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Twin Otter build

Old 06-07-2013, 11:53 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by BradT View Post
Joe, and any other interested readers, Sam and Beverly now have the Chilliwack fly-in photos up on their web page: www.teamtracon.com

Enjoy!

Brad.
Great Pics!

Thanks
Jimmy
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:45 PM
  #77  
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Well summer has slowed me a bit but i still got the top sheeted and the round formers on the bottom and all straight so my 1/16 sheeting goes on smooth. My work bench gets messy fast but because iam taking pictures of it i try to clean up some of my mess . lol The company i work for is trying to drag me into the 2013 by making me throw my old phone out . They got me a i-phone 2 days ago , and its going to take time getting use to a touch screen but it looks like it takes good pictures. joe
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:26 PM
  #78  
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Joe,

Looking good! I know what you mean about the workbench getting messy. I feel your pain it's a constant struggle to keep the work space open when you're in a fit of building

By the way what is the size of this bad boy? I looked back in your thread, and can't find any specs ...I could just be missing them

Have fun!

Forge
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:28 PM
  #79  
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Lookin' mighty fine, Joe. Have you chosen a colour scheme yet? There are some beauties out there.

Several years ago, the SAR team from Comox put on a STOL display with one of their Twin Otters at the Canada Day airshow in Langley, near here, and it has an incredibly short rog and landing distance. As the plane sat on the numbers at the end of the runway, with brakes on, full flaps, and full throttle, the announcer started a countdown, the pilot released the brakes, and by the count of 4, it was airborne, a total distance of maybe 300'. After several very low and slow passes, it came in with full flaps, hit the numbers, and came to a full stop in the same 4-count and 300'. From the instant the wheels touched, the brakes were on full, and the props in full reverse thrust, simply amazing.
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:26 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Forge View Post
Joe,

Looking good! I know what you mean about the workbench getting messy. I feel your pain it's a constant struggle to keep the work space open when you're in a fit of building

By the way what is the size of this bad boy? I looked back in your thread, and can't find any specs ...I could just be missing them

Have fun!

Forge
I always go for the bigger Ivans plane, i'am a glutten for punishment i guess so its his 600 size twin otter with a 84 inch wingspan and the fuse with rudder is over 5 ft. Hi Brad ,I have a friend here that flew one for many years but i still have not picked out a plane to model this one after. I will start to get crazy looking for a good one when i'm half way done with the wing. I work better under preasure. lol My son is out of school now for the summer and between running him around and honey dues around here i get a half hour or so here and there to build. but i will keep pluging away till iam done. joe
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:42 PM
  #81  
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Alright guys and girls i got a little time in this week and got the top totaly done and most of the bottom . I stopped short of the nose section and made up a balsa block that will be the round nose up front ,why did i make one you might ask ? Because i had a pretty good size block aready that was 2x3 inches and 16 inches long and was not going to buy another 8 dollar piece to use. I got the landing gear block in and will start bending wire for the rear plus i have found a nice scale nose wheel with a working shock to give it some class and help with a rough landing or 20 .The servo rails are in but will i hold off putting my nirods in till i get the rudder and elev mounted where they go. I will sheet the rest of the bottom and round that off some then glue the big block i made to the lower half of the fuse the hatch front has dowl rods that go into the back side of the nose block . Most times i take my builds in the back yard and carve and sand big blocks to get some fresh air and make a big blsa mess outside. Ivan called for the rear landing gear plate to be made from 1/8 inch ply and so far this is the only change from his plans i have made using a 1/4 piece of ply so now i need to make the gear a 1/8 less tall but it won't go anywhere. Btw its time for me to clean the work bench off again and bring out the foam pads i use to set the fuse on ,it cuts down on dings and dents that i will haveto fix later . For you new builders that come across this thread i use tightbond 3 on every thing except the landing gear plates and motor mounts plus wing bolting blocks. Tightbond 3 is the best and it sands easy and never gets brittle like ca . CA might be faster in the beginning but you will eat that saved time up trying to get a smooth finish later and then some. Man i was a long winded today.lmao joe
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:51 PM
  #82  
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Looking GOOD!
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:01 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by riverrat View Post
Looking GOOD!
Thanks riverrat i wish i had gotten more done by now but my ten year old son has his own plans for fun this summer and iam not going to rain on his plans by staying home so i can build . joe
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:35 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Thanks riverrat i wish i had gotten more done by now but my ten year old son has his own plans for fun this summer and iam not going to rain on his plans by staying home so i can build . joe

Joe glad to read this post. They grow up to darn fast enjoy him while you can. Before you know it you will be replaced by girls and cars. Boy those where great days as I recall.

Your build is taking shape now, and looking good. You can't beat the titebond for building I got away from that CA. Just like you said sanding a CA joint is a pain. Seems you can't get rid of it to make a smooth joint. First balsa build I did with it you can see every joint on the sheeting under the covering. Thought it was great while I used it sure could build fast. Learned fast isn't everything.
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:46 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by gramps2161 View Post
Joe glad to read this post. They grow up to darn fast enjoy him while you can. Before you know it you will be replaced by girls and cars. Boy those where great days as I recall.

Your build is taking shape now, and looking good. You can't beat the titebond for building I got away from that CA. Just like you said sanding a CA joint is a pain. Seems you can't get rid of it to make a smooth joint. First balsa build I did with it you can see every joint on the sheeting under the covering. Thought it was great while I used it sure could build fast. Learned fast isn't everything.
I had no father growing up for a long time then a step dad so i want him to have the things i missed . This new tightbond 3 dfries faster and is toataly water proof so i like it alot. I have sinned and used a drop of ca but its only to hold stuff still till the Tightbond dries and no where that i will be sanding or to build a jig fast . The worst thing i have ever seen was a new builder using thin ca on a laser cut kit and just pumping the thin glue in the cracks till it covered most of the fuse and his hands also . He was asking how to get it out and off of the fuse and i told him just to cut another fuse or sand it lightly and cover it fast. I have seen other people here recomend ca to build a kit to the new builder and i cringe when i see it. I have used less than a 1/8 of the new bottle of tightbond and will probly only use 1/4 for the whole build . Try buying ca for this big of a build and you could go broke.
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:55 AM
  #86  
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Joe sounds like you where looking in my window watching me CA my first build.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:07 AM
  #87  
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Ha Ha Gramps i get a kick out of you when you drop by ,you are a straight shooter like me and those are hard to find these days. Iam going to let you all on to my secret ,while sheeting the top rear i did not suport the bottom realy well by building a ramp under it so when i was sheeting it it got pushed down a bit putting a curve on the bottom. I sanded the rails on the bottom getting most of it out before puting the curved formers on them and the top i sanded each side of the bow so now you cant see it on top or bottom. I keep forgetting its a Ivans plane and you have to suport every thing or it gets out of whack fast. Now i will have to double check my incidence of the elev because of the curve down but i want to show thats things happen and it can be fixed by not freaking out. Next time its getting a solid straight board under the fuse so nothing will push it down. They call the wings Ivans spagetti because how they flop around before sheeting and are very prone to breaking things. joe
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:40 PM
  #88  
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Default Titebond?

Joe

What's the new Titebond called?

Skysharkster turned me on to the
original some yrs. ago, & that's all
I have used. Just bought a new bottle.
But if they have one that dries faster
& is just as good, I want to try it!

Regards
Jimmy
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:50 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by riverrat View Post
Joe

What's the new Titebond called?

Skysharkster turned me on to the
original some yrs. ago, & that's all
I have used. Just bought a new bottle.
But if they have one that dries faster
& is just as good, I want to try it!

Regards
Jimmy
Its tightbond 3 ,from what i understand tightbond 1 and 2 were semi waterproof but this new 3 is fully water proof . I like this stuff very much and will stock up on 6 or 7 bottles just in case they mess with it again with number 4 . joe
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:55 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Its tightbond 3
This is a hot topic with my fellow luthiers. Most of them will swear that the original (red label) is the best. They say that #3 tends to "creep" over time, so an instrument made with it will just slide apart after a while, I guess... Don't know whether to believe this or not, but in order to avoid ridicule I use the original stuff.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:09 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by dgjessing View Post
This is a hot topic with my fellow luthiers. Most of them will swear that the original (red label) is the best. They say that #3 tends to "creep" over time, so an instrument made with it will just slide apart after a while, I guess... Don't know whether to believe this or not, but in order to avoid ridicule I use the original stuff.
I just pulled appart the block i was putting together for the nose because i wanted them in a different order and all the wood stuck to well and i had to tear balsa loose not the glue joint. I have not seen anything on it in the threads but i take most of guy's glue woes with a grain of salt unless they are trying to sand CA .lmao We will see if this one holds together but i dont think tightbond would put out a glue and not test it first. joe
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:24 AM
  #92  
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Ok back to building a little ,i bent up the landing gear to day and soldered them together with some copper wire . I bought a old school cast iron wire bender 30 years ago and will never wear it out .It came with two handles and two different blocks and pins in them for reg wire up to a 1/8 then the bigger stuff up to a 1/4 . You clamp the blocks in a vice and bend away. I have seen a couple plastic ones they sell now for bending wire and all i can say is what were they thinking. lol I will have to tweek these to line up right before straping them down but they will never break because i used some heavy wire .The solder joints will get covered up with a fairing i will build for them later . joe
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:35 AM
  #93  
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About time you got back to this build! I've been sitting here since your last post waiting for a update.
I thought about buying one of those wire benders, but they look cheap and easy to break. I measure and and bend with the vise. I make a template on paper to check my bends. Hate to see my plane leaning to one side cause I bent one side short.

If this lousy weather keeps up I am going to have to start building myself. Rain rain and wind, been so humid up here the birds just spread there wings and walk across the sky. That's some thick air.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:41 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by gramps2161 View Post
About time you got back to this build! I've been sitting here since your last post waiting for a update.
I thought about buying one of those wire benders, but they look cheap and easy to break. I measure and and bend with the vise. I make a template on paper to check my bends. Hate to see my plane leaning to one side cause I bent one side short.

If this lousy weather keeps up I am going to have to start building myself. Rain rain and wind, been so humid up here the birds just spread there wings and walk across the sky. That's some thick air.
I will take some pictures of mine you could build one out of steel real easy . Yea its cool and windy here for a couple days but it was hot and muggy for a while and still windy before this. I feal bad for the people in Aizona and the loss of firemen and the fires there. I hope this goofy weather gets better soon . joe
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:47 AM
  #95  
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That was tragedy in Arizona I shudder to think about there last minutes before it swept over them.

If you have the time Joe post up a pic. By the way I am a grandpa again baby boy 8 lbs 22 3/4 inches this past sat. my daughters second child.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:57 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by gramps2161 View Post
That was tragedy in Arizona I shudder to think about there last minutes before it swept over them.

If you have the time Joe post up a pic. By the way I am a grandpa again baby boy 8 lbs 22 3/4 inches this past sat. my daughters second child.
Wow thats a big boy ,i hope he turns out to be a great flyer and builder for ya gramps . My kids are like rabbits and i have 13 grandkids already plus my son who is 10 .lol BTW i looked through my junk and found some hanger 9 low bounce light weight rear wheels at 3 1/2and the nose wheel was 2 3/4 ,the 1/8 in piano wire was 90 cents for a 3 ft piece and thinner stuff for the rear braces was 40 cents a piece . Its nice to have 40 years of junk when building . joe

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Old 07-03-2013, 03:36 AM
  #97  
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Hey Joe, good to see you progressing. I have not tried that technique of wrapping the gear with copper wire and soldering. I will try that sometime for sure. Will that be strong enough for a big bird like the otter? I assume it's only for taxiing as you will be landing on water... :-)

By the way, thanks for the plans for the Drake. I would probably need to go smaller, as the local pond is not that big. I guess, I could scale it down....

And Gramps, huge congrats on the new grandchild! I have a few years to go, I think, but I truly love being a dad. And Joe, god bless you, 13 grandchildren... wow

Peace. I wish you all a wonderful 4th of July celebration.

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Old 07-03-2013, 03:46 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Forge View Post
Hey Joe, good to see you progressing. I have not tried that technique of wrapping the gear with copper wire and soldering. I will try that sometime for sure. Will that be strong enough for a big bird like the otter? I assume it's only for taxiing as you will be landing on water... :-)

By the way, thanks for the plans for the Drake. I would probably need to go smaller, as the local pond is not that big. I guess, I could scale it down....

And Gramps, huge congrats on the new grandchild! I have a few years to go, I think, but I truly love being a dad. And Joe, god bless you, 13 grandchildren... wow

Peace. I wish you all a wonderful 4th of July celebration.

Forge
I am glad to hear from you Forge i know you are still on a high after building that sweet looking ww-1 plane and flying it. The otter will come in at 6 pounds with batterys so its light and Ivan said not to go bigger on the gear . I did change the mounting plate from 1/8 to 1/4 so the mounting strap screws have something more to bite into. I try not to add to much extra when building from Ivans plans ,he desighns plans and planes that work fine when kept light . joe
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:55 AM
  #99  
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...wow 6 lbs. at 84 inch wingspan... man that seems light to me. very nice I will be monitoring your build progress. Good luck.

And, I am still on a bit of a high from my last build. ...But itching to build now. I actually order a new short kit of a WWII Be12. ...early British fighter. I will post it up once I start.

Be well. Have a great night.

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Old 07-03-2013, 05:56 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Forge View Post
...wow 6 lbs. at 84 inch wingspan... man that seems light to me. very nice I will be monitoring your build progress. Good luck.

And, I am still on a bit of a high from my last build. ...But itching to build now. I actually order a new short kit of a WWII Be12. ...early British fighter. I will post it up once I start.

Be well. Have a great night.

Forge
Iam happy to see you itching to start another build ,i do the same thing when i look at a empty work bench . You need to try a Ivans plane Forge it will change the way you build forever .My 99 in wingspan solent came in at 8 pounds with batterys and Ivans was 7 pounds with c size nicads for power but i used some heavy sheeting that i had gotten free and i beefed up a couple areas where others had built one and failed in front and rear of the wing in the fuse . Iam trying to not change to much on this one but i'am beefing up the fuse around the landing gear block and in front for the nose wheel ,i will see how the wing screw holding blocks look when i get to that section. The Be-12 sound interesting so pm me a link when you start yours Forge would like to watch another one of your builds . joe
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