SUPER Quick Delta Scratch Build
11-09-2010, 03:56 AM
#851
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Originally Posted by mclarkson
I'm planning on working one of these up. I've gone thru the threads and pieced together what I think are all the final dimensions. I've laid it out to take maximum advantage of factory-cut straight edges. If anyone sees anything missing or wrong, please let me know.
Where did the center of gravity finally end up?
dont forget to add the CF tube for strength hope that helps, Chellie
11-09-2010, 04:20 AM
#852
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Chellie. Thanks!
Have you changed the design since the original pictures were posted? That stab has got to be at least 13" in the photos. Not that I'm disputing you on your design, understand; just trying to match up my measurements from the photos. 8" would only bring it to the front of the squared-off at the rear of the wing.
Have you changed the design since the original pictures were posted? That stab has got to be at least 13" in the photos. Not that I'm disputing you on your design, understand; just trying to match up my measurements from the photos. 8" would only bring it to the front of the squared-off at the rear of the wing.
11-09-2010, 04:37 AM
#853
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Originally Posted by mclarkson
Chellie. Thanks!
Have you changed the design since the original pictures were posted? That stab has got to be at least 13" in the photos. Not that I'm disputing you on your design, understand; just trying to match up my measurements from the photos. 8" would only bring it to the front of the squared-off at the rear of the wing.
Have you changed the design since the original pictures were posted? That stab has got to be at least 13" in the photos. Not that I'm disputing you on your design, understand; just trying to match up my measurements from the photos. 8" would only bring it to the front of the squared-off at the rear of the wing.
That, Looks, About, Right, LOL if was found later that the longer thin stab towards the front was not needed and only got in the way of the lipo and CG adjustment, so the rudder rear section was used, your delta is looking great. BTW with a 7x6 prop, they Haul Buns 
11-09-2010, 05:06 AM
#855
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Originally Posted by mclarkson
So the angle stays the same, but you just chop off the front about where that unlabeled down arrow is? Or slope down at a sharper angle?
what ever looks good to you, these measurements are only a starting point, and a basic size, be creative 
take care and have fun, Chellie
11-09-2010, 05:31 AM
#856
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Ha-ha! I've updated my drawings, just to spite you.
"Whatever looks right" works better when you've built 100 planes. My mom is the same way with cooking.
ME: Mom, how much salt do you put in?
MOM: Put some in until it tastes like it's got enough salt.
ME: Mom, how much flour do I need?
MOM: Just add flour until it looks right.
"Whatever looks right" works better when you've built 100 planes. My mom is the same way with cooking.
ME: Mom, how much salt do you put in?
MOM: Put some in until it tastes like it's got enough salt.
ME: Mom, how much flour do I need?
MOM: Just add flour until it looks right.
11-09-2010, 05:49 AM
#857
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Originally Posted by mclarkson
Ha-ha! I've updated my drawings, just to spite you.
"Whatever looks right" works better when you've built 100 planes. My mom is the same way with cooking.
ME: Mom, how much salt do you put in?
MOM: Put some in until it tastes like it's got enough salt.
ME: Mom, how much flour do I need?
MOM: Just add flour until it looks right.
"Whatever looks right" works better when you've built 100 planes. My mom is the same way with cooking.
ME: Mom, how much salt do you put in?
MOM: Put some in until it tastes like it's got enough salt.
ME: Mom, how much flour do I need?
MOM: Just add flour until it looks right.
See, Now your already an Aircraft Designer 
Take care and have fun, Chellie
11-10-2010, 06:23 AM
#859
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Originally Posted by mclarkson
I'm planning on putting an EMAX CF2805 motor on this, along with 4G servos and a 30a ESC (cuz that's what I have.) How small a battery can I get away with?
whats the KV on your motor
1600 or 2840 if its the 1600kv your in luck, if its the 2840kv motor, you might not have enough thrust, and it will be a Lawn dart, I need to know what the kv on the motor is, before i can recomend a lipo and prop.http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=762172
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&expIds=...3eeabb4c23868d
11-10-2010, 09:22 AM
#860
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Hi, Chellie.
Headsup says: the Emax CF2805 is a 0.9 ounce, 2800KV direct drive outrunner.
Jeff recommended a 6x4 prop with it (tho that was for a slightly different project.) Since that was a 24" wing, I was hoping the same setup might work for this plane.
Headsup says: the Emax CF2805 is a 0.9 ounce, 2800KV direct drive outrunner.
Jeff recommended a 6x4 prop with it (tho that was for a slightly different project.) Since that was a 24" wing, I was hoping the same setup might work for this plane.
11-10-2010, 09:35 AM
#861
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if its the 2800kv motor it wont work, you cant turn a big enough prop with it to get any thrust. and this delta basicly flies on thrust rather than lift. it requires 20 oz of thrust. get the 2812 motor from heads up rc, and you will be fine. also a 1000 to 1300mah 3 cell lipo is what is needed, also a prop saver, a 6x4 or 7x4 sf prop will work the best.
Oct 25, 2007, 10:42 AM #2 Dr Kiwi
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5"-6" sounds okay for small motors of ~1600Kv... I doubt you could use more than a 3"-4" prop on a small 2840Kv.
If the motors are bigger, then the rules change.
What is the size/weight of those motors? E-max has changed nomenclature and some of the small ones I tested as 22xx are now labeled as 28xx.
Oct 25, 2007, 10:42 AM #2 Dr Kiwi Registered User
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5"-6" sounds okay for small motors of ~1600Kv... I doubt you could use more than a 3"-4" prop on a small 2840Kv.
If the motors are bigger, then the rules change.
What is the size/weight of those motors? E-max has changed nomenclature and some of the small ones I tested as 22xx are now labeled as 28xx.
11-10-2010, 09:44 AM
#863
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Originally Posted by mclarkson
Now I need to either
A) buy a new motor etc.
B) find a new project to consume my leftover parts.
p.s. Don't you ever sleep?
get a new motor, you will be able to do more with a lower KV motor, as you can turn a bigger prop for more thrust, the 2800kv motor is going to limit what you can build,
05-17-2011, 09:22 PM
#865
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Posts: 66
Originally Posted by CHELLIE
Hi Everyone I got a little more done, It will be a ARF before I go to bed tonight or this morning, here is what was done so far, I taped the elevators on to the body, I used a New Tape from Scotch, NOTE FOUND OUT IT DOES NOT WORK VERY WELL IN WARM WEATHER, it got to 88 degrees here and it was too spongy, OH Well, I TRIED IT, I tape the body to elevator with a 1/4" gap, then press the tape together at the middle/seam, that makes for a nice tight hinge, thats very flexable, I also I cut a 6" lenght of 3/8" X 3/8" bass wood to the front body for the motor mount, I left it sticking out about 1" so I can slide a stick motor mount to it, and I added a piece of carbon rod to the rear of the rudder to give it some strength, I need to cut the rod to length after the Epoxy dries, in 5 mins 
here are a few more pics, Take care, Chellie
I got a little more done, It will be a ARF before I go to bed tonight or this morning, here is what was done so far, I taped the elevators on to the body, I used a New Tape from Scotch, NOTE FOUND OUT IT DOES NOT WORK VERY WELL IN WARM WEATHER, it got to 88 degrees here and it was too spongy, OH Well, I TRIED IT, I tape the body to elevator with a 1/4" gap, then press the tape together at the middle/seam, that makes for a nice tight hinge, thats very flexable, I also I cut a 6" lenght of 3/8" X 3/8" bass wood to the front body for the motor mount, I left it sticking out about 1" so I can slide a stick motor mount to it, and I added a piece of carbon rod to the rear of the rudder to give it some strength, I need to cut the rod to length after the Epoxy dries, in 5 mins here are a few more pics, Take care, Chellie
05-17-2011, 09:43 PM
#866
Ya' need to use mo rudda!
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Hi Computerman
The elevons are done with the age old "that looks about right" gap......LOL, as long as there is enough gap to make contact with both sides of tape (top and bottom, tape touching right along the seam) you'll be good to go. There are plenty other more complicated ways to go about hinging these controls but none as easy and strong.
Good luck
--Ray
The elevons are done with the age old "that looks about right" gap......LOL, as long as there is enough gap to make contact with both sides of tape (top and bottom, tape touching right along the seam) you'll be good to go. There are plenty other more complicated ways to go about hinging these controls but none as easy and strong.
Good luck
--Ray
05-17-2011, 10:00 PM
#869
Ya' need to use mo rudda!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chino, Calif. aka Dairyland
Posts: 1,380
Not quite sure whatcha mean?.....if you you are asking where to end the lower part of the vert stab then just cut it off where the fuse plate ends, no need to extend it back into the elevons.
05-17-2011, 10:22 PM
#870
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE
Hi Everyone Making the bottom skid, from foam, with foam board, you have to sand the paper with rough sand paper to take off the shine on the paper, so when you soak it, in the bath tub like i do, the water will get into the paper quicker, and it will peel off, the paper adds a lot of weight, so its better to remove it, the foam is soaking right now, so its time for a glass of wine ok lets make it a tall glass of wine Chellie
Making the bottom skid, from foam, with foam board, you have to sand the paper with rough sand paper to take off the shine on the paper, so when you soak it, in the bath tub like i do, the water will get into the paper quicker, and it will peel off, the paper adds a lot of weight, so its better to remove it, the foam is soaking right now, so its time for a glass of wine ok lets make it a tall glass of wine ChellieWhen you soak in the water what temperature do you use (hot or cold or warm)?
05-18-2011, 03:33 AM
#874
Ya' need to use mo rudda!
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Give it at least 20min, done right the paper may even float off the foam with little effort. The foam won't suck up the water so leaving it in there for a bit longer will only do you good.
After the paper is gone take a good look at the bare foam since a lot of times you'll see/feel a little of the adhesive still sitting on the foam.....just roll it off with your fingers while it's still wet You'll be amazed what that paper weighs compared to the bare foam!
After the paper is gone take a good look at the bare foam since a lot of times you'll see/feel a little of the adhesive still sitting on the foam.....just roll it off with your fingers while it's still wet
You'll be amazed what that paper weighs compared to the bare foam!
05-18-2011, 04:27 AM
#875
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Posts: 66
Originally Posted by Wrench66
Give it at least 20min, done right the paper may even float off the foam with little effort. The foam won't suck up the water so leaving it in there for a bit longer will only do you good.
After the paper is gone take a good look at the bare foam since a lot of times you'll see/feel a little of the adhesive still sitting on the foam.....just roll it off with your fingers while it's still wet You'll be amazed what that paper weighs compared to the bare foam!
After the paper is gone take a good look at the bare foam since a lot of times you'll see/feel a little of the adhesive still sitting on the foam.....just roll it off with your fingers while it's still wet
You'll be amazed what that paper weighs compared to the bare foam!
