#35 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> DJAerotech Chrysalis 2m Electric Sailplane - Page 4 - WattFlyer RC Electric Flight Forums - Discuss radio control eflight

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#35 Model Airplane Building Clinic >> DJAerotech Chrysalis 2m Electric Sailplane

Old 10-19-2012, 03:56 AM
  #76  
Stevephoon
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Hi Randy.

Your Chrysalis looks great! It seems that you have hit the weight that I'm shooting for... A couple of questions for you... I see that your putting the battery up front. Is that the only way you could get it to balance? Then one word of caution. I think you will have too much prop for your motor. The Emax GT2815/05 is a 1500 kv motor and HeadsUpRc doesn't recommend anything bigger than a 9 in prop when using a 3S battery. Please check your power and current readings....

Also, Wattflyer does not let you post pictures until you have posted at least 3 times. AND it does not like large pictures. I usually use 800x600 picts. So scale back and try again.


Steve

And ... Gooooooo TIGERS!

Last edited by Stevephoon; 10-19-2012 at 04:23 AM.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:53 AM
  #77  
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I just couldn't help myself....sorry Randy.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joNIzrXiiCA[/media]
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:50 PM
  #78  
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K8zfj
Very nice plane guy ,I like your color combo !
George
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:10 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Hi Randy.

Your Chrysalis looks great! It seems that you have hit the weight that I'm shooting for... A couple of questions for you... I see that your putting the battery up front. Is that the only way you could get it to balance? Then one word of caution. I think you will have too much prop for your motor. The Emax GT2815/05 is a 1500 kv motor and HeadsUpRc doesn't recommend anything bigger than a 9 in prop when using a 3S battery. Please check your power and current readings....

Also, Wattflyer does not let you post pictures until you have posted at least 3 times. AND it does not like large pictures. I usually use 800x600 picts. So scale back and try again.


Steve

And ... Gooooooo TIGERS!
got lucky on weight; i always wanted battery under hatch, so just planned on it being that way, and put servos to rear.

current setup yields 33A, 270 W at full throttle

regards,
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:08 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by k8zfj View Post
got lucky on weight; i always wanted battery under hatch, so just planned on it being that way, and put servos to rear.

I do understand that it would be easiest to swap the battery out if it was in the front hatch area... I just want a to be able to use a large range of batteries. Since I don't really know what I am doing with gliders, I thought having the batt near the CG would be the way to go....

Originally Posted by k8zfj View Post
current setup yields 33A, 270 W at full throttle

regards,
Ahh, not a 3S lipo battery?? 2S maybe ??
I was thinking about going 2S with a much larger prop as well, but since I already have a 10x6 and a 11x6 folding prop which should be good at 3S with my motor..... Maybe next summer I'll try.


It seems that yours is about where I am targeting mine at. Please post some flight updates as you go...

Steve
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:19 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post

Ahh, not a 3S lipo battery?? 2S maybe ??

Steve
No, its a 3s. with the 1500mah pack it needs to be moved forward a bit to balance; the 2200 pack is right up against F1 to balance.

I do plan to try a 2s, 1800 pack after i know it flies, ok

remember that we only need the motor running to get up to 200m for ales events, after that its all soaring

rgds, randy
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:45 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by k8zfj View Post
No, its a 3s.
Sorry for all of the questions but... 33 Amps and 270 Watts means you're at 8.18 volts.... I must be missing something. (Like usual)

Are you using this motor?
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ushless/Detail

Steve
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:44 AM
  #83  
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Steve, you have inspired me with this thread. Lots of good info, have really enjoyed it. So I broke down and finally ordered mine about 15 minutes ago.
Hopefully will have it soon.

Will be using a eflite .480 for power.
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:46 AM
  #84  
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Vicrider,
I'm glad to hear it. I always like to see people buying quality products that are created locally. Anyway, you're likely to finish before me at the rate I'm going. This weekend is a busy one and I may not get any building in. It should be fun though, tomorrow's a 30 year reunion for my college concert band which toured in China. (Yes I'm a trumpet playing band geek as well.)

Don't hesitate to ask any questions, and best of luck with yours! Please share your progress with us as well.

Steve

Last edited by Stevephoon; 10-20-2012 at 05:04 AM. Reason: opps, it's been 30 years already
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:27 AM
  #85  
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I epoxy/fiberglassed the required inside joints and the inside of the nose extention. Each time gets a little neater, but I'm still messy and seem to catch the end strings no matter what. I'll try the required outside places tomorrow when the inside is good and dry. The pieces underneath the wing hold down block were a bear to put on... I'm still not sure they are flat, but hey'll have to do. The nose pieces were easier since it's a straight shot.

Steve
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:56 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Sorry for all of the questions but... 33 Amps and 270 Watts means you're at 8.18 volts.... I must be missing something. (Like usual)

Are you using this motor?
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ushless/Detail

Steve
Steve,

thats what the inline watt meter is measuring, and yes....that motor.
'still havent had chance to try it out yet

Randy
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:30 PM
  #87  
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'finally got out to try the chrysalis. wind was about 6-8 mph from NE, overcast and starting to get chilly ( 58 F )
Following a half dozen hand tosses, she was powered up to several hundred ft for more trimming.

This plane is a joy to fly, landings with spoiler to elevator mix, and it'll drop at your feet. Hopefully we'll still get a few warmer days before the real cold stuff arrives.

Enjoy your build,
Randy
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:27 AM
  #88  
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Congrats Randy! That's just what I want to hear! I also looked a little closer at the picts of yours.. Does yours have the 3 piece wing option? If so, any thoughts and pointers on that? I was planning on building the 3 piece wing myself.

Steve
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:59 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Congrats Randy! That's just what I want to hear! I also looked a little closer at the picts of yours.. Does yours have the 3 piece wing option? If so, any thoughts and pointers on that? I was planning on building the 3 piece wing myself.

Steve
Yes, it's a 3 pc wing. I had trouble getting joiners to line up properly , but eventually got it right. Also tack glued the cf joiners into center panel so I wouldn't lose them.

Had a bit of vibration today, at medium throttle setting, and need to figure out what cause may be.

U r gonna luv this one. Normally I wouldn't take a new model up on a windy day, but had no trouble at all

Regards
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:46 PM
  #90  
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I bet the vibration was during a steep climb. I sometimes get one and use it as a signal to ease off on the climb. I think it comes from the folding prop.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:05 PM
  #91  
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You might want to check your spoylers and ailarons for being a tad loos fiting
or they may have to much gap to the wing surface ?!?
I have had that cause a couple of planes to sing like a harp on clime or dives .
Just a thought guy .
George
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:37 PM
  #92  
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Re. vibration on climb

'removed the motor and noticed while doing so , that two of the 3mm screws were probably over tightened and managed to pretty much go right thru the firewall.

i saturated the fire wall and balsa mounted in front of it ( to reduce gap between spinner & fuse ) with thin CA. Next was a trip to local hardware store for some 3mm x 10mm length screws and washers. Reinstalled motor & took it out yesterday afternoon.

No vibration at all, and she still flies & lands like a dream, providing the pilot remembers to put all of the tx switches in right place!
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:46 PM
  #93  
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Great to hear Randy,

I had already noticed that the screws connecting the motor to the mount were digging into the firewall ply on mine too. I'll plan on making sure that mine is strengthened as well. I was hoping that just soaking with thin CA will be enough. Maybe you can double check yours after a month or so of flying to make sure nothing else is working loose or breaking down.

Steve
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:26 PM
  #94  
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A washer under each screw head can help this considerably. Do not overtighten. Use some low-strength Loctite.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:04 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Don Stackhouse View Post
A washer under each screw head can help this considerably. Do not overtighten. Use some low-strength Loctite.
Don, that sounds like a good idea. I think the real issue is the shape of the screw. It's designed to mount flush with the X-Mount and is not flat... So either a small washer or a different screw is needed.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:11 PM
  #96  
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I have finally finished the initial fiberglass/epoxy reinforcements. I was worried about the nose the most and it’s the part that came out the best. The method that has worked the best for me is exactly what is on the instructions. Apply the epoxy on the fiberglass while it’s on a piece of wax paper on your work bench. Work the epoxy into the tape, then squeegee it off. The secrete for me is to get as much off as possible. Pick up a corner of the tape with a spare bit of balsa stick and transfer it to the plane. Squeegee it down and again and remove any excess epoxy.

I have also started on the tail. The tail is made of a mix of stock and laser cut parts. I have also cut out the lightning holes. (Not very well unfortunately.) I clamped both sides together then cut out the centers with a dremel to start with, then some small files and sandpaper. The parts that are supposed to be straight are not perfectly straight, but it may have t do. I have also did an initial tack together of the tail feathers with thin CA per the instructions. The next part is more fiberglassing and then mounting the tail to the fuselage. One thing I have not made my mind up about is how to mount the control horns and where to route the pushrods out of the fuselage. I’d like the pushrods to just come out of the hole in the rear. I’ll be able to experiment a little before the tail is attached.

Steve
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:25 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Don Stackhouse View Post
In terms of stability and handling qualities, the two tail types are essentially identical (as they should be, if the designer did their homework properly, and yes, I have built and flown both, obviously). There is no problem with control interaction if the controls are set up properly. The V is a little lighter, very slightly less drag overall, and does a better job of staying out of trouble on landings.
Another advantage of the V-tail is it keeps the surfaces out of the turbulence ceated by the main wing. Now whether this is as important at the slow speeds of a model sailplane as it is on a full scale bird I don't know. The air isn't scaled down.

Re: epoxy allergies, are they triggered by skin contact/absorbtion only, or should we be wary of the fumes as well. Perhaps a seperate thread on the various modeling chemicals we use and their respective hazards/precautions should be stuck to the top of some of these forums - not everyone is going to read this one thread.

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Old 10-27-2012, 07:17 PM
  #98  
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There are two kinds of wake to consider. There is a thin sheet of air, roughly the thickness of the wing itself, representing the wing's boundary layer and immediately surrounding air. That's thin, and generally misses the horizontal tail, but if the tail is passing through it, there can be some interesting effects.

OTOH, there's the downwash field, which is HUGE, roughly one wingspan in height. The tail will almost certainly be fully immersed in that, regardless of tail type (see attached pic).

As far as allergies, ANY means of exposure can sensitize the tissue, and once sensitized, any means of exposure can trigger an allergic reaction. For example, you could get your hands sensitized through contact. Once sensitized, you could enter a room (even with gloves on) with epoxy fumes in the air, which could be absorbed by your lungs and then travel through your bloodstream to your (gloved) hands, triggering an allergic response.

I have seen cases of initial sensitization from fumes collecting under the chin and in front of the neck (areas that tend to have stagnant airflow) during layup work. Once sensitized, answering a phone that was touched hours earlier by someone with epoxy on their hands can result in the chemicals entering through the skin of the hands, then traveling through the bloodstream to the neck and chin, where they trigger an allergic response.

The tissues get sensitized by cumulative exposure, by whatever means. ow does not matter, only that the tissues are exposed to the chemicals. Once sensitized, the allergic response can be triggered by ANY means of exposure. The chemicals are there, and the immune system responds, it does not matter at all how the chemicals got there.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:18 AM
  #99  
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Thats kinda scarey to think about but doe's it have a bearing on the controls of the plane , or is it changed by how large they are or how small they are built ?
Just wondering guy ?
George
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:21 AM
  #100  
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My kit came in on Friday. I did get into it a little bit. I started on the wing. Only thing of note is that the notches cut out on the trailing edge for the ribs do not match the plans. I read about this on another thread, so I wasn't surprised and knew ahead of time to ignore the plans and use the laser cut shear webs before removing them from there tree to set the spacing, they match the notches in the trailing edge. the instructions mention the use of the shear webs for spacing.

Other then that what little I have done has gone together well.
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