to prevent rubber band dings. Do you glue the wing halves together, or just use the wood spar to join, or both? What's recommended for this? (again, no instruction manual)

Would an E-Flite Park 400 920kv work well for this? My plan is to use a 3S 1300mAh 30-40C lipo. If so, what prop should I be using on it? I have a 7x3.8 prop and ordered a couple of 7x6 props. How many watts would be recommended for good power (to say, get out of trouble quickly)?

Any and all input would be appreciated!

TIA,
~O\m/
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Old 04-12-2017, 12:41 PM
  #152  
quorneng
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omster
Any chance of some pictures?
i would strongly suggest you glue the wings together including gluing the 'wood bit' in as well. This is actually one of the weaker points in the Wing Dragon design, particularly if you are going to carry any additional weight from FPV gear.

The boom is indeed 'secured' by those two small screws. They only stop the boom pulling out or rotating, but it is a good tight fit. On mine I don't use the screws as it allows some 'give' in a crash which over the years is has certainly had to!

The power is going to depend on the motor, battery and speed controller combination that is fitted.
950 kV is much too low for a 7" prop. I use a 1500 kV Emax 2812 with a 1500 mAh 3s. It draws 17A which gives 170W.

The basic fuselage design is restricted to a 7" prop which limits the maximum power that can be used. There are modifications possible to mount the motor higher to allow bigger props.

I went down the route of reducing weight (lighter wing and smaller servos) rather than increasing power such that it now posses a remarkable performance (and duration) still with a 7x6 prop.
It started out looking like this.
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It now looks like this
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Yes it now has flaps as well but is still lighter than the original and still flies regularly.
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Old 04-12-2017, 09:09 PM
  #153  
omster
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quorneng - thanks for your response!

I attached a picture of the body and landing gear - is it a Wing Dragon?

Okay, will definitely glue the wing halves together along with the wood spar! My other pan/tilt FPV cam was under 15 grams, but will probably also put HD video on it as well if possible.

So it looks I need to clear out the plastic that's preventing the boom from going in all the way. I'm glad that's the problem, because I don't have any lengthier linkages on hand! I included a picture where you can see the boom in the body - this is how far it goes in before stopping.

So 920kv is too low ... was hoping I could finally put the Park 400 to some good use. I'll see if I have anything in the ~1500 range, otherwise will place an order.

I like the depron wing idea - what kind of flight times were you getting before the mod? And after?

Any other must-do mods Wing Dragon owners are doing?

Thanks!
~Om
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Old 04-12-2017, 11:43 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by quorneng View Post
omster
The power is going to depend on the motor, battery and speed controller combination that is fitted.
950 kV is much too low for a 7" prop. I use a 1500 kV Emax 2812 with a 1500 mAh 3s. It draws 17A which gives 170W.

The basic fuselage design is restricted to a 7" prop which limits the maximum power that can be used. There are modifications possible to mount the motor higher to allow bigger props.
I have a couple of these motors - it's a higher kV rating, how do you think it would do with their suggested props?
http://graysonhobby.com/supersonic-2...mbo-basic.html
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Old 04-13-2017, 12:49 AM
  #155  
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The boom does indeed go to that point or rather slightly beyond as there should be two small holes at the end of the boom for the screws to screw into.

That 2200 kV motor should do fine with a 7x4. A 7x6 might overload it.

In its current form my much modified Wing Dragon can manage 30 minutes cruising gently or as long as you like if there are thermals about! This comes down to about 8 or 9 minutes if you fly hard.

In its original form it had a heavy brushed motor and equally heavy 9.6V NiMh 1000mAh battery so its flight time and performance was very modest in comparison - never more than 5 minutes.

The Wing dragon configuration really suits my rough flying field with its long grass so I have scratch built some variations.
Bigger at 60" span.
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Cruise endurance of an hour and can belly take off as well.
A push/pull twin with big two section flaps.
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Do you know the likely weight of your FPV gear?
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Old 04-16-2017, 02:30 AM
  #156  
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Thanks for your guidance - my Emax 2812 came in today, 7x6 props yesterday I have a new 18A esc I was planning on using, hopefully that'll be okay?

Not sure on the FPV gear weight... will be using 9g digital servos for pan/tilt on a custom 3D printed design, just not sure if I'll be using a separate HD camera. I plan on printing a custom tray for this and the vtx.
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Old 04-16-2017, 01:59 PM
  #157  
quorneng
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omster
An 18A ESC will be running pretty close to its limit as a 2812 with a 7x6 can draw a good 15A.
Some manufacturers can be a bit 'optimistic' on the capabilities of their electronics so it is advisable, particularly when carrying expensive FPV gear, to allow a 50% ESC 'headroom'.
I use a 30A ESC on my 2812 with its 7x6 and 3s.
You need to consider cooling for the ESC. It produces quite a bit of heat and like all electronics it is heat sensitive. Some have even fitted the ESC outside the fuselage to ensure it gets plenty of cooling.
Your ESC may have temperature shut down protection (you will still have power for the radio and servos) but on the other hand it may just fail - permanently!

You will need to watch the weight of the FPV gear so do fly your Wing Dragon first without it to give yourself an idea of its 'bare' performance.
You will then be able to judge how much of its performance the weight (and drag) of the FPV gear takes away. Extra weight requires a higher flying speed, hence extra power, which leaves that much less 'spare' available to climb.
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Old 04-21-2017, 04:15 PM
  #158  
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Okay, thanks - not going to use the new 18A ESC... will swap out with a Castle Phoenix 25A.

Still trying to figure out placement of electronics and Rx. Do most people run servo extensions on the rudder & aileron and put the Rx under the wing, or run aileron extensions and put the Rx more forward?
I have a FrSky S8R w/3 axis stabilizer I'm planning on using - I think it'd be easiest to mount under wing in the fuselage somewhere (has to be flat) where I can get to it easily.
This is a slow build for me - I'm totally new to FrSky, just got my Q X7 two days ago and trying to learn everything, adding a 3 axis stabilized rx into the mix didn't make it any easier! Anyway, I think I've got it now - and I was able to figure out how to add flaperons (a lot different than my DX9!).
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:30 PM
  #159  
quorneng
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omster
It is recommended that a 'stab' rx is not only mounted level (and the right way round) but close to the CofG to achieve the best the roll, pitch and yaw sensing. Not so easy to do in a Wing Dragon unless you can construct a suitable flat rigid floor in the fuselage and at the same time keeping the rx aerial away from the servos and those long servo rods.

In my Wing Dragon I cheated a bit and mounted the micro elevator servo in the tail (with a very long extension lead) and did away with a rudder altogether, so no servo rods thus the fuselage has plenty of room with only the LiPo (right in the nose) and the ESC and rx on either side wall, each held with Velcro pads but then it is not a 'stab' rx!
I have only used stab rxs in 'own design' builds where I can arrange both a suitable location and a level rigid mounting.
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